LIBRARY OF
KNOX COLLEGE
FINLEYCOLLECTIONONTHE
HISTORYANDROMANCE- OF
§g • THE -NORTHWEST ■ 9^
PRESENTED BY
EDWARD • CALDWELL
Digitized by tiie Internet Arciiive
in 2011 witii funding from
CARLI: Consortium of Academic and Researcii Libraries in
littp://www.arcliive.org/details/geograpliicalsketOOindana
' • »^> ^- 4
\
-" '■ ,• OK THE
WESTERN COUNTRY:
SESIGKES FOB
B£nT8 THB HESOT.T OF EXTENSITE
RESEARCHES AND REMARKS.
TO -WmCH IS ADDED,
A
SUMMARY OF ALL THE MOST INTERESTING MATTERS
ON THE SUBJECT,
IKCIiITDINfi
A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE UNSOLD
PUBLIC LANDS,
eOLLECTED FROM A VARIETY OF AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
Also,
A LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL ROADS.
BY E. DANA.
CINCINNATI:
Looker, Reynolds & Co. Printers.
1819.*
District of Ohio, ss.
Be it HEjrEittBERED, That on the twenty-first day of August, m the
year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and nineteen, and in the
forty-foui-th j'ear of American Independence, E. Dana, of said District^
hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he
claims as autlior and proprietor, in the w ca-ds following, to wit :
" Geogi'aphical Sketches on the Western Countiy : designed for
Emigrants arid Settlers : being the result of extensive researches
and remai'ks. To which is added, a suraraaiy of all the most
interesting matters on the subject, including a pai-tieulai- desci'ip-
tion of the unsold public lands, collected from a variety of authen-
tic soui'ces. Also, a list of the principal roads. By E. Dana."
In conformity to an act of the Congress of tlie United States of Ame-
rica, entitled " An act foi- the encoui-agement of learning, by securing
tlie copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of
such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act
entitled " An act supplenaentary to the act entitled ' An act for the en-
couragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
books, to the authors and proprietoi-s of such copies, dui-ing the times
therein mentioned,' and extending the benefit thereof to the arts of de-
signing, engraving and etching historical and other pi-ints."
*..«B«^j._ Harvey d. evans,
Clerk of tlus District of Qltio,
,;^fiL' liter
TO THE READER.
After spending six years, mostly among the
natives, in the regions bordering upon the great
western Lakes, the Author was employed by
more than 1300 people, desirous of removing to
the west, to select and purchase for them, on an
extended credit, from the United States, a large
tract of land, in one body, convenient for perma-
nent settlements.' In performing this service, two
years were spent laboriously in exploring the
western country. In behalf' of his constituents
he at length preferred a petition to Congi'ess, in
December, 1817, for a grant ; but his application
proved unsuccessful.
The knowledge acquired from his travels, per-
sonal observations, critical remarks and enquiries,
lie, by the advice of his friends, has been induced
to lay before the public. But as (for tlie want of
an early education) the Author deemed himself
incompetent to present his communications in
language proper for the public eye, the various
materials by him collected, at his request, have
been prepared for the press by Reuben Kidder,
Counsellor at Law; whose acquaintance with
the western countiy, from fom* years residence,
has enabled him to collect a fund of useM in-
formation, which he has diffused through the
work.
zc
^7/
..^:^^%^
i^ IV PREFACE.
>
\ In pursuing our labors, we have not last siglit
of our main design, which was, useful instiuc-
tion to emigrants and settlers ; connecting a ge-
neral view of the whole ground, with a more par-
ticular description of the unsold public lands.
We have incorporated our own personal ob-
servations and remarks on the country, with the
most important information that could be obtain-
ed from the public commissioners for purchasing
of the Indians ; from divers officers stationed in
the west during the late war ; from public sur-
veyors ; respectable, well informed Indian tia-
dei-s, travellers and hunters ; and from the most
interesting and authentic publications extant.
The subject we treat of, embracing a descrip-
tion of the whole western country, is so exten-
sive and multifarious, that it was not possible to
comprehend the minute details of every part, in
one volume. But we have endeavored to omit
nothing interesting or useful, that could enable
an enquirer to form correct general vicAvs of the
whole, while he acquired more particular infor-
mation respecting all the public lands most va-
luable for cultivation and the objects of commerce.
Such as the work is, though we presume not
to pronounce it so complete as it might have been
rendered, had it been committed to abler hands,
we feel confident, that, as it respects the design
we had in view, so much useful information can
not be found compressed into so small a compass,
on the same subject
THE AUTHOR.
TlSlE^lilSVLlXA^X llIi3Via^l§.S.
Contest between foreign powers for possession. General
views. Steam boat navigation. J^atural resources
of the west. Abundant means of national prosperity.
Source of support for a dense population. General
boundaries. Face of the country. Hills and moun-
tains. Principal rivers. Projected canals. Fertility
of soil. J\*ative productions. Agricultural remarks,
Groicth of timber. Stones, on and near the surface.
Minerals. Antiquities. JSTatural curiosities. Wild
animals and fowls. Fish. Indian tribes. Boundary
between the free and slave states. Cession of the
Floridas. First settlement of the tvestern country.
Separation of the eastern from the Atlantic states.
The discovery of the new world, by Christopher Co-
lumbus, while the human mind had scarcely awoke from
the ignorant and superstitious slumbers of the daik ages,
opened to the nations of Europe a new and important
theatre of action.
The abundance of the precious metals in the south,
tempted the avarice of the Spaniards, who barbarously
xterminated the innocent natives, and seized upon their
possessions, under pretext of right by conquest.
North America was not explored by the Spaniards,
English, or French, until a much later peiiod. A contest
>etween these nations, for the jurisdiction of this then
«rildernes8 territory, subsisted with but little intermis-
AS
6 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
sion for more than one hundred and fifty years. During
nearly the half of this period, they were exhausting theii*
blood and treasure, by acts of national hostilities by sea
and land. Thus zealous were those foreign combatants
in asserting x-ights which belonged to neither. At length
the French, compelled by superior force, resigned to the
English their claims to the country westward of the
Mississippi. The English, until after they had acquued
this territory, had confined their trade and colonization
to the Atlantic provinces. Indeed, so limited was their
knowledge of this country, that at the treaty of 1783,
which terminated the revolutionary war, they deemed it
of no considerable importance. From the earliest disco-
very, the possession of the country had been secured to
a politic enemy, as well by forts and garrisons, wliich in
a manner surrounded the country, as by the aptitude of
French manners to gain the friendship ofi the natives. —
Thus deprived of the means to obtain correct information,
the calculating policy of the English had never truly es-
timated the great extent of territory — the general fer-
tility of the soil — the extensiveness, and facility of navi-
gating the numerous streams that intersect the country —
and the charming temperature of climate ; — t^ualities
which confer so important and permanent a value on
this portion of the United States.
It is worthy of remark, that the section of country
west of the AUeganies, till of late the sole residence of
the untutored savage, and the haunt of wild beasts, now
presents to the speculation of the political philosoplier,
an interesting subject for contemplation. It possesses
the natural means of subsisting a more dense and nume-
rous population, than the one half of modern Europe.-—
Tlie country is spacious, extending from the Atlantic to
f
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 7
the Pacific ocean. The climate, though generally tem-
perate, is so diverse in the several parts, as to be capable
of furnishing the conveniences, indeed most of the luxu-
ries, of all other countries. The soil, though greatly va-
rying in so M'ide a range, is generally deep, strong and
durable. In many parts of the country, such is the fer-
tility, that the strength of the soil seems inexhaustible by
culture, without manuring. Tlie intelligent, patriotic
statesman, surveys with pleasant and curious emotions,
the natural facility of transporting native produce and
foreign articles of necessity on great rivers, intersecting
a vast inland country in divers directions, navigable for
vessels of large burden for thousands of miles.
By the power of steam, which now propels more tlian
one hundred large vessels on the western waters, naviga-
tion on rivers is rendered more secure and expeditious,
than on the open sea, in the ordinary way. Thus lias
tlie Aveswrn farmer, by the instrumentality of steam boats
on navigable waters, hundreds of iniles from the ocean,
daily opportunities of exchanging, at his own door, the
produce of his rural labors for such foreign articles as
habit has made convenient or desirable. So generally is
almost every section of the western country intersected
by navigable rivers, running to opposite points from
nearly the same sources, in a manner interlocking, or
separated only by narrow portages, pouring their waters
noi-thwardly into a sheet of fresh water lakes of more
than two thousand miles in extent, and eastwardly into
the Atlantic ocean — that the whole territory may be
aptly resembled to a cluster of islands, or rather to a
spacious champaign, excavated in all parts by the forma-
tion of navigable canals, intersecting each other in every
direction.
8 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
What a source of national thrift may be anticipated
by the enlightened, contemplative patiiot, from a country
so extensive, still fresh, as it were, from the hand of na-
ture, abounding in means not only to support a dense
population at home, but also to supply all the demands
of foreign markets, both witli provisions, and the ra^v
materials for manufactures I What motives to stimulate
to agricultural and commercial industry I What natural
resources of subsisting millions of human beings ! But,
as it might be thought more prudent, peihaps, to shroud
a little tliis picture of national strength and felicity,
wliich a lore of country delights to view in prospective,
we waive the subject, lest we may seem romantic or
visionary.
The western states are situated in that happy medium
of climate, between extreme heat and cold, ^vllere a tem-
perature of the human constitution, most favorable to
health, may be preserved ; and the means of sustaining
life, from the cultivation of the soil, most easily obtained.
It would seem that man, thus secured from the annoy-
ance of those sensations which are produced by nortliern
blasts, and scorching suns, possessed here the most cer-
tain means of perfecting his nature ; and that the ener-
gies of his mind, when aroused to action, and dii'ected
by the most proper natural and moral influence, might
gain the highest point of maturity of which his mental
faculties are susceptible. In Greece and Rome, more
than two thousand years ago, the vigor and ingenuity of
the human intellect, from natural and moral causes, not
unlike those which now operate on the American citizens
of the western states, were displayed in a manner wliich
excited the wonder and admiration of the world. The
impulse which civil freedom imparted to those Rncieot
PWI^IMINARY REMARKS, 9
republicans, inspired tliem with lofty notions of liberty
arid iadepiendence, and inclined them to bold and arduous
undertakings. The human mind, thus put in motion by
4he influence of causes most favorable to mental exer-
tions, the whole nation was dii-ected, by multifarious
pursuits, in those arts which subserve and adorn human
life ; and in those sciences which shed liglit and know-
ledge on the moral and natural world. Such has been
the progress of human knowledge, and the prosperous
state of nations, in ancient i-epublics, when fostered by
the freedom of enquiry, and other propitious causes. .
So gi*eat an influence has civil government in shaping
the mental features of a communit)', it is not strange
that the wisdom of illustrious statesmen and lawgivers,
should have caused them to have been classed among the
gods. It is wonderful, that a science so intimately con-
nected with the welfare of man, as that of civil govern-
ment, should, amidst the extraordinary progress of gene-
ral science, have been so imperfectly understood, till so
late a period as the latter part of the eighteenth century.
But it seems to have been reserved for the sages of the
American revolution, successfully to embody into a wise,
practical system of free government, an assemblage of
maxims and principles, that had remained disjointed and
scattered through works on civil polity, tliat had been
accumulating from the researches and remarks of men
who speculated on the science of government, for ages.
The citizens of the eastern states, although two cen-
turies have elapsed since their first settlement, can
hardly be considered as having formed a uniform na-
tional character. Their progenitors were emigrants from
different parts of Europe— English, Scotch, French, High
and Low Dutch. Having settled" themselves down in a
10 PRELimmARY REMARKS.
kind of clans, the manners and customs of the motlier
country have been but partially obliterated in their de-
scendants, by the collision of a social intwcourse. In
tiiis western country, the settlers being more promiscu-
ously located, will form an identity of opinions, of man-
ners and customs. Each emigrant retaining and giving
up a part of what is peculiar to himself, a new character
will be produced from the various materials constituting
the compound, which may with propriety be denominated
national. Hence will eventually be formed a more dis-
tinguishable nationality of character. From such a com-
bination of characteristic peculiarities, a selection of the
best modes of pursuing the useful arts, and of those prac-
tical inventions that subserve the grand purposes of sus-
taining and adorning human life, will naturally follow.
By such efficient means of exciting laudable curiosity,
and of imparting a fresh impulse to enterprising industry,
most skilfully bestowed on useful mechanical labors ; on
multiplying the conveniences of good living ; "on develop-
ing the resources of a new country ; and on exploring
the latent recesses of virgin nature ; — may we not con-
fidently hope, that the arts which abridge manual labor
will be improved^that the stock of useful knoVledge
will be increased — and that the condition of man will
generally be ameliorated ?
In these western states, nature has offered to the skil-
ful industry of man abundant resources for food and rai-
ment ; and she has also supplied him amply with tlie
means of national defence against foreign .aggression. —
The soil and the climate combine to provide him, by a
moderate portion of labor, the various materials that con-
stitute a palatable and nourishing diet, to a degree that
might be considered luxui'ious. Flax, hemp and cotton
ife;:^.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 11
plants, shoot \xp almost spotaneously from the soil ; the
mulberry of the forest feeds the silk worm ; and the spa-
cious grazing lands, the sheep. Thus may the raw ma-
terials, with little care and toil, be furnished, not only to
protect, but to adorn the human hodj. The numerous
beds of iron ore, the lead mines, and the extensive salt
petre caves, hold out to the ci+izeus thf: natural means
of securing the independence and of defending tlie liber-
ties of their country. _
The liberal policy of the general government has pro-
vided funds, from the sale oi public lands, to facilitate
a communication from the seaboard, through the interior
of eacli new state j and have already, in pursuance of
their design, nearly completed a public highway, from
the seat of the national governmeat, as far as t\\e Oliio.
This great national work, of dig? ng down tiie higli rug-
ged hills, and filling up the vallies, while it remains a
proud monument to after ages of the wise policy, bold
design, and skilful achievement of the 4.merican people,
will strengthen the bond of union which connects the
eastern with the western states.
Our national council have not been unmindful of the
most efficacious means of perpetuating our civil rights-
having provided a permanent fund for the general edu-
cation of youth, by granting to the inhabitants of each
township, consisting of six miles square, the one-thirty-
sixth part, that is 640 acres. And they have also ex-
tended the effect of their patriotic motives to the rising
generation, by gi-anting to the people of each new state
two entire townships, that is 45,680 acres, for the pur-
pose of endowing public seminaries of learning with
competent funds for instruction.
IS PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
With such abundant means provided by nature for the
wants of the body, and by the government for the wants
of the mind, it would seem that nothing was lacking to
render the citizens of these states as wise and happy, as
human society, taken in mas*, are susceptible of becom-
ing, but a want of duty to themselves.
Virtuous propensities, correct principles, intelligent
understandings, and skilful industry, are the substantial
pillars on which free republics rest. Such institutions,
v;ithout them, are mere hay Jind stubble. Public opinion
is a physical power, that like a magic charm directs and
shapes to its purpose free civil governments ; the pro-
ceedings of which will be marked by wisdom or folly,
liberty or oppression, according as the one or the otlier
preponderates in the great body politic, whose public
functionaries ordain the laws. Nothing is more clear,
than that tlie stability and permanency of a free state,
depend on the patriotic intelligence of the people wlio
compose it. And while the minds of such a people are
strongly and generally imbued with enlightened and cor-
rect principles, the policy by which tliey are governed
can neither be weak, nor wicked, nor can it come to an
end.
It does not comport with our design, to give complete
geographical or geological descriptions of the extensive
tract of country concerning which we treat. Such a work
would require the uninterruj>ted researches of a long
life, and would fill the pages of many a folio volume.—
Our purpose has been, to give mere sketches, that would
present, in a birdseye view, the great western country t»
emigrants, desirous of seeking a permanent residence,
where they can pleasantly locate themselves, and build
up their fortunes. By such a general survey, in miniature,
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 13
a purcTiaser will be enabled to select more understand-
ingly, a spot for a new home, on the unsold public lands ;
as a correct and particular description of which, as the
best sources of information could aftbrd, has been our
main design*
That extensive tract of territory, over wiiich the Uni-
ted States now claim jurisdiction, is divided into two
distinct portions, by a great natural boundary. The
western portion is separated from the eastern, by the long
range of high lands, denominated the Allegani^s, con-
sisting of an assemblage of mountains, generally conti-
nuous, but occasionally so interrupted, branched out, and
depressed, by chasms and valleys, as to permit large tri-
butary streams to flow through in opposite directions, to-
wards the Atlantic ocean, and the waters of the Missis-
sippi. These mountains extend from Angelica, in the
western part of the state of New York, southwardly, to
Mobile bay, in the state of Alabama.
The tract we assume to describe, is, according to the
late British treaty, bounded on the north by a long sheet
of lake waters, to and through the Lake of the Woods,
and from thence as far north as latitude 49° — thence west
over the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific ocean — thence,
according to the late Spanish treaty, on the west by
tlie waters of the Pacific to north latitude 42° — from
thence due east to the source of the Arkansaw — thence
on the south bank thereof to west longitude 100°
thence due south to the Red river — thence on the south
bank of that river southeastwardly to the northwest limit
of the state of Louisiana-^thence southwardly on the
west line thereof to the Sabine river--thence on the west
bank thereof to the Gulf of Mexico — thence to a point
about south of the most southwestwardly Allegany ridge
— thence northwardly to said ridge.
B
14 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
In the region lying about 300 miles west of the Mis-
souri, nature seems to have formed a boundary that will
fix limits to the permanent habitation of man. Here
most of that great expanse of country, spreading out to
the Pacific ocean, is a wild waste, in a manner devoid of
wood and water, consisting of spacious prairies, hills and
mountains, productive only of scanty vegetation, except
on the margin of water courses. Lakes or running
streams of pure water are rarely to be found — and al-
though some long rivers flow through this immense de-
sert in the rainy seasons, they are generally so languid
and dried up in the summer months, as. to afford but oc-
casional means of slaking the thirst of the disconsolate
traveller. It is however perhaps fortunate, as it respects
the long duration of the American republic, so extensive
in territor}'^, that nature has opposed a barrier other than
the ocean, on the west, to the migration of emigrants and
the expansion of population.
The most valuable portion of the western lands be-
longing to the United States, lies between 29° and 42°
north latitude, being nearly one thousand miles in extent
from lake Michigan on the north, to the Gulf of Mexico.
The above mentioned boundaries, with the exception of
Michigan and the northwestern territory, includes per-
haps nearly all the public lands, which will be considered
a subject of enquiry for permanent settlements during
the present century. -
In giving a general description of the western country,
it has been thought expedient to deviate from the beaten
track of geographers, by presenting a view of the gi-eat
outlines which distinguish the natural face of the coun-.
try. Accordingly, disregarding the artificial divisions by
states and territories, we shall give under one head the
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 15
pi-incipal ranges of mountains and hills, whicli constitute
the sources of the head waters of the great rivers. After
which we sliall describe the principal rivers, and give di-
vers other sketches of the natural history of the country.
Of the High Lands which give source to the streams
running in opposite directions, that feed the great rivers,
and constitute the prominent features on the face of the
country, the Allegany on the east, and the Rocky and
Chippewan mountains on the west, are the principal.
The Rocky Mountains range from the frozen re-
gions of the north, nearly in a south direction towards the
Andes, of which they may be considered a conti'nuation,
and to whicli they are supposed in extent and magnitude
to be little inferior. They form the great natural boun-
dary, which separates the head, waters that fall into the
Pacific ocean from those that flow into the Mississippi
valley. The highest peak, which is immensely elevated,
is in north latitude 41° and is thought to be the table
land of North America. From this point many of the
greatest rivers take their rise ; among which is the Cole-
rado of Calafornia, the Rio del Norte, the Arkansaw,
the La Platte and the Yellow rivers.
A few degrees east of the Rocky Mountains is the
Chippewan Range of mountains, which originate near
the arctic circle, and extending in a direction nearly
parallel to the coast of the Pacific ocean, is continued on
and spreads into high table lands in the province of
Mexico.
What is denominated the Masserne Range is that
part of the Chippewan mountains which lies between
the Arkansaw and Red rivers, near to, and parallel with
the latter, extending a southwestwardly course from
about north latitude 39° to 34° — from thence winding its
16 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
course northeastwardly a few miles, it is divided into
two branches: the left is continued over and from the
Arkansaw northwardly to the head waters of the Osage ;
and the right, eastvvardly on the left bank of the Arkan-
saw to near its mouth. Tliis mountain is supposed to
be rich in minerals, although no scientific research has
yet been made. The warm springs on the Washita are
situated on the spurs of this ridge.
There is a long chain of hills, which generally sepa-
rate the Meters of the Missouri from those of the Arkan-
saw and Mississippi. Tlie hills in the White river coun-
try, and those west of the Mississippi towards the head
of the St. Francis and the Maramack, so abundant in
minerals, may be considered the dependencies of the
Black mountains, between the upper part of the Washita
and the Arkansaw; between the upper part of which
rivers are diverse, high, rugged hills.
A ridge of hills leaves the Mississippi about twenty
miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and, extending south-
west, divides the waters that flow south into the St. Fran-
cis and White rivers, from those, whose course is direct-
ed northeast of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. —
This extensive range of hills divide's the Missoui'i coun-
try into two distinct natural portions.
A range of high lands commences above the junction
of the Wabash with the Ohio, which, extending in a
nortlieast direction, through Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylva-
nia and New York, forms the source of streams, which
flow into the Canadian lakes, and those which discharge
their waters into the Ohio. The whole of this ridge is
but moderately elevated, being chiefly composed of lime
and schistous sand stone, witiiout any valuable minerals,
except iron and coal.
.■««(3hiiL.'<'
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 17
A range of hills leaves the northwestern parts of Geor-
gia, and folIowiKg a course nearly similar to that of Ten-
nessee river, divides the waters of that stream from
those of the Mobile. This ridge, though not very high,
is clothed with a thick forest, and forms a distinguisha-
ble boundary between the climates, as well as the waters
that feed the large rivers. Nearly upon the line of
Georgia and Alabama, this ridge is formed into two
branches : one winding parallel to the Tennessee, crosses
the Ohio a short distance below the former river ; the
second branch puts out southwestwardly, extending near
the junction of the Coosa with the Tallapoosa.
A branch of the Allegany, intersecting Georgia nearly
southwestwardly, extending between the Chatahoochee
and Mobile rivers, terminates in the bluffs of Mobile bay,
near the town of Blakely.
■ From the northeast of Mississippi state, a ridge puts
out from the one last described, as dividing the Tennessee
and Mobile rivers, pursuing a south course, crosses two
degrees of latitude, dividing the waters of the Tombigbee
from those of the Yazoo and Big Black rivers — from
thence, turning eastwardly, separates the streams flow-
ing into the Pascagoula, and is terminatea by the high
bank on which Mobile town is built.
There is in the basin of the Mobile still another dis-
tinctive ridge, lying between the waters of the Cahaba
and those of the Black "Warrior, which descends to the
southward, and forms the apex of the peninsula between
the Tombigbee and Alabama, merging in the low lands
near the junction of those rivers.
Almost on north latitude 33°, and near the sources
of the Big Black, Pearl and Pascagoula rivers, the chain
of hills west of the Tombigbee sends forth two projec-
-ig'WMtrrii I J
18 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
tions ; one winds southwardly, dividing tlie waters of
the Pearl and Pascagoula, gradually depressing as it ap-
proaches the sea coast, and ends in a high bank near the
bay of St. Louis. The second pursues a southeast
course, separates the tributary streams to the Missis-
sippi, Maurepas, Ponchartrain and Borgne, and termi-
Jiates abruptly in high hills, called Loftus Heights, on
the east bank of the Mississippi, about eighteen miles
above Red river.
There are other hills, of more or less elevation, well
known, dividing the minor waters ; but those above des-
cribed are all the principal high lands of note, that liave
been properly explored, in this extensive western region.
PRINCIPAL RIVERS.
Red River, or Nachitoches, rises near Santa Fee, in
north latitude 37° 30', and 29° west longitude, runs
nearly parallel to the Arkansaw, and after meandering
about 1500 miles, joins the Mississippi in latitude 30°.
The passage of this river, for a considerable extent, is
through a valley about sixteen miles wide — is navi-
gable 6 or 800 miles above the Rapiede, which is two
miles in length, where is the first obstruction, 135 miles
up, consisting of a rock of the hardness of pipe clay, that
may be passed over in boats, when the river is not low,
or easily removed in a dry season. The water is tinged
■with red, and a little brackish.
The Arkansaw rises in the Rocky Mountains, lati-
tude 42°, unites with the Mississippi in latitude 31° 40'
: — receives no considerable streams within 800 miles
from its mouth— is navigable 1980, and meanders 2] 70
miles ; communicates with White river by a bayou ; its
banks, in high water, extensively flooded many mile*
above the mouth.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 19
The Missouri rises ia the Rocky Mountains, in north
latitude 43° 31', west longitude 34° 4o', has three prin-
cipal head branches, navigable for some distance, called
^Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin. From its junction
with the Mississippi to the Great Falls, being 2575 miles,
it is navigable without interiniption ; and from thence to
the Jefferson, the largest branch, is navigable 521 miles,
which is distant from its confluence with the Mississippi
3096 miles, and from thence to the Gulf 1345 miles,
being in tlie whole 4491 miles : a greater extent of na-
vigable waters than is to be found on any other tributary
stream upon the globe. The cataracts of the Missouri
are second only to those of Niagara, the most stupen-
dous in the world— the descent in the former being
about 362 feet in 18 miles. The first great pitch is 98
feet ; second, 19 ; third, 47 ; and fourth, 26 feet. Here
the width is about 350 yards.
The Mississippi river rises in latitude 47° 47' from
Turtle lake, from thence to the falls of St. Anthony is
about 600 miles, latitude 44°. Its junction with the
Missouri is in latitude 88° 50'. It flows into the Gulf
of Mexico through several mouths, of which the princi-
pal is the Balize. This river by overflowing in the
spring freshets, lays the country for many miles in extent
under water — is from one to two miles in width, and of a
great depth. Boats of 40 tons burden can ascend to tha
falls of St. Anthony. Ships seldom proceed further up
than Natchez. The application of steam to the propel-
ling of boats has furnished peculiar facilities to the navi-
gation of this river, on which and its tributary streams
are now (1819) driven by that power, nearly one hundred
steam boats, from 40 to 500 tons burden. The length
ef the Mississippi exceeds 3000 miles ; it extends above
so PRELIMIXARY REMAliKS.
its junction with the Missouri, more than 1600 miles. —
The latter, both in- magnitude and length, exceeding the
former, may be considered the principal ; its navigable
waters extending above its confluence with the Missis-
sippi, according to Lems and Clark, for S096 miles ; its
whole meanderings which are navigable to tlie Mexican
Gulf, being 4491 miles.
. The Illinois deiives its soni'ce from the confluence
of the Theakiki and Plein, in the northwest of Indiana.
Pursuing generally a northwest course, it is dischar-
ged into the Mississippi 21 miles above the Missouri,
Avhere its width is 420 yards. Its current is gentle and
smooth, unixnpeded by falls or rapids, and navigable for
400 miles ; much of its banks are overflowed m higli
waters. Its northern branch^ the Plein, interlocks with
tlie Chicago, which flows into lake Michigan.
The Ohio proceeds from the junction of the Allegany
with the Monongahala at Pittsburgh. After a west-
southwest course of 949 miles, it discharges into the
Mississippi. It varies in breadth from 400 to 1400 yards.
At Cincinnati it is 534 yards, which being near its cen-
tre, may be regarded as its mean breadth. Its current
is gentle and smooth, unbroken by rapids or falls, ex-
cept at Louisville. It yields to but few streams in
point of convenience for inland navigation ; as the ope-
ration of canalling and locking the falls has lately been
commenced, and is likely to be successfully prosecuted.
The height of the fall is 22§ feet ; the extent of the de-
clivity two miles. The greatest extremes of variation in
the altitude of the surface of the river is 60 feet; when
lowest, is ford able in divers places above Louisville.
The Wabash rises near the head waters of the rivers
St. Joseph and the Maumee, and running in a soutli;j»
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 21
westwardly direction, empties into the Ohio, 30 miles
above the Cumberlaflil. It is upwards of 500 miles long,
400 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for keel
boats about 400 miles to Ouiatan, an ancient French vil-
lage. From thence by small craft, to a portage of eight
miles in extent, to a south branch, which forms a commu-
nication with the Maumee, which flows into Lake Erie.
Above. Vincennes the Wabash is gentle, between that and
White river is an obstruction called the Great, Rapids,
which renders it unusually 'arduous to navigate with
boats, for the distapce-of more than a mile.
The Great Miami is about 130 yards wide for 40
miles up ; its head waters between latitude 40* and 41°,
interlock with the Masasinaway, a branch of the W^a-
bash ; the Auglaize aiid St. Mary, branches of the Mau-
mee ; and the Scioto. It has generally a rapid current,
but destitute of considerable falls ; flows through a vdde
fertile valley, which it partly floods in high waters. —
At Dayton, about 75 miles from the moutli, the Miami
unites with the Madriver on the east. From this place,
in the high waters, flats freighting tlu'ee or four hundred
barrels, pass safely into the Ohio. But from the rapidity
of the current, sand bars and mill dams, ascending this
stream with boats is so difficult, it is rarely attempted.
The Cumberland proceeds from Cumberland moun-
tains, and interlocks with the head waters of Clinch and
Kentucky rivezs — rises in the southeast part of the state
of Kentucky, through which it flows westwardly more
than 200 miles, enters the state of Tennessee, and mean-
dering 120 miles, reaches Nashville, nearly in latitude
35° — ^from thence flqjving northwest 120 miles, when it
joins the Ohio.
The Tennessee is one of the largest rivers in the
western country, and is navigable for large boats mor*
/:
/.
22 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
than 1000 miles. It rises in the northeast part of the
state, and traverses the whole width of East Tennessee
in a southwest direction, and entering the northeast an-
gle of tlie state of Alabama, the whole width of wliich it
crosses, and turning just at the northwest angle of Ala-
bama, it pursues a north direction nearly in a direct line
with the eastern boundary of that state, across the widtli
of Tennessee and part of Kentucky, to the river Ohio.
The Tombigbe? rises within a few miles of the Mus-
cle shoals, flows southwardly near the line between the
states of Mississippi and Alabama-r— jpins the Alabama 45
miles above Mobile bay, and 75 above the Gulf of Mexi-
co, to form the river Mobile. It is navigable for large
vessels to Fort Stoddert, and at some seasons to St. Ste-
phens. Being about 450 miles long, and navigable for
boats the greater part of its course.
The Alabama gives name to the state so called. It
is formed by the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa,
and flowing south-southwest, unites wdth the Tombigbee
45 mil^ above Mobile bay, to form the river Mobile. —
From the junction to Fort Claiborne, 60 miles, it is navi-
gable at all seasons for vessels drav/ing gix feet of water.
From Fort Claiborne to the mouth of the Cahaba, about
150 miles, the river has four or five feet of water, from
•tlie mouth of the Cahaba to the junction of the Coosa
and Tallapoosa, the navigation generally continues good,
the river affording three feet of water in, the shallowest
places. This river is subject to great variation in rising
and falling.
West of the Mississippi we have omitted rivers more
considerable, than several describe^ because in that new
and extensive region, the artificial boundaries of states
and territories have not yet been established to divide the
{)rincipal streams. -
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 2'3
Projected Canals, which are intended to unite in a
water communication, the great western lakes to the
streams falling into, the Mississippi, have long occupied
the attention of curious travellers and enterprising tra-
ders. • Of this description it is said there are six, that
might open a passage for boats from lakes Erie and
Michigan to the Mississippi. One near Presque Isle,
where the navigation of French Creek, a brancli of the
Allegany, approaches within 10 or 12 miles of the lake.
Of the practicability of excavating a canal at this portage,
we have not distinct information. Another is between a
branch of the Muskingum, called Tuscarawa, and the
Cuyahoga, a stream which joins Lake Erie at Cleveland.
This portage does not exceed 10 or 12 miles, at which
place the prospect of procuring a water communication
between the streams induced Congress to appropriate
100,000 acres of public lands to effect this project ; which
public bounty has not yet been called into action. A
third proposed canal is to unite the waters of the Mau-
mee with the Big Miami^ by connecting Loramies Creek,
one of the chief navigable streams of the latter, either
with the St. Mary or the Auglaize, both streams of the
Maumee. The latter is the most direct, and affords the
most water ; but its current is the most i-apid, and its
channel jnore stony and less secure than the former.—
The most southern points of navigation on these streams
are distant about 20 miles, and approach within from 10
to 18 miles to navigation on the Loramies. This space
is nearly level, the surface of which is composed of loam
and clay. It yet remains uncertain, whether the St. Ma-
ry or the Auglaize deserves the preference of being con-
nected with a canal, or if dug, whether that could be fed
with sufficient water. Eight miles above Fort Wayne, a
24 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
fourth water passage niij^ht be opened between the head
waters of the Wabash and the St. ISIary ; where the in-
termediate space is so low and lev&l, that loaded boats
in high water pass from the Wabash to the Lake with fa-
cility — And so promising are the appearances for open-
ing a canal here at a small expence, that Congress have
made a provision to effect it in like manner as above
mentioned, by appropriating 100,000 acres of land. A
fifth canal has been projected between thePlein, a stream
of the Illinois, and the Chicago, flowing into the Lake
Michigan ; the waters of these two streams are so nearly
on the same horizontal level, that during freshets boats
can conveniently pass from the one to the other — A like
provision as above mentioned is made by Congress to
open a water passage at this place. A very particular
report has been lately made by commissioners to the
Secretary at War, stating the practicability of opening a
canal here, at a moderate expence. A sixth canal is
projected to connect the Ouisconsing, a stream of the
Slississippi, with Fox River flo\ving into Green Bay, an
arm of Lake Michigan. _,
Soil, Vegetable Productions, Fruit and Forest
Trees, and Remarks on Agriculture. — The prevail-
ing qualities of the soil in the west, are, a decomposition
of limestone and calcareous eartlis, intermixed with a
large portion of vegetable loam. It has a good depth,
and is strong and durable. To the north of S5° north
latitude, which includes the states of Ohio, Indiana, Il-
linois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and the Missouri territory,
are produced in abundance, wheat, rye, barley, oats,
maize, tobacco, culinary vegetables, apples, pears, peach-
es, plumbs and cherries ; hemp, flaj^ and some cotton —
The latter, however, being subject to late vernal and
pbeliminahy remarks. S5
€arly autumnal frosts, is not much cultivated above lati-
tude 35°, except in Tennessee. Between this latitude
arid the Gulf coast, cotton and sugar cane crops princi-
pally engross the attention of the farmer. Cotton, above
55°, and sugar cane, above 30°, are precarious crops.-—
The latter is the most lucrative crop of any which can
be TMsed in the United States ; and to the sugar, the cot-
ton crop is next in value. It is a remarkable coinci-
dence, that sugar cane commences on the line of climate
where snow ceases. Indigo and rice have been found to
flourish well here, but they have latterly been neglected
for the more profitable crops of cotton and sugar, which
are the present staples of this portion of the country.
, Most of the vegetable productions, however, of the up-
per region, floiU"ish sout^of 35°. In addition to the fruits
produced above that.latitude, grow below it the fig, pome-
granate and orange. And it has been ascertained, that
the olive and the wine grape would also flourish, if pro-
perly cultivated. It is confidently believed, that the tea
plant would thrive v/ell, if transplanted into this Soil and
climate. An experiment of this kind would be an object
worthy the attention of the general government.
So inconsiderable was the production of cotton (which
now forms one of the grand staples of commerce in tlie
United States) before the treaty of Jay, in 1794, that the
regulation of its mart was not provided for in that na-
tional compact. Of so little importance was that great
source of future wealth, at that time held in estimation
by that able statesman.
The coiFee tree, the product of which, habit has fixed
among the articles of necessity, and rendered one of the
most important sources of traflic in America, was not in-
digenous there j nor was it known it would grow in that
G
26 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
quarter of the globe, till more than a century had elapsed
from its discovery, when the coffee tree was transplant-
ed from Asia into the West Indies. From the nature of
the soil and climate of Louisiana, Mississippi and Alaba-'
ma, may we not confidently hope, that a fair experiment
there, would prove successful, in the cultivation of the
olive and the coffee tree, the tea plant and the wine
grape ?
The state of Tennessee, which brings forth a greater
variety of vegetable productions than any state in the
Union, may be considered a middle link in the west,
which forms a medium of climate between the north and
the south.
The main business of common Jaborers, constituting
the great mass of population in Ihe west, will be the cul-
tivation of the lands. Although the prolific qualities of
the soil, render less skill and labor necessary here, for
the sustentation of life, than on the shores of the Atlan-
tic ; for the amusement of the curious, and the instruc-
tion of those whose laborious manner of life has not
spared them leisure to trace the sensible effects in the
vegetable kingdom to their proper causes, we have been
induced to submit the following remarks.
Soil has a great capacity of absorbing and retaining'
putrid effluvia, proceeding from dead animal bodies, and
decayed vegetables. And tliat, when saturated with such
particles, it does not easily part with them, appears from
the long stench of dead bodies, covered by the surface of
the ground, and tlie healthy state of the cultivator, whose
daily employment is that of stirring up the soil. Nor
does it appear that the -ground, wheti turned up, emit^
any noxious qualities to the air ; the smell of moist eartli
being commonly agreeable and wholesome. Hence tha
preldiinahy remarks. S7
restoration of health to those used to a city life, from tra>-
versing cultivated fields, and partaking of rural exercises.
Dry earth is without smell, until it is moistened to a
soft pap, when it diffuses a strong and delightsome efflu-
via, retaining putrid particles, which chiefly constitute
the food of plants ; and at the same time exhaling a
smell delightful to the sense, and salubrious to the con-
stitution of man.
The putrefaction of dead animals in air and water is
offensive; wliile the same process in earth, emits fra-
grant odours. Thus it appears, that air and water act
as powerful solvents, but cannot transform and com-
pound like eai th, substances to which it is exposed. —
It will be worthy our attention to consider what imme-
morially has been done to the soil, with a view to pro-
mote vegetation.
Long and various experience have proved, that most
soils may be ameliorated by some of the means that fol-
low : —
1. Frequent ploughing, or fallowing, exposes the dif-
ferent qualities of tlie soil to the action of the air and sun,
which operate as dissolvents on the many roots and ve-
getables with which it generally abounds ; and the earth
being decomposed from them, mixes with the soil, and
these by the prolific powers of the whole, are brought in-
to action, to further the process of vegetation. As stir-
ing the earth tends to destroy the oils and salts, it would
seem that they ought not to be considered the food of
vegetables, nor that such a process contributes to extract
from the air nitrous salts, which have always proved det-
rimental to vegetation.
2. Overflowing of ground produces fertility in a
manner not unlike ploughing, by effecting putridity and
/ ^
28 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
decomposition. It first stops, and eventually destroy*
(if continued) existing .vegetation, except it be of the
aquatic kind. But its eftect after the waters are with-
drawn, combined with the sun's heat, is to decompose the
old vegetable growth, with the fresh alhivion brought on,
and thereby wonderfully to fertilise the soil.
3. Manuring is another process, by which to promote
vegetation. The principal manures wluch have been
found most efficacious, are : 1. lime, chalk, marl, shells, ,
and other earths, called calcareous, which are all of the
same nature; 2. soot; 3. ashes; 4. dung of different
kinds. Calcareous earths, such as lime, chalk, marl, &c.
contain neitlier salt nor oil of any kind. The most bene-
ficial efiect of these calcareous earths, is that of decom-
posing and reducing to a fine light loam all dead animal
and vegetable substances ; of a similar nature to which
is supposed to be soot. Ashes, and all kinds of dung,
have been proved to be not unlike calcareous manures,
in their effects on the soil.
It follows, from what we have premised, that a farmer,
to produce good crops, if he find his land in a fertile con-
dition, should pursue a course of cultivation that \n\\ not
impoverish the soil. If his soil be barren, he should im-
pregnate it, by all practicable means, with substances
whicli contain putrid matter, or which are in their own
nature, dissolvents, or promoters of putrefaction and de-
composition.
It has been thought not improper to subjoin the fore-
going brief summary, as an outline of the theory of agri-
culture, verified by modern philosophical experiments,
and recommended by the most successful cultivators.—*
Such are the materials which form the surface of the.
earth, that it was deemed a few hints on what constituted
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. k^
flie fertility of the soil, and the means of restoring it, when
exhausted, would not be inconsistent with our design.
Another extent of surface in a body, covered with lime
and calcareous earth, (with rare exceptions, and those
confined to small portions,) so large, is not perhaps to
be found on the face of the globe. This calcareous re-
gion extends from the great lake waters, eastwardly to
the foot of the Allegany mountains ; to the most eastern
boundary of the state of Tennessee, and westwardly over
the Mississippi to the unexplored regions. The soil co-
vering this extensive tract, may be considered generally
as consisting of materials derived from the decomposition
of limestone and shells, intermixed with a large propor-
tion of loam, composed of decayed vegetables. Hence
the great fertility, strength and durability of the soil. —
The exuberant foliage and vegetation, that have been
accumulating on the surface for ages, without being
exhausted by crops, have been constantly changing into
nutriment for trees an'd plants, by the digestive qualities
of the calcareous earths, with wliich they come in con-
tact ; the earth operating on the decayed vegetables not
unlike the action of the gastric juice on food taken into
the stomach. Thus has nature provided for the husband-
man, in the soil of this new country, if rural labors be
rightly managed, inexhaustible means of support and
sources of wealth.
He is fortunately exempted from that tedious and ex-
pensive process of manuring, to which the farmers of old
settled countries, rendered sterile by a long course of
cropping, are necessarily subjected, flere the cultiva-
tor has little else to do than to clear oft', fence, and so
husband his ground as to preserve its original fertility,
and nature will perform the rest.
30 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
As before observed, most of the stones are lime. Over
a large portion of the )|urface of the west, they form a
kind of strata. Being shaped flat, from one to nine inch-
es thick, they are very portable, easily broken with a ham-
mer, and are cohveoient for walls of buildings, cellars,
and various other uses. But as clay of a good quality,
is commonly abundant, bricks are generally preferable
for building. The manner in which nature has provided
for the convenience of rural husbandry, in disposing of
these stones, is worthy of curious remark. They are
placed just below the soil, where they oppose no obstruc-
tion to the plough, and yet they are handy to be come at,
and may be generally found between the soil and the
clay, or pan, on gentle declivities, where the rains by
washing down the soil, which is remarkable for its levity
and fineness of texture, has left them bare, and rendered
them accessible without digging.
Growth of Timber, Trees, &c. — The forest trees of
the west grow to an uncommon •Keightj are generally
straight and free from limbs for a great distance from
the ground. Several species, as the sycamore, the pop-
lar, the white oak and black walnut, grow to an extraor-
dinary size, some of which have been found to exceed
thirty feet in circumference near the ground. The fol-
lowing species are among the principal trees, which are
scattered pretty generally over the greater part of the
western forests : Black walnut, butternut, various kinds
of hickory and oak, sugar maple,* red flowering maple,
cotton wood, aspen,* buckeye, sassafras, red bud, wild
cherry, sycamoj/e, pawpaw, black locust, poplar, beech,
chesnut, horn beam, red cedar, hackberry, persimmon,
elm, white, swamp and blue ash. South of 35°, some of
the above species are rarely found, particularly such as
PRELIMINARY REMARKS, 31
are marked*. Water pine, pitch pine, the latter of which
is far the most prevalent of any species in the south ;
tilt cypress, and live-oak (the latter affording the most valu-
able timber for ship frames of any in the United States)
are rarely discoverable further north than 35°. There
are many other less considerable species of trees in the
western forests, besides a rich shi-ubbery ; various kinds
of wild plumbs, grapes and berries, and almost an infinite
diversity of herbaceous vegetables, many of which affwd
valuable ingredients for the mat^ia medica.
A traveller passing from the Atlantic states, over the
lofty region of the Allegany, and descending into the
Ohio valley, is agreeably surprised, on finding nature ar-
rayed in a novel and more splendid garb. Plants, trees
and everyspecies of vegetation, exhibit an appearance to
which he has been unaccustomed. They are formed on
a gi-ander scale— their dimensions being greatly enlarg-
ed, and their foliage having imbibed a deegf r and more
vivid green.
Climate, Diseases, &c. — 'Our speculations. on the cli-
mate of the west may principally be confined to that re-
gion which lies between latitude 29" and 44°, and 3° and
23° west longitude. Most of the remaining tracts, for
'reasons already assigned, will probably continue in a
wilderness state for a century. To the northward of
42°, the country between the high lands, that divide the
waters of the Missouri and the Mississippi, to lake Michi-
gan, including the territory of Michigan, being exposed
to the winds which pour down over the Rocky and Chip-
pewan mountains from the f rot en regions of the north-
west, is much colder than the Atlantic states, under the
same latitude. It may generally be observed, that the
temperature of the atmosphere, west of the Alleganies,
^
3S PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
is more variable in the winter, and less in the summer
months, than in the northern Atlantic states. In the for-
mer, the heat of the summer does not so much excel in •*' '
degree, as in durability and uniformity. It therefore is
not so sensibly felt, because the human body acquires a
habit which renders the indurance of the same extreme
more tolerable. And the same remark will apply in
noi'thern latitudes, with respect to extreme cold.
That region, whose temperature of heat through the
various seasons is the uaost uniform, and which produces
the fewest uneasy sensations in the human constitution,
other causes affecting health being equal, may be consi-
dered the most salubrious. The region of the west, be-
tween latitude 35° and 40°, generally possesses a climate
as nearly perhaps corresponding to the one last described, »
as any section of the United States. Within tliis tract,
extending over five degrees due north, there is, however,
considerable variation; local causes often producing more
sensible effects on health, than vaiiation of latitude-
Here, as in other places, elevated situations being gene-
rally accompanied with pure air and running streams of
limpid water, are the most healthy. Stagnant waters,
putrid animals and vegetables, are among the principal
causes, in summer months, which engender disease.-—*
Exuberant vegetation springing up from level, marshy
grounds, saturated and covered with still waters, shaded *
by thick forest trees, when acted upon by an ardent sun,
are a fruitful cause of diseases in all climates, but parti-
cularly so in southern latitudes, where the air suspends,
in the form of vapor, lai^e quantities of humid particles.
It is not uncommon for the human species to enjoy per-
fect health, while exposed to heat exceeding 90 degrees
of Farenheit's thermometer, if situated remote from the
• PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 33
influence of animal and vegetable substraices, that have
become putrid and decomposed by the action of heat and
moisture. The first settlers of a country covered with
%oods, are natural! y inclined to select for their places of
residence the richest soil, which is commonly found on
the margins of languid streams, whose alluvial shores
consist of decayed vegetables, not sufiSciently exposed to
the rays of the sun to expel the miasmata, with which they
are surcharged. And these settlers, possessing vigorous
and robust constitutions from northern latitudes, where
they have been accustomed to a dry, pure air, are the most
apt subjects to be acted upon,' by those noxious effluvia,
which are the powerful sources of human maladies. In-
stead of employing the late fall or vidnter months for
occupying their new habitations, they emigrate and seat
themselves down, during the periods when heat and mois-
ture produce their most destructive effects on the con-
stitution. Not taught from necessity, in their native
land, to avoid the night air, by filling up the chinks of
their cabbins, keeping themselves wdthin doors after tlie
evening vapors are suspended, and preventing the causes
of noxious exhalations, proceeding from water and slops
spilled through the floors of their houses, they are uii«-
wai-ily taken down by malignant fevers, before their
constitution becomes tempered, to the climate, and their
new mode of li\ing. Hence the reputation, acquired to
the country, of an unhealthy and sickly climate. The
lake countries, and the low rich alluvial soils, bordering
on still and languid streams, even in the nortliern lati-
tudes of the state of New York, the northern part of
Ohio, and the two Canadas, abundantly verify the fore-
going remarks. In which places, we ourselves, during a
long residence there, have witnessed, that as soon as the
34 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. *
thick woods and wild vegetables, with which the ground
was covered, were removed bj culture, a good state of
health has been generally restored, and tlie peasant has
pursued lais rural labors with his usual vigor and cheer-
fulness.
But it is not to be disguised, there are many situations
westward, extending over considerable tracts of rich land,
which nature has rendered incapable of being so improved
by the hand of man, as to be eligible spots, in point of
health, for permanent settlements. Of this description
are the borders of stagnant waters, which cannot be
drained, and champaign grounds, from wliich overflowed
waters cannot find an outlet, nor a passage into the earth
beneath. As they partially dry up, the surrounding at-
mosphere is contaminated with their noxious exhalations.
There are other places not uniformly healthy, on mai-gins
of rivers that flood occasionally, once in five or six years,
during a season when an exuberant crop of vegetables
cover the ground. Such occurrences are often followed
by malignant diseases, proceeding from the putridity of
the vegetables, after the waters have subsided. But all
sites for permanent settlements, like those, prudent emi-
grants will avoid. After the country becomes populous,
and the best stands are occupied, these insalubrious spots
may be rendered very useful in divers ways, other than to
be occupied as places of habitation.
It must, however, be acknowledged as a fact, that theie
is less elasticity of air, in the western, than the north-
western states. The langour and ennui continue more
uniformly through the summer, and is not so frequently
relieved by the bracing tone of the morning and evening
air. But, on the other hand, in the west, the winter air
is but seldom accompanied with that extreme raw chilling
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 35
atmosphere, which frequently and suddenly succeeds a
milder temperature at the northwest, and lays the foun-
dation of mortal pulmonary diseases. Such diseases be-
ing often produced, as is conceived, by loading the lungs
with that extraneous matter which usually passes off' by
perspiration through the pores of the skin, which a moist,
cold, raw air tends to obstruct or seal up. Our own ob-
servations have convinced us, that west of the Alleganies
there does not one death, caused by pulmonary com-
plaints, happen for ten by the same disease in the north-
ern states, within the same extent of population.
The diseases vulgarly called the spotted fever, and cold
plague, which in the severest seasons of winter cold, at
t^e northeast, have occasionally made dreadful ravages,
and proved extensively malignant and mortal, in the west
have rarely made their appearance.
On the whole, it is confidently believed, that by pru-
dent care, health may be as effectually preserved, and life
as pleasantly enjoyed, so far as depends on climate, and
as long protracted generally, west of the Alleganies, as in
any part of the Atlantic States.
MINERALS.
The tract of country commencing on the west bank
of the Mississippi, a little south of the St. Francis, and
proceeding near the former, upwards, about 200 miles,
and extending in that width in a direction parallel with
the main courses of the St, Francis and the White
rivers, about 600 miles, contains lead minerals, which
abound more generally and extensively, it is believed,
than in any other mineral tract in the known world In
all the great rivers which traverse this region, such as
the Maramack, the Gasconade, the Osage, the Mine ri-
yer of the Missouri, the LeJVIoines, and the Mississipj)i,
36 PRELIMn^TARY REMARKS.
below the Ouisconsing, the ore in numerous places is
discovered in their channels, and in the ravines, where
iHe soil has been removed bj the waters.
The mines at the Ouisconsing, on the Mississippi, a-
bove the Praire du Chien, are in the possession of the.
Sacs and Foxes. They are exclusively wrought by those
tribes of Indians, and are supposed to be the richest yet
discovered.
The productive lead mines, which at present are
wrought, lie between the St. Francis and the Maramack,
embracing a tract about 60 miles long, and 25 wide. —
The common mode of refining lead ore is very simple ;
there being but on« regular furnace, the rest are mere
temporary establishments. The most common are built
on the declivity of a hill, with stones, open at the top,
with an arch below. Tliree large logs, of a size to fit
the furnace, about four feet wide, are covered with small
pieces of wood placed round, and the ore is then heaped
up in large lumps. If fire be set to it in the evening, by
the next morning a sufiicient quantity of lead Avill be
melted in the reservoir, or hole scratched in the earth
before the arch, to commence the operation of pouring it
into moulds to form pigs. There usually are seveml of
these furnaces joined together: about 6000 "pounds of
ore are put into each ; and the first smelting produces
50 per cent, besides leaving a quantity of scorched oi"e.
The ashes containing particles of scorched ore are wash-
■ cd and smelted in a furnace of different construction, and
yield 25 or SO per cent, more ; 75 per cent, being the
usual amount yielded by this rude process. Three new
modes of smelting have been introduced by tlie Ameri-
cans, viz. the open furnace, the ash furnace, and the air
furnace. The Creoles never having before smelted.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. ^37
txcept by throwing the we into log heaps. Arsenic and
sulphur being combined with the ore, the fumes proceed-
ing from the heat render the process of refming un-
iiealthy. On the other hand, mining or digging for the
ore, is considered favorable to health.
About forty miles from St. Genevieve, on a branch of
the Maramack, is Mine a Burton, discovered by Francis
Burton, who obtained a grant of land, and commenced
working the ere, more than forty years ago. It is now
mvned and ;Worked by Mr. Austin, who has ei'ected a
good smelting furnace at the place, which is now called
Potosi. Although this ore is not of the first quality, it
has been worked moi-e extensively and successfully than
any other mine yet discovered ; and the product has
well rewarded the expenses of the proprietor. The
oie is dug from an open praira, elevated almost 100 feet
above the level of the creek, and is supposed to extend
over some thousands of acres. The mineral is found
within two feet of the surface, in a strata of gravel, in
which it lies in lumps of from one to fifty pounds weight.
Under this strata is a sand rock, easily broken up with
a pickax, and whpn exposed to the air, crumbles to fine
sand. The ore intermixed in the sand rock is similar
to that in the upper gravel strata. Under the sand rock
is a strata of red clay,mor.e than six feet thick; beneath
the clay is the best ore, in lumps from ten to two or three
hundred pounds weight. Some portion of arsenic and
sulphur, and more or less of spar, antimony and zinc,
are sometimes found intermixed with the ore, wliich
yields from 60 to 75 per cent.
•'. .iJVew Diggings, about two miles east of the Mine a
Burton, were opened about the year 1806; and they
Attracted so much attentioH, as to draw most of the
38 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
iiiiners thither from other places. And it has been sup-
posed, that in the year during which these mines were
worked, more lead was made, than has been manufac-
tured for the same period of time ever since. But till
of late, these mines have been almost abandoned, from
interruption by water; which embarrassment is in a
manner now removed by machinery.
Mine Jrnault, north, of the Mine a Burton about six
miles, is situated upon a branch of the Mineral Fork. —
This mine has not been wrought many y^fs. It is be-
lieved that a rich mine exists very near this place.
Elliot's Dig^ngs, Old Mines, and tlie mines of Belle
Fontaine, are all in the same vicinity. Some of which
have been productive ; others neglected. :*
Brown^s Diggings, near those last mentioned, have
produced nearly one million pounds of lead in a year.
The La Platte, Joe's, and several other mines on the
head waters of the Maramack, exhibit appearances of
being rich, but have not as yet been thoroughly explored.
There are several other mines in this part of the
country, which we have omitted to particularise, where
lead has been manufactured to a good profit.
Mine a Burton, since Mr. Austin's improvements, is
calculated to produce to the amount of 820,000 a year.
Hence it may be presumed that many of the other mines,
by proper management, would yield a great profit.
The men now employed in mining, and jrefining the
ore, at tlie several lead mines, are supposed to exceed
sfive hundred; and it is believed that more than one
thousand tons of lead are produced annually. When
extensively explored and worked, there can be no doubt
the lead mines of the west will, besides supplying the
United States with that article, constitute one of the
grand staples for exportation.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. oVJ
Iron Ore is obtained in large quantities, and wrougftt,
>n the South Licking, four miles west of Zanesville ; on
Brush creek, and in some other places in the state of
Ohio. It is also found plentifully in the blufts of the
Bounty Lands, and in the Sanguamon country, in the
state of Illinois. It is plenty, and of a good quality, near
Brownstown, on the East Fork of White river ; and on
the various knobs which are planted between the Falla
of the Ohio and the Wabash, in the state of Indiana. It
is also found in some parts of the state of Alabama.
Copper mines have been discovered in some parts of
the state of Illinois ; but we have no definite knowledge
of their extent or quality. We can, however, speak with
more assurance of the copper mines near the Mississippi.
They begin near the Falls of St. Anthony, and extend
out to St. Croix, near lake Superior. "The southern shore
of lake Superior is supposed to display the largest and
richest mines of this metal in the world. Gen. Bissell,
by order of President Adams, in 1797, was sent out ta
explore the mines in that place ; and his report, accom-
panied with the specimens brought in, was so satisfactory,
that an establishment of a company to work the mines
was projected. But Mr. Adams's term of office expiring
before this wise policy was carried into eflfect, the mea-
sure was abandoned, and has not since been resumed.
Salines. — West of the lead mineral tract, previously
described, is that of the salines. It runs parallel with
the other, but goes farther south, and not so far north.
The extent, however, being but partially ascertained,
can be but partially defined. No salines yet discovered
in North America will bear a comparison with these.
On the Arkansaw and Osage, they are very numerous.
When the waters of the former are low, it is so brackish.
40 PRELIMINARY EEMARKS.
that boatmen navigating the river are compelled to pro-
vide fresh ^^'ater, as on a voyage upon the ocean. Air
the salines on the Osage, there is a greater number of
huge mammoth bones, and of other ani>nals, new extinct,
than at the Big Bone Lick, or any other part of America.
Nature seems to have bountifully provided for the in-
habitants of the west, so remote from the ocean, salt, that
indispensable necessary. Licks and salt springs are
found in almost every portion of the western country.
The salines on Kenhawa river, in the w^istern part of
Virginia, furnish the most considerable quantity of salt,
which is at present consumed between t!ie AUeganies
^nd the Mississippi. Here tlie salt water, as in many
other places, is obtained by penetrating the earth with
an aug-er, from 100 to 400 feet deep.-^' The salt water is
generally deposited 'in divers extensive narrow ca\'ities,
from one to five inches thick, expanded parallel with the
strata of limestone which encloses it. At the town of
New-Lexington, Indiana, one salt well has been sunk
through the rocks with an auger 730 feet; tlte water is
strong, but ihe quantity too limited to_ be mqch worked.^
The fresh water near the surface is commonfy excluded
by a gum or curb, consisting of a hollow loo-, which ex-
tends to t!;e solid rock, where it is made v- iter tight. The
iklt water is ahfayS forced up to the level of the fresh
water stream, which flows near by. For, v/ithout a stream
of fresh water nigh, on the surface, it is said, the salt
water cannot be raised.
In the state of Kentucky, among divers salt springs or
licks of less note, the five most considerable are : the
Upper and Lower Blue Springs, on Licking river j Eig
Bone Lick ; Drennon- s Lick, and Bullitt's Lick, at Salts-
burah. The amount of salt made in tliis state, at tlie
I>R£LIMI?JARY REMARK^. 41
«
several licks, in the i^ear 1816, was computed to exceed
500,000 bushels.
In the state of Ohio, considerable salt is made on Yel-
low, Killbuck and Allura creeks ; at the Scioto salt
works, and on the eastern waters of the Misskingiim.
In the statp of Indiana, varioiis salt springs and licks
have been found ; but their waters have not proved strong
enough to be worked with much profit. It is believed,
however, that by sinking wells, plenty of strong water
might be had.
In the state of Illinois, on the Saline, navigable, thirty
miles, which joins the Ohio 26 miles below the Wabash,
the United States have salt works, where about 300,000
bushels are annually made. Those who hire the woi'ks,
are obligated to^ell the salt at 75 cents per bushel. —
Strong indications of salt are frequent in the Bounty
Lands, and the Sanguamon country ; but wells have not
yet been sunk, to ascertain the strength and quality of
the water.
Stone Coal abounds in various parts of the western
country. Large quantities of it have been discovered in
the eastern part of the state of Ohio : — on Big Muddy
creek; on the banks of the Kaskaskia, near the town of
that name ; near Edwardsville ; near Alton, and on the
Illinois, by Illinois lake, and in some oih^v places in thej
state of Illinois : — on the banks of the Wabash, and on
the East Fork of White river, near Indostan, in the state
of Indiana. Coal is supposed also to be plenty in tlie
state of Tennessee, and in tlie Missouri^ Territory. It
also abounds on the banks of the Cahaba and the Black
Warrior, in the state of Alabama.
, Copperas, allum arid nitre, are said to have been found
in Hie state of Tennessee.
43 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
ANTIQUITIES.
The ancient mounds, fortifications, and spacious high-
ways', west of the AUeganies, are the chief works of art,
constructed by tlie ancient inhabitants, that have survived
the ravages of time, so as to remain distinguishable from
the operations of natural causes. Their number, mag-
nitude, and general appearance, all prove that an exten-
sive and dense population must have preceded these
stupendous works; and that those who erected them
must have possessed a faculty of contrivance, and a
Aj.^ spirit of persevering industry, far exceeding any speci-
mens of art, or endurance of labor, of wliich we have any
knowledge from the ingenuity or labors of conmioh sava-
ges. These remains of ancient labors are commonly
found amo'ng the most abundant natural means of sus-
taining life — such as extensive, champaign, fertile tracts
of ground, bounded or intersected by pure streams of
running water, where fish might be caught plentifully.
The sites for defence have, with much discernment, often
been selected on the tops of the highest hills, contiguous
to the lands best adapted to cultivation, and near large
streams, that abundantly supplied fish. Thus with bread,
fish, vegetaWes, and the wild game caught from the sur-
rounding forest, these ancient people possessed ample
'means of increasing the number of their tribes. The
mounds of the high grounds served for convenient ob-
servatories to view the rising of the sun, and of the new
and full moon, which in themselves either constituted
for those credulous and superstitious people the objects
of worship, or served to designate the hours when to
oifer up to other idols, as gods, their morning and even-
ing orisons and sacrifices. Or, perhaps, the elevated spot
©f the top of a mound on a hill, might be intended as a
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 43
kind of w atchtower, whence their centinels might espy
the approach, and announce the alarm of an enemy. —
The spacious dtig M^ays by the side of, and around the
adjoining hills, gave them the facility of speedily gaining
their fort, securing their persons from attack, and their
property from pillage, if suddenly surprised on the low
grounds. It is not improbable, that the erection of
mounds on the low grounds, might embrace three objects:
First, to constitute a post of look out, whereby to be fore-
warned of hostile aggi-ession. Secondly, to serve as a
monument that would symbolically preserve the memo-
rial of extraordinary events respecting the tribe or nation;
sucli as a treaty, or a victory, or a wonder^'ul phenomenon
of naturft— ^an earthquake, an eclipse of the sun, or a
sweeping pestilence. A third object in these mounds,
might be, a cemetery for the dead.
Some large mounds appear to have been found near
battle grounds, where the slain were deposited ; as efaca.-
vations in them have displayed fractured bones, that
seemed, from the confused posture in which they lay, to
have been the relics of bones that have been hastily
thrown together. Others appear to be designed as bury-
ing grounds of such as died by sickness, or common acci-
dents. Large mounds are not unfrecj[uently surrounded
by others, of not one-tenth the magnitude j perhaps the
large were used as common, and the small as private
family burial places, or as a permanent testimonial of
respect for a distinguished chief. Mounds have often
been found near the centre of fortifications, or rather in
that part which would command the widest prospect. —
In these latter have rarely been discovered any human
bones. This circumstance induces us to infer, they were
intended merely as posts of discovery. It is observablei
44 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
that the usual manner of depositing dead bodies, was to
place flat stones, and then earth ; and so alternately are
found layers of skeletons, stones and earth. This custoui
might be designed as some superstitious cert'inony ; or
to protect the dead bodies from ravenous wild beasts.
These ancient works extend from the soulliern shores
of the Canadian lakes, in a sou th westward ly direction,
through the western part of tlie state of 'New York, and
tlience across the western states, to the plains of Mexico.
As they indicate more laborious hfibits, and a greater po-
pulation than the modern tribes of savages possess, and
'as they have been represented by travellers to be of the
same description with tliose in Mexico, would it not be a
reasonable conjecture to suppose, that the people who
erected them were . from the same stock ? Perhaps, it
would not so much resemble romance, as history, to
hazard an opinion, that the progenitors of the ^!exicans
firstfseated themselves down, on their emigrating to Ame-
rica, in the Mississippi and Ohio valleys, or that they
came there after settling Mexico, and so multiplied, from
the cultivation of tlie soil, as to extend a numerous popu-
lation over most of the best tracts in the western states ;
and that, after constructing numerous fortifications for a
defence against the savage tribes, who, more fierce and
warlike, had more recently found their way from their
native country to North America, were by the latter ex-
terminated, or driven to the south, into the Mexican pro-
vinces.
But that we may not dwell too long in the regions of
conjecture, where we can have no light from tlie faithful
page of history to direct our course, we will proceed to
describe some of the most remai'kable cf these works
within our knowledge.
prelimikahy remarks. 43
Near the confluence of: the Ohio and Big Miami, on the
west bank, is an extensive rich bottom, consisting of seve-
ral thousand acres ;• on, and in the vicinity of which, are
several ancient mounds. .Northwardly of Hardensburgh,
one half mile from the Miami, on the top of a hill, sup-
posed to be elevated above the adjoining bottom 150 feet,
18 a fortificatiorv inclosing ten or twelve acres. The wall
of earth, from four to five fe6t high, does not conform to
any exact figm-e, but is regulated in its direction by tVie
extremities of the level ground roimd the top of the hill,
at the highest points of declivity, in an irregular form, so . 'N^
as to inclose all the level ground. There are two Or
three gate ways. On the south, near where the hill is
very steep, within the fort, is a considerable mound, and
on the south side of the hill, about one-third of the dis-
tance from the base to the top, is a spacious high way,
more than thirty feet in width, remarkably level and
straight, the excavation on the upper side of which in
some parts of the hill, is 12 or 15 feet deep ; this high-
way extends in length on the side of the kill 160 rods,
each end terminating at points where the ^eclivity was
gentle, and the asgent easy to the fortification ; within
which are two considerable artificial concavities. The
numerous human bon'es washed bare by the rains, on the
sloping places, indicate that tlie ancient population here
was great.
On the opposite side of the Miami, on the top of a hill,
is another extensive fortification, described in Doctor
Drake's Picture of Cincinnati. Another is discoverable
on a hill two miles below Hamilton, containing more than
fifty acres, near which is a mound. Various otiier monu-
ments of ancient labors appear in the Miami country.
Mounds vary both in magnitude and form. Some aie
46 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
conical from the base to the top ; others present only flie
lower segment of a cone; others are semi-globular ;
others in the form of a parallelogram. At Marietta is
one of a conical figure, of seven rods diameter at the base,
50 feet high, and 20 feet diameter at top.
The largest mound which has been found in the Ohio
valley, stands at Big Grave creek, near the Ohio, 14 miles
below Wheeling. It is between 15 and 20 rods diameter
at the base, its perpendicular height 70 feet. On the
summit nearly 60 feet diameter, in the middle of which
is a regular cavity, consisting of about 3000 cubical feet,
on which is a handsome green white oak tree, three feet
diameter and more than seventy feet high. Within a
few rods stand five other smaller mounds.
The most remarkable appearances of mounds or pyra-
mids, in the western country, are on the Mississippi, con-
sisting of two gi'oupes. The one about ten miles above
the Kahokia, Avhich empties near St. Louis ; and the
other nearly the same distance below it — which in all
exceed one hundred and fifty. Near St. Louis, within
less than a mile of the Mississippi, on the east side, is
the upper groupe, which at a little distance resembles a
cluster of enormous hay stacks. They are generally cir-
cular ; and some of them, at a great height, have space
enough on the top to contain seteral hundred men. The
largest of these rhounds is a stupendous pile of earth, to
form which must have required the labors of thousands
for years. It stands immediately on the bank of the Ka-
hokia. Were it not for the regularity and design dis-
played, the plain alluvial ground on which it stands, and
the great number of others scattered around it, we could
scarce believe it the work of human hands. The shape
is a parallelogram from north to south ; on the south is a
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 47
broad apron, about half way down, and from this another
projection, nearly 15 feet wide ; the whole circumference
800 yards, and the height of the mound about 90 feet. —
The monks of La Trappe have settled near it, who have
made the apron into a kitchen garden, and sowed the top
with wheat. The extraordinary appearance of this clus-
ter of mounds, forces conviction on the reflecting mind,
that they are the only relics which time has secured from
oblivion, of a great and populous city. The large mounds
were probably sites of temples, and many of the smaller
ones monuments of distinguished chiefs. There is per-
haps no spot in the west capable of producing more abun-
dantly, and supporting a more numerous population than
this valley, called the American Bottom, which is a tract
of rich alluvion, extending on the Mississippi from the
Kaskaskia to the Kahokia rivers, about eighty miles in
length, and from three to twelve miles in breadth. The
great number of mounds, and the surprising quantity of
human bones every where dug up, or found on the surface
of the ground, with divers other appearances, prove this
valley to have been anciently filled with tlie habitations
of men.
Near St. Louis is a curious work, much admired, called
the Fallen Garden. It suggests to the spectator the idea
of a situation for assembling the people for public councils.
The time would fail us in presenting to our readers
all these curious works of antiquity, so widely scattered
over the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, which demon-
strate the existence of millions of human beings who
probably flourished more than a thousand years ago —
whose numbers and social condition is so remote from
historical research, that even the confused annals of tra-
dition present not the most iadistinct view of them.
48 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
NATURAL CURIOSITIES.
The Gates of the Rocky Mountains, so called, on the
Missouri, present a great curiosity. For the distance of
more than five miles the rocks rise in perpendicular
height from the surface of the water nearly 1200 feet. —
There the waters of that great river are cora pressed with-
in the compass of 150 yards wide ; and for three miles,
there is but one small space, on wliich a man can stand,
between the water and* the perpendicular" ascent of the
mountain.
There are numerous caverns, of great extent and mag-
nitude, in the states of Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana,
in wlxich large quantities of salt petre are made. In
Rock Castle county, Kentucky, there is a cave so large,
tliat a yoke of oxen and a cart can be driven in at one
side of a hill, half a mile through, and out at the other.
In the county of Warren is another, which: has been ex-
plored for seven miles, without finding the extremity. —
There are three natural fountains of bitumen, Avhich, it
is said, havfe proved a useful substitute for lamp oil.
In the state of Indiana, not far from Big Blue river,
is a spacious cave, more than tv/o miles in extert. The
entrance is in the side of an elevated hill. Large quan-
tities of Epsom salt, and salt petre, are found in this cave..
Here numerous calcareous exudations are displayed in
a variety of shapes, resembling artificial carvings. Bats-
inhabiting tliis cave are numerous ; and it is necessary
for an adventurer who would explore it, to preserve his
torch or candle from extinguishment by those creatures,
with a lantern. Within the the tract called the barrens,
expanding in divers directions several miles, there are
various other large caves ; On the bottonvs of some of
which flow sti^aras of water, large enough to diive mills.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 49
There is in the county of Orange, in this state, a large
stream, called Lost river; — ^^after flowing several miles
on the surface, the whole current suddenly sinks into the
earth, and is never seen or heard of more. Near a creek
that joins the Ohio about a mile west of New-Albany, is
a spring, so strongly impregnated with sulphurated hy-
drogen gas, as to produce combustion, by placing a torch
(St lighted candle a little above the water. About six
miles northwest of Corydon, near the Big Blue river, just
above the base of an elevated hill, bursts from amidst
tlie rocks, a cold spring, which in the dryest seasons is
copious enougli to drive two pair of stones and a saw, in
an elegant stone mill, built just by its mouth. There
are many other springs of this description, cold as any
well water, on which profitable mills are built, within
this state.
The Grand Salfiie is between two forks of a small
branch of the Arkansaw, about 280 miles southwest of
Fort Osage. It is a hard, level plain, of a reddish color-
ed sand, of an irregular figure, being in circumference
full thirty miles. From the appearance of driftwood
scattered on this tract, it would seem, ^e whole plain
was occasionally overflowed by the surrounding streams.
This plain is entirely covered, in dry hot weather, from
two to six inches deep, with a crust of beautiful, clean,
white salt, of a quality rather superior to the imported
blown salt, which bears a striking resemblance to a field
of new fallen snow, succeeded by rain, with a light
crust on the top. Nothing can be more picturesque
on a bright sunny morning, than this natural curiosity.
50 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
ANIMALS. *
Of the wild animals which range in tlie western forest,
we shall attempt to describe those only which are most
remarkable. Among this number may be classed the /
Grizzly Bear. — He is strong as the lion, and terrible
as the tyger of Bengal. He does not, like most other
animals, flee from the face of man, but pursues him. And
so dreadful is his approach, that his destruction by aft
Indian warrior is more honorable than the scalp of a
human enemy. He is nearly four times the size of a
common bear. Of one killed by Lewis and Clark, 2000
miles up the Missouri, the following dimensions are
given : round the head, 3 feet 5 inches ; round the neck,
3 feet 11 inches ; length, 8 feet 7^ inches ; round the foi*e
leg, 1 foot 1 1 inches ; length of talons, 4| inches. Their
whole weight has been known to exceed 1200 lbs. He
masters and devours the largest buffalo. His color is
commonly gray, and varies through all the intermediate
Jmes, from black to white. The skins will sell for 40 or
50 dollars, and are much esteemed for muifs and tippets.
This bear is rarely seen in a lower latitude thaji 45°.—
The Indians and hunters escape his pursuit, from his
wanting a faculty to climb. The former complain of the
loss of some of their best warriors by this animal. The
men of Lewis and Clark often narrowly escaped liim.
The Antelope, a species of deer, is a beautiful animal.
He is small, and goes in flocks of several hundreds, on
the Missouri, above tlie Platte. They are taken by tlie'
Indians, by being driven into the water, and killed with
clubs.
The Mountain Sheep, so called— to which animal they
have little resemblance, except in the feet, head and horns,
the latter of which are enormously large, being two feet
t: J,.-
PRELDHNARY REMARKS. 51
in length, and four or five inches in diameter — are larger
than the deer, having a fine soft hair, colored white on the
rump, but elsewhere of a dun hue. They are shy, clam-
ber over the craggy clifts, and graze upon the most peril-
ous precipices of the mountain's top.
The Buffalo recedes from the haunts of civilized man.
The Ohio valley formerly abounded with this animal. —
Numerous flocks were spread over the region constituting
the states of Kentuckj^ (^)hio, Indiana and Illinois. Im-
mense herds of them are now to be seen north of the
Illinois, and on the extensive plains of the Missouri. —
These animals have often been found in flocks so nume-
rous, as to cover the desert in which they range further
than the eye could reach. It has been estimated that
some of those herds amount to more than 50,000 head.
In the dry seasons they frequent the valleys of the great
rivers ; but they make regular migrations from north to
south, when they exhibit a regular train, marching or
swimming across the Missouri for several days, like the
procession of a great army.
JElk *nd Deer are very numerous, west of the Missis-
sippi. Of the latter are two species : — ^the black tailed,
or mule, are noted for long ears, and tails almost with-
out hair, except at the end, where is a small tuft of a
black color. The other kind has small horns, with tails
about twenty inclies long.
The Badger, different species of Wolves, and a Hare,
gray in summer and white in winter, are often seen in
this country.
The Praira Dog, found here, is a curious animal. It
inhabits burrows ; is about one-third larger than the fox
squirrel ; has a thick, clumsy head, large jaws, full, large
eyes, with small ears ; possesses a long body, short legs.
52 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
and a delicate small tail ; the hair short and sleek, of &
light gray, except on the belly, which is white. The noise
it makes is not unlike that of a ground squirrel, but much
louder, and somewhat resembles the barking of a small
cur. When met from home, on its first "lipproach it is
very fierce, although it may be easily caught, and in a<
few days is domesticated, and fond of being caressed. — •'
It seldom drinks; feeds on the grass near its hole, and'
remains torpid during the winter months. The towns,
{for so they are called) inhabited by this curious little
animal, frequently more than a mile in length, are in the
large prairas, 300 miles west of the Mississippi — on the
slopes of hills, distant from water courses. The approach
of a stranger is announced by the barking of all the curs '
in the village : they now take their stand behind the
small hillocks near their holes, into which they retreat
as the visitant approaches. The wolves hme declared
war against these republics, and often make great havoc
among the feeble inoffensive citizens.
The Gopher is considered a nondescript. It lives in
the prairas, under ground. It somewhat resembles the
mole, though twice as lai'gc ; having at each jaw a kind
of bag or purse, an inch and a half long, used to convey
food to, or transport dirt from its hole. It throws up
large cjuantities of earth, three or four feet in height.
Tiie Jllligator, too well known to require description,
is not now dreaded by the inliabitants, though it formerly
was considered ferocious and dangerous. The use of
their skins for saddles and shoes, has caused their num-
bers to be greatly diminislied of late years.
Tlie Camelion is very common in the southern parts ;
and it is said that the Scorpion and Tarantula exist
there.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 53
Among the feathered tribes of the west is the Praird
Hen, a beautiful bird, which in winter frequents barn
yards in large flocks ; is larger than the pi'casant, whicli
it resembles in color, but in shape is more like the guinea
hen. It is easily domesticated. The flesh is dry, dark
colored, and not agreeable to the taste. On the Missouri
is a fine bird, much resembling a pheasant, but as large as
a turkey hen. The Magpie is found in great numbers
on the Missouri. The plumage of the Columbia Part-
ridge is very beautiful.
Of the Fish hi the western loafers, it is remarkable,
tliat tliere are many of a distinct species from any which
swim in the streams of the Atlantic shores. The narrow
limits pi-escribed to our work, will not admit of a classical,
nor of a particular description of each species ; nor shall
we attempt to embrace in our list all the numerous tribes
which traverse the waters of the Mississippi and its tribu-
tary streams. Of those most worthy of note, the follow-
ing is a catalogue, as named after the manner of the coun-
try :— cat fish, perch, pike, bass, buffalo, suckers, sturgeon,
hickory shad, flat fish, salmon, (bearing no resemblance,
except in form, to that fish, properly so called, in the
streams of the Atlantic) eels, bill fish, black fish, gars,
rock fish, sun fish, mullet and herrings. The fish of the
western rivers are inferior in quality either to the salt,
or fresh water fish of the east. Indeed, such as are of
the same species, are much less nutritious and well fla-
vored, than those in the Atlantic streams. This inferi-
ority, perhaps, may be traced to the lower temperature
of the waters the latter swim in. Southern latitudes, by
causing the waters to imbibe a larger portion of heat, ren-
dering the fish more soft and insipid. Of all these tribes
eS
M PRELIMIKARY REMARKS.
of fish, the caf, which is esteemed among those of the
best quality, is the most remarkable for its size, weighing
from 20 to 170 pounds. The foregoing remarks are to
be understood as having no reference to the western
lakes, and the streams that empty into them.
^The Indian J\/'4Tiof!s occupying the vast plains and
forests within the region of the Mississippi, Missouri,
and their respective tributary streams, above St. Louis,
consist of about seventy distinct tribes, the whole popu-
lation of which is estimated at 102,000 souls, and their
number of warriors at 28,000.
* The stature of these natives, of which the Snake tribe
is the largest, may generally be considered a size larger
than the Avhites. It is supposed the aggregate population
of all the tribes has diminislied nine-tenths within thirty-
five years, piincipally by the small pox. The population
is very thin, and disproportionate to the great extent of
space occupied. Among all the tribes, there are not ten
villages, permanently settled down, and inured to agri-
cultural habits. The most of these savages wander in
tribes through the vast plains and forests, carrying with
them, by the aid of their horses and dogs, all their pro-
perty ; except their corn, and a few heavy articles, which
they secrete in secure places until their return. Whole
lierds of buffalo, like the flocks of the Tartars, are driven
before tliem, on which they feed, kindling their fires with
the ordure which is dropped from these animals.
Their ruling passion is the love of war, and a thirst
for the blood of their enemies, whom they often pursue
ii(iore than a thousand miles. Their arms principally are
bows, spears, clubs, and light fusees ; but in hunting the
bow is the main weapon.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 55
The mode of traffic between the several tribes, is sin-
gular. There is no estimate of the things sold, nor dis-
pute about the price. One tribe encamps near the village
©f another, and after exchanging mutual civilities, one
party makes a present of all the articles they can spare j
the other in return makes a similar present, and the in-
tercourse is concluded by a variety of pastimes and na-
tional dances, in which recreation each tribe joins the
other with mutual harmony and friendship. They hold
in contempt the mode of traffic by civilized nations-
alleging that the weighing and measuring of trifles dis-
plays a narrow and mean spirit.
In the opinion of Gen. Clark, who traversed that Jt-
gion with Gov. Lewis, the number of Indians on the Co-
lumbia, and the Multnomack, flowing into it sixty miles
from the Pacific, including the extensive country through
which the various tributary streams of each of those rivers
pass, could not be much less than one hundred thousand.
The west bank of the Ohio, from the state of Pennsyl-
vania to the Mississippi, it seems, is destined to be an ex-
tensive boundary between the free and the slave states.
And a great experiment is about to be made, in a confe-
derated republic, by the effects of slavery on the morals
and manners of republican freemen. As the natural
causes, connected with the welfare of the community, in
the States on both sides of the Ohio may be considered
equal, the preponderating influence of slavery on the
manners and morals of the whites, and indeed, on the
rational felicity of individuals, and the substantial pros-
perity of republican institutions, will afford a matter of
curious speculation for the political philosopher. It is,
however, beyond a doubt, that the result will not be un-
propitious to the cause of freedom, .
56 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
Mthough little is known of the particular geograjihy
of the Floridas, their cession to the United States by the
Spanish gorernment, will not be foreign to our subject. —
West Florida, when considered alone, and disconnected
fi'om the country north of it, is not of considerable value ;
yet, possessing all the avenues of commerce to and from
that large productive country, extending to the sources
of the Pearl, Pascagoula, Tombigbee, Alabama, Conecah,
Caltachoca and Flint rivers, the acquisition of this pro-
vince is highly important. Live oak and red cedar, tim-
ber of the first quality for ship building, abound on the
coast, which is rare on lands of the United States. The
harbors are numerous, and safe for coasters; that of
Pensacola admitting vessels of almost any burden. All
these considerations render that district commercially
important, and a most valuable acquisition to the U. S.
East Florida is less important from its extent of terri-
tory, and quality of soil, than from the protection its
situation will afford to the commerce between the Atlan-
tic and western states. It may be considered a key to
the Gulf of Mexico ; and is a most convenient position
from whence as well to protect our own merchantmen, as
to annoy those of ^ belligerent enemy, concerned in the
trade of the West India islands. Hordes of pirates and
picaroons from the Bahama islands will no longer find
shelter in this province, to molest the lawful commerce
of the high seas; nor will foreign incendiaries here longer
find protection from the imbecility of a feeble adminis-
tration, like that of old Spain.
The country weU of the Mleganies was first disco-
vered and traversed by the French. The settlements
made around and above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, under
the patronage of the king of France^ opened the way for
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 57
the discovery of that extensive range of countiy border-
ing on the waters of the Mississippi and Ohio.
In 1671 a Frenchman from Canada, named INIarquette,
ascended the Fox river from lake Michigan, and, de-
scending the Ouisconsing, first discovered the Missis-
sippi, and explored it to the mouth of the Missouri.
La Salle was the first white man who traversed the
region from the St. Lawrence to the Oliio and Mississippi,
and discovered the mouth of the latter, in 1680. Soon
after this period, a French colony was sent out, to take
possession of the country. But no settlements were
made on the waters of the Oliio, until the year 1735;
when the French made a permanent establishment at
Vincennes. The British government, resolving to en-
force their claim to this western region, granted 600,000
acres of land, on the waters of the Ohio, to a company, in
1750. The jealousy of file French prompted them to
open a communication from the fort at Presqu' Isle down
the Allegany to the Ohio, and in 1753 erected, at the
junction of the rivers Allegany and Monongahela, Fort
Du Quesne, — which they were compelled by the British
in 1758 to evacuate, who changed the name to Fort Pitt,
now Pittsburgh.
In 1763 the French ceded to the British all claims to
the territory between the Alleganies and the Mississippi.
The revolutionary war soon checked the progress of emi-
gration to the Ohio. The terror inspired by the hostile
disposition of the natives, prevented any settlements
within the limits of the state of Ohio, until 1788. In the
spring season of that year, the Ohio Company, under the
management of Rufus Putnam, commenced a settlement,
consisting of emigrants from New-England, at the mouth
of the Muskingum, to which they gave the name of Mari^
58
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
■■» 1
etta. In tlie succeeding autumn, John Cleves Symmes,
from the state of New-Jersey, made the next settlement,
at North Bend, five miles above the mouth of the Great
Miami. About the same time Fort Washington was
erected at Cincinnati, and a settlement commenced at
tlie mouth of the Little Miami, called Columbia. The
barbarous incursions of the savages, hov.ever, opposed a
powerful check to emigration, until the victory of Wayne,
which was followed by the treaty of Greenville, in 1795.
Since this period, population has continued to flow from
the east into the western country, to an extent which
has exceeded the most sanguine expectations.
How large a range of territory, a free Republic, like
that of the United States, can successfully extend its
jurisdiction over, yet remains a problematical question ;
there being, in the history of man, no parallel to our
federal constitution, whence light can be obtained by the
sage «r the statesman, that will direct his labors to an
experimental, demonstrative result, in his deliberations
on tliis most interesting subject.
*rhe republics of Greece, Carthage and Rom5, among
the ancients ; and of the Swiss Cantons, and Seven Uni-
ted Provinces, among the moderns; while they displayed,
under various impediments, the wonderful effects of the
accumulated energies of the people, directed by them-
selves, — lacked those apportionments, checks and balan-
ces of power, which impart stability and duration to civil
institutions.
Political confederacies some of them certainly had';
but they were as ropes of sand, all rendered weak by
their party patriotism, and their adhei'ence to local inter-
ests. And these strong passions, continually opposing
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 09
barriers to the general regulations, provided for the good
of the whole, the federative government had not power
to extinguish, or control. Each of these systems had
several distinct bodies politic, with several heads and
several wills, without authority in the federal head to
coerce the citizens. Nor were those heads, that seemed
without means to execute their wills, in some of their
principal features, unlike the old confederation of the
United States, that possessed no other power of control-
ling the members of the federative body, than that of re-
commendation.
Nothing less than common danger could hold the sys-
tem together, nor effect unity of design and combined
exertion. The government lacked strength to enforce
obedience to its will, and to resist the violence offered to
public authority, by punishing the licentiousness of faction.
The confidence of the people in their political jugglers,
or of the numerous veteran soldiery in their popular
military chief, rendered them stronger than the laws. — •
The patriotism of the people, through ignorance mista-
king their feelings and attachments for a knowledge of
their rights, committed the care of their lives and fortunes
to their unprincipled favorites ; or a brave army returning
Prom foreign conquests, devoted to their general, seconded
lis efforts in causing the people to acknowledge his right
jf controlling them ; a surrender of privileges which they
lad not power to forbear making, nor means of recover-
ing back into their own possession.
Such has not been the diseased state of our body poli-
tic, as to encourage a Tarquin, a Pisistratus, a Julius
Cgesar, or a Bonaparte, to seize upon the liberties of the
country. For, though the lust of power in all ages is the
same, the unsuccessful attempt of Aaron Burr shows, that
iWiftMifiifn I ~i
60 PRELIMINAllY REMARKS.
the state of society in the United States affords no faci-
lities, either to make despots, or to destroy the social
compact of the nation.
An improper apportionment of power among the civil
functionaries, a want of due energy in the organization of
government, together vv'itli ignorance and bad morals in
the people, constitute the materials which consolidate
and concenti-ate all power in one man, thei'eby vesting
him with uncontrollable command over the lives and
fortunes of all the citizens : — a state of society which
God forbid the free born sons of Ameiica should ever
realize !
The foregoing remarks we l^ave thought proper to pre-
mise, by way of replying to the prediction of certain Eu-
ropean politicians, that a separation of the Atlantic from
the western states will eventually take place. The pre-
diction of such an event, by those philosophers, must
have been grounded rather on the fate of republics, as
recorded in history, and the notions which have long pre-
vailed, that a republic could not be extended efficiently
over a large portion ef territory, — than from a critical
knowledge of tlie nature and operation of our federal
compact, and a comprehensive view of the state of society
in the United States.
But the present government of the United States pre-
sents a model, of which history gives us no example.^
Here are divers independent sovereignties, with powers
to legislate on all minor, local and domestic concerns,
and yet the citizens «f each state, whose laws they are
obliged to obey, remain subject also to tlie paramount
laws of the national legislature. A government thus
constituted, affords ample security against the violence
of party factions, (the precursors of disunion) as each
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 6^
From considering the constitution and fate of any other
epublic which has existed, no correct inferences can be
Irawn by way of reasoning from analogy, which are ap-
plicable to the United States. It is true, the Achean
lieague among the ancient Greeks, and the confederacies
of the Swiss Cantons, and Seven United Provinces, in
modern times, bore a remote resemblance to our national
compact. In some few points there was a distant like-
ness ; but, in the modes of thinking among the common
people, whose minds from infancy had been strongly im-
bued with republican principles of independence and
perfect equality — in the education of youth by common
schools — ^in the means of acquiring useful knowledge by
extensive commerce — by the art of printing — ^by the es-
tablishment of social libraries, accessible to all classes of
the comnmnity — ^by the circulation of pamphlets and
newspaper*— in the great variety of climate ; whereby
the states most remote are most closely connected by the
ties of commerce, mutually advantageous — and in the
cool deliberate good sense and political information, gen-
erally pervading all classes of the citizens, who view
with disgust, and as the harbingers of tyranny, all riotous
mobs and tumultuous assemblies, and attempts to sever
the union j— -in these prominent features which distinguish
our countrymen, there are no points of comparison be-
tween the American and any other republic of which his-
tory has transmitted any notice.
The great national and commercial privileges of thje
ocean are open, almost exclusively, to the inhabitants of
the east ; and an immense body of rich, wonderfully pro-
ductive interior lands, to the people of the west. The one
possesses the ships and the sailors ; the means of trans-
F
62 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
portation to foreign markets ; and the other, the abundant
produce ; each finding in a free commercial intercourse
(that effectually could be preserved not otherwise than
by living under the same laws) whereby mutual wants
can be supplied by mutual means ; all closely drawn *to
a harmonious union by the strongest ties of consanguini-
ty, early friendships and mercantile connexions. What
demon of discord can be so potent as to create motives
of disunion, and to dissolve these bands asunder? The
east by ploughing the ocean will protect the maritime
rights of the nation, without which the surplus pi'oduce
of the west would not be worth raising ; while the west
by ploughing the land, feed them ; furnish raw materials
for clothing ; and defend the frontiers. By* severing the
union, the physical strength of the whole is diminished.
Each section having a new enemy to contend with, the
more inveterate, from being an old friend ; a perpetual
source of hostilities is created ; a kind of social wars en-
sue, always the most distressing and destructive that
can be found in the annals of history.
We think it will not be romantic to predict that the
period is not far distant, when the United States and
the potent empire of Russia will be the two great master
nations of the world. If the extensive coast of Califor-
nia be ceded to the latter, we may, perhaps, without be-
ing taken for maniacs, hazard an opinion, that the peo-
ple of this western region will eventually be compell^
to defend themselves against the encroachments of that
gigantic power. Should this event happen after a dis-
union, how bitterly would posterity curse those progeni-
"tors who effected it ! But we will not anticipate so dis-
astrous an event. To conclude : — a government organ-i
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 63
ted as is that of the federal compact, is a grand politi-
al arch, cemented together by the love of liberty, de-
iving strength from its own ponderous weight ; whose
eystone is the federal union, which imparts combina-
ion and stability to the whole political edifice ; and will,
VQ, trust, like an ancient pyramid of Egypt, resist the
avages of time and the united eiforts of human skill
nd ambition to annoy it.
GIliOG^ATHlCAli ^ISLETC^E^.
Having, in our preliminary reinarks, treated of sub-
jects of a general nature, we proceed to give a more com-
pendious geographical description of the western country,
as delineated and parcelled off into separate states and
territories, by the acts of Congress.
The artificial boundaries of counties and districts we
shall not attempt to delineate, as they would occupy a
considerable space, to the exclusion of more useful mat-
ter, and their location can be much better understood
from a well executed map, than from any description in
words. Nor have we thought it would be useful or in-
teresting to insert the peculiar features or outlii\es of the
several state constitutions, nor other civil regulations,
which pertain to municipal policy. Customs, manners,
and the peculiarities which characterize local districts,
or classes of people, who inhabit the west, we shall not
present to our readers, as the settlements here are yet too
recent to have produced that assimilation of heterogeneous
character, which can be denominated national, or peculiar
to the people of any considerable portion of territory.
Having prescribed to ourselves the limits of a small
volume, on a subject which embraces a vast range of mul-
tifarious and important matter, we trust our readers will
not expect (to speak in the language of painters) more
OHIO. 66
from us than such a groupe of the most interesting ima-
ges, as can be thrown together upon a narrow canvass^ —
Thus limited to this contracted space, we have labored
in our Tocation to enrich it, with the zeal of a faithful
historian, and with all the minute, persevering drudgery
of a geographical philosopher.
. CHiio being the most easterly tract of which we propose
TO give g«ographic sketches, we shall commence with
that state, and proceed in course to make our remarks
on the western section of the, United States.
OHIO.
The state of Ohio is bounded on the north by Michi-
gan Territory, and lake Erie, which separate it from
Upper Canada; east by Pennsylvania and the Ohio
river ; south also by said river, which separates it from
Virginia and Kentucky ; and on the west by the state of
Indiana. It is situated between 38° SO" and 42° north
latitude, and between 4° S5" and 7° 47" west longitude,
from Washington city. It is 216 miles from east to west
and the same extent from north to south ; and contains
about 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres.
Face of the Country, Soil and Productions. — The in-
terior and northern parts, bordering on lake Erie, are
generally level, in some places marshy. Nearly one-
third oCthe eastern and southeastern parts of the state,
lying contiguous to the banks of the Ohio, is exceeding
hilly and broken. These hills, however, are too humble
and free of rocks, to be called mountains ; but their num-
ber is great, and they occupy a considerable space-
There are extensive tracts of bottom lands on the Ohio,
<ind its tributary streams, of wonderful fertility. On
m
66 OHIO. •
each siile of the Sckto, and of the two Miamies, are
found iargei' bodies of rich, level land, than in any other
part of the state. There are several extensive prairas,
particularly on the head waters of the Muskingum, and
the Scioto, and between the Scioto and the sources of
the two Miamies; on which prairas no timber grows,
except a few clumps of trees. Of the prairas, several
are flat and marshy, others are dry and elevated. The
latter are frequently called barrens, but are not so called
on account of their sterility, for they are oftgn fertile.
Low prairas yield large crops of coarse, wild gi-ass,
from two to five feet in lieight ;— rof which some kinds
are good fodder.
It is remarkable that the highest lands between the
rivers are the we test, and the tracts bordering on the
Avater courses are the dryest. Among the trees of the
forest, are oak of various kinds, maple, hickory, beech,
poplar, sycamore, ash, walnut, buckeye, clierry, &c.
Cultivated fruit trees of various kinds are produced.
Wheat, and the other small grains, and corn, flourish in
this soil — Of the latter, from 75 to 100 bushels have
sometimes been gathered; in one year from an acre, on
this rich bottom land.
Of the rivers within this state that flow into the Ohio,
the following are the principal :
The Muskingum rises within the tract Called the Con-
necticut Western Reserve, and flows in a serpentine,
southwesterly course across the counties of Stark, Tus-
carawas, Coshocton, Muskingum, Morgan, and Wash-
ington, into the Ohio, at Marietta, througli a mouth 250
yards wide. It is navigable with large batteaux to Cos-
hocton, above 100 miles in its course, and with small
cra^ more than 90 miles further, into a small lake ;
OHIO. ^ 67
from whence, by a portage of one mile, boats descend in
the river Cuyahoga, into lake Erie. At Zanesville, navi-
gation is materially obstructed by considerable falls,
which form valuable mill seats. This impediment is,
however, about being removed by a company, who are
auccessfully prosecuting a plan of a canal and locks
around tjje falls. To effect this purpose, the company
have been vested with banking powers. The main
branches to this river, are Licking, Wliite Woman and
Wills' cheeks, besides the principal stream, which, ab6ve
tjCoshocton, is called Tuscarawas. Tributaries of less
note are J^Yolf, Coal, Olive Qreen, Meigs, Salt, Jona-
thans, Wakitomika, Stillwater, Sugar, Connoten, Nim-
mishilten, and Indian creeks. The Muskingum, and
most of >its confluent, branches, are bordered by consi-
derable margins of rich land, notwithstanding a region
for nearly 80 miles in width, through whicii the river
flows, is hilly.
The Hockhocking rises near Columbus, and meander-
ing in a southeastwardly course, through a hilly country,
more than 80 miles, unites with the Ohio at Troy, 25 miles
below Marietta. This river is rarely exceeded (for its
size) in convenience for navigation : being compressed to
the narrow compass of about 50 yards, its waters are gen-
erally of a good depth. Seyen miles north of Lancaster,
this river exhibits a romantic prospect, its waters precipi-
tating over a stratum of rock, down a perpendicular
descerft, more than 40 feet. On these falls is a flour mill,
five stories high. With the exception of the lower falls,
of seven feet descent, and a few mill dams lately erected,
boats may ascend ^is river above 70 miles. Its branches
are Rush creek, Sunday, Monday, Margaret and Frede-
rick's creeks.
"^
68 OHIQ.
The Scioto takes its rise from sources within the lata*
Indian purchase, and uniting with the Whetstone, just
above Columbus, it joins the Ohio, by a mouth 150 yards
wide, between Portsmouth and Alexandria. Its general
direction, from within a few miles of the source, is nearly
south. The Whetstone branch rises in Richland county,
and is navigable, in high water, to Worthington, nine
miles. The Scioto, is navigable ISO miles. Its chief
tributaries are Big Walnut, Lower W^alnut and Salt
creeks, from the east; and Paint,'' Deer, Darby,. Mill and
Bokes creeks from the west. On tlie east bank of this
river, five miles above Cglumbus, are extensive quarries
of free stone, and marble capable of a high polish.
The Little Miami takes its rise from the southwest-
ei'nly part of Madison county, and coasting, in a south-
west direction, more than 70 miles, over Clark, Green,
Warren and Hamilton counties, commingles with the
Ohio, seven miles above Cincinnati. To this no stream
is equal, in the state, for mill seats ; on which are already
nearly 40 mills, of which two are for the manufacture of
paper. , Its chief tributary .streams are Shawnee, Obannon,
Turtle, Todd's Fork, Cesar's and Massie's creeks, and '
East-Fork on the eastern side ; and Sugar and Beaver
creeks on the west. It is rare that boats attempt to ascend
this rough stream, whose impediments to navigation are
converted into so many valuable mill seats. About 100
miles from the mouth are falls on this river, supposed to
be equal to 200 feet.
The main streams jlowing into the Big Miami within
the state of Ohio: — On the west is Mad river, which
finds its source in the north part of Logan county, across
' which it leads a southwestern course through Champaign j
(by Urbana) parts of Green and Montgomery counties.
OHIO. 69
and after meandering more than 50 miles in a rapid and
rippling current, falls into the Miami just above Day-
ton. On the west is Loramie^s Creekt rising in the
late Indian purchase, and running southwardly to Lor-
amie's station, thence southeastwardly into the Miami
just above' Piqua. It meanders to an extent exceeding
§0 miles and is navigable 30 miles up with batteaux. —
The Southwest Branch or Stillwater commences in Dark
county, and proceeding 50 miles southeastwardly, emp-
ties nearly opposite the mouth of Mad river, in the
county of JMontgomery. There are several other less
Consider^le streams flowing into the Miami, which our
limits will not permit us to notice.
The principal streams that flow into Lake Erie in the
state of Ohio : — Cuyahoga river rises in the central
' parts of Geauga county, whence it runs half its length
into the western parts of Portage county j thence turns
N. W. into Cuyahoga county and enters Lake Erie at
Cleaveland. It is navigable a coiisiderable distance, and
is 60 miles long.
SandusJcy river, rising within Richland county, runs
northwestwardly about £0 miles, to Upper Sandusky ;
thence northwardly,*50 miles, into Sandusky bay. The
Stream is generally rapid, but navigable at a middle
height of water. Among its branches are Tyemochtee,
Honey and Wolf creeks. It has been long conjectured
ihat the vi'aters of the Scioto might be connected with
the head waters of Sandusky by a canal, there being a
portage only of four miles.
The Maumet rises in the northeast angle of Indiana,
and flows northwestwardly into the western extremity
Of lak6 Erie. Within 33 miles df the. mouth, com-
mcnces shoals and rapids, which are continued, to the
70 OHIO.
obstruction of navigation, to within 18 miles of the lake.
The width pf the Maumee^ is from 150 to 200 yards.
Its principal tributary streams, are the St. Joseph and
the St. Mary's, which unite to form the Maumee at Fort
Wayne, the Great and Little Auglaize, (the former in-
terlocking with the head waters of the Miami- and Tun-
ing north) flow into the Maumee just below Detroit.
Connecticut Reserve, or New-Connecticut, is bounded
on the north by lake Erie, on the east by Pennsylvania,
on the south by the parallel of 41° north latitude, and on
the west by the meridian of 5° 49" west longitude. Its
extent is 120 miles from east to west, and about 52 miles
from north to south. The. whole tract consists of three*
millions of acres ; of which, on the west end, 500,000
acres are called Fire Lands, having been granted by the
state of Connecticut as a donation to such citizens as
had sustained losses by conflagration, particularly by the '
burning of the towns of New-London, Fairfield and Nor-
walk, by the British arfny, in the revolutionary war. —
The first settlers on those lands emigrated from Massa-
chusetts and Connecticut. The ground on which the
government of the latter state founded their claim, was
the charter of Charles II, by which, ^ri 1662, was granted
to the then celony of Connecticut, all lands included be-
tween the parallels of 41° and 42°, and from Providence
Plantations on the east to the Pacific ocean on the west/
with the exception of the colonies of New-York and
Pennsylvania. After the United States became sove-
reign. Congress and Connecticut compromised the inter-
fering claims — the former having relinquished to the lat-
ter their right of soil to the said tract of 3,000,000 acres;
and the latter to the former all right of soil to the residue,
as well as claim of jurisdiction to the whole.
OHIO. 71
Virginia Military Lands are situated bet^veen the
Liltle Miami and the Scioto. The charter to that state
made by the king of England, included lands west of the
Ohio, between lines of equal latitude to the northern and
southern lines of Virginia. The above described lands,
the right of soil to which she reserved, were granted to
her troops for revolutionary services — ^Virginia relin-
quishing to the United States all other lands west of the
Ohio, in the same latitude. Of these lands, the middle
and northern parts are of an excellent quality.
Symmes^s Patent is situated north of the Ohio, between
the two Miamies. For this tract application was made
to the general government by John Cleves Symmes, of
the state of New-Jersey, in the year 1787; but a patent
was not obtained from the President until 1794. The
grant included 311,682 acres, of which 6^,100 were re-
reserved for public uses, as follows: — Around Fort
Washmgton, in Cincinnati, 15 acres ; a complete town-
ship, for a public seminary, to be located so as to embrace
an entire township nearest the mouth of Licking rivei*;
section 16 in each township, for the use of schools ; sec-
tion 29 for religious purposes, and sections 8, 1 1 and 26
for the future disposal of Congress. After this deduction
there remained to the patentee a good title for no more
than 248,582 acres, for wliich he paid the price of two-
thirds of a dollar per acre;
Within three miles of Cincinnati, lands of a good
quality self from g50 to S150 per acre ; and from glO to
gSO between the distance of three and twelve miles. —
Near the chief villages of the Miami country, the price
of land is from glO to 5540 per acre."
^2
OHIO.
JVo. of Population in
Counties.
Towns. ISiO and 1815.
Chief Towns.
Adams
9
9,434
10,410
West Union
Ashtabula
3,200
Jefferson
Athens
4
4,271
3,960
Athens
Belmont
11
11,097
12,200
St. Clairsville
Brown
Ripley
Butler
9
11,150
11,890
Hamilton
Champaign
9
6,303
10,460
Urbana
Glark
Springfield
Clermont
8
9,965
12,240
Williamsburgh
Clinton
S
2,674
4,600
Wilmington
Columbiana
17
10,878
13,600
New-Lisbon
Coshocton
3,000
Coshocton
Cuyahoga
4
1,495
2,500
Cleveland
Dark
1,500
Greenville
Delaware
7
2,000 ^
5,000
Fairfield
Fairfield,
15
4,361
13,666
New-Lancaster
Fayette
4
1,854
3,700
Washington
Franklin
8
3,486
• 6,800
Franklinton
Gallia
12
4,181
6,000
Galliopolis
Geauga
8
2,917
3,000
Chardin
Guernsey
9
3,051
4,800
Cambridge
Green
6
5,870
8,000
Xenia
Hamilton
11
15,258
18,700
Cincinnati
Harrison
♦7,300
Cadiz
Highland
7
5,760
7,300
Hillsborough
Huron
1,500
Huron
Jackson
Jackson
Jefferson
15
17,260
15,000
Steubenville
Knox
5
181 :
2,149
3,000
Mount Vernon
165,814
193,326
OHIO.
73
^N'o.of
Population in
Counties. Towns
. 1810 and 1815.
Chief Toiensi
Bro't.for'wd. 181 165,814
193,326
Licking
7
3,852
6,400
Newark
Logan
Belville
Madison
6
1,603
2,100
New-London
Medina
Mecca
Miami
6
3,941
5,910
Troy
Monroe
• 1,200
Woodsfield
Montgomery
7
7,722
13,700
Dayton
Morgan
Muskingum
11
10,036
11,200
Zanesville
Perry
Somerset
Pickaway
10
7,1^4
9,260
Circleville
Pike
Piketon
Portage
9
2,995
6,000
Ravenna
Preble
7
3,304
^ 5,509
Eaton
Richland
3,900
Mansfield
Ross
16
15,514
18,000
Chillicoth«
Scioto
9
3,599
3,870
Portsmouth
Stark
7
2,734
6,625
Canton
Trumbull
19
8,671
10,000
Warren
Tuscarawas
3,045
3,880
New-Philadelpliia
Warren
5
9,925
12,000
Lebanon
Washington
12
5,991
3,800
Marietta
Wayne
320 i
7,*100
Wooster
230,760
324,070
The data for ascertaining the increase of population
for the five first years after the census of 1810, which
was 230,760, has been obtained from the number of
qualified voters in the state, which amounted, in 1815,
to 64,814, ty multiplying that sum by 5, it being suppo»
G
74 OHIO.
sed that the number of voters composed the one-fifth
part of the whole population. This mode of estimating
the increase, shows the population, in 1815, to be 324,0 rO/
After the same mode of calculating, 1819, the present
year, would exhibit a population of about 410,000. It
is however believed, that the next census will show the
actual population to have been considerably under rated.
Such an accumulation of human beings, within the
short period of thirty-one years, congregated in a per-
fectly wilderness territory, without any motives created
from public or private bounty, other than the resources
af a country in a rude state of nature, is not perhaps to
be found in the history of man, unless we except some
other states in the west.
PRINCIPAL, TOWNS.
The design of our publication will not permit us to in-
dulge our readers with a particular description of all the
numerous flourishing towns within the state. In a gene- ,
ral view we have exhibited the names of the several
towns, which are the seats of justice for the respective
counties to which they are attached. We shall now
proceed to present a particular view of those towns only
which are most considerable fur population, commerce
and manufactures.
Columbus, the capital of the state of Ohio, is on the
east side of the Scioto river, Franklin county, within 20
miles of the centre of the state. The site is on a beau-
tiful rise of ground^ just below the confluence of the
Whetstone and Scioto. The in-lots 62^ by 87i feet
each, were sold at public auction in June, 1812 — being
then covered with the first growth of forest trees ; since
which period have been erected nearly 300 houses, which
are occupied by more than 1500 inhabitants. Four or
/ OHIO. 75
ive English schools, besides a respectable seminary for
roung ladies, are established. A post office, 10 mercantile
itores, a bank, two printing offices, and a market house,
ire occupied. There is a state house, a building for the
)ublic offices, and a penitentiary, all of brick. The
itate house is constructed on an elegant model, and fin-
shed in a handsome style. It occupies a space of 50
>y 75 feet upon the ground, and is elevated two lofty
tories high, fronting the west. On the centre of the
oof is erected a neat belfiy, terminating in an elegant
ipire, which rises 106 feet from the ground. Adjoining
he balcony are handsome railed walks, commanding a
;omplete prospect of the town and adjacent country,
vhich affords a delightful rural scenery. The public
iffices are built on aline with the state house, on the
lorth, occupying on the ground, a space of 120 by 25 feet,
md are constructed two stories high ; on the west side
if the public square, which is located in the centre of
he town, being an area of ten acres, reserved for public
ise. The penitentiary stands at the southwest corner
)f the town, (being inclosed by a high stone wall) and
vas prepared for convicts in 1815. Columbus is 60
niles v\'estof Zanesville, 114 northwest of Marietta, 28
iom Lancaster, 45 north of Chillicothe, 90 north of
ortsmouth, and 115 northeastwardly from Cincinnati,
nd is in north latitude 39° 57' and west longitude 6°.
Chillicothe. is pleasantly situated on the west bank of
he Scioto, 45 miles by land and 70 by water, from the
uouth. It is surrounded by a fertile plain, containing
ibout 10,000 acres. The settlement of this town com-
nenced in 1796 ; it now contains nearly 400 houses,
md 3,000 inhabitants. There are three printing offices,
yeach of which a weekly newspaper is published, two
76 OHK).
banks, SO mercaniile stores, one book and one apotheca-
ry store, four cotton spinning factories, one driven bj
water and the others by horse power, a rope walk and a
large steam mill. In the vicinity are an oil, fulling, pa-
per, and several saw, and excellent merchant flour mills*;
The public buildings consist of Presbyterian, Seceder*
and Methodist meeting houses, an academy, courthouse,
jail, and a large market house, all of which (except a
stone court house) are built with brick. The streets cross
each other at right angles. The summit of a hill on the
west, of an abrupt ascent to the perpendicular height of
SOO feet, presents a most delightful view of the town,
river and surrounding country. This town is distant
45 miles south from Columbus, 34 southwest from New-
Lancaster, 70 from Zanesville, 73 northeast from Maj'S-
yille, and 93 east by north from Cincinnati.
Steubenville, the seat of justice for Jefferson county,
stands on the bank of the Ohio. The streets intersect
each other at right angles. The town was commenced in
1798 — is surrounded by a fertile tract of land, laying
on both sides of the Ohio river — in 1810 contained only
SOO, but at present, (1819) more than 2,200 inhabitants j
has nearly 500 houses, three churches, an elegant market
house, with a town house in the second story ; a woolen
factory, a grist mill, paper mill, and cotton factory, all
driven by steam power. There are a printing office,
issuing a weekly newspaper, two banks, an academy,
27 stores, 16 public inns, and an air found ery. Distant
38 miles southwest fronv Pittsburgh, 25 northeasterly
from St. Clairsville, and 150 east by north from Columbus.
Zanesville is on the east branch of the Muskingum,
at the falls, whereon various mills are erected, and others
are in preparation to be established ; including several
OHIO. Tt
valuable saw mills, an oil mill, nail machine, and woolen
factory. This town is the seat of justice for Muskin-
gum county, and contains a neat court house, in which
are convenient apartments for the public offices ; 21
mercantile stores, two glass factories, two printing offi-
ces, and 330 houses, many of which are in a neat, elegant
style. The population is about 1500. Two substantial
bridges are extended over the river opposite the town,
the lowest of which is a handsome specimen of architec-
ture, connecting Zanesville with Putnam. The facili-
ties for promoting manufactories by water machinery,
at Zanesville,' are very great. This town is 18 miles
from Wheeling, 61 from Marietta, 72 from Chillicothe,
and 58 from Columbus.
Putnam, on the west bank of the Muskingum, oppo-
site to Zanesville, contains several neat brick dwelling
houses, a convenient stone building for an academy,
several mercantile stores, mechanic shops and millsir-*
The number of inhabitants is about 400.
Marietta, the seat of justice for Washington county,
is one of the &'st settled towns in the state. It occupies
a charming site on the bank of the Ohio, just above the
mouth of the Muskingum; contains a large, elegant
Presbyterian meeting house, an academy, the public
county buildings, a printing office, a bank, about 20 mer-
cantile stores and 90 dwelling houses. For seven years
prior to the embargo, ship building here was prosecuted
to a considerable extent. — But the commercial embarras-
ments which immediately succeeded, in a manner ex-
tinguished the mercantile enterprise of those New-Eng-
land emigrants for a long period. Of late, however, the
spirit of ship building begins to revive. In 1816, a com-
mercial exporting company was formed, who sent round
78 OHIO.
to Boston a small vessel. The overflowing of the river,
which occasionally happens in high water, to this town,
has sensibly affected its prosperity and checked its
growth. Tlie distributing post-office is kept here. The
distance from Washington city is Sl6 miles west by
north, 93 east by north from Chillicothe, from Cincinnati
186, and southwesterly from Columbus 109 miles.
JVew-Lisbon, the seat of justice for Columbiana coun-
ty, is situated on the middle fork of Little Beaver, 14
miles from the nearest point on the Ohio. It contains
a handsome court house and jail, a bank, two brick meet-
ing houses, post office, a printing office, and'a public libra-
j-j. In 1805, were only seven dwelling houses, in Jan.
1817, were 130, of which six are licenced public houses,
and 9 mercantile stores, employing a capital of 65,000
dollars. In the vicinity is a furnace, four merchant and
four saw mills, a paper mill, an extensive woolen factory,
and another erecting, a fulling mill, and carding machine ;
a glass factory, an academy, and a third meeting house,
are ampng the contemplated improvements about to be
prosecuted in this flourishing town.
St. Clairsville, the seat of justice for Belmont county,
stands on elevated ground — ^the surrounding country
hilly, but fertile. Within the town is a court house,
jail, and market house; the Friends, Methodists and
Presbyterians have each a meeting house ; there is also
a printing office, a bank, 15 stores, and about 700 inha-
bitants. Through this town the great road leads west-
wardly from Wheeling, which is 1 1 miles distant.
Galliopolis'iA pleasantly situated on the bank of the
Ohio, in Gallia county, of which it is the seat of justice.
The public buildings are a court house, jail, and an aca-
demy. It has 75 dwelling houses, and 8 stores. Near
OHIO. 79
[le towa are grape vineyards, to the extent of six acres,
rom which considerable quantities of wine are made
early. This town was first settled by French emigrants,
lany of whom, beTore they became inured to the climate,
tere grievously afflicted by the summer fevers, which
roved mortal to many of the inhabitants ; and others
emoving from discouragement, left remaining but a
mall portion of the French population.
Circleville, situated on the east bank of the Scioto, is
he seat of justice for Pickaway county. It was laid oft'
1810, in one of the ancient circular fortifications,
rom which circumstance it was named. The town plat
ncompasses two old forts — one square, and the other
ircular. The round fort consists of two circular, but
larallel walls, about 50 feet apart. There was but one
assage into the circular fort, which was in the east side,
on\ the square one ; the latter joining upon the outer
rcle, had seven avenues, beside that which leads into
le circle, being open about 12 feet wide at each of the
our angles and in the centre of each side : the perpen-
licutar height of each wall exceeded 20 feet. The town
ontains 9 mercantile stores, and various mechanic shops.
The surrounding country, to a cTOsiderable extent, in-
ludes the rich Pickaway plains.
J^ew-Lancaster, the county seat for Fairfield, is a flou-
ishing town, situated near the source of the Hockhock-
ag, on the road from Zanesville to Chillicothe, and 28
niles from Columbus. Within the town are 12 mercan-
ile stores, a handsome court house and jail, a Methodist
neeting house, a bank, an English and a German print-
ng office, issuing weekly papers, and a market house ;
here are about 150 houses, with a population of nearly
00 inhabitants.
so OHIO.
Urbana,j^he county seat for Champaign, is situated on
the waters of Mad river. It contains a printing; office,
court house, jail, bank, Methodist meeting house, 9 mer-
cantile stores, 120 houses and 600 inhabitants. Distant
44 miles west by north from Columbus.
Xenia, the county seat of Green, situated on Shawnee
creek, three miles east from the Little Miami, contains a
court house, jail, an academy, two houses for public
worship, a printing office, 1 1 stores, and about 600 inha-
bitants. Distant 54 miles south westward ly from Colum-
bus.
Dayton, the seat of justice for Montgomery county, is
delightfully situated on the eastern bank of the Great
Miami, just below its confluence with Mad river. It
contains a court house, jail, an academy, a Presbyterian
and a Methodist meeting house, a printing office, bank,
15 mercantile stores, 3 apothecary shops, and more than
100 dwelling houses. In the vicinity several valuable
mill seats are artificially formed, by a canal excavated
around the town, so as to conduct the water from Madi
river into the Miami below it. This town is in the cen-
tre of a large body of good land.
Lebanon, the seat op^stice for Warren county, is four
miles west of the Little Miami, between two branches of
Turtle creek. It contains a court house, school house,
a Baptist and a Methodist meeting house, all built with
brick, and a stone jail. There are two market houses,
a bank, a printing office, aild a good social library. The
adjacent counti-y is excellent land.
Cincinnati is situated in the county of Hamilton, 21
miles above the mouth of the Great Miami, 122 above
Louisville, 465 below Pittsburgh by water, and SOD by
land, 85 north of Lexington, 93 west by soutli fiom Cbil-
OHIO. 81
Hcothe, 115 southwest from Columbus, in 39° 6' north
latitude, and 7° 24' west longitude. The population iu
1810 was 2,540; in 1815, 6,500; and in August, 1819*
was ascertained by actual enumeration to contain 5,362
males and 4,467 females, being 9,829 white inhabitants,
beside 205 males and 191 females of color — in the whole
J 0,225 inhabitants. The number of dwelling houses in
1815 was 650, and the whole number of buildings 1,070.
In August, 1819, the buildings of all descriptions, brick,
stone and wood, from one to four stories high, exceeded
2,000. This town was laid out nearly according to the
pfan of the city of Philadelphia. The situation is esteem-
ed one of the most pleasant on the Ohio. The upper
part of the town, which embraces nearly two-thirds of
the houses, is elevated about 50 feet higher than the bot-
tom, next the river ; has an extensive area (much of which
is unoccupied) and commands a romantic view of the
high lands which surround the town. Cincinnati con-
tains an elegant court house, of brick, 62 by 56 feet on
the ground, with two lofty stories ; 3 spacious brick mar-
ket houses ; 4 banks, including a branch of the U. S.bank ;
a Lancastrian Seminary, for the accommodation of which
is erected a handsome edifice, consisting of two oblong
wings, 80 feet deep, connected in the form of an H by a
building SO by 50 feet, which contains the stair cases
leading ta the second story — .calculated to accommodate
1,100 scholars ; a public library of 1,400 volumes ; 12
places for public worship, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Methodist,
I Baptist, 1 Episcopal, 1 Friends, 1 German Lutheran,
1 Roman Catholic, 1 New-Jerusalem, and 1 for people of
color ; 4 printing offices, two of which issue a newspaper
weekly, and one semi-weekly ; a steam saw mill ; a steam
grist mill, 85 by 62 feet, of 9 stories, 110 feet higli; 9.
83 OHIO.
woolen manufactory, a glass house, a sugar refinery, two '
breweries, two founderies, a private and a public museum,
called the " Western Museum," the latter designed more
specially as a depository for the various specimens of
natural curiosities peculiar to the western country. The
funds of the Lancastrian Seminary have lately been in-
creased by a subscription of g30,000, which by an act of
the legislature is erected into a University, where all the
branches of education, as in other like institutions, are
taught. Cincinnati, which continues to flourish, is the
most populous and commercial town, excepting New-
Orleans, west of the Allegany mountains. In every spe-
cies of manufacturing, it is exceeded only by Pittsburgh.
There is perhaps no town in the world where the build-
ing of steam boats is conducted on so large a scale ;—
there having been completed here, both in wood work
and iron niachinery, fifteen steam boats within twenty
months, of which some exceeded 400 tons burden. The
adjacent country, which chiefly supplies the markets of
Cincinnati, lies between the two Miamies ; and in point
of health, good water, natural fertility of soil, and mild-
ness of climate, combines as many means of cheap and
good living, as, perhaps, any considerable tract in North
America.
For the gratification of our curious readers, we sub-
join the local positions of some of the prmcipal forts in
the northern part of the state, as they became objects of
enquiry, in remarks on military opei'ations.
Fort Defiance, an important military post, formed
at the junction of the Auglaize and Mauinee rivers, dis-
tant 50 miles southwest from Fort Meigs.
Fort Loramies, derives its name from the old station
of a man so called j is on the head waters of the Great
OHIO. 83
Miami, and one boundary f)oint referred to in the Green-
ville treaty.
Fart Meigs, erected in 1813, on the southeastern
bank of the Maumee, a few miles from the mouth, at the
lower rapids of the river, distant southerly from Detroit,
70 miles. This fort sustained a siege against the British
and Indians, in April, 1813, until 5th May following,
when the garrison, joined by a reinforcement from Ken-
tucky, made a valiant sortie, and driving the enemy be-
fore them, raised the siege. On this occasion Major
Amos Stoddard, an enlighted, scientific man, lost his
lift.
Fort Recovery, a fort established by General WUyne,
notoriods for the disastrous defeat by the Indians, of
the Western Army, under the command of General
St. Clair, in the year 1791, is situated 23 miles north-
wardly of Fort Loramies, on the boundary line of the
state of Ohio.
Fort Greenville, erected in the early settlement of the
country, is within the limits of Dark county, a few miles
east of the western boundary of the state. There was
concluded in 1795, the celebrated Indian treaty with
General Wayne, after his victory over the natives.—
This spot and occasion is memorable for the peace and
security the treaty obtained for extensive frontier settle-
ments, whom the hostilities of the savages had for years
before compelled to remain in forts, and to arm them-
selves with weapons as they labored in the fields, or tra-
velled in the woods. It is believed that neither of the
above forts are now occupied by garrisons.
Boundary Line, an appellation given to the southern
boundary of territory acquired from the Indians by the
teeaty of Greenville, in 1795. It commences at the most
84 OHIO.
northern point in the county #f Tuscarawas, on the river
of that name ; thence runs a west by south course above
150 miles, to Fort Loramies, and from thence in a north-
westwardly course 21 miles to Fort Recovery.-
»5 Purchase from {lie Indians, of lands in the north-
west part of the state, amounting to 4,000,000 acres, was
made in 1818. It is bounded on the north by the Mau«,
mee and lake Erie, by Indiana and the St. Mary on the
west, and on the east and south by Gen, Wayne's boun-
dary line, Upper Sandusky and Dark county. This tiact
is part rolling and part level, and in some places marshy.
On the St. Mary the lands ai-e delightfully situated. A
considerable portion of the whole is heavily timbered, of
which the growth is sugar maple, black and whitC walnut,
various species of oak, black and white mulberry, beech,
buckeye, box elder, elm, sassafras, crab apple, pa^vpaw,
lynn, sycamore, cotton wood, and some other kinds ;—
there are also divers species of wild plumbs and grapes.
The territory is generally supplied witli good water, and
streams convenient for mill seats ; several streams flow
through the country into lake Erie. The most part of
the soil is deep and strong, and well adapted for grazing
and meadow grounds. In several parts fertile prairas
and woods are conveniently intermixed. By men well
acquainted with the geography of the western country,
the above described tract is esteemed as valuable, either
for cultivation or commerce, as any portion of the same
extent in the state.
Agricultural productions. — Indian corn, wheat, rye,
oats and barley are the principal. The first grows best
in rich calcareous soils, which have sometimes produced
110 bushels per acre; but 45 may be considered a fair
Average for all parts of the state. Wheat, of which iboirt
OHIO. 85
22 bushels per acre may be considered an average crop,
is found to flourish generally. More than 40 bushels
have occasionally been gathered from an acre. The
following may be considered medium crops per acre :
rye 25, oats 35, and barley SO.
Of the Fruit Trees, most kinds grow luxuriantly.
Apples, pears, peaches, cherries and plumbs are common,
and of a good quality. But vernal frosts have often
blasted the fruit. An experiment has riot been made on
the wine grape in this state, on a large scale, except at
Galliopolis, where the vine from the Cape of Good Hope
has succeeded well. The wine, however, is much in-
ferior to that made at the Cape from the same species.
Culinary Vegetables are raised in great perfection, and
in most places require no manure to produce good crops."
The soil is generally well adapted to the tobacco plant,
which, however, as in all the western states, where sla-
very is not permitted, is but little cultivated. Consid-
erable quantities of cotton have, in favorable seasons^,
formerly been raised in some parts ; but the late vernal
and early autumnal frosts render the crops too precari-
ous to be an object of cultivation.
Of the Herbaceous Indigenous productions, trees, and
shrubberies, of natural growth, divers species may be eol^
lected from the forests, which are useful in medicine and
the arts ; such as the Actea racemosa, or squaw root,
Virginia snake root, Indian turnip, wild hops, red cedar,
Spanish oak, sassafras, spice wood, gensang, prickly ash,
columbo, lobelia, and other various kinds of herbaceous
plants.
Trade and Manufactures. — Besides domestic manu-
factures, considerable quantities of cotton yarn, cotton
nd woolen cloths are made at the large- factories, in
H
S6 OHIO.
some of the commercial towns. Horses, cattle, swine,
whiskey, and flour are the principal articles of exporta-
tion. By estimation, nearly 50,000 swine were driven
from this state over the Alleganies to market,, in the
autumn of 1810 ; and during the late war, the army was
largely supplied from Ohio, at Detroit, and other mili-
tary posts, on the lakes. The total amount of real pro-
perty in this state, as revised by the principal board of as-
sessors, in 1815, was valued at §61,347,216.
Literary Institutions and Common Schools.— (^uo
enjoys, in common witli the states of the west, the bounty
of the general government, providing permanent funds
for literary institutions and common schools. Three
townships, six miles square, have been granted out of the
public lands, in this state, for seminaries of learning ; and
for the use of common schools, one mile square, near the
centre of each township, to the inhabitants of the same ;
that is, the one thirty-sixth part of the whole. Of the
three townships, two have been appropriated by the legis-
lature of the state to the use of what is denominated the
Ohio University, to which they have granted a charter,
conferring the powers and privileges usually appurtenant
to such institutions. The seat of this institution is loca-
ted at Athens, in the county of Athens, on the tract ap-
propriated for its use. A spacious edifice of brick is>
erecting, on an elevated spot, being a peninsula, formed
by a large bend of the Hockhocking, commanding a ro-
mantic view of the meanderings of tlie river and the sur-
rounding country. The town is located in the northeast
of the public grant, which is 6 by 12 miles in extent
It is a healthy and pleasant situation, containing about
50 houses, including a court house and other county buil-
dings. As yet, only an academic school, kept in a small
OHIO. 87
two story brick building, has been established, which is
intended, eventually, as a place of previous education
for the University. The neat annual revenue proceed-
ing from the college funds, at present, is about g2,300.—
Two other Universities, the Mjami, and Cincinnati, have
been also incorporated by the legislature. To the for-
mer is appropriated the funds arising from Oxford town-
ship, in Butler county, being the remaining part of the
donation by Congress, for the use of public seminaries iitf
this state. This township, which lays on the western
boundary of the state, near the southwest angle, is cover-
ed with a rich, productive soil ; of which, the greater part
is leased for 99 years. The neat annual income is said
to exceed 183,500. The trustees have erected one wing
of a building, wliich, when completed, will make a spa-
cious, convenient edifice. The learned languages, and
the several branches of academical education, are here
taught ; but the accomodations are yet inadequate ta
assume the dignity and administer the instruction of an
University institution. The funds which endow Cincin-
nati University, consist wholly of private donations, for
which see CincinnatL
, KENTUCKY
is bounded north by the rivei- Ohic, which separates
!( from the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois ; east by
Virginia ; south by Virginia and Tennessee, and on tlie
west by the Mississippi. This state is situated between
36° SO' and 39° 10' north latitude, and between 8° and
15° west longitude j in length 300 miles, and from 40
to 180 broad, rontaining 42,000 square miles.
Soil, face of the country, Sfc.' — The soil is various,
both in quality and appearance. It is generally strong
and durable. There are, however, considerable tracts
occupied by dry, rocky mountains, and sterile barrens.
Much of the country embracing the head waters of tlic
Great Sandy, Kentucky and Cumberland rivers, is too
rough and mountainous for cultivation. The soil gene-
rally is either red, tiri^ed with black, or of an ash color.
Contiguous to the Ohio, fqr the space of about 20 miles
wide, a large portion of the country is broken, but the
soil produces good tobacco and wheat, except where the
iiills are so steep as to be much washed by rains. On
the margin of the Ohio are many rich bottoms, which
though partly inundated by the spring freshets, produce
exceeding large crops of Indian corn, hemp and tobacco.
Wheat does not succeed well on the low bottoms, the
fertility of inundated bottoms being generally too pow-.
erful for that crop, unless intermixed with a considerable
portion of sand.
KENTUCKY. 89
The moat valuable tract of great extent, in Kentucky,
lays between the hill country on the Ohio, Green river
and the eastern counties, being about 150 miles long, from
50 to 100 broad, and includes the counties of Mason,
Fleming, Montgomery, Clark, Bourbon, Fayette, Scott,
Harrison, Franklin, Woodford, Mercer, Jessamine, Ma-
dison, Garrard, Logan, Casey, Lincoln, Washington and
Green — ^intersected by Little Sandy, Licking, Kentucky
and Salt rivers. The soil of most of this large space is
of an excellent quality, and the surface is free of cold,
wet, flat lands, or pestilential marshes ; and is gently
waving, presenting to the eye of the spectator delight-
some prospects.
The growth of forest trees is not commonly large, but
they are straight and tall, not exceeding more than from
20 to 30 to the acre. Within three or four miles of soma
of the principal streams the soil is hard and sterile, and
not well watered. The hills are shaded with oak, ches-
nut, hickory, gum, elm and poplar ; and the valleys with
beech, sugar maple, elm, poplar, black walnut and hack-
berry. Many trees on the low vallies are of an extra-
ordinary size, particularly the sycamore and poplar.
Between the RoUin's fork of Salt and Green rivers is
a region about forty miles square, mostly cultivated, and
covered by a soil suitable for tillage, meadow ground and
pasturage, well apportioned for the purposes of agricul-
ture. Of like surface and quality of soil are tl/ie lands
bordering on the waters of the Great and Little Barren
rivers ; where oak, chesnut, hickory, gum, lynn, poplar
and cucumber prevail.
Knobs, covered with oak, are scattered rather profusely
over the counties of Pulaski, Wayne, Rock Castle, Knox,
Cumberland, Warren, Livingston and Christian. Of this
n2
90 KENTUCKY.
tract, the legislature in 1800, made a grant of 400 acres
to each actual settler, the land being then considered of
little value. Experience has notwithstanding shown the
soil very productive in grain, and the situation advanta-
geous for raising stock.
The lands in the southwest part of the state, east and
north of Cumberland river, A^'atered by Green and Barren
rivers, about one hundred miles in extent, consisting of
a tract called the Barrens, a few years since exhibited
the appearance of a beautiful praira, destitute of timben/
A young growth of various kinds of trees now covers
this champaign space, which continues as formerly to be
overspread with grass, and a great variety of plants,
which during the spring and summer months are adorned
with beautiful flowers of every hue. The soil is fertile,
being a mixture of clay, loam and sand. Through this,
which is called the Green river country, is a chain of
conical hills. Here is a most stupendous cavern, called
Mammoth Cave. It is said to be eight or ten miles in
length, with numerous avenues and windings. Earth is
so strongly impregnated with nitre, in various oaves of
Kentucky, as to yield, on refining, 50 per cent, of the lat-
ter — large quantities of which are manufactured foi- ex-
portation. In some places the earth has been excavated
by the rivers so deep, as to form frightful precipices and
gulphs ; and the rivers are confined between banks of
solid limestone, 300 feet in perpendicular height, sur-
moujited with a precipitous and almost inaccessible as-
ceiit four times as high, presenting an awfully sublime
spectacle to the beholder. A substratum of solid lime-
stone, from three to fifteen feet below the surface, and in
many places so thick as to render the digging of wells
impracticable, extends over the greater part of the state.
KENTUCKY. 91
[arble of an excellent quality is found in abundance on
le banks of the Kentucky river.
First settlements. — The tract, constituting Kentucky,
'as formerly claimed as well by the Northern, or Six
rations, as by the Cherokees. As the title could not
settled by compromise, they resorted to hostilities to
ecide it by combat. Henc© these lands became both
le cause and the theatre of a war, terribly destructive,
i^liich caused them to be called, in the language of the
borigines, by a name which signified Bloody Grounds.—-
The province of Virginia, in 1768, at the treaties of
ancaster and Stanvj^ix, purchased the claim of the Six
Nations ; as did Col. R. Henderson that of the Chero-
ees, in 1775. The state of Virginia, although they con-
idered the purchase of Henderson void, it being an in-
erference against the law of the state, quieted him by a
rant of twelve miles square, at the mouth of Green
iver. The Indians, notwithstanding all their claims to
ands in Kentucky had been relinquished, continually
larassed the inhabitants, from the first settlement, which
was made by Col. Daniel Boone, from North Carolina, in
1775 ; he having four or five years before that time tho-
roughly explored the country. In 1777, the whole terri-
tory of Kentucky, containing then a considerable popu-
lation, was erected into a county of Virginia. At this
period the inhabitants, while subjected to all the devas-
tations and barbarities of savage warfare, resolved on the
bold expedient of pursuing the enemy to his towns, and
attacking him in his possessions. And putting themselves
under that brave and enterprising officer. Gen. Clark, in
1778, they conquered and took possession of all the In-
dian and French settlements from the Ohio to the Illinois.
The Gen. leaving behind him a sufficient garrison, pro-
Mi^..L
93 KENTUCKY.
ceeded without delay to Vincennes, against which post,
although strongly foi-tified and well supplied with artil-
lery, he brought his little army — inferior in numbers and
armed with rifles only — and compelled the enemy to sur-
render. Having established a garrison at the latter plafce,
and induced most of the Wabash and Illinois tribes to
abandon the British, and join the American standard — •
that gallant ofiicer, returning to Kentucky, and putting
himself at the head of her militia, conducted two success-
ful expeditions against the Shawnee, Delaware and Min-
go tribes of Indians, defeated their combined forces in a
general engagement, and burnt a'hd laid waste the most
of their towns, which were situated on the Miami and
Scioto rivers. Although by these successful enterpriseA
great protection was afforded to the country, the flames
of savage warfare were not extinguished by the treaty of
Paris in 1783 — they continued to rage on the frontiers
for twelve years after,# until the treaty of Greenville iai
1795. In 178£, Kentucky was formed into a District,
with an independent judiciary, from which there might
be an appeal, in certain cases, to the superior courts in
Virginia. But although the mother state had conducted
towards these new settlers with so liberal a policy, as to
preclude all complaint, their distance from the seat of
government had subjected them to serious inconvenien-
ces, which prompted them to ask for a separation. Toi
which proposal the state of Virginia, in 1785, readily ac-
quiesced. Divers causes, however, retarded the admis-
sion of the new state into the union until February, 1791.
The Population of this state, by the census of 1810,
was returned as amounting to 406,511. Since which
period, the emigration from Kentucky to the various parts
of the western country, it is presumed, has beennearlj,
KENTUCKY.
93
ual both to the natural increase, and the accession by
lieration into the state. From an estimate made on
e resolve of the legislature in 1816, the amount appears
be 422,900 — producing a gain in six years of only
,389. The population as apportioned among the seve-
counties, with the towns placed opposite the counties
which they respectively form the seats of justice, are
hibited in the following columns :
POPULATION OF THE SEVERAL COUNTIES IN 1816.
Counties.
Population.
Chief Towns.
Adair
7,000
Columbia
Baner
12,000
Glasgow
Boone
4,200
Burlington
Bracken
3,800
Augusta
Bourbon
20,000
Paris
Butler
25,000
Morgantown
Bullit
5,000
Shepherdsville
Clark
12,300
Winchester
Casey
3,700
Liberty
Campbell
• 3,500
Newport
Christian
12,000
Hopkinsonville
Cumbei'land
7,000
. Burkesville
Clay
2,600
Manchester
Caldwell
5,000
Eddy Grove
Estle
2,200
Fayette
23,000
Lexington
Franklin
8,500
Frankfort
Fleming
9,000
Flemingsburgh
Floyd
3,600
Prestonville
Gallatin
3,800
Port William
Greenup
2,500
Greenupsburgh
Qi
fe
KENTUCKY
•
Counties.
Population.
Chief Towns.
Green
7,100
Greensburgh
Grayson
2,400
Garrard
9,700
Lancaster
Henry
7,000
New Castle
Harrison
8,100
Cynthiana
Henderson
5,000
Henderson
Hardin
7,800
Elizabethtown
Hopkins
3,100
Madisonville
Jessamine
8,600
Nicholasville
JeiFerson
13,800
Louisville
Knox
6,000
Barboursville
Livingston
4,000
Smithland
Lewis
2,500
Clarksville
Lincoln
9,000
Stamford
Logan
12,600
Russelville
Mason
13,000
Washington
Mercer
13,100
Danville
Madison
16,000
Richmond
Muhlenburgh
4,400
Greenville
Montgomery
13,600
Mount Sterling
Nicholas
5,000
- Ellisville
Nelson
14,600
Bairdstown
Ohio
. 4,000
Hartford
Pulaski
7,000
Somerset
Pendleton
3,200
Falmouth
Rock Castle
1,900
Mount Vernon
Scott
12,700
Georgetown
Shelby
15,000
Shelbyville
Wayne
5,600
Monticello
Washington
13,600
Springfield
Warren
12,200
Bowling Green
Woodford
9,900
Versailles
KENTUCKY. 95
Agricultural productions. — ^Wheat, tobacco and hemp,
re the principal articles for exportation. — But Indian
orn is extensively raised for home consumption. Rye,
ats, barley, buckwheat, flax, potatoes, &c. are cultivated.
Apples, pears, peaches, cherries and plumbs, are the
lost common fruit. Great numbers of swine, neat cat-
le and horses are raised for market. More of the latter,
ombining beauty and strength, it is presumed cannot be
bund in any state of the union.
PRINCIPAL TOWNS.
Maysville, formerly Limestone, in the county of Mason,
tands on the bank of the Ohio, just below Limestone
reek, about 275 miles by land, and 752 by water from
'ittsburgh. It is a convenient and safe harbour for the
anding of boats, and contains more than 400 houses,
nost of which are built with brick, in an elegant style,
L bank, 40 stores, one tobacco, two hat, and two copper
.nd tin manufactories, and a number of other mechanic
hops ; one printing office, wliich publishes a weekly
lewspaper, a post office, three houses for public worship,
;wo seminaries of learning, one glass house, one steam
^ist mill, a rope walk, on a very extensive scale, and
I brick market house. This town being the principal
ieposite in the northeast part of the state, for goods that
ire transported up and down the river, for the interior
)f Kentucky, is a lively place for trade.
Washington^ three miles south west from Maysville,
is the seat of justice for the county of Mason, has three
parallel streets ; contains a court house, jail, two houses
for public worship, two academies, a post and printing
office, six taverns, several stores and mechanic shops,
tnd a branch of the Kentucky bank.
96 KENTUCKY.
Paris, the capital of Bourbon countj, is upon an emi
nence on the Stony Fork of Licking river, at the moutl
of Huston creek, contains many well finished bricl
houses, mercantile stores, mechanic shops, &c. two mer
chant grist mills, several carding machines, two churche
and a printing office j and surrounded by a fine ric
country.
Lexington, 22 miles east southeast* from Frankfor
64 southwest from Maysville, and 335 by land from Pittf
burgh, is in north latitude 38° 6'. It is the most popi
lous, flourishing town in the state, anii the capital of Faj
ette county. It is delightfully situated,- and surroundei
by one of the most fertile and delightsome farming coun
tries in the west. Its site is on the north side of the Iro
Fork, a small creek which flows into Elkhorn river ; cor
tains about 1000 houses, the main street exceeding a mil
in length, 80 feet wide, level and well paved, with fo(
ways 12 feet wide on each side. It contains a coui
house, a jail, a market house, a theatre, masonic hal
museum, public library, female academy, an Universitj
three banks, one of which is a branch of the U. S. banl
and three printing offices, each of which publishes
weekly newspaper. There are seven houses for publi
worship ; three Presbyterian, one Episcopalian, one Baj
tist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic. Lexino
ton has flourished rapidly — there being, in 1797 onl
about 50 houses, The houses are built generally in i
handsome style. Near the centre is a public square
surrounded by brick buildings. There are various exten
sive manufacturing establishments in this town ; amonj
which are four nail factories, two copper and tin manu
factories, a steam grist and paper mill, several large rop(
walks, cotton and woolen manufactories, distilleries
'.Zl/l.
KENTUCKY. 97
reweiies, &c. lu the vicinity are a number of handsome
ountry seats.
Qeorgetoivn, the capital of Scott county, stands on
loyal Spring, which empties into North Elkhorn, about a
iiile from the town. It contains a meeting house, print-
ig office, post office, a rope walk, several neat houses,
nd manufacturing establishments.
Danville, the capital of Mercer county, is 33 miles
outh-southwest from Lexington, on the southwest side
f Dick's river, containing more than 200 houses, six
merchant stores, several small factories, a rope walk,
I court house, post office and printing office, in which is
blished a weekly newspaper.
Harrodsburgh, a post town of Mercer county, is 10
liles northwest from Danville, on both sides Salt river,
nd contains 80 houses, including two merchant stores,
meeting house and post office.
Stamford, the_^ chief town of Lincoln county, 10 miles
uth-southeast from Danville, contains 112 houses, two
ores, a court house, a jail, post office and a rope walk,
here are several large plantations near, from whence
e springs issue, which form the sources of Green river.
Somerset, the seat of justice for Pulaski county, is situ-
ed 12 miles south-southeast of Stamford,^on a hill, con-
iuing about 80 houses, eight stores, three blacksmith
ops, a grist mill, four taverns and a post office. Six
les beyond Somerset, on the Monticello road, the hilly
k and chesnut forest commences. The ascent from
rich lands below to the summit of the knobs, is seve-
hundred feet.
Monticello, the capital of Wayne county, has an eleva-
i situation on a dry ridge, half way between Cumber-
id river, and Tennessee boundary line, contains 60
98 KENTUCKY.
houses, a court house, a place for public worship, thre«
taverns and five stores ; south, are saltpetre caves near
Frankfort, a post town, and metropolis of Kentucky
on Kentucky river, 60 miles above its confluence with
the Ohio, 22 west northwest from Lexington, 52 east from
Louisville, longitude 7° 38' west, latitude 38° 14' north
This town is little inferior to Lexington, in the size anc
number of its houses ; it contains a state house, a cour
house, a penitentiary, a jail, market house, a state bank
an academy, two houses of public worship, and thre<
printing offices, each issuing a paper weekly. The stat(
house is 86 feet by 54, composed of rough marble. Th(
court house is a large brick building. The penitentiarj
contained, in 1817, from seventy to one hundred prison'
ers, the product of whose labor exceeded their expenses
for support and confinement. The town contains severa
rope walks, two bagging manufactories, a tobacco wan
house, and powder mills. The site gf the town is a
semicircular alluvial plain, 200 feet lower than the ground
in its rear. The river, which is here 100 yards wide
having bold limestone banks, forms a handsome curve
and waters the southern and western parts of the town.
The bottoms, on each side of tlie river are broad, and
subject to inundation. For several years after the set-
tlements commenced, the inhabitants were afflicted wit!
bilious complaints ; the chief cause of this disease
is considered as being removed by draining the lane
which confined stagnant water. Several large brigs hav(
been built here and sent to New-Orleans.
Versailles, the seat of justice for Woodford, a rich ant
populous county, stands on a creek, which discharges
into Kentucky river, 13 miles southwest by south fron
Lexington ; it contains 100 houses, mostly large, buil
of brick and stone.
KENTUCKY. 99
Shelbyville, stands on Brashan's creek, 12 mites above
its junction with Salt river, and 20 miles southwest from
Franklin. — It is the seat of justice for Shelby county,
and contains several stores and mechanic shops, a court
house, meeting house, post office, and printing office.
Cynthiana stands on the South Fork of Licking, 34
miles soutlieast from Newport, and 26 north by east
from Lexington, and is the county seat of Harrison. It
contains 120 houses, a court and market house, jail, and
an academy, endowed by the legislature with 6,000 acres
of land. Several merchant stores and mechanic shops,
with 12 grist and saw mills, are within three miles of the
town.
Shippingport, is situated at the foot of the falls of the
Ohio, two miles below the mouth of Beargrass creek. It
is the landing place for goods, ascending the river for
Kentucky. After passing the rapids, it is usual for boats
descending, to put in and obtain a supply of necessaries
for their voyage.
Portland is just below and adjoining Shippingport. It
is a flourishing place. A street 99 feet wide, having a
. communication with Louisville, extends along the highest
bank above the whole length of the town. It contains
three ware houses, several stores, and one good tavern.
Jugusta stands on the left bank of the Ohio, 22 miles
below Maysville, and is the capital of Bracken county.
It is surrounded by an extensive bottom, and affi3rds a
view of tlie river, has a clean gravelly beach for a landing,
and contains about 80 houses, several stores, a court house,
and meeting house. Bracken creek discharges into the
Ohio, about a half mile above the village, and drives seve-
ral grist mills.
100 KENTUCKY.
Newport, the county seat for Campbell, stands just
above the mouth of Licking, and opposite to Cincinnati.
It commands a delightsome variegated prospect, and is
the point of rendezvous for most of the military expe-
ditions from Kentucky. In this town the public arsenal,
a spacious building, containing arms and munitions of
war for the United States, is situated on the bank of the
Ohio. It contains several handsome brick houses ; a
banking house, court house, jail and market house, seve-
ral stores, a tobacco manufactory, a post office, a school
house, a public academy, not yet in operation, although
endowed by the state with 6000 acres of land, and two.
religious societies.
Covington lies just below Newport, on the opposite
side of Licking. The great road from the interior of
Kentucky to the Miami and Whitewater country, passes
through this place.
Port William, the county seat for Gallatin, stands at
the mouth of the Kentucky i-iver, and contains 60 houses,
several stores, mechanic shops and two inns.
JVew-Castle, 18 miles southwest from Westport, is the -
seat of justice for Henry county, and contains 80 houses j
principally of wood, a court house, and four stores.
Westport, in Henry county, on the bank of the Ohio,
48 miles below the mouth of Kentucky river, and twenty-
four above Louisville, contains about 50 houses, includ-
ing stores and mechanic shops—is watered by Little
Kentucky ; which is a commodious mill stream. The
surrounding lands ^.re fertile. There is plenty of good
oak for ship building. On Dennon's creek, 25 miles
from the Ohio, is a salt lick ; lead ore is found near the
lick ; and about three miles up the creek is a medicinal
spring, mucli fierjueuted ii\ summer by the inhabitants.
KENTUCKY. 101
Louisville, the capital of Jefferson county, at the head
)f the rapids on the Ohio, is 122 miles below Cincinnati,
md 42 west from Frankfort. It is a flourishing town,
ind the most considerable, except Lexington, in the state,
;ontaining nearly 5,000 inhabitants, is pleasantly situat-
id on an eminence, which is 70 feethigh, gently descend-
ng to a narrow plain along the bank of the river. It
contains two banks, one of which is a branch of the
United States, two printing offices, an academy, various
other public buildings, and several rope walks and man-
factories. The three principal streets run parallel
with the river. From the front street there is a fine view
jf the rapids and of the shore and hills on the opposite
ide of the river. Although a company has been incor-
porated by the legislature for opening a canal on the
Kentucky side of the rapids, there is not much pros-
pect that such an undertaking will be effected ; as it is
Generally thought by disinterested men, that the forma-
tion of a canal there would be attended with a vastly
greater expense, than on the Indiana side ; the latter
having been already undertaken, and is now progressing
under the direction of enterprising, skilful managers. —
An extensive commerce is now carried on with Natchez,
IS^ew-Orleans, and St. Louis.
Russelville lays 36 miles from Green and Cumberland
rivers, 180 southwest of Frankfort, and 85 southwest of
Louisville, within 15 resiles of Red river on the south,
and within 25 miles of Muddy, a branch of Green
river, on the north, each navigable in freshets for large
boats into Green and Cumberland rivers. It contains
170 houses, several stores, mechanic shops, court house,
branch of the bank of Kentucky, a college, two printing
offices, and a meeting house. On the north is much he**
102 KENTUCKY.
vy timber, on the south, an open praira, extending 15
miles wide, whicli expands 90 miles in length. These
prairas are interspersed with groves of timber ; the soil
is rich and well watered. Within two miles of Russel-
ville, a society have planted a vineyard. Considerable
quantities of cotton are raised in this country, for ex-
portation.
Bairdstown, the capital of Nelson county, lays on the
east side of Buck Foik, a principal branch of Salt river,
35 miles south of Frankfort, in latitude 36° 49'. It con-
tains more than 200 houses, including mercantile stores,
a stone court house, printing office, jail, church, and mar-
ket house.
Henderson, is situated on the Red bank of the Ohio, 75
miles below Louisville, being the seat of justice for Hen-
derson county. The town is small, and contains a few
stores and inns. Tobacco is the principal staple for the
surrounding country, but considerable quantities of cot-
ton are raised.
Mountains. — The great Cumberland chain of moun-
tains, reaching over the southern borders of this state,
projects into divers branches ; and after putting out
into an extensive range in Tennessee, terminates by one
vidge in the western part of Kentucky, between the Ten-
nessee and Cumberland rivers. These include the only
mountains in the state, *worthy of notice.
Rivers. — The Big Sandy ris^s in the Allegany moun-
tains, near the sources of the Clinch and Cumberland, and
forms part of the boundary line between Kentucky and
Virginia ; is 200 yards wide at its mouth, branching into
the North-east and South Forks, 40 miles from its junc-'
tion with the Ohio, and is navigable to the Audscioto
mountains. Between the mouths ©f Big Sandy and Licfcs
KENTUCKY. lOS
ing, the following creeks and rivulets flow into the Oliio,
(being from 18 to 72 miles long, and from 10 to 50 yards
wide at their mouths,) viz. Little Sandy, below Big Sandy
22 miles; Tiber's creeA", below 21 ; Sycamore creek, 18 ;
Crooked creek, 13 ; Cabbin creek, Brooks's creek. Lime-
stone creek and Bracken creek. These streams are mostly
lavigable for small boats and canoes.
Licking river has its source in the southeast corner of
:he state, near the head of the Cumberland — pursues a
lorthwestern course, and meets the Ohio at Newport,
)pposite Cincinnati. The extent of its meanderings is
!00 miles, of which 70 miles from the mouth is navigable.
The Kentucky finds its source in the mountains, at the
outheast angle of the state, where it interlocks with the
lead waters of Licking and Cumberland ; and pursuing
I northwest course, it mingles with the Ohio at Port
iVilliam, 77 miles above Louisville. It is navigable for
fiore than 150 miles from its mouth, which is 150 yards
vide. The cuwent is rapid, and the banks high and
ocky, exhibiting in some parts, a grand and romantic
cenery.
Dick's, a tributary to the Kentucky, below the mouth
f Hickman, takes its rise in Lincoln county ; is 52
dies long, and 60 yards wide at the mouth. Its current
rapid, and its waters are walled in by precipices 300
eet high, composed of solid limestone and white marble.
Elkhorn; another tributary, flows into the Kentucky
ight miles below Frankfort ; is 50 yards wide at the
fiouth, and is formed from two forks : the one rising near
xington, and the other near Gc'ttrgetown. These
iranches water Scott and Fayette -^ounties ; their cur-
ents are rapid, precipitous, and capable of driving mills
nd mill macliinery.
104f KENTUCKY.
^ Eagle creek proceeds from Harrison county, and meets
the Kentucky fifteen miles frop the mouth of the latter.
Salt rivet; in three branches, from Mercer county,
through a mouth 150 yards wide, meets the Ohio twenty
miles below Louisville. It traverses the counties of
Jefferson, Greenup, Washington and Mercer, and is na-
vigable 150 miles.
Green river commenc^ps in Lincoln county, and pur-
suing a western ccurse, flows into the Ohio 200 miles
below Louisville, and 50 above the Cumberland. At its
mouth is 50 yards wide, and navigable 200 miles — flowa
northeast, receiving in its progress many tributary streams,
of which the principal is Great Barren river, that is fed
through several forks, which head near the Cumberland
and Tennessee. Little Barren rises in Bullit county,
and joins the right branch of Green river, 50 miles below
the Great Barren. Rough river flows from the south-
east, and joins Green river 50 miles from its confluence
with the Ohio. Panther^s creek comes in from the south-
east, 26 miles from the Ohio.
The Trade-water rises in the county of Christian, ai
the bend of the Cumberland ; is 80 miles long ; pursuing
a northwest course, meets the Ohio through a mouth 70
yards wide, 200 miles below the mouth of Green river;
being nearly an equal distance from the mouth of Green
and Cumberland rivers.
The Cumberland, which traverses a long way in a cir-
cuitous route, within the limits of Kentucky, as also the,
Ohio and Tennessee, have already been described in our
preliminary remarks.
Bed river takes its rise in Cumberland county, and
after flowing southwest 50 miles, by a mouth 80 yards
wide, joins the Cumberland.
KENTUCK'i^. 105
The Kdskinainpas river waters the western end of the
tate, proceeds from near the Tennessee, and pursuing a
vestern course, entere the Mississippi about half way
etween the mouth of the Ohio and New-Madrid.
Minerals. — Iron is abundant in several parts of this
tate, though not of the best quality, and is principally
sed to form hollow ware. Of marble there are immense
uarries, beautifully variegated, and capable of a high
olish, on the banks of the Kentucky. A mineral of pe-
tliar qualities has been discovered, that is semi-trans-
arent, and alM ays in a rhomboidal form, which possesses
le double refracting power of the Iceland crystaL The
ineral waters of this state will be found under that
j^d, in our preliminary remarks.
The productions of Kentucky are similar to those of
hio ; except that the southern part, from its position, is
jtter adapted to the cultivation of cotton. It is how-
irer said that English grasses, on account of a larger pro-
jrtion of calcareous ingredients in its soil, do not suc-
ked so well. Hemp, wheat and tobacco have been ten-
dered the principal staples. The latter article is raised
great abundance.
In Manufactures, Kentucky has made very considera-
e progress. In 1810, by a return made. to the office of
e Secretary of State, it appeared that the amount of
anufactured articles exceeded g5,000,000. Of which
;gregate the loom produced S2,657,084 ; the salt works
93,400 ; maple sugar 8308,932 — the remainder con-
sted of the products of tanneries, distilleries, paper
ills, and divers other species of manufactures.
Among the Literary Institutions of this state, the prin-
pal is the Transylvania University, at L^^^ington, which
as incorporated several years ago, and which has lately
106 KENTUCKY.
been reorganised and placed on a respectable foundation,
There are two college edifices, of brick— one erected
some time since ; the other an elegant edifice, built in
1818, upon so extended a scale as to accommodate one
hundred students. The former library contained nearlj
2000 volumes, to which of late has been made a larg<
addition. Here is also a complete philosophical appai-a
tus. The extent of the funds with which this institutior
is endowed, we have not been able to ascertain ; it ii
however understood that they are ample, consisting o
bank stock and real estate. There are thirteen trustees
all elected triennially by the legislature. Tlie executiv*
government is vested in a president, a professor of Ian
guages, one of mathematics and natural philosophy, om
of chemistry and mineralogy, two tutors, a professor o
law, and four professors in the medical department. Tht
requisitions for admission and the course of study are h
be the same as at the University in Cambridge, Mass
and it is intended to make the standard of education at
high as in any of the Atlantic colleges.
#
INDIAKA.
Indi.(na was admitted into the federal union, as a
fcate, in the year 1816. It is bounded by the state of
Uinois on the west, by a line on the Wabash from
louth to 40 miles above Vincennes, and thence oi
ieridian line so far north as to include the southern ex4
remity of lake Michigan 10 miles in depth, by a boun-
ary line on the north drawn due east : east by the state
f Ohio, 'by a meridian line, running from the mouth of
he Big Miami : on the south by the Ohio river. Length
i-om north to south, 284 miles; breadth from east to
vest 155 ; contains about 37,000 square miles ; lays be-
ween 37° 45' and 41° 52' north latitude, and 7° 40' and
L0° west longitude.
Face of the Country, Soil, Sfc. — There are in Indiana
10 considerable heights of land, that (strictly speaking)
;an properly be denominated mountains. The river hills
Tom 100 to 200 feet high, diverging from 30 to 600 rods
from the Ohio, according to the width of the alluvial
margin, commence within two miles east of the Great
Miami, and extend in the direction of the river Ohio,
within about twelve miles above the Falls, where they
gradually merge in a valley, which extends about 25
miles below ; where the same range of hills reappears,
and extends in tlie course of the river, as it runs, from
60 to 70 miles below, where the hills disappear, and a
108 INDIANA.
region sometimes level, and sometimes waving, com-
mences, which is expanded southwestwardly to the Wa*
bash, and northwestwardly and northeastwardly, with
rare exceptions, to the ^reat western lakes.
On the borders of most of the streams are strips of
lich bottom, and there are also praira lands, from one to
five miles wide. Between the Wabash and lake Michi^
gan, the country is generally level, abounding alternately
with prairas and woodland, and occasionally large marsh-
es, and several small lakes. Some of the prairas be-
tween fort Harrison and fort Meigs, are covered with
red top and fowl meadow grasses.
Between the Oliio and White river, a range of knobs
forms the high table lauds that divide the head waters
of some of the tributaries to the Ohio from those of the
White river, commencing about 25 miles north%om the.
Ohio, and 20 miles eastwardly from Salem, and pursuing
a course southwestwardly, reaches that river 1 2 or 13
miles below the Falls, where they terminate. Most o£
this region is thickly covered with large forest trees.
North of the Wabash, between Tippecanoe and Ouiti
non, a French settlement, the banks of the streams ai
high, abrupt and broken, and the lands, except' the prai-
ras, covered with timber. Between the Plein and the>
Theakiki, (which are the head branches of the Illinois) '
the country is flat and wet, interspersed with prairas of
an inferior soil. In this region, the swamps seemtofur«>
nish the head streams of rivers, and the lands appear to
be too low and wet for cultivation.
There are two kinds of prairas, the river and the up-
land : the former are destitute of timber, and are said to
exhibit vestiges of former cultivation; the latter are
from 30 to 100 feet more elevated, and are more nume-i
INDIANA. 109
ous and extensive. Some of them are not larger than
common field, others extending farther than the eye
an reach. They are usually interspersed with some
lumps of trees, and bounded by feeavy timbered forests,
n spring and summer, they are covered vi^ith a luxuriant
rowth of grass and fragrant flowers, from five to eight
!et high. The soil of these plains is often' as deep and
;rtile as the best bottoms. The prairas near the Wabash
e remarkably rich, and almost inexhaustible by crops.
y the digging of wells, the vegetable soil has been
)und 22 feet deep, bedded on white sand ; their common
epth is from two to five feet. C: ''^'■
Among the lands purchased of the Indians in 1818,
re 8,500,000 acres within the state of Indiana. This
ew purchase is bounded on the south by a line drawn
8 miles,,above fort Harrison, at the Wabash, on the old
liclian boundary — thence alqng on the east side of the
V'abash to the forks of White river, and from thence to
)rt Wayne.
The acquisition of this new purchase, which is now
iirveying, and will soon be exposed for sale, will greatly
ontribute to increase the population and promote the
rosperity<,of the state of Indiana.
The quality of the soil, for so large a tract in a body,
ill bear a comparison to any, perhaps, within the Uni-
id States. Indeed, it has been esteemed, by intelligent
len, who have often traversed it, in all directions, in
oint of rural scenery, a copious supply of pure water,
irtility of soil and security to health, equal to any part
f the western country. The greater part is covered
dth a beautiful growth of forest trees, not unlike those
ommon to bottoms and uplands of the first quality in
le state of Ohio j except on considerable portions of fine
K
HO INDIANA.
prairas, which in the centre and to the noi-th west vk va-
rious places, are spread out extensively. The surface in
this part of the tract is delightfully variegated by gentle
undulations.
At the northeast, although the lands will make valua-
ble plantations, the surface over a considerable part, ap-
preaches too near, perhaps, a perfect champaign to em-
brace all the conveniences of the best agricultural situa-
tions. The soil is, however, strong and durable, well
adapted to wheat and meadow grasses. The prevailing
growth here is beech, although there be considerable sugar
maple and other forest trees that indicate a rich soil.'
The infrequency of running stieams, and the level sur-
face in the northeast, cause a scarcity of good mill seats.
The lands bordering on the waters of the White river
and its tributary streams are considered amongj:. those of
the best quality, excepting a strip of about 30 miles
by 15, laying near the west branch, which being low,
marshy, and occasionally overflowed, is unfavorable to
health. Much of this tract, not excepted, is delightfully
situated, and the surface consisting of gentle undula
tions, supplied with good water, and variegated with
merous, small, rich, dry prairas.
An extensive tract, bordering on the waters of the
Tippacanoe and the two Yermillion and Eel rivere, are
lands of superior quality, and not excelled for fertility
by any iu the state. The northern position of these
lands, will afford a climate favorable to the health of
emigrants not habituated to southern latitudes.
The productions of Indiana in corn, wheat, rye, barley,
oats, beans, peas, Irish, sweet potatoes, and garden vege-
tables of every description, are abundant. In some
parts of the state, where the soil consists of a sandy
INDIANA. Ill
lloam, certain species of the wine gi-ape, particularly the
giape of Good Hope, and cotton, have flourished. It is
presumed that upland rice would succeed well in this
soil, as it has been known to flourish within the state of
Kentucky, in the same latitude. Farming is conducted
on a large scale in the Wabash country for several miles
around Vincennes and fort Harrison, where the soil ii
exceedingly productive. Within this region, single farni-
>rs have raised, in one year, from 4,000 to' 10,000 bushels
of corn, and various kinds of small grain. The soil ia
these places is of a deep, rich, dark gray, sandy loam,
which is ploughed easily, and resists^ the effects of
drought and drenching rains. It has proved so inex-
haustible by cropping without manure, that the same
corn fields have been planted for more than half a century
in constant succession without a perceivable diminution
of crops.
The population of Indiana has, perhaps, experienced
a more rapid increase than any state in the union. At
the census in 1810, it contained only 24,520 inhabitants,
exclusive of Indians. In the territorial census of 1815,
the number returned to Congress, as a prerequisite to
the formation of a state, was 67,784. At this period,
August 1819, it is confidently believed, that 165,000
would not be an exaggerated estimate. Since the census
of 1815, thfe number of counties have more than doubled,
although until the late purchase in 1818, nearly two-
thirds of the extent of territory was in the possession of
the Indians.
The several counties to which the number of inhabit-
ants is not annexed, have been formed since 1815 — the
other counties show, in the secdnd column, the number of
inhabitants they respectively contained, at that time —
iL.
11^
INDIANA.
the third column presents. the names of the towns in
which are the seats of justice for the counties to which
they are annexed.
Counties.
Population.
Chief Towns.
Clark
7,000
Charleston
Crawford
Mount Sterling
Dearboni
4,426
Lawrenceburgh
Davies
Washington
Dubois
Franklin
7,970
Brookville
Fayette
Connersville
Floyd
New-Albany
Gibson
5,330
Princeton
Harrison
6,769
Corydon
Jackson
Brownstown
Jefferson
4,093
Madison
Jennings
Vernon
Knox
6,800
Vincennes
Lawrence
Palestine
Monroe
Orange
Paoli
Perry
3,000
Franklin
Posey
3,000
Harmony
Randolph
Ripley
Versailles
Spencer
Rockpwi't
Sullivan
Merom
Switzerland
3,500
Vevay
Vandeburgh
Evansville
Warwick
6,606
Boonsborough
Washington
3,000
Salem
Wayne
6,290
Centreville
IL
INDIANA. 113
Of the chief towns in this state, the progress of improve-
ments and population, render an adequate description
very difficult. We will, however, endeavour to give
such sketches as will present to enquirers a tolerable
view of the towns most considerable, and of the coun-
try surrounding them.
Salisbury, formerly the county seat of Wayne, situ-
ated on ahead branch of Whitewater river, is but two
miles eastwardly of Centreville, the latter place consist-
ing of a few cabbins in the woods, where the courts are
now holden. Concerning the seat of justice for this coun-
ty, a great interest has been excited among the citizens ;
and on application'to the legislature, commissioners have
been appointed to designate the spot for a permanent
establishment. Two expensive brick court houses, have
already been erected, one at Salisbury, and tlie other at
Centreville, not more than two miles apart. The land
surrounding Salisbury and Centreville, and indeed, the
whole county of Wayne, is one of the most valuable
tracts for cultivation in the state. The surface in some
parts is too flat and wet, but mostly gently waving, the
soil strong and durable, covered with stately forest trees,
iinely watered by the head branches of the Whitewater,
which furnishes divers valuable mill seats. Many of the
settlers are from North Carolina, whose improvements
have formed large and valuable plantations.
BrookvilU, the county seat of Franklin, stands upon
a narrow elevated plain, in the forks of Whitewater. A
considerable part of the town, however, is built on the
margin of the East Tork, 65 or 70 feet lower than the
upper bottom. TJie situation is pleasant and romantic,
exhibiting the variegated prospect of the meanderings of
the streams, and of hills topped with forest trees on either
k2
1 14 INDIANA.
■side, cultivated farms and water mills. This town,
which did not contain 20 dwelling houses at the close
of the late war, now, (1819) exceedsthe number of one
hundred, besides several stores, mechanic shops, &c.
Within the limits of the town are two grist and two saw
mills, three fulling mills, and three carding machines.
Tliere are a neat brick court house, a jail, and a market
house. Distance from Cincinnati, north west, 42 miles.
The county of Franklin contains excellent bottom lands
on the margin of the two. Whitewater forks; and the
uplands are generally covered with a good soil, and well
timbered.
Lawrencebiirgh, the seat Of justice for the county of
Dearborn, stands on the west bank of the Ohio, 23 miles
from Cincinnati, and twobelowihe mouth of the Great,
!&liami. The situation of this town is^ery pleasant, being
on a spacious plain, which commands a vieAv of the river,
surrounded by extensive rich bottom lands. The spot
occupied by the town, is the nearest convenient site on
the Ohio west of the Miami. But it is subject to inun-
dation by extraordinary freshets ; the largest of which
has covered Main, the highest street, four feet deep. But
this street is now raised above the highest freshets, an(i
the principal buildings are elevated above the street. Orf
an average, the town is flooded not more than once iu
thi-ee or four years. — But as the inhabitants are familiar
with the occurrence, they are prepared :' they anchor
their fences with little trouble, so as to secure them from
fioating ; t'neir upper rooms receive the contents of their
cellar?, their cattle and hogs are drifen to high grounds ;
thus prepared, they await the overflowing and the reces-
sion of the waters, as unconcerned as did the family of
Noah the gr^t deluge, ;, The highest floods rarely coo-j
INDIANA. 115
tiuue more than eight or ten days. As no stagnant pools
remain, the flooding of the town is followed by no injury
to health, and by much less inconvenience to the inhabi*
tants, than can be imagined by strangers. The preced-
ing remarks apply only to Old Lawrenceburgh ; for
New-Lawrenceburgh, so called, within the limits of the
same town, ab»ut 100 rods from the old settlement, is
[lever overflowed. The latter is a handsome site, bound-
ed by Tanner's creek on the west, which joins the Ohio
1 mile below, and is navigable to tlie new town. It con-
tains a number of large, elegant houses, built with brick,
I large grist and saw mill, driven by four oxen, on an
inclined plane wheel, a spacious cotton factory, driven by
the same power, besides mechanic shops and other build-
ngs, all erected within two years. This site, by itself,
-vhich is to be connected with the old town by a high
itreet above the flooding waters, is spacious enough for
I pretty large town. Lawrenceburgh, from its first set-
lement, till within two or three of the last years, has
irogressed very slowly. Nothing could have so long
etarded the prosperity of this delightful situation, which
lature seemed to have designed for a centre of much
lusiness, but the dreadful apprehensions which emigrants
entertain of the evils of overflo\ving waters. It is the
learest point to the river for an immense tract of inte-
iorgood land, and yet unsettled, in the most convenient
mtlet for the produce of the great Whitewater country,
md is the natural place of deposite for staple commodi-
ies which'float down the Big Miami. The evils con-
emplated from occasional overflowing, the old settlers
lave found more imaginary than real.
There is no place on tlie banks of the Ohio, perhaps,
»rhere better water is found or more perfect health en-
116 INDIANA.
joyed, than at Lawrenceburgh. Nor is there any town
in the state, we presume, ^vhich has flourished more
within two or three of the last years ; many neat brick
houses and stores have lately been erected, both in the
old and new town ; some of which are nearly as spaci-
ous and elegant as any in the .western country. Mer-
chants and mechanics of various descriptions have met
with encouragement. The town has, within 30 months,
doubled its population, which, at this time (August 1819)
may be estimated at about 700. Beside the Big Miami
and Whitewater, seven considerable streams traverse
the county of Dearborn, all emptying into the Ohio, with-
in the county, which borders on that river not exceeding
17 miles. The most of these streams, including the
Ohio, have spacious margins of bottom lands. The face
of the country bordering on the Ohio, however, for some
miles in width, has spread over it many abrupt hills,
which as well as the vallies, are covered by a deep rich
soil. But as we recede some distance back from the
creeks, the surface becomes sufficiently level. In the'
northern part of the county are large tracts, of which
the prevailing growth is oak of divers species. These
lands, though the appearance be rather forbidding to a
stranger, prove veiy productive in wheat, grass and most
other crops, common to the country.
There appears a considerable propensity in the people
of Dearborn county to the formation of towns, there be-
ing 12 or IS already laid off. Our limits will permit us
to notice some of the principal only.
Harrison is a pleasant little, village on the Whitewa-
ter, about 14 miles northeast of Lawrenceburgh ; the
main street being the boundary line between the states
Indiana and Ohio. It would seem from the numerous
INDIANA. 117
iimuli and places of ancient sepulture, that this plain,
;enturies ago, was covered by the habitations of men.— -
rhe town which contains a considerable number of neat
Iwelling houses, is surrounded by a tract of excellent
and, on which are many handsome plantations.
Ifardensburgh, on the west bank of the Great Miami,
wo miles from its mouth, occupies a handsome site, and
ontains about 50 houses, seven or eight of which are
ecent brickbuildings.
I Aurora, at the mouth of Hogan creek, on the west
ank of that stream, four miles below Lawrenceburgb,
lid nine above Rising Sun, was laid off' by 20 proprietors
1818. About 40 frames, for dwelling houses and
ores, were erected on donation lots, before any of the
hers were offered for sale. This town has a fine pros-
ct of the meanderings of the creek and the river ; and
accommodated with as good a harbor for boats, as any
ace between Pittsburgh and the Mississippi ; a strong
Idy from the Ohio putting into the creek, which exceeds
feet in depth at all stages of water.
Rising Sun, 13 miles below Lawrenceburgb, forms one
the most delightful situations on the banks of the Ohio.
is surroimded by a spacious tract of rich bottom, and
cupies a gentle, gradual descent, that commands a com-
te prospect of the river ; between which and the front
w of houses, is a broad street more than 150 rods in
igth. This town contains more than 100 houses, and
brds employment for several traders, taverns, and a
mber of industrious mechanics.
Wilmington, a small village, stands on a high hill,
)ut equidistant froni the East and West Forks of
gan.
Hanover is a little village two miles above the mouth
Laughry ; the houses are mostly cabbins.
liS INDIANA.
Hartford, about five or six miles from the Ohio, is i
flourishing village on Laughry creek, containing 50 or 6(
houses.
Vevay, the county seat of Switzerland, situated eigh
miies above the mouth of Kentucky river, on the Ohio
45 below Cincinnati, is a pleasant flourishing town, con
taining 190 houses, a decent brick court house, a jail
printing office, a large distillery, several taverns and uie
chanic shops. A branch of the bank of Indiana is estab
lished here. It was commenced in 1814, within the trac
granted by the United States, to about 30 Swiss familie
in 1804; who began their settlements, near the plac(
where the town now stands, in the following year. Thii
land was obtained from government on an exiendet
credit, for the purpose of encouraging the cultivation o
the grape vine ; in which employment the Swiss liavi
been more successful, it is presumed, than any attemp
on a laige scale, within the United States. In 18li
about 100 hogsheads of wine were produced from all^Hi
vineyards ; some of which belonging to individuals, hav«
singly grown grapes latterly, sufficient to make 1Q0(
gallons of wine. The Madeira and the Cape of Good
Hope have flourished better than any other sp^ies whicl
have been tried. The vines of each grow well, but th«
Cape being much less liable to be injured by early frosl
is the least precarious and the most productive. Thii
wine is wholesome, and not unpalatable. It is preserve(
through the summer months witliout distilled spirits, aw
grows better by age.
Madison, on the second bottom of the bank of the Ohio
is the county seat of Jefferson. This is one of the mos
beautiful and flourishing towns in the state ; was com
menced 1811 ; in February, 1819, contained 821 inhabi
INDIANA. 119
nts, 123 dwelling houses, besides stores, mechanic
lops, &c. Has a court house and jail, and a banking
stablisliment. This town derives an importance from
5 central position, by standing in one of the most north-
ly bends of the Ohio ; thereby presenting one of the
earest points of Ohio navigation to that extensive body
F rich land, at and around the Delaware towns, which
et remains uncultivated. The town is, except on the
ver board, surrounded by rugged, higli hills, ^Irhich
[fer a steep and laborious ascent for a loaded team.
'N'ew-Leocington, 16 miles west of Madison, contains
jout 50 houses, and is in the vicinity of an extensive
act of good land.
JVew-London, 10 miles below Madison, on the Ohio,
formed by nature for one of the most pleasant situa-
ous on that river ; presenting a gradual and gentle
escent for 150 rods back from the river, the position of
le ground affording a most excellent route for a good
)ad to the back country, and exhibiting from a distance,
charming view of the broad expanse of the Ohio.
Charlestown, the county seat of Clark, is situated two
liles from the Ohio, 29 miles south of west from Madi-
on, and 14 miles above the Falls. It is one of the most
ourishing and neatly built towns in the state ; contains
bout 160 houses, chiefly of brick, a handsome court
ouse, and is inhabited by an industrious class of citizens,
here are numerous plantations around this town, con-
isting of good land, and better cultivated, perhaps, than
ny in the state. Tliis tract is within the grant made
y the state of Virginia, to the brave soldiers, who, un-
er tiie celebrated general Clark, in the revolutionary
var, by conquering the British troops and their savage
lilies, subjected the western country to the jurisdiction
120 INDIANA.
of the United States. A large portion of the fSrrant, so
called, containing many thousand acres, is covered with
a heavy growth of beech timber, considerably intermixed
with sugar maple, and divers other speSies of trees. —
The soil is very productive in fruit trees, wheat, and
English grasses.
Jeffersonville stands just above the Falls, on the Avest
bank of the Ohio. The noise, and the sight of the waters
tumbling over the precipices below, together with a view
of the town of Louisville, on the opposite shore, present
a scenery at once variegated, romantic, picturesque and
grand. The town is built on the second bottom, above
the highest floods, affording a complete view of the river.
The nonresidence of the proprietors (of whom many are
minors) of town lots and of the adjacent country, has
hitherto much checked the prosperity of this delightful
spot. Of the buildings, wluch are not very numerous,
some are designed and executed in a neat and elegantj
style, particularly the mansion which was the residence
of the late Gov. Posey. A land office, a post office and
a printing office are established in this town.
A canal is projected, to commence a few rods east of
Jeffersonville, at the mouth of a ravine, thence through
the back lots of the town, terminating at an eddy, at the
foot of the rapids, by the town of Clarksville. To effect
this purpose, the legislature of Indiana, in January 1818,
incorporated the Jeffersonville Ohio Canal Company, with
a capital of §1,000,000 ; and granted them permission to
raise §100,000 by lottery. In May, 1819, a survey and
location haying been pl"e^iously m.ade, the excavation was
commenced, and continues to be prosecuted with spirit,
and tlie fairest prospects of success. The extent of this
canal ^vill be 2^ miles ; the average depth 45 feet; width
INDIANA. 121
t top 100, and at bottom 50 feet. Except one-fourth of
mile at the upper end, |here is a bed of rock to be cut
hrough, 10 or 12 feet deep. The charter, which expires
n 1899, requires that the canal should be completed be-
"bre the end of 'the year 1 824. The perpendicular height
n the whole extent of the falls being about 23 feet, the
;anal is expected to furnish excellent mill seats, and a
(vater power sufficient to drive machinery for very ex-
ensive manufacturing establishments.
In navigating the Ohio, the saving of time, expencei,
and waste of property, by means of a canal, to a great
xtent above the falls, is incalculable. It has been esti-
nated, that Cincinnati jjone, for several years past, has
)aid an extraordinary expence for transporting goods
iround the falls, exceeding 850,000. The several states
^ordering on the river above, are each interested in the
uccess of this great undertaking, and it is presumed they
will liberally contribute their aid to perfect it. Tlie ter-
ritoi'y and population to be benefitted by this work, is so
xtensive, strong hopes have been entertained that som*
adequate provision will be made by the general govern-
ment. Capital cannot, perhaps, at the present day, be
vested in any public funds that will yield a more produc-
tive regular income, than in this establishment.
^ew-Mhany, the seat of justice for Floyd county, is
4^ miles below JeiFersonville, on the bank of the Ohio, on
an extensive plain of rich bottom lands. From the first
settlement of this town, its progress was rather slow, until
within two or three of the last years ; since which period
it has flourished greatly. The front street is more than
three-quarters of a mile in length ; the number of houses,
of which several are spacious and elegant, are supposed
to exceed 150 j a steam grist and saw mill, each of whick
12S INDIANA.
perform extensive business, are a great advantage to the
town and surrounding country. A spirit of enterprise
and industry seems generally to animate the inhabitants,
and to exhibit the appearance of a brisk, business-doing
place. Floyd was erected into a county in the winter of
1818, out of the counties of Clark and Harrison.
Cory don, the seat of justice for the county of Harri^;
son, is also the present capital of the state, the constitu-
tion having appointed it the seat of legislation until 1825.
Distant from New- Albany, northwest, 21 miles ; from the
nearest point of the Ohio, about 13 — lays between the
forks of Indian creek, at their junction — is surrounded
by elevated ground, of gentle ascent— contains 8 or 10
neat buildings, beside many others which are ordinary j
a spacious court house of stone, which is occupied by the
legislature during their session. The supreme court is
holden at this place, exclusively.
A few miles from the town, north, nortlieast and north-j
west, an extensive tract of land, called the barrens, com-
mences, and spreads out in divers directions, in some
points several miles — the surface commonly undulating
—-occasionally are deep sink holes, resembling half-filled
wells — the growth is scattering, small oak shrubs, with
here and there small clumps of oak trees, of a moderate
size ; a coarse, short, wild grass, grateful to cattle and
sheep, overspreads the ground ; the soil in some parts
thin and sterile, but generally productive of good crops
of corn, small grain, clover and timothy. Tlie region of
these barrens is remarkable for caverns, some of wliich
are spacious, from five to fifty feet in height from tlie
flooring ; the bottom, roof and walls of flat limestone—
the latter often as perpendicular as the walls of a room^^
It is not uncommon to find streams large enough to drive
INDIANA. 133
mill briskly, pouring their waters over the bottoms of
dese caves. "Small oaks.of, a tolerable height, as thinly
cattered as the apple trees in an orchard, usually com-
aence at the termination of the barrens, and extend for
good distance, sometimes for the space of two or three
liles. This description, it is conceived, will apply to
aost of the barrens in the state.
After the constitutional term expires, the seat of gov-
rnment will be removed from Corydon into the interior,
)robably on or near the West Fork of Whiteriver, within
he late purchase — Congress having granted to the state
our square miles, for a permanent seat of legislation, to
)e selected by the state from the public lauds. Fixing
he temporary seat of government at Corydon has not
,0 much contributed to the prosperity of the town as waa
ixpected. Being without any water communication with
he Ohio, one and the nearest of the great high ways of
he west, Corydon is unfortunately located within that
^rade of distance from navigable water — where towns
lave never been known to flourish in this country — not
50 near as to enjoy the advantage of a river market, and
lot distant enough to obtain the country custom. The
latural situation of the place, however, presents a scenery
that attracts the attention of a stranger — a level bottom,
encompassed by two fine never failing streams of water,
and surrounded by high grounds, gradually rising like
an amphitheatre.
Salem, the capital of Washington county, a new but
flourishing town, S4 miles north of Corydon, and 25 north
west of Jeffersonville, stands on a small branch of Blue
river, and contains a decent court house, of brick, 80 or
90 houses, some of which are neat buildings. Around
this town is an extensive tract of land, of a superior
1S4 INDIANA.
quality, covered with a thick growth of stately forest
trees.
Brownstown, the seat of justice for the county of Jack-
son, 25 miles north of Salem, is situated near the eastern
branch of Whiteiiver, on the eastern side, a short distance
from the boundary line of the late purchase. The soil
around Brownstown consists of a gray sandy loam ; \\(
is very friable, and not liable to bake and harden by the
heat of the sun. This spot appears to be without the
limits of the calcareous region — on a strip of land from
two to five miles in width, and from eight to fifteen in
length, scarcely any limestone ai-e to be found. Within
a mile of the town are large quantities of iron ore, the
best which has been discovered in the state. This town
was laid off in the midst of the forest, only three or four .
years ago, and the greater part of the houses are cabbin3.
Faoli, the county seat of Orange, is about 70 milea
castwardly of Vincennes, and 40 northwest of Jefferson-
ville, near the centre of a large tract of valuable lands*
The place where the town stands, but three or four years
ago, was covered with large forest trees.
Fredonia, a post town in the county of Crawford, 42
miles below the Falls, is situated in the great Horse-sJioe
Bend, on an elevated plain, commanding an extensive
and romantic prospect of the Ohio. A convenient paS'
sage way is opened by nature, through the rocks, to the
river ; which is here very bold on the western shore, form-
ing a fine eddy. Between the town and the river are
a series of horizontal benches, terminating next the town
in solid, perpendicular rock, where vines and fruit treef'
Blight be cultivated. There is a spring of good watdr
near the centre of the town. In the ledges near the town;
are abundance of good free stone. The town occupies
^INDIANA.
125
19 healthy a situation as any spot on the Ohio, and is so
situated, in a great bend of the river, which projects so far
;o the north, at this place, as to cause it to be the nearest
convenient accesSW^ point of navigable waters for a great
;xtent of country round. Its position, and the face of
he country on each side of the river, for many miles, is
avorable for much travel across from Kentucky and the
.outhern states into the interior of Indiana. The town
aying about the centre of Indiana, on the river, is suppo-
sed to be as near a point as any on the Ohio, to the spot
vhich may be located for the permanent seat of govern-
nent. It is believed that for 50 or 60 miles, no other
pot on the river unites so many natural conveniences for
I town. The settlement here was not commenced until
he fall of 1818.
Levenwoi'thvilie, about a mile below Blue river, is a
lew town in Crawford county, on the bank of the Ohio,
containing a few houses.
Mount Sterling, the county seat for Crawford, is loca-
;ed in the woods, and contains a few cabbins; it is about
iight miles northwest of Fredonia.
Washington, the seat of justice for Davies county, is
lituated 20 miles east of Vincennes, 4 miles from the
lorth, and l€ from the south fork of Whiteriver, in the
entre of a large body of excellent land, lying within tlie
orks of the river ; its being thus intersected by those
lavigable streams, affords peculiar facilities for exporting
lie produce of the country, which is well supplied with
nany small streams of good water, and interspersed with
several rich prairas.
Merom stands on a high bank of the Wabash, called
he Bluffs, opposite Le Motte praira, in Illinois. The
latural situation is very pleasant, near large bodies of
1^6 INDIANA.
stone coal. It is the seat of justice for Sullivan countyi
which consists of a beautiful, fertile, well watered tract
of country, through which flows for a considerable extent,
the waters of the Wabash. Here are-^pacious prairas of
the first quality, and a number of very large, productive
plantations. Among the prairas are included the Honey
creek. Fort Harrison and Praira creek prairas, all which
present a most delightful scenery ; the surface admitting
of excellent roads, at all seasons of the year, and the soil
equal to any portion of the western country. These na-
tural advantages have speedily produced an influx of
population, and a degree of improvement, which has been
rarely equalled in the west.
Terre Haute, within the same county, about two miles
below fort Harrison, is delightfully situated on a high,
bank of the Wabash, with a gradual descent to the river,
along which extends a skut of woodland near a mile in
width. It was laid out in 1816, and is rapidly increasing^
its population and extending its improvements. '
Shakertown, settled by that industrious class of people
called Shakers, lays at the lower end of the county, near
the mouth of tlie Busseron, 1 5 miles above Vincennes. '
Vincennes, the earliest settlement between Kaskaski*
and Pittsburgh, is pleasantly situated on the west bank
of the Wabash, being the seat of justice for the county of
Knox, and formerly the seat of legislation for the teni*
tory of Indiana. It was settled by French emigrants itt
17S5, who in the remote recesses of a wilderness, isola-
ted from the civilized world, formerly approximated in
manner and appearance to the savage tribes around them,
having scarcely any intercourse with other people — ^they
have, however, since their acquaintance with the Ameii*
cans, much improved their eondition, and among them
INDIANA. 1S7
ly now be found intelli^eHt men, who have resumed
uch of that urbanity of manners peculiar to Frenchmen.
Vincennes, by the serpentine course of the Wabash, is
slant from the mouth of that river 152 miles ; while
om Evansville, the nearest point of the Ohio, it is but 54,
is the most populous town in the state — and although
ng stationary, from causes not within its control, it is
)W, under the fostering care of a free government, by
e accession of a class of intelligent and enterprising
habitants, developing its natural resources, by a rapid
crease of population, and an extension of various im-
)rtant branches of business. Wm. Fellows & Co. have
lilt a large steam grist and saw mill, and are erecting
e present year (1819) twelve spacious brick buildings,
he town contains about 300 dwelling houses, a court
mse of brick, a jail, a spacious neat brick seminary, two
aces for public worship, bne Presbyterian and one Ro-
an Catholic, a public land office, a post office, a bank^
id two printing offices.
Princeton, the seat of justice for the county of Gibson^
miles southerly from Vincennes, is a flourishing little
wn, very recently commenced. About one half of this
aunty consists of a soil remarkably good ; tlie residue is
jcond rate. It is watered by the Wabash and White
vers, and some of their tributary streams.
EocTcport, so named from its being situated upon a
)ck, which presents a high bold front on the Ohio,
ommands a romantic prospect of the river. This town,
?hich is but just commenced, is the seat of justice for
pencer, one of the best counties in the state.
Evansville stands on a bend in the Ohio, at the mouth
f Big Pigeon creek, 54 miles south of Vincennes, and 45
iiles above the mouth of the Wabash, It is the seat of
438 INDIANA.
justice for Vandeburgh county. This town is in the vi-
cinity of a large tract of excellent land, and acquires an
importance from being the nearest and most convenient
landing for emigrants bound up the Wabash. This is
considered among the best natural situations for mer-
cantile business in the state.
Harmony, 54 miles below Vincennes, and 106 by water
above the mouth of the Wabash, stands on the bank of
that i:iver, and is the capital of Posey, the southwestern
county of the state. It was settled in 1814, by a religious
sect of Germans, denominated Harmonists, now consist-
ing of nearly 800 inhabitants. They were first established
about 20 miles from Pittsburgh, whence they removed ta
this place, where they possess several thousand acres of
good land, in a body ; which is held in the name of Geo.
Rapp, their head man and religious teacher, as he alleges,
for the common use of the whole. These j>eople are re-
markable for the observance of the rules prescribed by
their leader, wliom they call father, and in whose name
all purchases and sales are made ; they are remarkable
for their regularity, industry and skill in the mechanic
arts — are cultivators of the grape vine, and manufacture
several kinds of excellent cloths.
Elvers and principnl streams. — The Great ISIiami,
Ohio and Wabash rivers, which constitute a considerable
portion of the boundary lines of Indiana, are to be found
described in our preliminary remai'ks. The meanderings
of the Ohio in passing the width of the state (in a right
line but 155 miles) are reckoned 472 miles in extent.
Whitewater, flowing with a rapid current of pure wa-^
ter, generally over a sandy, pebbly bottom, draws its foun-
tain from two chief branches : the east heading near Ohio
western boundary, in tliat state, a few miles west of
INDIANA* * 129
reenville ; the west takes its origin in the flat lands, 39
lies westofBrookville, just below which town the two
•anches form a junction, and after running about fifty
iles in a southerly direction, empty into the Great
[iami 4^ miles in a right line from its confluence with
e Ohio. ^
Next below, on the Ohio, in course as named, are
anner's, Wilson's, Hogan's (the two main branches of
hich unite within one hundred rods from the mouth,)
aughry's, Arnold's and Grant's creeks, all within the
»unty of Deaiborn. Indian creek, the southern boun-
iry of the Swiss settlement, is seven miles above the
outh of Kentucky river. Silver creek joins the Ohio
short distance belov/ the Falls. Wyandot is equidistant
om the Falls and Blue river.
The Big Blue river, aftej meandering 50 miles south-
est, bends to the east of south, and empties into the
liio, 32 miles below the mouth of Salt river.
Idttle Bliie river finds its source in the hills which
drt the Ohio, and forming several cascades, the decUv-
ies of which furnish convenient mill seats, meets the
hio about 12 miles below the mouth of Big Blue river,
en miles below the former is Sirfking creek.
Andersorcs river, 60 miles further down, is the largest
ream between Blue river and tiie W^ abash. Piqua and
eaver creeks join the Ohio below. Many fine streams
■ water, affording convertient mill seats, intersect the
)untry between White river and tiie Ohio.
The main branch of the Wahush heads two miles east
f fort St. Mary's, in Dark county, Ohio. Of the three
ther branches, the one called Little river heads seven
iles south of fort Wayne, and enters the Wabash 80
iles below St. Mary's portage. The east is the Massis-
130 INDIAJTA.
siniivay, heading equidistant from forts Greenville anc
Recovery, and reaches the Wabash 5 miles below th(
mouth of Little river. The third is Eel river, issuin;
from several lakes and ponds 18 miles west of For
Wayne, and joins the Wabash eight miles below thi
mouth of the Massisinaway.
The whole range of country traversed by the vvateF o
the Wabash, is remarkable for its destitution of hills
and prominences.
Petoka, a small river, running a west course, abou
75 miles through rich bottom, falls into the Wabasl
four miles below White river.
White River meanders nearly across the state south
westwardly, supplying with water and fertilizing a larg
body of good land, and joins the Wabash 16 miles beloT
Vincennes ; 35 miles above the mouth the two princips
branches unite, called North or Driftwood-Fork, and th
South or Muddy-Fork. ■'
Deche River comes into the Wabash about half wa
between Vincennes and the mouth of White,river, flow
ing from the north east ; it is a rapid, short stream.
Little River, in a serpentine course from the northeas
over wide spread bottoms, flows into the Wabash, a shoi
distance above Vincennes. Bet^vfeen this and the Dech
a rich bottom expands to a great extent.
*S'^ Marie flows from the north east 60 miles, joinin
the AVabash 18 miles above Vincennes.
Rocky River, 60 miles above St. Marie, interweavin
its branches with those of the main fork of White rivei
directs its course to the Wabash — is 100 yards wide t
its mouth, anfl branches into several forks.
The Fonime meets tlie Wabash about 100 miles abo>
the Rocky river — rises near the eastern boundaiy of tl
INDIANA.
131
ate, not much north of the souixes of Whitewater,
jsules the above rivers, are a number of small streams,
at water the country on the southeast branch of the
'^abash. The other side, however, is more abundant
large water courses.
On tlie northwest side, 10 miles below the Pomme, is
chards creek ; 10 miles still below is Rock river with
^h bapks, flowing through a country rather broken.
Tippacanoe, comes in 8 miles below Rock river, on
lich was fought the bloody battle of November, 1811,
th the savages. Near the confluence of this river with
Wabash, on both streams, are several Indian villages,
th extensive cultivated fields.
Above the Tippacanoe are Pine and Redwood creeks ;
joicing or Vermillion, Jaune, Little Vermillion, Era-
ere, Duchet's, and Breuette rivers ; at an interval of
m eight to fifteen miles of each other ; all flowing from
west or north west, mostly small, and heading in
state of Illinois. The rivers of Cyhanin, Big and Lit-
Kemomic, which flow to lake Michigan ; the Thea-
i, Kickapoo, and a part of the chief branches of Illi-
s river, all meander through the north western part
the state ; and all, except the last, entirely within its
ndaries : the three first running from south to north ;
latter, south and southwest. The Vermillion of Illi-
s rises in Indiana, near the sources of Tippacanoe.
ef e are many smaller streams not enumerated. The
ders of the Michigan lake, within the state, are well
:ered by tlie numerous forks of Black river and St.
eph's, of lake Michigan ; the latter heading near, and
jrlocking with the branches of Eel river, and pursu-
a winding course 70 miles through the northern part
ndiana.
13,3 INDIANA.
The northern half of the state is interspersed with
great number of lakes — 38 of which, from two to te
miles in length, have been delineated on maps. Th
actual number is supposed to exceed 100. Some haAi
two distinct out-lets ; one running into the northern lake
the other into the Mississippi. The greatest number (
these lakes are between the head waters of the two S
Joseph's, Black, Raisin, Tippacauoe and Eel rivers.
ILLINOIS.
The state of Illinois is bounded north by tlie Nortli-
i^est Territory, east by Indiana, south by the Ohio, which
eparates it from Kentucky, and west by the Mississippi :
3ng. 10° 17' to 14° 17' lat.Sr° to 41° 55' north— 345
liles long from north to south, and 220 from east to west
-containing about 50,000 square miles. The Ohio,
Vabash and Mississippi constitute nearly three-fourths
f the extent of boundary of this state.
Face of the country, soil, Sfc. — The southern and mid-
le sections of this state are partly level and partly
aiving, with gentle swells. It has been estimated, that
bout two-thirds of the whole territory is occupied by
rairas. Of those prairas there are two distinct species !
le one, low, wet and flat, occasionally cold and unpro-
uctive, contributing to form the sources of streams, and
diibiting the appearance of being the bottom of lakes,
ng since drained or dried up, and covered with a
sry coarse, tall grass. Of this kind, there are few in
lis state. The other species is from 25 to 80 feet higher ;
snsisting, commonly, of a deep, strong, dry, warm, dark
alored, sandy loam, that has been formerly covered with
mber, long since killed and consumed by fires, kindled
id supported by dead grass, spread over the surface ;
hich fires, in dry seasons, destroy the preceding growth
i" young trees, and gradually encroach on the surround-
g forests. By these means the spaces of the prairas ai-e
M
'SyT
134 ILLINOIS.
constantly enlarged. The upland prairas yield grasses
from two to six feet high ; which, though coarse and wild,
aftbrd excellent food for cattle, both in a green and dry
state.
The eastern boundary of Illinois, leaves the Wabash
about sixteen miles below fort Harrison. From that point
to the mouth, the country bordering on the Wabash, is
distinguishable from other regions in the west, that lie
near most of the great rivers, by the absence of hills and
high banks. The country is generally level, and so flat,
that much of it is overflowed by high waters, from 100
rods to two or three miles wide. The lands are, how-
ever, covered with a rich soil, and afibrd many valuable
sites for plantations.
The northeastern part of Illinois, is covered with im-
mense tracts of prairas ; some of which are extended over
broad swells of land, so elevated as to aftbrd to a specta-
tor, a distinct vision of some of the rivers and flat land*
in the remotest parts of the state. But, what is singular,
even the highest prairas are supposed to be too wet foi^
plough fields : they seem designed by nature, as sources
from whence to supply many of the tributary streams,
which form tlie sheet of waters, that in a manner sur*
jound the state. The greater portion of this tract is wet
praira, well calculated for the raising of stock ; the sur»
face generally rolling, sometimes elevated to swells,
which though of gentle ascent, are spread out so as to
occupy much space.
|> > The soil over most of this country, is deep and rich ;
the water plenty and timber scarce.
The northwestern part of the state, is a hilly, uneven
country ; whence several tributary streams, which flow
from the north into the Wabash, have their source.
ILLINOIS. 135
From Vincennes to Carlisle on the Kaskaskia, 106
miles ou the route to St. Louis, is rich, dry, praira land ;
the soil from two to five feet deep ; without wood, ex-
cept the skirts bordering on water courses. The first
ten miles includes Ellison's praira, on the river Embarras;
an excellent tract. The largest praira, through which the
public road passes, in this direction, called the Grand
Prau-a, is 22 miles wide, and reaches within three miles
of Carlisle. The whole extent of country from the Em-
barrass, is scantily supplied with streams of water : and
those few which traverse the counti-y, are generally ex-
hausted in the dry summer months. This whole tract
appears to be without the calcareous region ;. no lime-
stone being discoverable, and but few substances formed
of calcareous earths. The next strata to the soil, which
is a black, sandy loam, is red clay mixed with fine sand,
from five to ten feet deep. The third strata is a hard,
dark blue clay, mixed with pebbles, and so strongly im-
pregnated with sulphur and copperas, as to emit a fetid,
offensive smell. The only water which can be obtained
from the wells in most of this country, though consider-
ed not injurious to health, is rendered disgustful, by the
impregnation of sulphur and copperas.
From the Kaskaskia, at Carlisle, to St. Louis, 54 miles,
is a limestone country — the surface somewhat broken —
less praira, stronger soil, better water, and more wood,
than on the last mentioned tract.
Between Edwardsville and the military bounty lands,
the space over the American bottom, for 8 miles, is first rate
praira ; the remaining distance, 28 miles, is considerably
broken ; the soil gravel, except on the high ridges, rather
thin, and well supplied with wood and water. In the
bluffs, near Edwardsville and Alton, are large quantities
of good stone coal.
l36 II^LINOIS.
A range of hills, from three to five miles wide, extend,
next the Ohio bottoms, from the Wabash nearly to the
Mississippi ; frequently I'ising into bluffs, on the banks of
the Ohio, to the height of 100 feet. North of these hills,
for a considerable distance, nearly parallel therewith, is
a chain of swamps, not of great width, that might be
drained, filled with clear water, produced from springs
that do not stagnate, and covered with a large growth of
cypress trees.
The American bottom, in width from two to eight
miles, extending on the Mississippi, from the Kaskaskia
to within 5 miles of the Missouri, being in length, by
the course of the river, about 100 miles, has been formed
by the alluvion of the Mississippi, and is one of the rich-
est tracts in the world : some of it has produced crops,
in annual succession, without manuring, and with not the
least perceptible impoverishment of the soil, for more
than a century. The bluffs, bounding the American bot-
tom, are from 100 to 300 feet high ; presenting a perpen-
dicular front to the river, of limestone ; but sloping east-
wardly two or three miles : the soil is second rate, much
broken into sink holes; the growth of timber, oak.
From the mouth of the Missouri to the mouth of the
Illinois, about 25 miles, the eastern shore is bordered by
hills, from 80 to 100 feet high. Above the latter river,
the hills are of a more gentle ascent.
The Military Bounty Lands are located between the
rivers Mississippi and Illinois, in the foi-m of an irregular
curvilinear triangle ; and extend, from their junction, on
astraiglit line, north, 169 miles. The whole tract sur-
veyed is about 5,360,000 acres ; exceeding, by nearly
2,000,000 acres, the quantity appropriated by Congress
for soldiers' bounties ; which was 3,500,000. On each of
ILLINOIS. 137
these livers, for nearly 100 miles above their confluence,
much of the bottomlands, of which there are large quan-
tities, are overflowed by the high waters. Next to these
bottoms, for an indefinite width, and occasionally, (near
the southern extremity) from river to river, from two to
six miles, in the course of the respective rivers, is a
range of high lands, broken into hills and knobs, commonly
of a thin soil, with here and there intervals of level spa-
ces : most of the latter are covered with a strong, deep
soil.
As we proceed to the north-east, beyond this region,
;he surface of the Bounty Lands becomes more conve-
lient for cultivation, having gentle undulations ; and
nany of the prairas in this tract are exceeding rich, skirt-
d by wood-lands of a good width — well watered, and
xhibiting a delightful scenery. But these qualities of
oil and surface, are not to be considered as extensively
niform : they are subject to various exceptions. For a
«neral description of the Bounty Lands, it may be ob-
erved, that they are abundantly accommodated with
i^ood and good water ; some large portions are too low
nd wet for cultivation, or salutary to health ; other parts,
f considerable extent, are overspread with abrupt hills
nd high knobs : but, that with considerable exceptions,
le whole tract is covered with a good soil.
On the river Embarras, which joins the Wabash eight
liles westwardly of Vincennes, is a large tract of excel-
;nt land, well timbered, with the exception of a small
ortion of praira. On the public road leading from Yin-
ennes to Missouri, three miles east of the Embarras, is
flourishing settlement of eastern emigrants, who are
P a religious sect denominated Christians. They are
cated on Elli8ons§ praira, which is the fiist rate of that
138 ILLINOIS.
species of land, and is skirted by a sufficient width of
the most valuable wood and timber. The industry of
those people, and the fertility of the soil they occupy,
enables them to furnish provisions at a cheap rate, to
emigrants traversing the extensive tract of unpeopled
country, east from the mouth of tlie Missouri ; through
which there are places on the road, from 20 to 30 miles,
destitute of a dwelling house.
The region between the Big and Little Wabash, west
of the latter, occupies a space of from 15 to 25 miles wide,
which is covered by an excellent soil. The largest part
of this tract has lately been surveyed, and will be short-
ly offered for sale. Much of the land bordering on the
two rivers is attended with the inconvenience of being
occasionally flooded by the high waters — But at some
distance from the banks, the high lands afford handsome
and valuable situations for farms, particularly on landrf
near the Bumpaw creek. The prevailing growth of tira^i
ber is hickory, black M'alnut, ash, elm, oak, hackberry,
cotton wood, honey locust, and sugar maple. Such parts
as are subject to inundation, and other low rich tracts,
covered with a thick growth of wild vegetables, or of
fruit trees, are considered very unfavorable to health in
summer months.
At the confluence of the Wabash with the Ohio, are
many thousand acres of rich bottom land, most of which
is chiefly flooded during the period of high waters.
The lands bordering on the waters of the Kaskaskia,
which derives its source near the centre of the state, are
of a superior quality. They are finely situated and
form a surface convenient for cultivation — neither flat
nor mountainous, but possess a medium, undulating in
gentle swellst Through this delightfri region, the navx-
ILLINOIS. 139
•able waters of the Kaskaskia, flow southwardly more
han 130 miles and discharge themselves in the Missis-
ippi, about 100 miles above the mouth of the Ohio.—
The tributary streams which intersect the country, af-
brds many convenient mill seats. The seat of govern-
nent for this new state is located on the banks of this
iver, in 39° 7' north latitude. This intended metropolis,
vhich is named Vandalia, is about 83 miles from St.
^jouis, and about 95 miles northeastwardly from Kas-
caskia.
The Parasaw creek commences its source between
and 50 miles east of the Illinois, and running south-
ivardiy in a serpentine course, discharges its waters into
Uie Mississippi, between 30 and 40 miles from its head,
an a straight line, about ten miles below the mouth of the
Uinois. It is a small stream, and navigable only a few
miles up. Some excellent bottom lands of a moderate
extent, form the margin of this creek ; but much of the
soil on the bordering high lands is thin ; the forest trees
consisting of a handsome growth of oak and hickory.
A species of wild grass which affords a tolerable forage
for cattle, covers the surface of the ground. The lan-
guor and muddiness of the stream in the dry seasons,
render the water nearly stagnant, and produce an un-
favorable effect on health. There are, however, some
excellent sites for plantations unoccupied, scattered
over this tract, which has lately been surveyed. Mr.
Moffat, from New-York, and some Irish families, have
commenced a settlement on one branch of this creek.—
High bluffs from one to two miles in width, extend two
or three miles from below the creek, in one continuous
ridge, on the margin of the Mississippi, to about five
miles above the mouth of the Illinois j with the exx:ep-
140 ILLINOIS.
tion of intervals caused by the mouths of rivulets, enter-
ing the Mississippi, and a space of narrow bottom, two
or three miles long, below the Illinois, occupied by three
or four French families.
A branch of the Grand Praira, which lies between Vin-
cennes and St. Louis, before described, commences
about 12 miles northeast of the Parasaw, and extends
17 miles in length, (the width not exactly known) to
lands bordering on the Mac open creek. This praira is
interspersed with divers clusters of good timber trees,
occupying from one to five acres each. In some places
it approaches within 200 rods of the Parasaw. The soil
is generally good, excepting near that stream, a space of
about six miles square, is thinly covered with small
stinted oaks ; which may be considered rather a barren
than a praira. Here the surface is more rolling and the
grass shorter, than on the other parts of the praira. In
this tract of barren, some springs of water are to be found ;
but not so frequently as on the praira ; where the sur-
face is varied into broad, gentle swells, so as to make
the scenery pleasant and the cultivation convenient.
The Grand Praira is bottomed on a yellow, loamy clay,
which form a kind of pan, that will render the fertility
of the soil durable. It will also render it abundantly
productive of English grasses, such as clover, timothy,
spear and red top. It has been ascertained, that prairas,
whose strata, next the soil is composed of sand, of which
kind there are several in the western country, although
they produce good crops of corn and small grain, will
not nourish English grasses. The best parts of the
Grand Praira, are covered by a black, sandy loam which
is not drenched by heavy rains, nor baked by ardent
suns. The wild grass, which makes excellent fodder for
ILLINOIS. 141
ttle, grows here with great luxuriance ; and the soil
easy penetrated with the plough. There being no
ignant pools, and the water being exceedingly pure,
Id and limpid, there is perhaps, no part of the United
atcs where better health may be enjoyed. That this
nation is highly salubrious, is proved from the resi-
nce of divers families for several years, whom the
cellent quality of the soil induced to settle there, long
fore the lands were surveyed. Some of the head
iters of the Macopen creek take their rise from the
and Praira.
About ten miles southeast of Illinois, and east of the
ississippi, is a tract of beautiful land, consisting of
lat is called the Mound Praira, from 400 ^o 600 rods
de, and from four to five miles long. The soil is of
' first quality, well supplied with water, and the sur-
nding upland is covered with a handsome growth of
iber tiees. On this tract is settled six families, who
nmenccd their improvements before the land was sur-
'^ed.
5ix townships square, being in the whole 36 townships,
bracing the Parasaw country, the Grand Praira, the
und Praira and the Macopen country, were sur-
ed during the winter and spring of 1819, and were,
August the present year, exposed to sale. Nearly
families had settled here before the lands were sur-
ed. This tract lies at, and below the junction of the
lois with the Mississippi, bordering on the latter 15
the former 36 miles.
?he alluvial margins of the Illinois are in many places
msive, and become lower as they gradually recede
the river ; and the waters overflowing large por-
s of these bottoms, after the river shrinks within its
14^
ILLINOIS.
banks, finding no return passage, become stagnant it
the warmer seasons, and contaminating the air witl
tlie noxious particles M'liich are exhaled from the mia&
mata, produce agues and summer fevers. *
About 25 miles from the mouth of the Illinois, on the
east bank of the Mississippi, 25 miles above St. Louis
is situated Alton. This town lies west of EdwardsvilU
10 miles, and was located in 1816. Nearly 100 decen
houses are already erected. The spirit of enterprise dis'
played by the settlers, who are mostly from the easten
states, and the natural advantages attached to the place
point out this town as a stand where small capitals ii
trade may be profitably vested. The soil of the sur
rounding lands is of a middling quality ; the face oftR
country rolling j the prevailing growth, walnut, hickorj
and oak ; the ground generally overspread among th
trees with an excellent kind of wild grass, by some cal
led red top, which grows tall and luxuriant, and whethe
green or well hayed, makes good food for cattle^*-
Among the forest trees, which are tall and thinly sei
the settlers mow and make into hay large quantities fo
winter forage. The same kind of grass in that part o
the country is spread out under the fruit ti'ees for hun
dreds of miles in every direction. When well cured
the hay is esteemed equal to timothy.
Two miles from Alton, at a place called Wallace':
• mills, on Wood creek, which empties into the Mississiri
pi, is the little town of Milton, on the route from Alton
by Edwardsville, to Vincennes. This place contain
about 50 houses, and although it seems to flourish, it i
considered an unhealthy situation. The creek her
drives both a grist and saw mill ; each of which do gret
business. The soil extending from this town to S
ILLINOIS. 14B
.ouis, 24 miles, is mostly excellent, being all bottom
md, except the six miles praiia, Avhich is one and half
liles wide, surrounded by trees of a handsome growth.
!'he greater part of the last described tract, is covered
^ith settlements made since the United States acquired
right to the soil. A peculiar disease among the cattle
revails here, which the people call milk sick, that pro-
uces in beasts strange tremulous motions, and so strong-
ly affects them, as often to prove mortal. No where,
xcept at this place and about the mouth of the Missouri,
as this disorder made its appearance. The milk of
ows thus affected, has proved injurious and sometimes
ortal to those who drink it.
Edwardsville is the seat of justice for Madison county.
: lies eight miles from Milton, and 20 miles north east
om St. Louis ; is a flourishing town, containing 60 or
houses, a court house, jail, public bank, printing of-
ce, which issues a weekly newspaper, and a United
tates land office, of which colonel Stevens is the Regis-
;r. As this county embraces all the lands above, east
f the Mississippi, and all the bounty lands in Illinois,
jldiers' patents and grants of Illinois bounty lands are
^coi-ded here. In the vicinity of this town is a society
Methodists. There is an extensive tract of land
round this spot, of an excellent quality ; on which
lauy plantations have been opened. But, unfortunately
)r settlers, the most valuable tracts have been monopo-
zed by speculating men, who are non-residents.
A few miles north-northeast from Edwardsville are
'hoal and Silver creeks ; bordering on which streams
re extensive tracts of good lands, that are settling fast.
Carlisle is situated on the west bank of the Kaskaskia,
ram Edwardsville 50 miles, on the public road leading
444 ILLINOIS.
bj that place from St. Louis to Vincennes. This is a
central position, being also on the route from Shawnee-
town to St. Louis. Carlisle, though but lately commen-
ced, is in a flourishing condition. It is accessible by
loaded boats from the Mississippi, in a good stage of -j^
water. The country, for many miles around, is covered
by a rich soil, consisting of good uplands and beautiful
prairas, conveniently skirted with wood, and supplied
with good water. Large portions of these lands are yet
vacant, and hold out flattering prospects to settlers.
Macopen, Apple and Otter ci-eeks, discharge themselves
into the Illinois, from the northeast, near together, from
25 to 30 miles above the mouth of the Illinois. Except
within a few miles of that river, the lands on all these
streams are of an excellent quality, and the situation
remarkably healthy. Of sixty families which the autlior
found on that tract, in the sickly months of 1818, not
one single person was out of health. The public survey
of these lands was completed in the spring of 1819.—
Macopen is navigable 24 miles from its mouth, and by
removing flood wood, boats might pass many miles fur-
ther up. The land within the distance of 10 or 12 miles
of the Illinois, is but ordinary second rate, and though
well watered, is broken and hilly : but eastwardly of this
space, the face of the country is variegated by gentle
swells — the soil of a superior quality, well supplied with
rivulets and fine springs of pure water, a good proportion
of praira and wood, and the whole presenting a charm-
ing rural scenery. The number and variety of plants,
gi'owing in the prairas, produce blossoms of every hue,
if! succession. One species of flov/er expanding its blos-
soms as another decays, constantly exhibits vegetable
nature, through the long summer season, in her gayest
* ILLINOIS. 145
attire. There the senses of sight and smell find their
highest gratification, while the mind of the spectator
is vastly amused in beholding thousands of the busy in-
sects extracting their, nectareous food and winter stores,
from tlie spontaneous bounty of a provident creator. —
This wonderful provision for millions of honey-bees,
gives them the means of replenishing the hollow trees
of the forest with honey, of which the inhabitants, with
little care or toil, gather barrels yearly.
A tract of land, extending on the Mississippi Bluffs
bordering the bottom lands near Alton, from 10 to 15
miles wide, eastwardly, and on bluffs bordering the Illi-
nois bottoms, northwardly, from 30 to 40 miles in length,
is of a waving surface- — the growth of trees, hickory
and oak, sti-aight and tall, but thinly set ; springs and
good water, rare. The soil, over some parts, rather
thin, is of a dark gray, sandy loam, bedded on a yellow,
sandy clay, excepting where the Parasaw, Otter, Meco-
pen and Apple creeks flow through, the margins of which
consist partly of good bottom' and partly of hills and
knobs.
The river Satigamo discharges its waters into the
Illinois, on the east side, about 140 miles from its conflu-
ence with the Mississippi. The Sangamo, at its junc-
tion with the former river, is 100 yards wide ; and is
navigable nearly 140 miles ; its current bold and active,
over a gravelly bottom ; its general course about west ;
is fed by various tributary streams, which intersect, in
divers directions, one of the finest countries in Nortl*
America. These waters, like mountain streams, clear
and pure, flowing over beds of pebbles, furnish numerous
cascades, that form excellent-mill seats. The southern
branches interlock with the head waters of streams, that
N
146 ILLINOIS. ■ ¥ ^
iningle with the Kaskaskia and tlie Wabash. The tract
di-auied by the Sangamo and its tributaries, seems to dis-
play as encliaiiting a rural scenery as could be painted
by tlie fairest fancy of a poet or a writer of romance. —
The extent of this beautiful ccJtintry is not yet ascertain-
ed by actual sui'vey : but by hunters and military ran-
gers, who have traversed the region, it is supposed to
spread out northwardly, from the head waters of Kas-
kaskia, frouTi 70 to 120 miles, and eastwardly, from the
hills skirting the Illinois, from 40 to 70 miles. The sur-
face is not an unapt resemblance to the ocean, in broad
prominent swells, after a storm. The soil in some parts,
a deep, black, rich, vegetable mould ; in others, a dark
gray, sandy loam, all bottomed on a fine, marly clay,
mixed with sand. The face of the country is generally
interspersed with prairas, commonly long and narrow,
skirted with wide margins of forest trees, thinly set, but
of an extraordinary size and height. The growth, black
walnut, hickory, sugar tree, mulberry, blue and white ash,
honey and black locust, elm, pecan, poplar, cotton wood
and sycamore : the undergrowth, pawpaw and spice bush,
praira grass, and wild pea vines ; large grape vines are
discoverable in r lany parts, embracing the tops of the
tallest trees. Clear rills and rivulets, and numerous
springs, supply this country with fine water. Iron ore,
salt springs, and coal are abundant. The climate, being
between 40° and 41° north latitude, and the airuueon-
taminated with noxious exhalations from stagnant, pesti-
lential waters, is salubrious, and well adapted to vigorous
northern constitutions.
The Sangamo country occupies a central position, ex-
tending witliin a few miles of Vandalia, the metropolis
of the state of Illinois.
ILLINOIS. 147
Millions of honey-bees, fed by the numberless variety
of flowers, with which the prairas are constantly covered,
throuoh the spring and summer months, have filled the
hollow trees, of the forest with honey.
Wild game of various kinds are found every where
in the forests.
Within the limits of the last described tract, the
charming wild, rural scenery, the healthiness of the cli-
mate, and the other natural privileges connected with
the country, induced more than 200 families to make set-
tlements, before the lands were purchased from the In-
dians.
A strip bordering on the Illinois bottom, above and below
the mouth of the Sangamo, from six to ten miles in width,
as is common near the former river, is uneven second
rate land.
On the 6th of August, 1819, at Edwardsville, (Illinois)
the commissioners of the United States, and the chiefs
of the Kickapoo tribe, negotiated a treaty, by which a
purchase W'as made of those Indians, estimated to con-
tain more than 10,000,000 acres of a tract of country
bounded by a tine commencing at the mouth of the Illi-
nois river, and running eastwardly by the old purchase
lines, to the northwest corner of the second Kaskaskia
purchase ; thence northeastwardly, by the old purchase
line, to the line dividing the Indiana and Illinois states ;
thence north to the Kankankee river ; thence down that
river to the Illinois ; thence down the Illinois, to the
place of beginning : embracing, among other lands, the
whole tract denominated the Sangamo country. It is
yet unknown when the abovementioned lands will be
surveyed and exposed for sale.
Rivers. — There is no state in the Union which is ac-
148 tLLlKOIS.
coramodated with so extensive a space of navigable wa-
ters, aiound its borders as that of Illinois. On the north,
the navigable streams open a communication with Lake
Michigan, which is as a bay to the great fresh water
Mediterranean. On the east, the Wabash — on the
south, the Ohio — and on the west, the Mississippi, com-
municate with tlie ocean. The interior is intersected
by the Illinois, which, by the Plein, one of its brandies,
and the excavation of a canal across a narrow portage,
that may be dug at a moderate expense, will open a pas-
sage for boats to the navigable waters of the Chicago,
that flows into the great lakes. A description of all Uic
livers above named, except the latter, may be found in
our preliminary remarks.
Of many of the rivers, winding their course through
the vast desert and uninhabited regions of this state, be-
ing not yet minutely explored, but an imperfect account
can be given. The following flow into the Great Wabash,
from the west : Little Wahashy which empties into the
Great Wabash, 20 miles above its mouth is 80 yards
in width, affords several good mill seats, of which one
is within two miles of its mouth. The legislature of the
state have incorporated a company with a capital of
50,000 dollars, to remove the obstructions to the passage
of boats in this river. When this purpose is effected,
wliich is said to be practical at a small expense, the river
will be navigable 120 miles. This river drains a large
body of most excellent land. The Fox, which has been
delineated as a river on the maps, is but a bayou of the
Great Wabash. The Embarras puts into the Wabash a
little below Vincennes, is navigable 12 or 15 miles, and
affords excellent mill seats. Macontin, St. Germain,
a rivulet, and jQrtue, a long crooked river, joins the
ILLINOIS.
149
Wabash between Vincennes and Fort Harrison. Brou-
elte, Uuchet, Erablier and Rejoicing, head in the state of
Illinois, and all flow into the Wabash, between Fort Har-
rison and Tippacanoe ; the latter 100 yards wide at its
mouth. Several of these rivers derive tlielr sources
from small lakes, which abound with fowl and fish.
Rivers flowing into the Ohio. — The. Saline river joins
its waters with the Ohio, 30 miles below the raouth of the
W'abash, and is 50 yards wide ; it affords convenient pas-
sage for large boats for more than half the year, as high
as the United States Saline, 20 miles by water and 12
miles on a straight line from its mouth. Grand Pierre,
Lush creek and Big Bay creeks afford good mill seats,
but are not navigable. Cash river is navigable 60 miles,
half the year ; is 50 yards wide at its mouth ; three
miles above which, it approaches within half a mile of
the Mississippi, discharging itself into the Ohio, five
miles above the mouth of that river. Its tributaries have
excellent mill seats.
The following streams flow from this state, below the
raouth of the Illinois river, into the Mississippi :
Muddy river, called by the French the river ^u Vau
discharges its waters into the Mississippi, about 32 miles
on a straight line, below the mouth of the Kaskaskia. —
It is a bold, steady stream, of a gentle current ; though
but 70 yards wide, 25 miles from its mouth, it is naviga-
ble for seven months in the year, 150 miles ; and at all
seasons, a very considerable distance. The loose tex*
ture of the soil has given a good depth to this narrow
stream.
St. Marrfs river, a considerable mill stream, enters
the Mississippi about five miles on a straight line, belovv
the mouth of the Kaskaskia.
n3
150 ILLINOIS.
♦
The Kaskaslcia takes its rise near the centre of the
state, in the vicinity of the southern branches of the
Sangamo ; its course southwest, till within 100 mirles of
the Mississippi, when it takes a south direction to its
mouth ; its eastern branches interlocking with the wes-
tern branches of the St. Mary's, Big Muddy, Little Wa-
bash, and the Grpat Wabash. Its tributaries are Crook- '
ed. Horse, Praira de Long, Silver, Sflgar and Shoal
creeks ; besides divers small streams which are all well
accommodated with mill seats. Above Shoal creek, tlie
main branch takes the name of Okaw. Five miles from
the mouth, this river is 100 yards wide, and for the dis-
tance of 200 miles, is navigable for boats of burden ; and
it is believed, that by a small expense it may be rendered
navigable 300 miles further up.
Cahokia creek rises by two branches, in the unsurvey-
ed lands northeast of Edwardsville, which is situated on
one of them. Forming several ponds in the American
bottom, it approaches within 20 yards of the river, oppo-
site" to St. Louis, and discharges its waters four miles
below. About one mile from its mouth, and five from
St. Louis, is Cahokiaville, which contains about 160
"houses ; the inhabitants mostly French. This stream is
£0 yards wide, rJ^vigable part of the year for 20 miles
up, and drives sever;&l mills.
Wood river enters the Mississippi a short distance
below the mouth of the Missouri ; on it are some good
mill seats.
Streams entering Illinois river on the east. — Maco-
pen, Apple and Otter creeks enter Illinois between 25
and SO miles from its mouth. They drain a large body
of excellent land, of which a description has already been
presented.
ILLINOIS. 151
Chariton creek empties abut 30 miles above Otter
creek, intersecting a good tract of country.
The Sangamo is about 75 miles above, which we have
before described.
Little Michilimdkinac discharges its waters about 200
miles from the Mississippi. The lands through which
this stream meanders, are represented of a good quality.
It is navigable 90 miles and branches out into several
forks which are interwoven with some of the head waters
of the Kaskaskia.
Crow-meadow river heads in the knobs near the head
waters of the Vermillion (of the Wabash) — its course
north west — 20 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable
J 5 miles.
Peoria Lake, 210 miles from the confluence of the Illi-
nois with the Mississippi, is merely an expansion of the
former ; being from one to three miles wide, and 20 miles
long — ^lias no rocky shoals nor perceivable current. Its
waters abound in fish.
About the centre, on the east side, terminates that
range of bluff which borders the eastern margin of the
American bottom, and extends in one c(mtinued ridsre,
to this spot.
Appearances justify a belief, that lake Michigan, at an
early period, found an outlet into the Illinois, through
which the great lake waters made their passage ; tliere
being evident water-worn traces on the banks of the Illi-
nois, which indicate that it formerly was the channel of
far more abundant waters ; and on the borders of the
Jakes, that the surface of their waters were once several
feet higher.
Vermillion is a small stream which joins the Illinois
about 260 miles from its mouth.
153 ILLINOIS.
The KanJcankee forms a junction with the Illinois,
about 270 miles from its confluence with the Mississippi.
It is a stream of considerable extent, and has several
branches. It is believed it might easily be made to com-
muiiicato with the St. Joseph or the Maumee, which emp-
ty into lake Eiie.
The Rock river discharges its waters into the Missis-
sippi 315 miles from the mouth of the Illinois. This is a
beautiful river, and is navigable 300 miles. It rises near
Green Bay — flows through a country of good land,
w'here valuable lead mines are found.
The following streams flow into the Illinois on the
west side, from the Bounty Lands :
JWKee's creek flows through a broken, hilly country,
and enters the Illinois about 70 miles up.
Crooked creek, navigable 30 miles, of a smooth cur-
rent ; in its winding course, more than 100 miles long
—-has some good bottom. The lands bordering on its
bank are generally broken, but well timbered, and the
soil second rate : its tributaries afford good mill-seats.
Coal, iron ore, and fine free-stone, abound in the banks.
It joins the Illinois about 15 miles above M'Kee's creek.
Spoon River empties about 30 miles above the base
line in the Bounty Lands, meanders in a southwardly
course more than 120 miles, and is navigable nearly 50
miles. The bordering lands are of various qualities —
some good bottoms, but the surface geilerally broken.
This river and its tributary streams are well supplied
with mill-seats, iron ore, coal, and salt springs.
Kickapoo, or Redbud, discharges its waters about six
miles below Fort Clark, which stands on the south-west
side of lake Peoria. This stream is crooked, and is ram-
ified into many branches, and intersects a beautiful tract
tif most excellent lands. At Fort Clark, which is a de-
ILLINOIS.
153
Hghtful site for a town, a garrison is established, where a
company of United States soldiers are stationed. No
considerable streams flow into the west side of the lUif
tiois, above this place.
Henderson river, the only considerable stream which
flows from the Bounty Lands into the Mississippi, is
ibout 60 miles long, navigable nearly 20 mileS, and has
numerous tributaries wliich branch out to a great extent,
md drain a spacious tract of good land. This stream
jours its waters into the Mississippi, about 240 miles
ibove St. Louis.
The agricultural productions of this State are nearly the
ame with those of Indiana and Ohi©: Stock of all kinds
ive more easily raised by new settlers, from the greater
Jjundance of Praira grass. Indian corn, wheat, rye, bar-
ey, oats, buckwheat, and various kinds of fruits and
arden vegetables flourish.
Counties, chief towns and ponulation in 1818, the year
which Illinois was erected into a state :
Counties.
Population.
Chief towns.
Bond
1,322
Perrysville
Crawford
2,074
Palestine
Edwards
1,948
Palmyra '
Franklin
700
Gallatin
3,256
Shawneetown
Jackson
1,294
Brownsville
Madison
5,456
Edwardsville
Monroe
1,358
Harrlsonville
Pope
1,975
Golconda
Randolph
2,939
Kaskaskia
St. Clair
4,516
Belleville
Union
2,482
Washington
1,707
White
3,639
Carmi
154 ILLINOIS.
Aiiother enumeration having been taken a few month!
after, the amount of population returned was 40,156
which exceeded the number entitling the territory to be
come a state.
Belleville, the county seat for St. Clair, lies in the cen
tre of the Turkey Hill settlement, 4 miles east of th
bluft' bordering the American Bottom, six miles from Sil
ver creek, and 18 south-east of St. Louis. This is
flourishing new town, surrounded by a body of excelleii
lands. In the same county is Kahokia, containing aboii
500 inhabitants, chiefly French.
KaskasTcia, the county seat for Randolph, at presen
occupied as the metropolis of the state, stands on th
west bank of the river Kaskaskia, 11 miles from i<
mouth, and six miles from the Mississippi. This tow
wa» settled by the French, before the founding of th
city of Philadelphia, and once contained more than 700
inhabitants: at present there are not more than 16
houses. After it fell into the jurisdiction of thg BritisI
many of the inhabitants removed to Genevieve. Place
near the mouth of a river extensively navigable, and i
the vicinity of some of the richest lands of the wester
country, connected with a convenient position for con
merce, this place assumes that degree of importanc
which must eventually attract wealth and numbers. ]
has a good harbor for boats, contains a land office,
printing-ofiice, and a bank, and is now in a flourishin
condition.
Fraira du Rocher, 12 miles from Kaskaskia, is
French village in the American Bottom ; the inhabitan'
subsisting by agriculture.
America, 8 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, has s
elevation of a few feet above the highest waters. Tl
LLLIXOIS. 155
situation is pleasant, and the town laid out on a liberal
plan : the streets being at right angles, the one fronting
the rfver is 100 feet wide, and the two which cross each
other at the centre, of the same width ; and the other
streets 66 feet. The proprietors have reserved 40 do-
nation lots for mechanics, who may settle and improve
them. It is projected to unite the Ohio witn the Missis-
sippi, at this place, by a canal ; and the proprietors are
incorporated for that purpose with a capital of §1,000,000
accompanied with the privilege of a banlving establish-
ment.
Wilkinsonville, in a beautiful bend of the Ohio, was
formerly a military post, under the command of general
Wilkinson. No vestiges now remain of a town at this
place ; and it has lately been entered as vacant land, by
an individual.
Golconda, the seat of justice for Pope county, is plea-
santly situated on the bank of the Ohio, below the mouth
of Lush creek. The town is in a flourishing condition
and bids fair to become a place of considerable import-
ance.
Shawneetown, 8 miles below the Wabash on the Ohio,
is subject to inundation hj high waters. It is the place
where courts of justice are held for Gallatin county. It
contains a bank, called the Great Bank of Illinois, with
a capital of g2,000,000, and a land-ofl&ce for the district.
Carmi, the seat of justice for White county, stands,
surrounded by lands of the first quality, on the west
bank of the Little Wabash, 50 miles from its mouth, and
35 from Shawneetown.
Palmyra, the county seat of Edwards, is three miles
above the mouth of White river.
Palestine is tlie capital town of Crawford county,
156 ILLINOIS.
Avhich is situated on the Wabash, above the river Em-
barras. Many other towns have been recently com-
menced, under I'easonable prospects of becoming flour-
ishing phaces for business. Several other towns have
been described with the lands that surround them.
The state of Illinois is supposed to be covered by a
larger proportion of rich soil than any state in the Union.
But it is not to be disguised, that much of the best of it
is inundated by high waters, and that large tracts are
rendered very insalubrious from the pestilential exhala-
tions proceeding from stagnant waters. Other portions
are rendered not eligible for settlements, on account of
bad water, or the great scarcity of that useful element*
The facilities of transporting the natural produce of this
state, and of obtaining foreign articles of necessity, are
wonderful, there being not less than 3,100 miles of navi-v
gable water surrounding and intersecting the large ex-
tent of territory which constitutes the state.
TENNESSEE.
Tennessee is bounded north by Kentucky andpart of
Virginia; east by North Carolina; south by Georgia,
Alabama and the state of Mississippi ; and west by the
river Mississippi; between 4° 4' and 14° 15' west lon-
gitude, and 35° and 36° north latitude : 420 miles long
and 102 broad, containing 40,000 square miles.
This state was separated from North Carolina and
erected into a territorial government in 1790. In 1796
it was admitted into the political Union, and organized
as one of the United States.
In 1791, the population was 35,695 : in 1800, 105,602 ;
in 1810, 261,727, of whom 45,535 were slaves, and 1,317
free blacks. The militia, in 1812, numbered 29,193.
Face of the country, soil, Sfc. — The surface of Ten-
nessee presents bold features. The Mississippi laves
the western boundary, and the Tennessee and Cumber-
land, after winding their serpentine courses over a great
extent of surface, pour their waters within 11 miles dis-
O
158 TENNESSEE.
tance from each other, into the Ohio, not far from its
confluence with the Mississippi. The Cumberland
mountains intersect the state obliquely, and divide it
into unequal parts, called East and West Tennessee. —
The eastern section of the state contains what may be
considered the nucleus of the Alleganies. The moun-
tains here, though less elevated, are broader and more
gently inclined to the west, than in tlie other parts of
the state. The western section exhibits a surface partly
waving and partly level ; the middle is broken into hills,
and much of the eastern is occupied by mountains ; of
which, many are elevated to a great height, affording
prospects romantic, picturesque and grand. The great
Laurel Ridge and Cumberland, arp among the most re-
markable. Stone, Yellow, Iron, Bald and Unaka, are
connected in one continuous chain — ^bearing a direction
northeast and southwest, and forming the eastern boun-
dary of the state. To the northeast are Bayes, Copper
Ridge, and Clinch mountains, Powell's and Welling's
Ridge, all separated each from the other, by vallies from
four to sixteen miles wide. The last four terminating
north of Tennessee river. All these mountains are sur-
rounded by vallies, which aiFord good passages for run-
ning waters and roads. This variegated scenery of hill
and dale, dry, barren heights, rugged, lofty cliffs, and
smooth, fruitful valleys, finely irrigated by the serpentine
rivulets, formed from the cold mountain springs, descend-
ing, as they imite in cascades, over the rocks, present
views, at once beautiful, romantic and sublime. Three-
fourths of the entire surface of this state is supposed to
consist of mountains and hills. The vallies and river
bottoms are exceedingly fertile ; but the summits of the
mountains, though sometimes extensively level, as is the
TENNESSEE. t59
Cumberland, over which public roads cross, where are
considerable settlements, are covered with an indiffer-
ent soil; which, however, is productive of clover, the small
grains, and of fruits. The mountains generally incline to
the west, and disappear some distance east of the Missis-
sippi ; and the hills are generally depressed as tliey ap-
proach the Ohio. The great variety of surface produces
a variety of soil. In the western parts, the soil is black
and rich. In the middle are extensive tracts of good
lands. The eastern is variegated with mountains,
covered with rocks, or a thin soil ; and beautiful vallies,
consisting of most excellent lands.*
From so many concurrent causes varying the temper-
ature of climate, the same latitude from east to west ap-
pears as much varied in the temperature of heat, as an
equal distance from north to south on the same meridian.
The state of Tennessee may be considered as presenting a
medium, between the extremes of heat and cold in the
northern and southern regions of the United States.—
The climate is generally healthy, particularly in East
Tennessee, where the summer heat is so moderated by
the current of mountain air, continually moving from
the west, and the refreshing breezes from the Mexican
Gulf, on the south, that this part of the state possesses
one of the most salubrious and desirable climates on the
continent. A Tennessee winter is not an unapt resem-
blance to a New-England spring. It is very seldom, ex-
cept on the high mountains, that snow falls to the tlcpth
of six inches, nor does it continue longer than six or eight
days. From the first settlement of the country, Cum-
berland has not been frozen over more than two or three
times. The winters are generally so mild that cattle
require no shelter.
160 '' TENNESSEE.
As our object is not to describe Elysian fields, nor
Utopian regions, but to instruct our readers in simple
geographical facts, so far as we can distinctly ascertain
them, we feel it our duty to charge emigrants from the
north to beware how they seat themselves down |>er-
manently on low lands, however rich, that are shaded by
thick forest trees, especially near stagnant waters. Of
this description are considerable tracts of fertile land
in the state of Tennessee, where new settlers have se-
verely suffered from agues and billious fevers. After
such lands are disburthened of the forest trees and suffi-
ciently exposed to the sun, the causes, proceeding from
decayed vegetables, neither dry nor decomposed, which
engender mortal disease, are removed ; then the vigor-
ous, hardy cultivator from the north, may safely erect
his cabbin and pursue his rural labors.
The largiest portion of the state is bedded on lime-
stone. Caves of great extent and depth, may be found
within this calcareous region : from vviience large quan-
tities of salt petre are taken ; which forms one of the
staples of commerce.
For the gratification of the curious, we will state some
remarkable traces of animals, such as the -distinct im-
pression of the feet of men, horses, biars, and turkeys,
on solid reck ; which, from the earliest knowledge of
the country, have been as clearly distinguishable as
though made in snow or sand, on the summits off what
are called the Enchanted Cumberland Mountains. To
the philosophical naturalist, we leave the investigation
of these wonderful phenomena.
Spacious strata of Gypsum have lately been discover-
ed; copperas, alluni, lead, some silver, coal, and several
T^XNESSEE. iGl
mineral springs, are found in divers places within the
state. Salt and iron are also produced in East and
West Tennessee ; in both of winch, iron works have
been put in operation.
Forest trees of an extraordinary size, and of almost
every species that grow in the west, are abundant : as
also great quantities of large cane. There are many
herbaceous plants possessing medical virtues ; such as
snake root, ginseng, anise, spikeiiard.
Fish and wild game abound in the waters and woods
of Tennessee.
To speak in the language of geologists, excepting the
alluvial margins of rivers and a small portion of East
Tennessee, which is transition, the whole geological for-
mation of the state is secondary.
Of the agricultural productions of Tennessee, the vari-
ety is as great, perhaps, as any one of the United States.
Maize, wheat, rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, hemp, fiax,
cotton, tobacco, and almost every species of fruit trees
within the United States, flourish here. Cotton and to-
bacco are the principal staples for exportation ; of which
great quantities are sent to Orleans market, yearly.—
Agriculture is the chief employment for most of the in-
habitants of this state ; and the rivers Tennessee and
Cumberland are the principal medium for transpoi-ting
the country produce to the Ohio. The navigable waters
of the Tomigbee, have been supposed capable of furnish-
ing a more convenient outlet to the ocean, for several
parts of the state.
The western part, between Tennessee and the Missis-
sippi, lately belonged to the Chickasaw Indians ; and
alarge districttothe southeast, to the Cherokee tribe.
162 TENNESSEE.
First settlements. — Tennessee was originally a part
of North Carolina. About the commencement of the
revolutionary war, several families without authority
from any government, commenced an establishment in
East Tennessee, and remained unnoticed, until they dis-
tinguished themselves in bravely repelling the hostile
incursions of the savages, on the frontiers. Thus, acci-
dentally, were congregated, a body of hardy backwoods-
men, armed in self-defence ; and by protecting their own
possessions from the dreadful fury of savage warfare,
opposed a barrier to the inroads. of the barbarous enemy,
on the frontiers of South Carolina, North Carolina and
Virginia.
Before we treat of the rivers, we will add a few words
respecting the Muscle-shoals. They are an expansion
of the river Tennessee, about 250 miles from its mouth,
and nearly the same distance from the Whirl or Suck,
where the river branches through the Great Ridge, or
Cumberland Mountains. The expansion extends about
25 miles ; is from two to three miles wide, and receives
its name fiom the number of soft shell turtles and fresh
water clams found here.
Rivers within the state. — Tennessee and Cumberland
are the principal ; a description of which may be found
in our preliminary remarks.
The Ilolston rises in Virginia, and running southwest,
joins the Tennessee 22 miles below Knoxville ; is about
200 miles long, and navigable for boats of 25 tons burden,
100 miles.
Tlie Clinch rises in Virginia, and flowing southwest,
joins the Tennessee, 30 miles west of the Holston ; be-
ing about 200 miles in length.
TENNESSEE.
163
Duck river has its head waters in the southeast part
of the state, and flows into the Tennessee about 80 miles
west of Nashville. It is navigable for about 90 miles.
Elk River derives its source from Cumberland moun-
tains ; is 155 miles long, and empties itself into the
Tennessee, near Muscle-shoals. There are many other
streams of less note, which flow either into the Cum-
berland, Tennessee, or the Mississippi. The two for-
mer streams traverse the state in so wide a range, put-
ting out into so many branches, that it is said, there is
rarely a spot 20 miles distant from navigable waters
within the state.
The counties, population (as by the census of 1810)
and chief towns, appear in the following columns.
EAST TENNESSEE.
Counties.
Population.
Chief Towns.
Anderson
3,959
Clinton
Bledsoe
8,839
Pikeville
Blount
3,259
Maryville
Campbell
2,668
Jacksonburg
Carter
4,190
Elizabethtown
Claiborne
4,798
Tazewell
Coke
5,154
Newport
Granger
6,397
Rutledge
Hawkins
7,643
Rogersville
Green
9,713
Greenville
Jefferson
7,309
Dandridge
Knox
10,171
Knoxville
Rhea
2,504
Washington
Roane
5,581
Kingston
Sevier
4,595
Sevierville
Sullivan
6,847
Blountsville
Washington
7,740
Jonesborough
164
TENNESSEE.
WEST TENNESSEE.
Bedford 8,242 Shelbjville
Davidson 15,608 Nashville
Dickson 4,516 Charlotte
Franklin 5,730 "Winchester
Giles 4,536 Pulaski
Hickman 2,583 Vernon
Humphries 1,511 Reynoldsburg
Jackson 5,401 Williamsburg
Lincoln 6,104 Fayetteville
Montgomery 8,021 Clarkesville
Maury 10,359 Columbia
Overton 5,643 Monroe
Robertson 7,270 Springfield
Rutherford 10,265 Murfreesborough
Sumner 13,792 Gallatin
Smith 11,649 Carthage
Stuart 4,262 Dover
Wilson 11,952 Lebanon
Williamson 13,153 Franklin
White 4,028 Sparta"
Warren 5,725 M'Minville
Murfreesborough, in West Tennessee, is the metropo-
lis, where the Legislature meet. It is 32 miles south east
from Nashville, 160 west of Knoxville, 708 from the city
of Washington, in longitude 9° 35' west, latitude 35° 53'
north. In 1818, there were 1100 inhabitants. The town
contains a court house, jail, a market house, a branch of
the Nashville bank, an academy, a printing office, from
which a weekly newspaper issues, and about 200 houses,
built mostly of brick. The public edifi.ces are also brick,
and exhibit a neat style. The town was commenced about
the year 1812, but was not established as the seat of gov-
TENNESSEE. . l6i5
crnment till 1817. It is now one of the most flourishing
towns in the state. The situation is healthy, being a plea-
sant eminence, descending in every direction, and accom-
modated with springs of pure water; and within the dis-
tance of 2§ miles are two mineral springs, the waters of
which have proved salutary in several complaints. In the
vicinity are valuable mills. The country surrounding the
metropolis of the state, consists of an extensive tract of
most excellent land, abundantly productive of corn,
wheat, cotton, tobacco, various kinds of fruits, and En-
glish grasses. The surface is nearly level, for an extent
of more than twenty miles square. New-Orleans fur-
nishes the market for the produce of this section of the
country. From Murfreesborough to Nashville, is an
excellent road ; and steam boats ply from that place to
the Mexican Gulf.
JYashville, in AVest Tennessee, 110 miles north of
Huntsville, 190 west of Knoxville, 250 southwest of
Lexington, 430 northeast by north of Natchez, is plea-
santly situated on the south bank of the Cumberland. —
The population in 1818 was between 3000 and 4000. This
town lies in 10° 6' west long, and 35° 45' north lat. It
is regularly laid' out, and contains a court house, jail,
market house, two banks, a young ladies' academy, a
public library of 1200 volumes, a cotton and woolen fac-
tory, a ropewalk, two distilleries, and three places for
public worship — one Presbyterian, one Methodist, and
one Baptist. This is a thriving, wealthy town, the lar-
gest in the state ; stands in a fertile populous part of the
country, and carries on a flourishing trade. The Cum-
berland is navigable from the Ohio to this place, for ves-
sels of 40 tons burden, nine months in the year, and du-
ririg the seasons of high water, for ships of 4 or 500 tons.
166 TENNESSEE.
Nashville Is distant from New-Orleans in the present
route by Natchez, 586 miles — but a new road is opening
by Madisonville, shortening the distance to 480. Cum-
berland College, in Nashville, although incorporated in
1806, and accommodated with an edifice 90 feet long
and three stories high, has not yet gone into operation : a
grammar school is kept in the building.
Knoxville, in East Tennessee, in the county of Knox,
lies on the Holston, 22 miles above its junction with the
Tennessee, 190 miles east of Nashville, and the same dis-
tance south of Lexington. The town occupies a pleasant
situation. It contains a court house, jail, a state bank,
an academy, barracks sufficient to accommodate 700
men, two printing offices, each of which issue a weekly
newspaper, and three places for public worship — one for
Presbyterians, one for Baptists, and one for Methodists.
It is the most considerable town in East Tennessee, and
formerly was the seat of the state government. Hamp-
den Sydney Academy, is a respectable seminary. A
College has been established, but has not yet been put
into operation.
The other towns of most note, which are Frankliv,
Fayetteville, Shelbyville, Columbia, Clarkesville, Car-
tilage and Gallatin in West Tennessee, and Jonesbo'
rough, Greenville and Rogersville in East Tennessee,
we shall not attempt to describe, for want of sufficient
information.
MISSISSIPPI
Was erected into a state in the year 1817". Accord-
ing to the act of Congress, it is bounded as follows : be-
ginning on the Mississippi river, where the southern
boundary line of the state of Tennessee strikes the same;
thence east along the said boundary line to the Tennes-
see river ; thence up the same to the mouth of Bear
creek ; tlience by a direct- line to the northwest corner
of the county of Washington ; thence due south to the
Gulf of Mexico; thence westwardly, including all the
islands within six leagues of the shore, to the most eastern
junction of Pearl river, with lake Borgne ; thence up
said river to north latitude 31" ; thence west, along said
degree of latitude to the Mississippi ; thence up the same
to the beginning.
It is situated between SO*" and 35° north lat. and S**
and 14° west long. Length nearly 340 miles, breadth
about 150 ; containing 38,000,000 acres.
Rivers. — The Mississippi forms a western boundary
to the state, to an extent of nearly 700 miles by the me-
anderings of the river ; in a direct line only about 280.
The east bank of the Mississippi is rendered less con-
venient for settlements, than the west, by the great
extent of inundated lands on its margin, which are spa-
cious. A number of hills approach near to the river, and
form bluffs ; as at the Walnut Hills, Grand and Petite
Gulfs, Natchez, White Cliffs, and Loftus' Heights.—
168 MISSISSIPPI.
These heights are extended in nearly a direct line, while
the river is extremely serpentine.
Most of the recent alluvions in the state, consist of
lands included between the hills and the curves in
this river.
Cypress swamps occupy the low lands between the
base of the hills and high banks of the river. The isl-
ands in tlie Mississippi are generally too low for culti-
vation, and useful only for timber.
The Yazoo rises in the Chickasaw country, near the
south boundary of Tennessee, interlocks with the head
-streams of the Toinigbee, and pursuing a course west
by north, flows into the Mississippi, 12 miles above the
Walnut Hills ; being there the boundary to the lands
now claimed by the Indians. The banks are subject to
be overflown widely. The river is navigable for a con-
siderable distance ; much of the course of which being
within the unexplored lands of the Indians, is but imper-
fectly known.
The Big Black river derives its source between the
Yazoo and Pearl rivers, and flowing nearly southwest,
joins the Mississippi above the Grand Gulf. Like
other streams between the Mississippi and the Tombig-
bee, the table lands drained by the head waters of the
Big Black, are steril pine.
Between Big Black and Homochitta rivers. Bayou
Pierre, Cole's creek, Fairchild's creek and vSt. Catha-
rine's ci'eek enter the Mississippi. The general course
of the Homochitta, for about 70 miles, is southwest ; it
passes through a lake in its way to the Mississippi.—^
Some of the most valuable plantations in the state are on
this stream. Fifteen miles up from its mouth, the banks
are unsettled, being anually overflown.
MISSISSIPPI. 169
Buffalo creek falls in two miles above Fort Adams.
Below this creek the streams flow southwardly. A di-
viding ridge, commencing in the high lands, which gives
rise to Yazoo and Pearl rivers, and continuing in a soutli-
westwardly direction, separates the waters of the Bonge,
Chitto and Amite, from those of the Homichitta and
Buffalo rivers, and terminates abruptly at Loftus'
Heights.
Leaving the Mississippi, and proceeding eastwardly,
in latitude 31°, we reach Amite, which rises in the north-
eastern extremity of the county of that name, is the next
considerable stream in that direction. It traverses the
county southwardly, enters Louisiana, and unites with
the Iberville, 40 miles above the entrance into Lake
Maurepas. \ The country, drained by the head Vv'aters of
the Amite, is hilly and salubrious, has a good supply of
pure water, ja, productive soil, a pleasant scenery, and
convenient and 'desirable sites for plantations. The
region forming the sources of the head waters of the
Bogne^ Chitto and Pearl, possesses features similar in
soil and surface to the tract last described.
The Pascagoula, to which Chickasaw, Leaf and Dog
rivers are tributaries, is a beautiful stream. It rises in
latitude about 33° and running parallel to the Tombigbee
nd Mobile 250 miles, expands near the Gulf, into a
)road bay. Vessels drawing five feet of water, pass to
;he junction of Leaf and Chickasaw rivers. Although
he lands, intersected by this river, are generally sterile,
large portion of its margins is of a good soil, and con-
venient for cultivation. The region bordering on the
ulf, near the mouth of the Pascagoula, is exempt from
tagnant waters, is high, dry and salubrious, and is com-
P
■ ■ ",i
1/0 Mississippi. 'i
monly resorted to as a retreat, by the Inhabitants of Or- {
leans, during the sickly months. ;
Face, of the country, soil, ^'c. — The rido;e of hills, ^
which divide the state of Mississippi into two unequal.^
sectidns, has before been described. The northwest sec- J
tion comprises all the counties of Warren, Claiborne, I
Jefferson, Adams, Franklin, and the greatest part of^
Wilk'nson, and one half of Amite. The southeast sec-i
tion comprehends one half of Amite, all Pike, Marion.^
Hancock, and Jackson counties. The two divisions are^
distinctly marked by different climates, soils and pro- ;;
ductions. The banks of the Mississippi constitute the!;
western borders of the northwestern section. This bor-jj
der in divers places near the river, is surrounded by hills,-;
such as the Walnut Hills, Grand Gulf, Natchez, White^
Cliffs and Loftus' Heights. In other places, the Bluffsl]
approach near the Mississippi, as at Petite Gulf, Villa.
Gaynusa and Pine Ridge. \
The most extensive Mississippi bottom in this^ region,-
spreads below the mouth of the Yazoo, at Palmyra ; be-.;
tween Bayou Piei're and Cole's creek ; between Villaj
Gayousa and Natchez; and between the White Cliffs,;
and Loftus' Heights. These bottoms, though occasion^^
ally, are but rarely five miles wide ; they would not^
average more than two and a half. Their length beingjl
supposed about 200 miles on the east bank. The entirfii
superficies of inundated lands on the river, within thej
state, would consist of an area of 500 square miles : to,
which add, for the river and creek bottoms projecting'
into the interior, on streams which enter the Mississippi
100 square miles, and the amount will be 600 square
miles : an estimate, according to the opinion of Mr.^
Darby (whose attention to this subject entitles his cal*
MISSISSIPPI. 171
calation to great credit) sufficiently ample to embrace
all the inundated bottom between the Yazoo and the
southern boundary of the state of Mississippi.
From these bottoms, the hills rise abruptly, though
not to a great height, and spread oui into a waving sur-
face. Rarely does any part of ^the United States pre-
sent a soil, affording a greater diversity, than that of the
country watered by the Yazoo, Big Black, Homochitta,
Buffalo, and their numerous tributary streams. The
whole of ttis extensive tract is wonderfully productive
of that most valuable vegetable, the cotton plant.
The timber growth on the bottoms consists principally
of cotton wood, black willow, boxelder, hackberry, bitter
nut, hickory,- sweet gum, sycamore, ash, elm. From the
Mississippi Bluffs, from 10 to 15 miles in extent back,
the soil is composed of rich loam, and thickly covered
with timber ; such as various species of oak and hickory,
willow, poplar, walnut, sassafras, sweet gum, water ash,
persimmon, beech, honey locust, red flowering maple,
hackberry, sycamore, iron wood, hornbeam, chincapin,
wildberry, lime tree and various kinds ofehn.
The Pine Ridge, eight miles to the north of Natchez,
approaches the Mississippi, within one mile.
This growth of pine, occupying a space not exceed-
ing the extent of 20 square miles, is in this place a re-
markable phenomenon — there being no other place with-
in our knowledge, where a pine growth approaches so
near the Mississippi. The land, which is excellent, bears
a mixture of other species of trees,'indicative of a good
soil. A distance of 15 or 20 miles intervenes between
this tract and that on which the pine growth is abundant.
To the northeast and south, the pine ridge is bounded
hj the banks of Fairchild's and St. Catherine's creeks,
and to the west is the Mississippi bottom.
^^^^^U^tt^Mmmk _
17^ MISSISSIPPI.
The under growth consists of various kinds of vines
and shrubs, common wild grape, muscadine, dogwood,
spicewood, pawpaw, Spanish mulberry, great cane.
In proceeding from the mouths of Pearl and Pasca-
cagoula rivers, on the Gulf coast, northwardly, towards
the state of Tennessee, the first hundred miles is throngli
forests of long leafed pine, interspersed with cypress
swamps and open prairas ; the surface is generally level ;
but occasionally variegated by broad prominencies and
inundated marshes. The soil, though generally sandy,
but sometimes gravelly, is bedded on a marly clay,
which is supposed to contribute much to its fertility. It
produces a variety of fruits, such as plumbs, cherries,
peaches, figs, sour oranges and grapes j also cotton, corn)
indigo, sugar and garden vegetables.
Further to the north, within the territory of the Choc-
taws, Chickasaws and Cherokees, the surface is elevated
and undulating ; the soil a deep vegetable mould of ex-
ceeding fertility, resembling the best parts of Kent^jicky,
but more rolling and broken in surface, and more various
in production. The timber growth is poplar, hickory,
black walnut, oak, sugar maple, buckeye, elm, hackberry.
Part of this tract, bordering on the Tennessee rivei-,
extending in length 100 miles, partly in Alabama, by the
Muscle-Shoals, and about 40 miles in width, north and
south, is considered one of the most fertile regions in
North America. It reaches the navigable waters both of
the Tennessee and Tombigbee, is plentifully supplied
with pure water. The climate is mild and salubrious.
The situation, perhaps, combines more natural conve-
niences and facilities for good living, to render it desir-
able to new settlers, than any spot in. the western country.
MISSISSIPPI. 173
The long leafed pine is a tall, stately tree, from 60 to
80 feet, clear of limbs. This growth prevails from the
Gulf coast to the northern Choctaw boundary.
The country in the possession of the Choctaws and
Chickasaws, abounds in rich prairas ; of which the lar-
gest (on the route from the former to the latter tribe) is
spread out to the width of nearly forty miles.
Almost the whole region, northwest of the Yazoo, be-
tween the Mississippi and the Tennessee, of which a
great part belongs to the Chickasaw nation, is formed
into a beautiful surface, well supplied with fine water,
and covered with a deep, rich soil. On the richest up-
lands, the soil is deep and durable ; it is either of a dark
or an ash color. The rocks and stones are calcareous,
intermixed with flint, sandstone and slate. Swamps are
rare, within 100 miles south of Tennessee river. The
cypress galls, (so called,) the poorest species of land,
have, below their sui-face, veins of a remarkably fine
clay : it is delicate, white, soft and tenacious, free frona
gritty particles, and fit for manufacturing into ware.
Topographical. — One mile below the northeast corner
of the state, where fort Pickering formerly stood, is the
bank, which is called the fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, from
60 to 100 feet high, of an irregular form, sloping in some
parts, in others perpendicular. Here are about a dozen
dwelling houses, on an elevated airy situation, which
would afford a pleasant site for a town. The adjacent
country is covered by a ridi soil, suitable for the cultiva-^
tion of cotton. The Chickasaws own the land, excepting
•a small tract near where the garrison was ; a few miles
eastward from which, they now occupy a considerable
town, and are not disposed to relinquish their title. This
bluff presents a front of 10 miles along the river, partly
pS
174 MISSISSIPPI.
in the state of Tennessee. From this place to the mouth
of the Yazoo, there afe but a few scattering settlements.
About latitude 34° north is the limit, northwardly, to
the range traversed by alligators. Here the vegetable
kingdom assumes a more stately, diversified and brilliant
appearance. The spleiifdid magnolia and the lofty cy-
press, unknown to the middle states, stand preeminent
above the other trees of the forest, and the cane and cot-
ton plants exhibit a more vigorous growth and vivid co-
lor — the impervious cane brakes overspread the ground,
and the Spanish beard is suspended in festoons from the
brandies of trees.
Ten miles below the Yazoo river, commence the Wal-
nut hills ; the surface presenting a pleasant undulating
scenery and a rich soil. Here the ruins of fort M'Hen-
ry appear ; near which are several fine, spacious cotton
plantations.
The settlement of Palmyra is occupied by New-Eng-
land emigrants, 25 miles below the Walnut hills.
Twenty-seven miles below this place, the Big Black
river joins the Mississippi, From the mouth of the for-,
mer river, the settlements are extended 40 miles upj-
where bilious complaints, proceeding from the stagnation '
of the waters, caused by the back current of the Missis-
sippi, prevail. Two miles below is the Grand Gulf,
which though it inspires inexperienced boatmen with ter-
ror, is slightly regarded by old coasters. Tiie mouth of
bayou .Pierre appears ten mijes below. The health of
the bordering settlements, is much exposed, by the con-
finement of the waters in this stream, from the pressure
of the Mississippi floods.
In this region the woods are enlivened by various spe-
cies of birds. The pigeons, in certain seasons, are so
MISSISSIPPI. 475
plentiful as to darken the air, in a manner, by their ex-
tensive flocks. Paroquets and wild turkeys are abun-
dant; and in winter the water fowls are numerous.
Port Gibson lies about SO miles up the Pierre. It is
the principal town of Claiborne county, and contains
about 60 houses and a flourishing academy.
Bruinshurg, containing four or five houses, is two
miles from Bayou Pierre.
Greenville, the capital of Jefferson county, is 15 miles
from the Mississippi, pleasantly situated on a dry, sandy
plain, by the middle branch of Coles' creek. It contains
about 70 houses, a court house, post office and several
stores, and is surrounded by a fertile, well cultivated
country.
J^atchez, in tife county of Adams, is situated on the
Mississippi, 321 miles from New-Orleans. It is the most
populous and commercial town in the state. In 1810,
it contained 1511 inhabitants; at present, 1819, about
3000. The town stands upon a bluff*, elevated 150 feet
about the surface of the river. An intervening hill pre-
vents the river from being seen at the town, the site of
which is very uneven. It contains a court house, jail, a
market house,bank, an academy ,two printing offices, from
each of wliich is issued a weekly newspaper, and two
houses of public worship, one Roman Catholic and one
Presbyterian. There are some elegant houses, but they
are mostly of wood, and only one story. The gardens
are ornamented with orange trees, figs, plumbs, peaches
and grapes. Sea vessels have often traversed the Mis-
sissippi as far as Natchez, before steam boats were in-
troduced. This town was settled by the French in 1729,
but the first inhabitants were all massacred by the Nat-
chez tribe of Indians ; most of whom, in their turn, were
d^iMiJU
176 MISSISSIPPI. •
soon after attacked and destroyed in tlieir secluded re- ^j
treat on the banks of the Tensaw, by the French. -j
Washington is situated on St. Catharine's creek, eight ^
miles east from Natchez, in Adams county. It has been >
the seat of government for Mississippi territory fifteen 'j^
years. It contains a population of about ICOO, and is ]
surrounded by some of the most wealthy and populous *'
settlements in the state. Washington affords a delight- J
ful and salubrious summer residence. The water is i
excellent, and the adjacent country Is agreeably diver- *
sified by a gently undulating surface, where are no stag-^
nant waters. J
T/ie White 67/^^, composed of white clay,and strongly ,
resembling chalk, are one mile below Catharine's creek. \
The Homochitta, a small beautifuf river, joins the j
Mississippi 27 miles below. It is 60 yards wide, and 5
its branches interweave with those of the Amite. This >
river is at pi-esent considered as the northern boundary '
of the sugar region. Most kincls of tropical fruits flourislL|,|
here, such as the sweet orange, guinea corn, pomegranate, \
ginger and figs. \
Loftus' Heights present themselves eight miles below, J;
and are elevated 150 feet above the level of the Missis-*^
sippi. The line of demarcation, run by Andrew Ellicot, i
in 1796, as a boundary between tlie United States and ;■
West Florida, is at present the dividing line between the ''<
state of Mississippi and Louisiana, to Pearl river. •. 1
Monticello, on Pearl river, in Lawrence county, is th^*
present seat of government for the state of Mississippi. 1
It has recently been settled, and is situated in 31° S3' N. .
lat. and 13° W. long, on dry, elevated ground, where the
site is pleasant and the air salubrious.
MISSlfeSIPPI.
177
The Mississippi territory, of which the state of Mis-
sissippi is the western half, contained in 1810, 40,352
inhabitants ; and in 18|6, 75,610, of whom 30,540 were
slaves.
The following table presents the counties, population
and chief towns in the state, as they stood in 1816.
Counties.
Population.
Chief Towns.
Adams
3,998
Natchez
Amite
5,059
Liberty
Claiborne
3,506
Port Gibson
Franklin
2,708
Greene
1,721
Hancock
1,000
Jefferson
4,906
Greenville
Lawrence
1,784
^ Monticello
Marion
1,701
Pike
2,618
Jacksonville
Warren
1,569
Warren
Wayne
2,084
Winchester
Wilkinson
7,275
Woodville
Of this population 21,275 were slaves.
Vegetable productions.— ^Few regions on the globe, it
is conceived, exhibit a greater variety of timber growth,
or of vegetable productions, than the state of Mississippi.
The country adjacent to Natchez abounds in numberless
species of herbaceous plants, of which many contain
medicinal virtues. Cotton, tobacco, indigo, Indian cprn,
the various kinds of small grain, sweet and Irish potatoes,
and a great variety of other vegetables, are cultivated
with success. Apples, peaches, pears, figs, pomegranates,
plumbs, grapes and oranges are also found to flourish. —
On the entire surface of the state, cotton can be produ-
eed as a staple ; while almost every other plant, which
178 MISSISSIPPI.
affords a convenient and desirs^ble subsistence for man,
grows plentifully.
We deem it not irrelevant to;add a few remarks on
the subterranean basis of the country. At Loftus' heights
appear, in descending the river, the last strata of stone,
consisting of breccia, or pudding stone, visible only when
the liver is very low ; and is of the same species which
forms the base of the bluffs fi'om the mouth of the Ohio
downwards. It consists principally of silicious pebbles;
mixed with various petrifactions, and is cemented by ar-
gillaceous matter, strongly impregnated with iron ore :
waters passing over or through it, though apparently lim-o
pid, are not reckoned salutary. It is believed that this
species of rock forms the basis of the largest portion of
the lands on the Mississippi, below the Ohio.
77ie Climate of the state of Mississippi, with the ex-
ception of places on and contiguous to overflowing
streams, where the waters become stagnant, may be con-
sidered salubrious. The country, from the mouth of the
Yazoo to the 31st degree of north latitude, is most ad-
vantageously situated : there are no stagnant pools nor
marshy lands ; and the water is excellent. Health is as
prevalent here as in any region of the same parallel of
latitude. The seasons are agreeable, particularly au-
tumn and winter. We know of no place where the wea-
ther is more pleasant, from September to April. The
undulating surface of the ground prevents the bad effects
of drenching rains on the roads ; which, in this part of
the state, are in a condition which renders the travelling
not inconvenient. It is rare here, that the traveller is
long interrupted by the flooding of the streams. In the
northern and eastern states, there are no seasons which
correspond with the winters of Georgia, Louisiana, Ala-
MISSISSIPPI. 179
bama and Mississippi ; where they are generally very
mild. The seasons here, when health is most precarious,
are the summer and the early part of autumn. Every
climate has diseases peculiar to itself. The heat of sum-
mer, particulaly in warm climates, accompanied with nox-
ious exhalations, produce bilious complaints, in various
forms ; and cold, moist climates bring on catarrh, asthma,
rheumatism and consumption. But it is remarkable, that
the latter complaints are rarely known south of 35° north
latitude. Indeed there are few states in the union, so
highly favored as that of Mississippi, in point of soil and
climate : the variety being greater in each of these, than
in any other state, except Georgia. Fronting exten-
sively on tlie Mississippi, the great highway and outlet
for the productions from a thousand tributary streams,
that intersect the country for more than twenty degrees
to the north, and nearly thirty from east to west, the state
of Mississippi occupies a most important position. The
climate being temperate, and ftiost of the surface elevated
and salubrious, few regions, so extensive, afford greater
natural means for the permanent prosperity of human so-
ciety.
Indians. — Three tribes of Indians, the Chickasavfe,'
Chei'okees, and Choctaws, reside within the state of
Mississippi. The nation of Chickasaws consists of about
5,800 ; of which, 1800 are warriors. They are the pro-
prietors of several millions of acres of excellent land,
lying between Tennessee and Mississippi rivers ; besides
4 reserved tracts, from one to four miles square. They
have always professed the strongest friendsliip for the
United States ; and their fidelity has, on trying occa-
sions, proved unquestionable. Some of the Chickasaw
chiefs own many negro slaves, and annually make sale of
.^..^^::^,.-^ ■^u;^A^..-.o,a^iiitoi>ttiiaa
180 MISSISSIPPI.
hundreds of horned cattle and hogs. This nation occu-
pies eight towns, and have attained to a considerable de-
gree of civilization.
The Cherokees are still more numerous ; their popu-
lation being estimated at 14,500 souls ; of wliom 4000
are warriors. They possess a spacious tract, situated
east of lands owned by the Chiekasaws, on the south side
of the Tennessee, and betv^een that river and the head
branches of the Tombigbee.
The Cherokees have made considerable progress in a
knowledge of the useful arts ; particularly in the manu-
facture of cotton and woollen cloth. Cotton, and indi-
go for dying their yarn, they raise. They possess more
than 500 looms of their own workmanship, and have
learned the art of weaving skilfully. They possess up-
wards of 500 ploughs, which they employ in the cultiva-
tion of their lands. They own large stocks of cattle and .,
horses ; they have also many swiiae and some sheep, and
a plenty of poultry.
Thus supplied, abundantly with the means of good liv-
ing, their tribes are increasing in numbers. By the
schools which have been established among %em, their
children have been taught to read and write. Their pro-
gress in acquiring the elements of science, has fully
equalled that of the whites, with the same means of learn-
ing. Nature having endowed their persons with the most
complete forms, can it be doubted that their Creator
would impart to them correspondent intellectual facul-
ties ? Many of the men, and all the women, have adopt-
ed the modes of dress worn by the whites. Among the
rich are some who are dressed in costly apparel. Their
persons are kept remarkably clean and neat. Cherokee
women have been known to refuse white suitors for hus-
MISSISSIPPI. 181
bands, because they were uncleanly in tlieii- persons.
Their numerous streams of pure watei-, aftbrd them (aci-
lities for bathing, which they are in the constant Ivabit ot
practising. All can swim ; a faculty which enables them
conveniently to cross the large streams which meander
through their hunting grounds. The females are protect-
ed with great delicacy, from all impertinent intrusions,
when they go in to bathe. These Indians display great
hospitality in their houses ; and their bravery was ad-
mired by those who acted with them, in the late war
against the hostile Creeks. Nearly one half of the Che-
rokees are of mixed blood, by intermarriages with the
whites. Some of the full-blooded descendants from the
aborigines, have good complexions. The Cherokees
universally believe in one God : they call him the Great
Spirit : they speak of him with great reverence : in their
opinion, his attributes are goodness and power. Their
language furnishes no terms, a combination of which i3
expressive of profanity towards the Great Spirit.
The Choctaws are more numerous than the Cherokees.
They occupy the lands between the Yazoo and Tombig-
bee, and t!?e parallels of 31° and 34° north. The banks
of the Chickasaka, Yazoo, Pascagoula and Pearl rivers*
are inhabited by them. They have several neat public
inns, for the accommodation of travellers. Much of
their lands are timbered with pine; but a considerable
part is rich, the surface waving, and the growth hickory,
poplar, &c. They possess many large farms, in a good
state of cultivation ; and several of them are employed,
-most of their time, in agricultural pursuits. In times
past, they occupied 43 towns and villages, containing
about 12,000 souls, of which 4000 were waniors. It is
supposed, at present, their tribe is considerably more
numerous. Q
18;^ ,. MISSISSIPPI.
Animals. — Although game is not abundant, deer, bears,
wolves, panthers, wild cats, foxes, ground hogs and squir-
rels, are to be found ranging in the forests bordering on
the Mississippi.
The Salamander is of the size and form of the com-
mon rat, the head and teeth resembling those of a squir-
rel, and the eve small, like the mole. This animal bur-
rows horizontally in the ground ; its food is supposed to
be the bark of fine roots. It is a night-walker, for it
roams not in the day. Its jaws are strong, and its teeth
sharp, mth which severe wounds are sometimes inflicted.
These animals have their habitations near the Gulf coast.
. The Alligator is found in streams south of lat. 32° —
when full grown, he is from 15 to 20 feet long, and his
body sometimes as large as a horse : he is armed with a
kind of coat of mail, composed of scales, which on the
back are so hard as to be almost impenetrable to a rifle ^
ball. The female deposits her eggs where she scratches
a hole in the dry sand, and covers them over, and here
ends the provident care for her young; which, after be-
ing hatched froni the eggs by the warmth of the sun,
provide for themselves. The jaws of this c'reature are
very stout, and the teeth strong and irregular. Their
prey, if once seized on, is never suffered to escape : if
large, it is drowned in the water ; if small, it is devoured
on the shore ; — ^they often abstain from eating the ani-
mals they kill, until they become putrid in the water. —
They may be found basking on the shore, or on logs,
where they sleep. On the approach of rain, they make
a most terrifying roar, which resembles distant thunder.
When attacked at a distance from water, they defend
themselves vigorously to the last extremityi
'
MISSISSIPPI. 183
The Murena Siren resembles an eel in form, being
about two feet long. By perforating the mill-dams of
rice planters in the night, it does much injury in drain-
ing off the water. It has a thin, tough skin, covered with
fine scales of a dark brown color ; a small mouth with
sharp teeth ; two short legs, near the head, furnished
each with four toes and claws, by which it penetrates
mud and water with facility. The parting of the male
from the female, induces them to express their discon-
tent, by a noise which resembles the howling of a puppy.
It is supposed they feed on frogs, water lizards and mud-
worms.
The Gvuffre inhabits the pine barrens, mostly under
ground, except when in quest of food and water. It is
supposed to live on vegetable food. It wears a shell 15
feet long, and 12 inches wide. Its strength is so great,
as to enable it to carry a man standing on its back. It
burrows in the ground about ten feet deep. Its young
are brought forth in the manner of the loggerhead turtle,
which it resembles. It protects itself from injury by
closing its shell, and is rarely found a great distance
- from its den.
ALABAMA,
The state of Alabama is formed from the western por-
tion of the late Mississippi territory, and contains the
greater part of the valley of Mobile, and most of the
lands bordering on the streams which enter the bay of
Mobile, besides some of the lands contiguous to the Ten-
nessee and the Pascagoula. Alabama was incorporated
as a territory in 1817, and in 1819 was erected into a
state. The boundaries, as prescribed by act of Congress,
are as follow : Beginning at the point, where the line
of the thirty-first degree of north latitude intersects the
Perdido river ; thence east to the western boundary line
of the state of Georgia ; thence along said line to the
southern boundary line of the state of Tennessee ;
thence west, along said boundary line, to the Tennessee
river ; thence up the same, to the mouth of Bear creek ;
thence by a direct line to the northwest corner of Wash-
ington county; thence due south to the Gulf of Mexico;
thence eastwardly, including all the islands within six
leagues of the shore, to the Perdido river; and thence up
the same to the beginning : between latitude 30° l£'and
35° north : in length, more than 330 miles, and in breadth,
about 160 ; containing about 46,000 square miles. The
soil, climate and vegetable productions of this state, are
greatly diversified. Bordering the whole width on the
0,2
186
ALABAMA.
Tennessee, furnished with a considerable inlet from the
ocean, by Mobile Bay, intersected with rivers extensive-
ly navigable, and containing a large body of excellent
land, Alabama, both as it respects the objects of agri-
culture and commerce, presents to emigrants a local
position extremely eligible.
Face of the country, soil, 8^'c. — The following geo-
graphical sketches, which were communicated in tlie
public newspapers, by Mr. W. Roberts, one of the pub-
lic surveyors, is considered a more correct account of
the country intersected by the Alabama, and its tribut-a-
ries, the Tallapoosa and Coosa, than any yet published.
The communication will therefore be given in the words
of that author, who drafted it chiefly from personal obser-
vation :
" At the present period, when the spirit of emigration
to the late erected territory [now state] prevails, a cor-
rect topographical description of any part of it, cannot
fail to be acceptable.
" Having been engaged, for a considerable time past,
in surveying public lands, in several parts of the late
Creek cession, the account here offered is chiefly the re-
sult of actual observation, aided by information, derived
from other surveyors.
"The Alabama is known to be the principal river, flowing
through this country. Its general course from its head
or junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa to its junction
%vith the Tombigbee, is nearly southwest ; but in its
course hither, it makes one remarkable bend, an^I two
others of less note.
" From the junction of Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers, to
the mouth of the Cahaba, a distance by land of about
60 miles, the river runs but a little south of west j thence
ALABAMA. 187
the Alabama heights, or Fort Claiborne, by land 60
)r 70 miles, its course is but a little west of south ;
hence to the junction with the Tombigbee, about 60
niles further, its course is nearly southwest ; from this
joint to the Mobile, distant about 40 miles, the river runs
learly south again. Fort Claiborne is at the head of
chooner navigation. Large boats ascend from thence
up to Fort Jackson, by the Coosa river. The distance
Fort Jackson, by the Tallapoosa river, is five miles
[ess than by the Coosa, and the navigation throughout
the winter and spring is good. In dry seasons, however,
there is not sufficient depth of water for Alabama boats.
The Coosa riVer has a fine, deep channel from its mouth,
three miles by land below Fort Jackson, up to Wetumka,
on tlie Great Shoals, five miles above the fort. Here, in
the present state of things, we may reckon the head of
navigation on this river. From the Falls, this river is
the Indian boundary up to the mouth of Wills creek, 1 20
miles, or thereabouts.
" Tallapoosa is navigable, except in dry seasons, up
to the Great Falls, a few miles above Tookabache, and
about 35 miles above Fort Jackson. From the Falls
down to Fort Jackson, the general course of the Talla-
poosa is nearly west.
" The waters in these rivers, particularly the Talla-
poosa and Alabama, are subject to remarkable periodical
elevations and depressions, owing entirely to this cir-
cumstance : Many of their tributary streams, originally
in, and passing through a country founded on a bed of
limestone, are large and respectable water courses, in
the winter and spring ; but in the fall months, become
perfectly dry. In the Alabama and Coosa, however,
'there is always sufficient depth of water .for boating.
188 ALABAMA.
"Proceeding southwardly along the boundary line,
from the mouth of Lime creek, and up the same towards
Chatahoocha, at the distance of about 40 miles from Tal-
lapoosa, we come to the ridge separating the waters of
Tallapoosa and Alabama from those of Conecuh and
Escambia. This ridge proceeds westvvardly, in a direc-
tion nearly parallel with the rivers Tallapoosa and Ala-
bama. But bending less to the south, it approximates
very fast towards the river, below its bend, near the
mouth of Cahaba, and becoming less elevated and dis-
tinct, it is finally cut off" by the grand sweep of the river,^
along the Alabama heights.
" This tract of country, bounded on the north and west
by the river, on the east by the boundary line, and on the
south by the I'idge, is probably the largest body of good
land to be found any where within the limits of the
treaty, south of Tennessee river. It comprehends an
area of 60 townships, or about 2000 square miles, a con-
siderable portion of which is of the first quality : there
is but little of it that will fall below tjie rank of second
quality. About one-half of the townships, now oft'ered
for sale, lie in this district.
" The river cane bottom land, we suppose to be equal
in fertility to any on the continent, and may average ia
width a half or three-quarters of a mile ; the river wind-
ing through it in a serpentine course, and leaving the
cane land sometimes on this side, and sometimes on that:
the outside of the swamp, joining the high lands, as in
most rivers, is low, wet, and cut up with ponds and la-
goons. Next to the river swamp, and elevated above it
by a bluflf from 10 to 15 feet in height, we enter upon an
extensive body of level, rich land, of fine black or cho-
colate colored soil. The principal growth is hickory.
ALABAMA. 189
lack oak and post oak ; dogwood and poplar are also
ommon, but pine timber is rather scarce. This portion
f land is interspersed with reed marshes, out of which
)Sue constant running water, and also in many places,
'ith flat, wet weather ponds, holding water in winter
nd becoming dry ip summer ; after this comes in the
rairas. These are wide spreading plains of a level or
ently waving land, without timber, clothed in grass,
erbage and flowers, insulated by narrow skirts of rich
iterval woodland ; and exhibiting, in the month of May
le most enchanting scenery imaginable. The soil is
jnerally of a fine black, rich east, and has the appearance
i" great fertility. Should they prove to be as pi'oductive
the soil promises, they will be of great value, as the
cpense and labor of clearing them will be saved, and
e soil being of such a quality as will not wash away,
le land must be very durable. These prairas extend
aarly, or quite to the ridge ; and as the country is open,
?j and airy, it promises to be healthy. The only ob-
ction to tliis part Sf the country seems to be the want
water. This inconvenience, however, may probably
; removed, to a considerable extent, by digging wells,
his observation applies to most of the tract within the
nits mentioned, except the land immediately on the
ver, and distant from it from one to three miles. In
is range there is an abundance of cool and pleasant
>ring water, issuing from the bluffs and reedy heads
ready mentioned. Several large creeks water this
strict, M'hich will afford good winter navigation for
nail boats, of sufficient size to transport the produce
the incumbent farms to the river. The principal of
lese are the Catoma, Pinkohna, Pophlahla, and Big
wamp creek, all of which aSbrd •xtensive bottoms of
190 ALABAMA.
rich cane brake, and beech swamp. Families living on
and near the river, except in select places, will be subject
to intermittent bilious fevers ; but they have hitherto ap-
peared to be of a mild type.
" After passing the ridge, we enter into a country of
very different character and features from that just no»
ticed. It is generally pine land, intersected with innu-
merable creeks, rivulets, and branches, running south-
wardly into the bay of Escambia. The head waters of
Conecuh, which is the principal river emptying into the
bay, spread out over a large extent of country. The
creeks and branches have wide swamps, and are in gen-
eral, too low and wet for cultivation. They abound la
the finest timber, particularly white oak, of a superior
growth, swamp red oak, of an uncommon size and beauty,
beecli, maple, poplar, gum and cypress. The under
growth is reed and cane, palmettos, rattan, grape vines
and china brier. These swamps afford the finest stock
range imaginable, particularly for hogs ; as besides the
imn^ense quantity of oak and beech mast, tKere is a great
variety and plenty of ground nuts and roots, easily at-
tainable in the soft soil or mud of those swamps.
" On the margins of the creeks there are geneiallj
found strips of good land, from a quarter to half a mile
wide. In places it is very rich, bearing oak, hickory, ash,
and sometimes walnut trees.
" Next to this is very often found a skirt of rich pin€
land, dark mulatto soil, with hickory, buckeye and shrub-
bery, characteristic of rich land.
" From this kind of land there is a gradual declination
to the poor pine woods. On the heads of tlie numerous
branches of Conecuh, approaching the ridge, there is a
skirt of oak and hickory land, five or six miles, running
ALABAMA. 191
arallel with the ridge. The soil is mostly of a free, soft,
ray quality ; sometimes it is found rich, strong and red,
lothed with an agreeable mixture of oak,- hickory, pine,
opiar, ash, chesnut, dogwood, &c.
"The Sepulgas, Burnt Corn, and Murder creeks, lying
lore to the west, it is said, afford larger bodies of good
ind than Conecuh ; there are none, however, so far as
e can learn, very extensive on any of these waters.
" Of the extent of the navigation ot Conecuh, we have
satisfactory account. The surveyors, however, who
m the parallel townships from the Spanish line progres-
vely to the north, or up the river, found it no where
issable with their horses, within 50 miles of the Spanish
ne, without swimming their horses and constructing
ift^ for their packs. They report it to be a fine deep
lannel, with a slow eddy current. At a distance of
)out 50 or 60 miles above the line of demarcation, it
ivides into two large creeks ; and here is probably the
ead of boat navigation. The whole tract of country is
jundantly supplied with perennial springs of excellent
ater. Your approach to the water is always announ-
ed by the wide spreading cane brakes, which uniformly
)ver the wet bottoms of all the branches, and afford an
most inexhaustible range for cattle.
" No country affords a better prospect of health. From
le nature of the soil, however, the population must be
lin.
Of the mineral productions of this country, the most
jmarkable is the large quantity of stone, having the
ppearance of volcanic lava, lying in broken fragments,
oveiing the tops and sides of many of the hills compo-
tng the ridge, exhibiting evident marks of having once
een in a state of fusion. There are also several places
19S ALABAMA.
on the head branches of the Conecuh, where there nu
indications of iron ore, in considerable quantities ; ant
judging of its weight, and ferugiuous aspect, it is pro
bablj rich.
•^\mong the small prairies, in the western extremities d
their range, there are inexhaustible qtiarries of limestont
or solid blocks of hard, white, calcareous rock. By burn
ing a piece of this stone in a blacksmith's forge, am
slacking it, we found it to effervesce rapidly, and t(
make strong and beautiful lime. Amongthis limestone
there are also found many testaceous petrifactions, par
ticularly the oyster, clam, and cockle shells ; some o
which are remarkably large, retaining their original fomn
and exhibiting on their outsides all the lines and niche
of the shell in its natural state ; and on the inside, al
most as perfect a polish,as when the shell was first opened
" Those beds ot limestone (carbonate of lime) aregrea
natural curiosities, whether they are considered with re
gard to their origin, or the process by which those sub
stances have been changed from their original texture t<
their present state of petrifaction : and while they affpw
a rich subject of speculation to the naturalist and philo
sopher, they also supply the mechanic with an excelleH
material in masonry and architecture.
" Of the lands lying on the novth and west of Alabama
and Coosa, but little has been surveyed, and consequent
ly but little of them is known. An actual survey of thi
country will, however, soon be made j when its topogra
phical character will be ascertained.
" With respect to that part of the ceded lands whicl
fall within the limits of Gjeorgia, we have no authenti
information, but what is derived from a survey of it
boundaries J and even here, we are deficient In part, no
ALABAMA.
i93
laving the traverse of the Chatahooche river, which is the
-vestern boundary of this tract, from the mouth of Sum-
uochicola to the mouth of Flint river. The estimated
listance, liowever, between these two points, is 60 miles ;
:nd the course nearly south. Taking this, at present,
or the fact, we have the land in the form of a trapezium,
vhose average length, from east to west, is about 180
fiiles, and its average breadth, from north to south, about
iO miles. These dimensions will give a product of
1,900 square miles, or 7,616,000 acj^es. Judging of
lie interior of the country, from what has been seen on
;s boundaries, and the roads passing through it, except
?hat lies betwen Flint river and Chatahooche, all the rest
ould not be sold, for what it would cost the state to
urvey it. What lies between Flint and Chatahooche ri-
ers, however, deserves more attention. In order to form
ome estimate of the quantity of land comprehended in
lis district, we must ascertain, as nearly as practicable,
:s dimensions. The distance from the mouth of Sum-
lochicola to the mouth of Flint river, we have supposed
3 be sixty miles, course nearly south. From the mouth
f Summochicolai on the boundary line, to Flint river,
le distance is ascertained to be 60 miles and six perches,
ist. Thus we have two sides of the tract, 60 miles each,
itersected nearly at right angles.
" Flint river makes a large curve eastwardly or out-
ardly. This is inferred from its relative position, with
le Catahooche, at three several points above : On the
akfuske trail, the distance across from Flint river to
le Chatahooche, is about 30 miles : On the Federal road,
mning nearly west, and 30 or 40 miles lower down, the
stance across, is 57 miles : On the boundary line, sixty
' seventy miles below the road, it is 60 aeross. There
R
19i ALABAMA.
must then be a considerable bend in t]ie livei", somewhen
below the line. This bead is probably at the limestoni
bluff) 20 or 30 miles below the line, as il is represents
in Mr. Melish's late improved map of the United States
" From C * itahooche, on the line to Flint river, there i
about a third of the distance good land. In one place
particularly between Herod's creek and Kitchaphone (i
large creek) a distance of IT miles, there is a body of oal
and hickory land of a good second quality, finely tim
bered, and lying sufficiently level, extending without i
break, from Herod's creek to within a mile of the larg(
creek, Kitchaphone, a distance of 16 miles. In this lane
we found no water crossing the line between the twt
creeks. Water was found, however, on the outside o
the line. Thence to Flint river the land is generally
poor, except about a half mile on the river, which is i
fine, soft, gray land, well timbered, and near the river, q;
a rich soil. *^
" Between the two rivers, we cross five large creeksj
each of which affords more or less good land; and on oi|e
or two of them (Kiltchaphone and Amakulla) there is a
prospect of good mill seats.
" Proceeding from the line down towards the point, I
am told the proportion of good land increases. But be
the proportion of the good land more or less, as it is the
only part of the whole tract, received from the general
government, that v\'ill afford any revenue, it would be
well for the state to make some disposition of it and
bring the funds thence arising into operation."
An elongation of the state of Alabama, between Wesi
Florida and the state of Mississippi, including Mobile
Bay, extends from 31° north latitude, to the Gulf of Mex-
ico. This tract, which is fonned out of West Florida,
ALABAMA. 195
leriving more importance from its position, than from
ts extent or productions, contains about 3850 square
niles, including the islands Dauphin, Massacre and
i^etite Bois.
Mobile Bay affords the most commodious entrance
nto the interior on the Gulf coast, within the United
States. Dauphin island is nearly five miles long, form-
ng a triangle ; it is low, sandy and barren. A long, low
and bar from the eastward, approaches within three miles
f the island. The main pass between Dauphin island
md Mobile Point ; and pass au Heron, between Dau-
)hin island and the main shore ; each afford an entrance
nto Mobile Bay. The main pass is circuitous and nar-
ow, winding round Mobile Point. The intermediate
pace between the pass and the east points of the island,
s shallow. The other pass has only six feet depth over
ts bar.
It may be generally remarked of Alabama, that the
lorthern parts of it are broken, near the Tennessee line ;
,t the northeast corner, it is mountainous ; the middle
s hilly ; and contiguous to the Florida line, a space, oc-
upying in width from 50 to 60 miles, is timbered with
ypress, loblolly and long and short leafed pine. The
argest portion of the surface of the whole state is baiTen ;
he prevailing growth, pine. The alluvion constituting
he margin of streams, is very productive ; next in fer-
ility are the slopes of hills, by the people called ham-
nocks ; the soil of the latter being composed of sand
md clay ; timber, pine, oak, hickory, sweet gum, and
logwood. Here, it is believed, the wine grape would
iourish ; the position and soil exactly agreeing with
hose places in France, where the finest vineyards of
Europe are planted. But the more fertile portions which
.fford the productions that are necesssary to the susten-
. -^uJ^^lAi - .
196 ALABAMA.
tation of life, will be first cultivated. The handmaids
of luxury, such as the cultivation of the grape, must be
preceeded by an advanced state of agriculture, a dense
population and an accumulation of wealth.
Between the Cunecuh and the Chatahooche, the land
is broken and waving ; the high lands parting their
waters, consist of elevated tracts, flat, light and sandy,
abounding in willow leafed hickory, and containing some
iron ore ; all the streams having cane on their margins,
and frequently some oranges. The soil of the waving
land consists of a stiff, red loam, with stone on the
ridges : the pine land is productive of corn.
Between the Mobile and the Perdido, the soil is thin ;
timber, pine and cypress. The head waters of Escanv
bia and Cunecuh, intersect a region productive of cotton
and sugar, containing orange groves. -i
Along the Tensaw, are many pine and cypres trees y
near the river are cane brakes, and some cypress swamps.
Bordering on the Alabama, are cane swamps, inter*
spersed with pine flats, covered with soil suital?le for
sugar, cotton or corn. The swamps, at and below the
confluence with the Tombigbee, are subject to occasional
inundations ; further up, the swamps are extensive,
where the musquetoes are very troublesome. Adjacent
to the swamps, for a mile in width, is a sterile, stiff clay ;
the growth, pine and underbrush ; further back, are bro-^
ken pine barrens; and on the streams, cypress ponds and
cane brakes. Fifty miles above the confluence of the
Alabama with the Tombigbee, the high, broken lands
commence, extending in width sixty miles : timber, oak,
hickory, poplar and large cedars.
The best lands in the state, are supposed to lie be-
tween the Alabama and Tombigbee ; the bottoms of the
Black Warrior, (whose banks abound with stone coal)
ALABAMA. 197
and Bear creek, are excellent ; as also those of the Tal-
lapoosa.
Between the dividing ridge that separates the waters
of the Cunecuh from those of the Alabama, and the latter
river, is a tract of rich land, about 30 miles long and 20
wide ; the timber of a large growth, and the cane abun-
dant ; the country well watered, and intersected by
many creeks ; the surface undulating and overspread
with tall grass.
At the sources of Limestone creek, is a fine tract of
land, 20 miles in length, and about 8 wide ; well suppli-
ed with water; the prevailing growth dogwood.
Sixty miles above the junction of the Coosa and Tal-
lapoosa, is a high waving country, with fine springs of
water ; growth, mulberry, poplar, black walnut, &c.
where tlie Creek Indians are settled. The streams are
margined with cane ; the surrounding country broken
and gravelly.
Indian Cession. — There has been an extinguishment
of the Indian claims to an extent of territory in Alabama,
squal to three-fourths of the state. Tiie Coosa river is
now, by Jackson's treaty, the Indian boundary from the
slands in that river to Wetumka, or the Great Falls
lear Fort Jackson, From Wetumka, the boundary line
extends eastwardly about 18 miles ; thence southwardly
icross the Tallopoosa, to the mouth of the Ofuskee, and
ip the Ofuskee ten miles ; thence south 49° 16' east,
')7 miles to the mouth of Summochicola, on the Chatta-
looche, 46 miles above 31 degrees north latitude, on
he Alabama and West Florida ; and from the mouth
f the Summochicola, due east, through the state of
Jeorgia to the Altainaha, two miles east of Goose creek.
^e whole of the Creek country, west and south of the
R 2
198 ALABAMA.
Alabama, and the line above mentioned, was ceded to
the United States by the treaty with general Jackson.
It is supposed, that of the lands ceded by the late treaty,
about 17,000 square miles are within the state of Ala-
bama.
Topographical. — The whole extent of surface drain-
ed by the Tombigbee, Black Warrior, Alabama, Coosa,
Tallapoosa and Cahaba, exceeds 26,000,000 acres. —
This great region will require a central point, near the
head of Mobile Bay, for an emporium of commerce.
For the attainment of this privilege, Mobile town and
Blakely are the two most prominent candidates. Mo-
bile stands upon the west side of the bay of that name,
in 30° 40' north latitude. This town, though establish-
ed at the time of the first settlements of the French in
Louisiana, has never flourished under the French or
Spanish, as a commercial town, but has been occupied
by them merely as a military post. But since the event
of the late war, which put the fertile regions, boi'dering
on the tributaries of the river Mobile, into the possession
of the United States, the town has assumed a new ap-
pearance. The sits of this town is elevated 15 or 20
feet above the tide water : it is dry and solid. Vessels
can be brought near the shore, and the harbor is com-
pletely sheltered from storms or sudden attacks of an
enemy by water. But there are serious impediments
•pposed to the prosperity of this town : the country in
its rear, consists of barren lands : the approach by water,
is rendered somewhat difficult, from a low, grassy island
lying opposite to the town ; and the same wind, ena^
bling a vessel to enter the Bay, will not impel it to Mobile.
But the most effectual obstacle to the advancement of
Mobile, is tjiat of a preferable commercial depot, on the
ALABAMA. 199
eastern and opposite side of the Bay, where a town has
lately been commenced by the name of Blakely. This
town is more easy of access from the ocean and the
country than Mobile. The Tensaw, the eastern branch
9f the Mobile river, on which Blakely stands, is deeper
ind wider than the western ; and the same wind which
jnables a vessel to enter the bay,will carry her to Blakely.
Blakely is supplied with copious springs of pure, cool
ivater ; and nature has provided a good route for a road,
)n the dividing ridge, which separates the branches of
the Cunecuh and Escambia from those of the Alabama.
Fort Stoddart, a place of little note, is situated on
the west bank of the Alabama.
Fort St. Stevens stands on the west bank of the Tom-
>igbee, at the head of schooner navigation": it has been
the seat of government for the late territory, and occu-
Dies a situation naturally advantageous for the purposes
)f coinmerce. It contains a bank and an academy.
Huntsville, in M&dison county, is a flourishing village,
and is surrounded by an extensive, wealthy settlement.
This town contains a bank. Other towns and villages
are of so recent a date, that little is known of their pro-
gress or prospects.
The following table exhibits the state of population in
Alabama, as apportioned in the several counties, in 1816.
Counties. Fopulation. Chief Towns.
Baldwin
1,163
Fort Stoddart
Clark
4,196
Jackson
969
Madison
14,200
Huntsville
Mobile
1,300
Mobile
Washington
2,559
St. Stevens
300 ALABAMA.
Climate, vegetable productions, forest trees, state of
health, Sfc. — The climate on and adjacent to Mobile Bay
is represented bj gentlemen who have resided there
many years, as both pleasant and salubrious. It is said
to be much preferable to the same parallel of latitude
on the Mississippi and in the state of Georgia ; and tlmt
the heat in summer, by means of tlie sea breezes, which
blow up the bay from the Gulf, and the natural elevation
of the country, is rendered less oppressive than in the
middle states. The diseases are less violent, fewer in
number, and more easily removed by medicine than ift
almost any section of the United States ; certain local
situations excepted. The variety of productions near
the Mobile, is said to be remarkable. Says a gentleman
from Pennsylvania, who had resided many years at St«
Stevens, in a letter to a friend, "On the same plantation
I have seen the apple, cherry, orange, fig, quince, Irish
potatoe, wheat, rye, buckwheat, iiax, cotton and sugai*
cane, grow well ; nearly all of which excel." He
also adds, " The groves of white oaks are immense on the"
margins of the rivers ; and the groves of red cedar, pine
and cypress, are extensive." The oysters and fish o^
Mobile bay are represented of an excellent quality.
It has been the opinion of naturlists, that most of the
productions of the tropical climates would flourish near
the Gulf coast. It is thought, that the olive, the vine and
the tea plant might be made to flourish here. With a
view to make an experiment of this kind, the general
government have granted to a company of French emi-
grants, 92,160 acres, to be located on lands ceded by the
Creek Indians to the United States ; on condition, that
they shall introduce the culture of the vine and the olive.
Among the vegetable productions, not yet cultivated in
ALABAMA. SOI
United States, of the most importance, are the vine,
olive and the white mulberry, which have been found
lourish in the vicinity of each other. The climate
the soil in many parts of the three states, bordering
Gulf coast, are favorable to these productions, unless
ropitious natural qualities exist there, which have not
been discovered.
EAST AND WEST FLORIDA.
Of the two Floridas, we have it not in our power ta
communicate more than some general outlines. To this
section of the western country we have never extended
our excursions, nor is it within our knowledge, that any
minute, accurate geographical description has ever been
published. As the Floridas, though not within, is an in-
tegral, and from their position would be an important
portion of the United States, we deem it proper to sub-
mit to our readers such sketches of the country as have
come to our notice.
East and West Florida are bounded by Georgia on
the north, by the state of Alabama on the w^st, by the
Gulf of Mexico on the south, and by the Atlantic ocean
on the east. Length 600, and breadth 400 miles ; be-
tween 4° 28' and 10° 18' west longitude, and 25° and 32*
north latitude.
In 1497, Sebastian Cabot discovered the Floridas. The
French first established themselves there, in 1564; from
whence they were compelled to retire, in the following
year, by the Spaniards, who took possession of the coun-
try and retained it, till the treaty of peace in 1763, when;
it was ceded to England in exchange for tlie Havanna,
that had been taken from the Spaniards. While in pos-
session of the former, it was divided into East and West
Florida — which, during the American war, in 1781, were
captured by the Spaniards, to whom they were relin-
quished by tke peace of 1783.
THE FLOUIDAS.
203
The climate is represented as being not very dissimi-
lar from that of Georgia, and for so southern a hititude,
remarkably healthy. East Florida, for about 40 miles in
width on the sea border, is flat and sandy ; yet the soil
is considered productive, as spots here, apparently most
barren, produce two crops of Indian corn a year. The
orange and lemon trees grow without cultivation, to a
arge size, and bear better fruit than in Portugal or Spain.
^. large tract bordering on the river St. Johns, is repre-
sented as fertile and well adapted for spacious planta-
tions. The inland country, towards the hills, is covered
ivith a soil remarkably rich, pi ouucin^'*, spontaneously, all
;he fruits and vegetables whic'j ilourish in Georgia and
he Carolinas, and the soutliern climates of Europe. —
nice, indigo and cochineal, are also produced in this
:ountry.
Of the Rivers in East Florida, St. Johns is the princi-
)al ; which, after running, nearly in a north direction,
nor e than 270 miles, including its curvatures, ii tuinis,
md pursuing a north-east direction nearly 30 miles fur-
her, flows into the Atlantic, a few miles south of Geor-
gia. This river is navigable above the bar, for vessels of
onsidefable burthen, 150 miles. The Appalachicola rises
rom the Appalachian mountains, passes through Geor-
ia, hy the name of Chatahoochep, and, separating East
rom West Florida, discliarges its waters into the Gulf
f Mexico ; being in length, about 400 miles. The other
lost considerable rivers are, the JVassau, ^'^t. JVicholas,
^orelia, St. Pedro, Jisilla, Vilchees, and St. Marks.
Iron ore, copper, quicksilver, and pit-coal, are produ-
ed in the country, and several species of precious stones
re said to have been found.
ig04 THE FLORIDAS.
Pensacola is the chief town in East Florida, north iat.
5-2° 32' west long. 10° 18' It is situated in a bay of the
same name, upon a gentle rising ascent. The shore, near
the town, is sandy, and is accessible to vessels of bur-
then. The road is one of the best on the Gulf coast:
and the harbor, being surrounded by land, is spacious,
commodious and safe.
St. Augustine, the metropolis of East Florida, in north
lat. 29° 45' west long. 4° 20', is situated on the main,
about two miles within the bar, immediately opposite the
inlet. The bar is covered by about 15 feet of water.
The town is of an 6blong form, divided by four regular
streets, crossing at right angles. The town is fortified
with bastions enclosed with a ditch, and defended by a
castle. The island of Matanzies extends parallel with
the coast, before the town, forming a point of St. Augus-
tine inlet. This island is principally solid rock, compo-
sed of sea shells conci'eted. With the fragments of this
rock, fort St. Marks, and most of the houses in the city,
were built. By the application of a good cement to these
rocks, the whole becomes a solid compact mass. In the
rear of the city, is an impassable morass, almost sur-
rounding it ; on the margin of which are erected six re-
doubts. The fort is 20 feet high, and the walls 12 feet
thick, and mounts 36 guns : it is four square, with a bas-
tion at each corner, mounting eight 24 pounders each.
The city contains about 500 houses chiefly of stone, with
a population of 5000 souls, mostly Minorcans and natives.
The remains of a more flourishing state of the city, now
evidently declining, are conspicuous.
LOUISIANA.
Louisiana was formed into a state in 1812. It is
)ounded north by Arkansaw territory, east by the state
>f Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. The boundary
ine is formed by the river Mississippi, from 33° to 31**
lorth ; thence by the parallel of 31° to Pearl river:
hence by that stream to its mouth. The Gulf of Mex-
co forms the southern boundary ; and Sabine river the
vestern, from its mouth to latitude 32° north ; thence
he boundary line proceeds due north, to latitude 33° ;
hence due east to the Mississippi : between longitude
2° and 17° 3'; latitude, from 29° to 33° north ; 240
fiiles long, from north to south, and 210 broad ; contain-
iig 48,220 square milQS.
By the census of 1810, this state, then territory of
Means, contained 75,556 inhabitants, of which 34,660
vere slaves. When erected into a state, part of West
I'lorida, consisting of the parishes of New-Feliciana,
•last Baton Rouge, St. Helena, and St. Tammany, were
annexed to it.
s
206 LOUISIAJJA.
The following is an account of the parishes, square
miles and population, as exhibited in 1810.
JParishes. Square miles. Population
Ascension 350 2,219
Assumption • 500 2,475
Avoyelles 700 1,109
West Baton Rouge 850 i,463
Concordia 2,100 2,875
Iberville 350 2,679
Interior of Lafourche S,500 1,995
]Natchitoches 10,600 .2,870
Ouachitta 4,000 1,164
Orleans 1,300 24,552
Plaquemines 1,500 l,549f
Point Coupee 600 4,539
Rapides 2,300 2,300
St. Bernard 400 1,020
St. Charles 300 3,291
St. James 170 3,955
St. John Baptiste 150 2,990
St. Landre Opelousas 7,600 5,048
St. Mary's and St. Martin's ? 5 inn 7 '^69
Attacapas 3 ' '^
East Baton Rouge - 500"^
New-Feliciana 1,050 I iaaaa
St. Helena 1,300 f ^^>^^^':
St. Tammany 2,000j i
Total 48,220 86,556'-^
A large number of the inhabitants are French an
Spanish.
Mew-Orleans, on an island of the same name, is a poi
of entry and the capital of the state, 105 miles by wate
and 90 in a direct Ijne to the mouth of the Mississippi
1260 miles from the city of Washington, in latitude 29
57' north; longitude 12° 58'. The population of 180J
was estimated at about 10,000 ; by the census of 18l(
it was 17,242, of whom 5,961 were slaves ; in 1818, th
number was supposed about 37,000, The city stands a
LOUISIANA. SO7
^le east bank of the Mississippi, at one end of a southern
ow in the river, in a position " which presents the eas-
Brn bank of the other extremity, to the west view of the
ity. The streets are 40 feet wide, crossing at right
ngles- Next the river, most of the houses are built
nth brick, and in the back part with wood. The cellars
re formed from the surface without digging, by setting
le buildings high from the ground. Beautiful gradens,
rnamented with orange groves, are attached to many of
he houses in the suburbs. The coantry here is lower
han the surface of the river, which is confined within
ts channel by artificial embankments, called a Levee,
xtending more than 100 miles.
The city contains a court house, jail, market house,
rsenal, governor's palace, custom house, hospital, a thea-
re, catholic college, female orphan asylum, a nunnery^
ontaining about 40 nuns, three insurance offices, four
tanks, one a United States' branch, and three houses of
)ublic worship, one Catholic, one Episcopal, and one
resbyterian. Besides these, are two chapels and a
ilall, where public worship is performed. Most of tlie
3ublic buildings are large and handsome. There are
ive newspapers, three printed in English, and the other
wo in French and English.
In tlie year ending 1st October, 1817, 1,500 flat bot-
toiii boats and 500 barges arrived in this port from the
ipper country. At the present, 1819, are on the M'aters
af Mississippi and its tributaries, including those on the
stocks, nearly 100 steam boats ; most of which, directly
or indirectly, are concerned in trade at New-Orleans.
The amount of the exports from this city, in the year
preceding October, 1817, was 813,501,036 72 cts. This
place, which, from its local position, will embrace the
■ li •jif^iiaiaii
S08 LOUISIANA.
trade of a country, naturally fertile, extending over SC
degrees of longitude and 20 of latitude, is destined to be
©ne of the most commercial and flourishing cities in tht
world.
Face of the country, navigable streams, soil, iimbei
growth, agricultural prochictions, S^c. ^c. — The island
of New-Orleans is formed by the river Mississippi on
one side, and the lakes Ponchartrain and Mauiepas, to-
gether with an outlet of the Mississippi, called the rivei
Iberville, on the other. It is in length, about 160 miles
and from 3 to 5 broad. It produces sugar, lemons,
oranges and figs. >
From Fort St. Philip, to the bar at the mouth of th«
Mississippi, a distance by water of 35 miles, the neck ol
land on both sides of the river, is mostly marsh praira
and unfit for cultivation. It exhibits a dreary appear-
ance, and is uninhabited, except by a few fishermen and
some pilots near the bar.
St. Philip, opposite a short bend in the river, to
whicli the swamps nearly approach, affords an advali-
lageous site for a military post, from which to annoy an
enemy in ascending the river. The value of Fort St.
Philips, as a place of defence, was made coBspicuoiis in
the reception it gave the enemy in the late war. The
settlements of Terre aux Boeiif are connected with tliose
on the Mississippi. This is a rich ti-act of land and
productive of sugar and cotton. Much of the timber
growth is excellent live oak, which is going to decay
from the practice of burning the grass around the trees,
Just below this place, is the great bend, calletl \\\e Eng-
lish Turn, deriving its name from the circumstance of a
deception imposed by a French oflicer on the comman-
der of an English squadron, sent out in the early settle-
LOUISIANA. 209
menttaof the country, to explore the great Canadian
river, as the Mississippi was then called. On the Eng-
ish commander being informed, after ascending the
iver thus far, by the Frenclyiaan, that the object of h.w
inquiry was further westward ; he immediately desist-
id from his pursuits further up, and returned with his
leet to the Gulf.
The country adjacent, which spreads out towards
ake Borgne and Chandeleur Bay, is a morass, destitute
•f timber, and covered with grass.
There are six outlets to the Mississippi ; the west,
outhwest, south main, or northeast, north, and Pass a
I Loutre. Of these, the northwest and northeast, liave
ach about an equal depth of water, viz. twelve feet on
lieir respective bars. The west pass has nine feet, the
outh eight, and the north and Pass a la Loutre, also
bout eight feet. Latterly the northeast pass is almost
xclusively used. It has been formerly supposed, that
permanent improvements could be made in removing
le obstructions to the passage of ships at the mouth of
le Mississippi, on account of the changes that were be-
eved to be constantly happening to the channel. But
om critical examination, this has been ascertained to
} an ill grounded opinion. The bottoms of^most of the
isses appear to be a hard, tough, tenacious clay ; and
ttle doubt is entertained, that a considerable greater
jpth of water at the bar may be effected, that will re-
ain permanent.
The nearest point in lake Ponchartraiu to Nevv-
rleans, is at, or about Fort St. Johns, which stands on
creek of the same name, that heads in a swamp, south-
est of New-Orleans, and aft^ meandering about six
lies, discharges into lake Ponchartrain. The depth of
»2
SIO LOUISIANA.
water in this jcreek varies, according to the rise and fall
of the water in the lake, from three to nine feet. The
creek is connected by a canal, with a basin, beliind the
Charity Hospital of New-0^;leans, large enough for many
small vessels. The canal is about 20 feet wide, and
extends, in a direct line, about two miles, to the creek.
This water communication from the city to lake Pon-
chartrain, affords such important commercial facilities,
that it is contemplated to deepen the channel and ex-
tend it to tlie Mississippi.
What is called the inside passage from New-Orleans
to Mobile Bay, is safe and commodious for small vessels.
This passage is througli lakes Ponchartrain and Borgne,
which are connected by the Rigolets, that constitute the
mouth of the Pearl, which communicates with each of
these lakes.
The pass of the Rigolets, affording nine feet water, is,
excepting the Mississippi, the most important inlet of
Louisiana, both as it respects commerce and national
defence. ' .
A long peninsula, stretching southwestwardly by lake
Borgne, and 8 or 10 long, narrow islands, lying parallel
with the Gulf coast, in an aastwardly position to the Bay
of Mobile, smooth the roughness of the Gulf waters and
render a passage by water between New-Orleans and
Mobile, secure and pleasant. Vessels drawing six feet
water, may perform this voyage conveniently.
Lake Borgne is about 35 miles long, in its extent from
the mouth of Bayou Bienvenu to Cat island, with an ave-
rage v^idth of twelve miles, and embraces two groups
of small islands. Its waters are -generally shoal : with
the exception of a narrc^w channel extending on its north-
LOUISIANA. Sll
western border, there is not more than two feet of water
covering its whole space.
From the eastern extremity of lake Borgne, there are
three passes, viz. Christian, Marianne, and that of tlie
northeast : the former is generally traversed, in trips be-
tween New-Orleans and Mobile. The southwestern and
northern parts of Cat Island afford good anchorage.
Though this island is but a bank of sand, its position is
important. The British occupied the harbor to die south
of the island, by their ships of the line ; and to the north,
they stationed their "smaller vessels, during their late
campaign in Louisiana.
The country between the Mississippi, Iberville and
Pearl rivers, including the parishes of East Baton Rouge,
New-Feliciana, St. Helena and St. Tammany, embraces
some of the most valuable tracts of land in the state.
The southern parts are level, but ricli, and adapted to
the growth of sugar cane, cotton, rice and indigo : the
northern, are diversified by a waving surface, and shaded,
where uncultivated, with a heavy growth of white, red
and yeUov^ oak, hickory, black walnut, magnolia and pop-
lar. New-Feiiciana'has been distinguished by the appel-
lation of "Garden of Louisiana."
, In this part of the country are many spacious planta-
tions : the soil of which is of a superior quality. Some
of the wealthy planters, individually, employ more than
SOO slaves ; with whom they cultivate from 400 to 1000
acres of land, and raise annual cotton crops, growing on
fields to the extent of £00 or SOO acres.
About 20 miles east of Baton Rouge, a region of an
undulating surface commences, which is spread out as
far as Pearl river. This district is among the most healthy
lia Louisiana. The soil, though sandy, is very productive.
SIS LOUISIANA.
A large poition of the northern borders of lakes M^u-
repas, Ponchartrain and Borgne, is covered with soil con-
sisting of sea sand, intermixed with the decayed remains
of sea shells. Although apparently a sterile, dry sand,
it produces with great luxui'iance, in a long succession
of crops, without manure, every species of vegetable
which flourishes in the climate. At a depth beneath the
surface, beyond the reach of vegetable roots, is a strong
adhesive clay.
A complete specimen of the land last described, may
be found on the island at the mouth of Pearl river. To
the northward of the last mentioned lakes, for an extent,
in some places, of more than 20 miles, the lands appear
to have been gained from the waters by the recession of
the ocean. They are sandy and dry, and afford healthy
habitations. The soil, for a good distance northwardly
from the lakes, resembles the earth composing their bot-
toms. The southern borders of these lakes, are low
and marshy. Madisonville, 26 miles north of New-
Orleans, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the
Chefuncti, two miles above its discharge into th£ north
part of lake Ponchartrain. Its situation is advantageous
for the coasting or West India trade. A sea vessel will
approach it in 14 days less time, and return two days
sooner than to and from New-Orleans. It also posseses
more conveniencies for building and repairing vessels.
It is likewise considered more favorable to health, and
less liable to be infested with musquetoes, than New-
Orleans. The natural advantages peculiar to Madison-
ville, have induced the general government to establish
a navy yard there. The bordering wild lands abound in
pine ; some of which shoot up 70. or 80 feet, clear of
limbs, except near the top. Live oak, cypress, magno-
* LOUISIANA. SIS
lia, plum, gum, bay, cotton wood, ash, willow, and cane
brakes are also plenty : the latter are indicative of a
rich, deep, dry soil.
Settlements are interspersed along the margin of the
sound, and the inhabitants have large stocks of cattle and
horses, and furnish lime and tar for New-Orleans. The
lime, being mostly composed of oyster shells, is of an
excellent quality.
There is a strong probability that the grape vine and
olive, if properly cultivated, v.ould flourish on a large
portion of the fine tracts of land, which are spread out
extensively in many parts, bordering the Gulf coa«t. An
experiment of this kind, of which mention has been made,
is about being effected on a large scale, by French emi-
grants.
The country west of the Mississippi, within the juris-
diction of the United States, presents materials to the
naturalist and political philosopher, for grand and com-
prehensive views. Here tl»e works of nature are dis-
played on a much broader plan than in the eastern sec-
lion of the Union. Long ranges of* cloud-topped moun-
tains, numerous great rivers, " that wander through a
world of woods," hardly yet traversed, except by wild
animals, or the footsteps of the roving savage, and a vast
variety of soil afid climate, vegetable and mineral pro-
ductions, display, for tlie contemplation of civilized man,
subjects new, interesting and sublime. What a theatre
in this extended space* for the developement, and we
could feign hope, triumph, of free republican institutions!
What means of multiplying and sTibsisting millions of
human beings ! What a spacious asylum for foreign
emigrants, AAhose patience and means of sustaining life
have been exhausted by the wretched, tyrannic policy of
the old world !
S14 LOUISIANA.
It has been the opinion of men well versed in the geo-
graphy and history of the country, that Louisiana, as ce-
ded to the United States, included all that part of North
America comprised in the western slope of the Missis-
sippi valley, and the inclined plane south of Red river,,
and east of the Rio Grande del Norte. The section of
country we shall first attempt to describe, lies south of
the Arkansaw, and west of the Mississippi, comprising
two-thirds of the state of Louisiana, the province of Tex-
as, and a space exceeding 1,000,000 square miles in the*
territories of Missouri and Ai'kansaw. Its outlines are
distinctly marked trj^ natural boundaries ; the Gulf of^
Mexico and Rio Grande del Norte on the west, the Ar-i
kansaw river on the north, and the Mississippi on the^
east.
Streams — Lakes — Surface— 'Soil— 'Vegetable and Mi-
neral productions. — A description oi the Mississippi,
Arkansaw and Red rivers, may be fqund in our prelimi-
nary remarks.
The Washitatakes its rise in north latitude 34° 39'"
and west longitude 1*9°, between the Arkansaw and Red
rivers. Three branches unite to form this river, about
200 miles from their sources. Below this junction, the
Washita pursues a course a little east of south ; runs in
a direct line 250 miles, and flows into R^d river SO miles
above the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi.
At a distance of 30 miles above its mouth, as the Washita
runs, after receiving the tribute oT the Tensaw and Oca-
tahoola rivers, it assumes the name of Black river.
The Atchafalaya is an outlet of the Mississippi, from
which it commences two miles below the junction of the
latter with Red river ; and pursuing a course of 193 miles,
it discharges into a bay of the same name, bordering on
the Gulf coast.
LOUISIANAj S15
Southwest of Red river, another groupe of rivers, all
pursuing nearly a southeast course, flow towards the
Gulf. Of this description are the Teche, Mermentau,
Calcassiu, ^abine. Trinity, Brasses a Dios, Colorado,
Guadaloupe, St. Antonio, Nueces and Rio Grand del
Norte. Within the tract intersected by these streams,
the only mountains are the Masserne and St. Saba. The
Masserne, a projection of the Chippewan, branches into
several detached parts between Red and Arkansaw
rivers. This mountain, though supposed to abound in
valuable minerals, as yet has been but imperfectly ex-
plored.
St. Saba, of which but little is known, is a detached
chain of mountains, which parts the head waters of
streams flowing into Red river and the Gulf of Mexico.
The region betw^een the Arkansaw river and the Gulf
of Mexico, may be classed into two 'distinct species of
soil and surface, the alluvial and the dry and sandy ;
the latter, partly praira and partly forest, lying principal-
ly to the west and southwest of the former. The flooded
marsh, bordering the Gulf coast, may be considered but
the termination of each species.
The extent of praira in the state of Louisiana, has
been much overrated. Including the swamps bordering
on the Gulf coast, it cannot exceed one-fifth part of the
whole surface. With the exception of smajl parcels scat-
tered over the country, the prairas are all connected in
one continuous body, winding in various forms of ramifi-
cation, from the Pearl to the Sabine river.
There are two routes from New-Orleans to Opelousas
and Attacapas ; the upper by Plaquen^ine, and the lower
"by Lafourche and Teche. The former is most used in
transporting articles of commerce, which are commonly
316 LOUISIANA.
carried in large barges from 20 to 50 tons burden. A
communication on water is practicable by the Plaque-
mine, only when the Mississippi is high. The former is
a small outlet from the Mississippi, which ceases toiloAV
when the latter falls about 10 feet.
The banks of Plaquemine are very fertile. As they
recede from the Mississippi, they are gradually depress-
ed. This stream runs but 15 miles before it joins the
Atchafalaya. The left shore only of Plaquemine is in-
habited ; the (rther being too low for cultivation. Some
valuable farms are to be found on tliis stream, of which
the produce, generally, is cotton and lumber.
The Atchafalaya flows with great rapidity, when the
Mississippi is high, but during low water, no current
enters, and the whole length of the stream becomes stag-
nant. Some few settlements have been made on the
banks ; but, although the soil is rich,* o much of it is in-
undated, that little remains lit for cultivation. On its
left shore, for about six miles from its eflHux, a narrow
strip of high land borders the stream; and below the
Bayou de Glaize, which enters it from .the west, a few
small spots of high land appear. The Atchafalaya k
much obstructed by driftwood that floats out of the Mis-
sissippi. Twenty miles below lake Natchez, the Atclia-
falaya joins lake Chetimaches, and three miles lower
down, receiv.es the Teche river. Twenty miles below
the mouth of Teche, the Atchafalaya discharges into th6
Gulf of Mexico. If the rafts which incumber this river,
were removed, its channel would afford great commer-
cial facilities.
The route from Atchafalaya, to the central parts qf
the Attacapas, most frequented by navigators and travel-
lersi leads by the lower Tensaw into lake Chetinaaches,
LOUISIANA. SI7
the Fausse point landing, and thence to St. Martins-
ille. It can, however, be used only in high water.
Opelousas is bounded south by the Gulf of Mexico ;
vest by the Sabine river; north by 31° north latitude;
lortheast by the parish of Avoyelles ; east by Atchafa-
aya ; and southeast by Attacapas.
Mtacapas is bounded southwest and south by the
3ulf of Mexico, southwest by the Opelousas, and north-
ast by Atchafalaya river. Opelousas covers 7600, and
ittacapas 5100 square miles. Opelousas is watered by
he Sabine, Calcasiu, Mermentau, Courtableau, and At-
hafalaya: Attacapas, by the Mermentau, VernuUion,
Teche and Atchafalaya. An immense chain of lakes
md bays extends by the Gulf of Mexico, in front of Ope-
ousas and Attacapas ; Sabine lake, Calcasiu lake, Mer-
nentau lake, the three bays of Vermillion, Cote Blanche
and Atchafalaya, and lake Chetimaches,
Sabine river is part of the western limit of the state
of Louisiana, and a boundary of Opelousas. The mouth
of this river lies in 29° 36' north latitude and 16° 57'
west longitude. The adjacent country is an entire, open
praira, on whicli a single tree is not visible from the sea-
sliore. The width of the river, at its mouth, is about a
quarter of a mile ; which width extends for six miles up,
where it expands eight miles broad, into a shoal lake,
and preserves that breadth for 30 miles in extent ; its
medium depth not exceeding three feet. The country
surrounding this lake is all praira. A few trees of
stinted growth, are found at the head of the lake. Th«
Natchez, pursuing nearly a south course, discharges inte
this lake, within three miles of its head from the Sabine.
Above the lake, the river is contracted to the width of
*00 yards j its channel winding and variously ramified.
T
§18 LOUISIANA.
The praira stretches out ten miles above the lake, am
terminates in pine woods ; which is the prevailing tim
ber on and near the Sabine. As far as the bounds o
Opelousas ia 31°, no creeks flow from the east : th(
growth pine, and the soil barren.
The Calcasiu is the next river to the east of the Sabine
The fonner rises in 31° 30', and flowing nearly south
falls into the Gulf, 40 miles east of the Sabine. A shor
distance from its mouth, the Calcasiu expands into ;
lake, much resembling, but more spacious than the Sa
bine ; both which lakes abound with wild fowl, consist
in* of ducks and geese. These lakes are a more fre
quented retreat for ducks and geese in the winter seasoi
than any part of the western country. The Mermentai
finds the sources of all its branches in Opelousas. Th
Bayou Plaquemine, Blule Cane, Nei-pique, and the Que
que Tortue, are the main branches of the Mermentai
The country, watered by the Mermentau, bears a cor
siderable resemblance to those parts which are drainei
by the Sabine and the Calcasiu ; but timber is more ran
and growth, which indicates a better soil, more abun
dant. The prairas are more elevated and diversifiei
The lower part of the Mermentau, like the two forme
rivers, before it loses itself in the ocean, expands into
broad lake, narrowing, a few miles from its mouth, to th
width of the river.
Vermillion, is the next stream east of the Mermentai
It is a remarkable fact, that the three last mentions
rivers and the Courtableau, head in the same source.—
The country, surrounding the Opelousas church, forms i
tableland, which feeds the extremities of all these rivers
Three miles northwest of Opelousas church, there is, en
vkoned. by praira, a body of woods, two miles long am
LOUISIANA. 319
half a mile wide. Tliis insulated forest is called Isle
% I'Jinglois.
From the east side of this island of woods, flow the
Bad waters of the Mermentau. The source of the river
a spacious, low, wet plain. The waters slowly col-
icting to a channel, pass to the southward within a mile
P Opelousas church ; and after preserving that course
)out three miles, divide ; one part running eastward
ito Bayou Bourbee, contributes to form the Vermillion ;
le other runs southwest into Bayou Plaquemine, Brule,
nd finally into the Mermentau river.
Bayou Grand Louis rises 20 miles northwest from
>pelousas church, in the Grand Praira ; and in its pro-
ress receives the waters from the various prairas which
urround it, and at Carron's landing, becomes a large
reek. A branch, flowing eastward of Opelousas court
ouse, joins Bayou Grand Louis, at Carron's landing,
nd after flowing half a mile, divides ; one part running
the southeast, forms the Teche ; and the other part,
•y the name of Bayou Carron, after a course of two
niles, falls into the Courtableau river. After leaving
Jayou Carron, the Teche flows to the southeast 7 miles,
eceives an outlet of the Courtableau, which leaves the
iver at Bare's. Below the junction, the stream flows
the southward ten miles, and receives from the west.
Bayou Bourbee. The latter stream is formed from the
i^arious drains of the prairas to the southward of Opelou-
sas church. Its extreme northern source is, as has been
sbserved, three miles north of the latter place ; but is,
it the church, only a mere drain ; continues to the south
ibout 8 miles, and is augmented by Chertien's Bayou,
L large creek from Praira Bellevue ; it then turns north-
last, along the Grand Coteaux, about four miles, and
^0 LOUISIANA.
divides ; one part turning east, enters the Teche ; tin
other south, receives Bayou Carrion Crow, three mile:
below, and thence the united streams bear the name o
Vermillion river.
The Vermillion continues to flow southward ten miles
is augmented by the Bayou Queque Tortue, from thi
vicinity of St. Martinsville, and turns to the southwes
16 or 17 miles. In about 30° north latitude, the Vermil
lion again bends to the southeast 10 miles, and then as
sumes a south course of 12 miles, and falls into Vermil
lion Bay.
Below the Fusilier, the Teche forms a great bend t(
the eastward, southward and westward, of 12 miles, ii
a channel almost as uniform as if formed by art. I
then recurves southeastward five miles, and assumes i
south course 15 miles, passes St Martinsville, and flows
to St. Maur's plantation ; where commences the Fausst
point bend. This latter curve is 22 miles in circuit
and yet the river returns within less than a mile and i
half of St. Maur's house. The river then bends to the
southward, and about two miles from this turn, passes
New-Iberia : it being only 9 miles from St. Martinsville
to New-Iberia by land, and more than SO by water.
Below New-Iberia, the Teche flows 20 miles southeast
to SorelPs plantation, where the river turns to the east-
ward, and in a direct distance of 13 miles, to the courl
house of St. Mary's, forms two great bends. Below the
latter, the river flows south of east 25 miles and falls
into the Atchafalaya. The length of the Teche, ii
Bayou Grand Louis is included, is 170 miles.
The Teche presents a singular phenomenon in geo-
graphy, of which a parallel cannot, perhaps, be found on
the globe. It widens and deepens, for more than 100
LOUISIANA. SSI
[liles in length, without any visible source of an increase
f its waters. At the mouth of Bayou Fusilier, the Teche
, at low water, not more than three feet deep, and about
ifty yards from high bank to high bank ; but where it
nters the Atchafalaya it is upwards of two hundred
ards wide, and more than twenty feet in depth.- Ves-
els drawing five feet water, pass to New-Iberia, and the
ide often flows above that place. Notwithstanding there
re more bends than can be found in almost any other
iver of the same magnitude, yet the channel is as regu-
ar as though formed by a skilful engineer. The banks
re elevated generally above the highest floods, and are
videntjy the deposit of alluvial soil. The Teche, whose
anks gradually slope on each side of the river, must
ave derived its channel from a state of things whicii no
onger exists, and the waters which flowed in its present
ourse must have formerly been vastly more abundant
The fertility of the soil covering the borders of this river
inexhaustible ; it is difficult to conceive of any lands
eing of a superior quality.
The Courtableau intersects some of the most valuable
ultivated parts of Opelousas, and is formed by the con-
uent streams of the bayous Crockodile and Bceuf, which,
fter flowing from the pine hills southwest of Alexandria,
a the parish of Rapides, in a nearly parallel course for
bout 70 miles by a direct line, unite eight miles north of
)pelousas church.
Most of the prairas, as before remarked, within the state
f Louisiana, that spread out in various ramifications, are
a a manner connected in one continuous tract. Of those
irairas we shall proceed to give a description, in order»
ccording to their position, beginning with those that lie
©ntiguous to the Sabine.
TS
222 LOUISIANA.
The Sabine Praira spreads over all the epace between
the Sabine river and the Calcasiu. Near the sea shore,
this praira terminates in an extensive marsh ; but from
the shore there is a gradual ascent of surface back into
the country, and on approaching the woods the land is
considerably elevated. The soil, resembling the pine
woods, is mostly sterile. But few settlements have been
made, nor will they probably be multiplied for manj
3'ears. The United States hitherto have ordered no sur-
veys on the Sabine. The settlers on the borders of thai
stream either hold grants under the French or Spanish
governments, or have seated themselves down as unau-
thorised intruders. The French government, althougl
they always extended their claim of territory to the Ri(
Grand del Norte, never granted any lands west of th<
Mermentau ; and grants from the Spanish have nevei
been made of more than two or three tracts. The orde;
of survey, by the United States, was limited south of Ret
river, to the meridian of Natchitoches, which exclude(
the country on the Sabine.
Calcasiu Praira, including the marsh west of Mermen
tau lake, is 70 miles long, averaging a width of 20 mil©
wide, embracing a space of 896,000 acres. Of this trac
nearly 650,000 acres, in point of elevation, would admi
of cultivation ; but the soil is thin and sterile. When
any timber grows, the praira is skirted by pine woods
Black jack oak, mixed with pine, grow along the Nez
pique. On bayou Lacasine, the woods are composed o
pine, oak, hickory and ash, on the high land ; and cypresi
and maple in the swamps. The best soil is on the north
west part of this praira, near the little and upper lake a
Calcasiu ; where the timber is pine, black and red oak
hickory, aeh, and other trees indicating a second rate soil
LOUISIANA. S23
Some spots there are naturally fertile, but the surface is
generally sterile. A few grants were made by the Spa-
nish government, of small tracts on the waters of Calca-
siu ; and some settlements have been made there, with-
out any grant ; but the greater portion remains undispo-
sed of, and unoccupied. The soil, though ordinary, being
too abundant in clay, is superior to that on the waters of
the Sabine.
The eastern border of the Calcasiu praira, on the wa-
ters of the Mermentau river, is considerably settled. —
Some of the largest stocks of cattle in Opelousas range
here. The farmers enrich their fields with the manure
afforded by folding their cattle. The people in this quar-
ter lead a pastoral life. Agriculture is pursued only to
obtain such products as are used in their families.—
Their buildings and mode of living bespeak, to a stran-
ger, the frugal simpli'city of the inhabitants.
A journey from New-Orleans to the mouth of the Sa-
bine, displays distinctly the various conditions of man,
from the palace to the meanest log cabin : all the various
grades of civilized state, from the most polished and en-
lightened society, to that of the rudest stage above the
savage. In the city of New-Orleans, four or five of the
most learned and polite languages of Europe are spoken
in tlieir greatest purity. All the luxury, that wealth and
mechanical ingenuity can bestow, is enjoyed by certain
foreigners, and thoSe who have accumulated riches from
merchandize, and the labor of numerous slaves bestowed
on a wonderfully rich soil, productive of the most valua-
ble crops, sugar and cotton. The various conditions of
man, between luxurious wealth and squalid poverty, a
life of ease and incessant labor, suggest reflections inter-
esting to the moralist and politician. A traveller, after
22^ LOUISIANA.
surveying the superb mansions, the splendid equipage
and luxuriant tables of the wealthy citizens in New-Or-
leans, traversing the country to Opelousas and Attacapas,
will find at the latter places, as a substitute for the show
and luxurious enjoyments of life, a substantial independ-
ence enjoyed by the cultivators of the soil, as far removed
from the annoyance of want, as from excessive gratifica-
tions-7-their habits frugal, but hospitable ; their habita-
tions not showy, rather rough, but strong and conve-
nient; their beds neat and good.; and their food whole-
some and abundant. In the west of Opelousas our traveller
would find a society of men, that ai'e real pastoral hunt-
ers ; who remind us of the early period of history, when
man divided his time between the chace of game in the
forests, and the care of his flocks. But we will return
from this digression to resume our subject.
Praira Menou occupies a space between two branches
of the Mermentau, the Nezpique and Plaquemine Brule.
It is about 40 by 5 miles in extent, and contains 128,000
acres. There is a great variety in the soil and growth
of timber, which consists of every species known in Ope-
lousas, except poplar. Although some parcels are second
rate lands, the prevailing character of the soil is sterile ;
and the time of the inhabitants is chiefly employed in
raising cattle. The settlers are mostly emigrants from
the United States; many of whom are hired stockholders.
Grand Praira, immediately east of praira Menou, is
of nearly the same extent. It embraces lands bordering
on the watersof the Mermentau, Courtableau and Teche.
The soil is of a quality superior to that of the prairas be-
fore described ; in the southwestern part it resembles that
of praira Menou, as does also the timber. The Grand
Praira on its border, is thickly settled by farmers ; few
LOUISIANA. S£5
If whom are exclusively employed in raising cattle. The
opulation consists of French and Americans, (as people
rom the United States are there commonly called) the
brmer the most numerous and wealthy. Most of those
ands that are valuable, were granted to individuals by
he governments of France and Spain. Some of the most
ileasant and healthy situations in Opelousas are included
n this tract. The water is fine. Although there are
nany wet places, the marshes are few, nor do stagnant
vaters exist. The common crops are maize and cotton ;
he latter a staple commodity. Considerable quantities
)f beef, pork, butter, cheese and tallow are produced.
)n the waters of Mermentau are several species of oak,
sh, hickory, dogwood, pine, linden, laurel, magnolia, ma-
»le, wild cherry. The underw^ood, spice wood, Spanish
nulberry, muscadine, grape vine, and other shrubbery^
Opelousas Praira extends from the Gulf of Mexico
nearly north, 80 miles, and is bounded on the east and
aorth by the Vermillion and Teche rivers, and on the
est by the woods of bayou Mellet, bayou Cane, and by
the Mermentau river. This sea of grass, on an average,
is 25 miles wide, and covers 1,200,000 acres. Some of
the most thriving settlements in Opelousas and Attaca-
pas, are in this pi-aira. Tlie marsh, between Vermillion
bay and the lake of Mermentau, is 30 miles square : —
this great expanse is generally covered with grass, and
has some trees. Near the sea shores ridges, rising above
the level of the marsh, consist of dry and solid ground,
covered with live oak trees. These ridges appear to have
been formed by the motion of the sea, and to have been
successively abandoned, as others. were formed by the
surf: tiiey lie parallel to the shore, and are separated by
lagoons, ponds or marslies : they afford undisturbed re-
S36 LOUISIANA.
treats for wild animals, such as deer, turkeys and gi'ouse.
The live oak tree appears to designate climate, and
proves that the temperature of the atmosphere lowers in
Louisiana bj advancing westward. On the Mobile, live
oak is found nearly as far north as 31°. Between Mo-
bile and Mississippi it disappears above 30° 30', whilst
on the latter stream it falls ten miles further south. On;
Atchafalaya, above Crow island, it is found as high as
30° £0'. That the existence of live oak depends on
local position, is shown by the circumstance of its grow-\
ing further north, both east and west, than on the Mis-
sissippi ;— the current of air descending that river, redu^
ces to a lower temperature the region of air contiguous
to its banks.
Bellevue Praira exceeds thirty miles in length, from
north to south, and is about six miles from east to west.
This name is significantly expressive of the place. The
most charming, productive, and best cultivated parts of
Opelousas and Attacapas are to be found in this praira.
On the eastern border of which, upon an elevated spot,
stands the church of St. Landre ; and the town and seat
of justice for the parish is located in a projection of the
praira. " Opelousas contained upwards of 5,000 inhabit
tants in 1810, of which more than one half resided in thQ
Bellevue.
The eastern border of Bellevue is variegated ; much
of the surface rolling ; the land extremely fertile ; the
middle parts fertile ; some parts elevated ; mostly flat
and wet, but not marshy. The western parts, upon
bayou Queque Tortue, bayou Plaquemine Brule and bayou
Mellet, vary with the general eflfect of these several
water courses ; upon Queque Tortue the soil is sterile —
upon Plaquemine Brule and Mellet, of second quality —
LOUISIANA. 2^
the northern part, upon bayou Grand Louis partaking of
tlie beauty and fertility of the land of Teche. The afore-
mentioned names designate bays, which are ramifications
from the main praira, in the direction of the several
streams, from which their distinctive appellations have
been taken. In the three latter prairas the land is gen-
erally flat and wet, affording good pasturage — some parts
high enough for tillage. In this, as in most of the prai-
ras of Opelousas and Attacapas, though the soil be thin,
it retains manure with great tenacity, there being but a
small portion of sand in its composition. Bellevue pra-
ira is skirted with an excellent growth of timber, inclu-
ding various kinds of oak.
Jittacapas Praira occupies the space between the
woods of Vermillion and Teche, being about 40 miles in
length, but of unequal breadth, lying in the form of a tri-
angle ; the base of which rests upon Teche river, the per-
pendicular extending nearly to New-Iberia. Many ran-
ges of woods chequer this praira. The elevated lands
in this praira are extremely fertile, and all the vegetable
productions known in Louisiana will grow in the various
parts of it ; and probably many not yet introduced, such
as the olive, would flourish, if cultivated. The most ex-
tensive and wealthy settlements in Louisiana, west of
the Atchafalaya, are upon the right bank of the Teche ;
there being a compact settlement extended on the banks
of that stream, as it runs, a distance of 140 miles. At-
tacapas, at present, contains more than 10,000 inhabi-
tants, one half of whom reside on the right bank of the
Teche, including the towns of St. Martinsville a;nd New-
Iberia.
The soil and surface between the Vermillion and
Te(ihe display much variety : several hills of a similar
228 LOUISIANA.
construction, rising to the height of 100 feet, covered
with timber, different in species from that growing on
the surrounding marshes. On a little stream called
Petite Anse, near these hills, are to be found more than
40 different species of trees, including the live oak, wal-
nut, white and black hickory, and sweet gum. A slug-
gish bayou issues from an impassable marsh environing
the hills. The bayou is made to communicate with the
Petite Anse, which discharges into Vermillion Bay, by a
canal cut through the solid praira, a causeway b6ing
thrown up from the bayou to the high land. The island
thus formed by a communication between the streams,
contains about 3000 acres of excellent land.
Upon the Petite Anse a salt spring has been formed,
from which considerable quantities of salt have been
manufactured. From its proximity at first, the spi-ing
M^as considered a mere drain of the sea, but by further
examination it was ascertained, that the saltness of the
water was derived from other sources. For several
years past, the adjacent settlements have been supplied
with salt from this spring.
Praira Grand Cherndl borders on the banks of the
Teche,from eight miles southeast of Opelousas church to
about southeast of New-Iberia ; and is in length 52 miles,
with a medium width of two. Near the bank of the
Teche, the praira, uniformly consists of a high, fertile
soil. In approaching the opposite woods, although the
surface slopes considerably, much of the land is suflficient-
ly high for cultivation. Indeed, tlie greater part of this
praira will admit of cultivation. The settlements bor-
dering these woods, are numerous, among which are
many extensive farms. Cotton and maize, which are the
prevailing crops, grow luxuriantly.
LOUISIANA.
The local position of this praira is highly advantage-
ous. Its proximity to an abundance of excellent timber
of various species, and the convenience of navigable
waterg, greatly increase the value of these lands. Be-
side the mouth of the Teche, there are five outlets into
Atchafalaya river.
Praira Laurent, inclosed between the Teche, Bayou
Bourbee and Bayou Fusilier, is about 7 miles long and
3 wide. The high parts of this praira are covered by an
excellent soil. It enibraces several fine farms, wliich
produce cotton and maize in abundance.
Petite Bois and Romaine lie above Priara Laurent
and Praira Chevreul, along the Teche.
On the Courtableau are Prairas Bare,Mabama, Wick-
off's, Carron's Le JWe^fe's, and one or two more. None
3f these, except Wickoif's, exceed two miles in length ;
most of them about one ; but all are extremely fertile.
Wickoff's praira is the termination, to the northeast of
Opelousas, of the natural meadows. Beyond this praira,
which is four miles long, and one and a half wide, com-
mences a heavy forest, which continues to the Atchafa-
laya : an impervious cane brake spreads* over many parts
of it.
It may be generally observed, that the high, arable
plains of Attacapas and Opelousas, are bounded south by
an impassable morass ; to the west by continuous prairas ;
to the northwest by open, dry pine woods ; and to the
northeast, by an annually inundated expanse, intersected
by bayous, chequered by lakes, or covered by a forest,
and almost impenetrable with cane and palmetto brakes.
Between the settlements of Opelousas, and those of
Avoyelles, about 15 miles in a direct line, from each,
are the hills and praira of Bayou Rouge. At a good dis-
u.
^30 LOUISIANA.
tance from Opelousas, the timber, soil and surface re-
semble the woodland in many places, within four or five
miles of the church of the latter ; whilst an annually
inundated swamp, totally difterent from either, inter-
venes.
Bayou Rouge hill rises abruptly from low lands, 40
feet above the surrounding level, which is covered with
cypress, swamp, white oak and other trees, similar to
those growing on inundated lands. The hill is about
three miles in diameter, being nearly round and about
two-thirds of the surface praira. From the northeast of
this hill, issues a spring of pure water. Upon the em-
minence above the spring, a traveller may be seated, at
the root of a black oak, surrounded by dogwood, mulber-
ry and other trees, scarcely ever found on the borders of
land subject to inundation by the Mississippi ; and re-
wiain within 100 yards of lands flooded by water, four
or five feet deep, every spring. The trees and shrubs
of this humbly elevated hill, are as distinct from those on
the swamp surrounding the hill, as if they grew in diifer-
ent climates. On this hill resides a small tribe of To-
iiica Indians ; v^Tio have adopted many of the manners
and customs of the Freech, as also their manners of cul*
tivating the soil. Their nation, in 1731, experienced a
melancholy fate ; being chiefly destroyed, at Tonica
village, on the Mississippi, below Red river, by the tribe
of Natchez ; who, two years before, massacred tlie
French settlers, at the now town of Natchez. Almost
the whole tribe of the latter were, in their turn, destroy-
ed by the French. The Tonicas were always in friend-
ly alliance with the French. The small remnant of To-
nicas who survived, under the protection of the French,
removed to Baton Rouge hill, jvhere their desceadants.
LOUISIANA. S3i
to the number of40 or 50 persons, still reside ; and like
the French, they cultivate cotton and maize. Their
residence being surrounded by flood waters several
months in the year, forms a retreat, almost as secluded as
a desert island in the unfrequented parts of the ocean.
From near the hill flows a stream, called Bayou Rouge,
as also, one further south, called Bayou Petite Praira,
nearly parallel ; both of which enter Atchafalaya, ten
miles apart. Upon each of these bayous, particularly
the latter, are considerable tracts of excellent land : but
the obstruction to navigation caused by the raft in Atcha-
falaya, it is supposed will retard improvements for a
long period. The region between Opelousas and Bayou
Rouge, is thickly covered with trees of an extraordinary
size. In this prodigious heavy timbered forest, is an im-
mense quantity offine white oak, and cypress.
J\*atural features, productions, settlements and towns
in Opelousas and Mtacapas. — The names of Attacapas
and Opelousas, were derived from two tribes of Indians,
who formerly inhabited those regions : the former resid-
ed near the head of Teche. The country was discovered
and settled by the French, about the year 1750. In the
early settlement, of the country, the whole tract was
called Attacapas. It was after formed by the French
into two separate commandaries ; one retaining the name
of Attacapas, and the other receiving that of Opelousas.
The dividing boundary between the two districts, is the
Mermentau, from its mouth by the eastern branch, called
Queque Tortue, in the. direction of that stream, to the
Atchafalaya. As the natural position of the two afore-
mentioned districts is nearly the same, it will be proper
to describe them geographically, as one entire tract.
S33 LOUISIANA.
The contrast, to the ej-e of a traveller, between the
dark anrl silent gloom in the thick, heavy timbered, in-
undated lands of Atchafalaya, and the open, light, and
cheerful expansion of the wide spread prairas of Opeloii-
sas and Attacapas, produce surprising and agreeable
emotions. In a route by the mouth of the Teche, into
Attacapas, after landing at Renthrop's ferry, the most
interesting object which will arrest the attention of tlie
spectator, is the rich borders of the Teche, lined with
live oak, black oak, sweet gum and laurel magnolia ; the
arable margin narrow and extending down the AtchaHt-
laya five or six miles below the mouth of the Teche. Up
the latter, as far as Sorrel's, the same physiognomy is
is displayed : narrow prairas extending along the river,
with a margin covered by wood. At Sorrel's, the praira
immediately expands, and opens on the traveller a broad
expanse of grass covered surface, denuded of wood, that
stretches to Rio Grand del Norte.
At the lower extremity of Fausse point, in a short,
deep bend of the Teche, on the west bank, stands New-
Iberia, a port of entry, at the head of schooner naviga-
tion. It is an elegant site, commanding a charming,
diversified pi'ospect. The adjacent country is one of the
most fertile, populous, and best cultivated tracts in At-
tacapas. This village occupies the extremity of an em-
minence scarcely perceptible, projecting southwestward-
lyfrom the banks of the Teche, and- forming the ground
which embraces the settlement of Cote Gcle, between
New-Iberia and Vermillion river. This prominence is
moderately elevated above the banks of the Teche ; but
the soil is essentially different. The Vermillion inter-
sects this swell of laud, on which is the principal penult
settlement, west of tliat streaua ; thence turning north-
LOUISIANA. 233 l'
ward, this eminence stretches out through Opelousas,
and gradually acquiring elevation, shoots up, near Red
river, into hills of considerable height. Schistous sand
stone is displayed in the base of these hills, on the head
waters of bayous Bceuf and Crockodile. Rarely has any %
considerable quantity of stone, on, or under the surface,
been discovered in Attacapas, or the lower parts of
Opelousas.
The ground occupied by New-Iberia, although twenty
feet above the highest waters, is alluvial. The site of
the town separates two bodies of land, which though
formed from the same sources, have been deposited at
periods of time widely distant. The hills, being more
rolling than the banks of the Teche, are preferable for
agriculture. The district between New-Iberia and Ope-
lousas church, embracing the ridge of hills, is among the
most pleasant, populous, and best cultivated parts of the
country.
The price of land, here may be considered from five
to fifty dollars per acre ; according to situation, qualify
of soil, and degree of improvements. The price is, how-
ever, less than on the Teche ; generally more so than in
proportion to the intrinsic value.
The high lands seldom extend to the margin of the
V^ermillion, which flows through low, inundated bottoms ;
)n the other hand, the highest lands, adjacent to the
Teche, are on its banks ; where marshes never occur, and
ire but seldom found near it.
The borders of the Vermillion are very low, but nearly
is rich as those of the Teche.
St. Martinsmtle, the seat of justice for the parish of
H. Martins, is the next largest town to Natchitoches,
vest of Atchafalaya river, in Louisiana, It stands on
u3
^34 LOUISIANA.
the west bank of the Teche, SO" 10' N. lat. nine miles bj
land, and thirty-two by water, above New-Iberia. Al-
though this town is favorably situated for commerce, in
a productive, well cultivated country, its surface is too
flat, and its streets, in rainy seasons, exceeding muddy.
The church of Attacapas being placed here, gave rise to
the town. Under the Spanish government, the towns
where theii* churches have been erected, uniformly become
places for transacting public business.
Above St. Martinsville, there are no more tovwis in
Attacapas. Upon both banks of the Teche, upon the
Vermillion, and intermediate streams, the country is well
settled. The soil is productive of large crops of cotton,
which is the chief object of cultivation.
The value of lands, is generally among the first enqui-
ries of a traveller ; to which no definite answer can be
^iven : the price varying, according to the relative situa-
tion, the quality of the soil, the crops of which it is pro-
ductve, the improvements made, the surrounding settle-
ments, and various other considerations. Lands where
sugar can be produced, next to them cotton, will, other
circumstances being equal, always command the greatest
prices.
In all parts of the United States, the cotton plant is
secure from vernal and autumnal frosts, below 55° N. lat.
where, if the soil be congenial, a proprietor of land may
surely calculate on good crops of cotton, by bestoM'ing a
proper degree of cultivation. Further north, the crops,
though they may grow luxuriantly, are precarious, from
the effects of frost. In like manner 30° north may be
considered the northern boundary for the growth of su-
gar cane. But as climate is not uniformly regulated by
degrees of latitude, there are considerable exceptions t©
LOUISIANA. 235
this position ; there being a great variety of causes, which
do not exist in all places, that combine to moderate the
temperature of the air. The region around Mobile bay
is a remarkable instance of this kind.
Sugar cane flourishes well in the lower region mean-
dered by the river Teche. Beside cotton, jjvhich is the
prevailing crop in the greater parts of Attacapas and
Opelousas, the raising of cattle and horses is the main
employinent of the people, living in those parts where
the s^irface is flat, and the soil wet and thin ; there are
situations where the cotton plant will not thrive. Much
of the region bordering on the Mermentau, Calcasiu and
Sabine rivers, is of this description. There are prodigious
stocks of cattle reared, with great profit to the proprie-
tors, who furnish the New-Orleans market with beef, but-
ter and cheese. Tae climate is so moderate, the cattle
subsist, winter and summer, entirely on the extensive
ranges which the spacious prairas constitute, abounding
in wild praira grass, and sometimes in cane brakes. —
The horses of the country are the descendants of the
Andalusian and Numidian race. Like their ancestors,
they are small, compactly and vigorously built, and cal-
culated to endure labor and fatigue almost beyond con-
ception. The cattle are as distinguishable from those of
the northern states, as if they were a distinct species :
they are sleek as moles, nimble and high mettled, and
elegantly formed ; their flesh is well flavored and good,
but their lacteal depositories are so small, that they afford
but little milk.
It is rare in this country that cattle are either fed,
salted or sheltered. The want of sheds and food in
winter have occasionally, in cold storms, proved destruc-
tive to the stocks ; one-fourth of which, after the severe
S36 LOUISIANA.
snow storm of January, 1812, perished. It would seem,
from the liability to these casualties, that stock proprie-
tors ought to provide shelter and forage for the emergen-
cies~ of extraordinary seasons^
In Opelousas, most of the planters raise some sheep—
the mutton is excellent, but the wool is coarse. It re-
mains yet a doubt how far, in this climate, the fleece
could be ameliorated by crossing the old, or producing
new breeds. It is supposed that the large tracts of pine
lands, which are of too dry and sterile a soil for cultivai-
tion, would afford fine pasturage for sheep.
It has been observed, that climates do not precisely
conform to the parallels of latitude. A line drawn fvM
the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers, in Ala-
bama, about 32° 30' north lat. to the mouth of the Sabine,
nearly in latitude 29° 30' excepting the borders of tlie
Mississsippi, it has been thought, would cross the inter-
mediate legion where prevailed nearly the same tempera-
ture of atmosphere,and consequently the same climates.
The exception to the borders of the Mississippi, from SO
to 40 miles in width, both sides inclusive, is formed from
the expansion of cool air, which froni the more northern
regions rushes, without obstruction, down the rivei'.- —
Between the extremities of this oblique imaginary line,
supposed to designate the identity of climate, we perceive
a difference of three degrees of latitude. This curious
phenomenon may be traced to the encroachment of the
ocean, south of the Mobile coast, on the land, a degree
further north, than to the westward of the Mississippi;
to the shelter on the north, afforded by the ridge of hills
dividing the waters of the Mobile ; to a continuous, thick
forest of evergreens, stretching eastwardly and west-
wardly north of the Mobile, and perhaps also to the san-
LOUISIANA. §37
(liness of the soil in which the evergreens flourish, tiiat
naturally increase heat, from the reflections of the sun's
rays.
North latitude 33° is found, in North America, a line
of deraarkation, forming an important distinguishable
boundary between different climates, where the vegetable
kingdom is clothed with dissimilar habiliments. This
distinguishable line, which seems so mucli to separate
various classes of trees and plants, in Europe is found
at 45°, being eight degrees further north. The reason
of this diiference between the eastern and western conti-
nents, seems to remain among the arcana of nature, yet
not satisfactorily accounted for,. on the principles of na-
tural philosophy.
A proficient in the science of botany, would find among
the trees and plants in the eastern section of (^elousas,
for the object of curious speculation, as great a variety,
and as thrifty and exuberant a growth, as, perhaps, could
je furnished by any portion of the globe, of equal extent.
We subjoin a list of the vast variety of 'forest trees,
growing in the Attacapa's and Opelousas region — viz.
Red flowering maple, box elder, sorrel tree, pawpaw, iron
wood, black birch, catalpa, horn beam, chincopih, Avild
cherry, hackberry, laurier almond, dogwood, swamp dog-
wood, cypress, persimmon, beech, ash, honey locust, holly,
butternut hickory, water hickory, thick shell bark hickory,
nutmeg hickory, pignut hickory, black walnut, sassafras,
spice wood, red bay, sweet gum, poplar, white bay, large
laurel, mulberry, tupeloo, black gum, buckeye, pitch pine,
cotton wood, sycamore, white oak, water oak, Spanish
oak, black jack oak, swamp maple oak, over cup oak,
post oak, willow oak, red oak, black oak, downy linden,
mucilaginous elm, red elm, swamp elm.
238 LOUISIANA.
Of all the species included in the foregoing list of
trees, those of the most extraordinary size may, perhaps,
be found between praira Bellevue and the hill of Eaton
Rouge.
In addition to the larger growth, is an indefinite vari-
ety of vines, uiider wood and shrubbery — such as Spanish
naulberry, prickly sumach, muscadine, grape vine, white
wood, pond wood, white thorn, blackberry, dewberry,
several species of the smilax, and many others. On the
banks of the streams, extensive brakes of great cane, and
on the outer margin of the cane, the palmetto, or latania,
fill the slope between the cane and the inundated lands.
These vegetables are indubitable evidence of a strong,
rich soil.
J\rorthwest section of the state of L-imisiana, including
the parishes of JVatchitoches, Ocatahoola, Concordia,
Bapide and dvoyelles. — This section of country is boun-
ded north by latitude 33° ; west by a meridian line from
33° to 32° ; southwest by the Sabine river ; south by the
parallel of 31° and on Opelousas.
Face of the country. Rivers, Lakes, Soil, Timber growth,
Vegetable and Mineral productions.
The Sabine drains its head waters about lat. 32° 30'
fiov/ing southeast to the southwest angle of the parish of
Natchitoches ; thence to Sabine lake, near the Gulf, itaj
course is south west wardly. Between Natchitoches, on
Red river, and the Sabine, the surface is broken into hills J
the timber chiefly pine, black oak, sweet gum, and various
species of hickory. On the route from the Sabine, near
Natchitoches, pine is the prevailing growth. Above the
Spanish lake, on the borders of lands inundated by Red
river, the pine growth in a manner ceases, and is suc-
ceeded by oak and hickory ; the country broken, in some
LOUISIANA. 239
places stony ; the hills not high, but «teep ; the bottoms
often fertile, but of moderate extent. The lakes of Red
river are fed by many streams of pure water, among
which is Bayou Pierre, which flows from the adjacent
hills. None of these streams are 25 miles in length.
The most abundant growth is black hickory. Extensive
flats, however, occur, of post oak, always growing on a
poor, wet soil. Between the vSabinc and Red rivers, the
ridge dividing the waters that flow into either, is nearly
equidistant. West of the settlements of Bayou Pierre,
eight miles, pine prevails, interspersed with black jack
ridges : surface broken, soil poor ; on the hills, sandy and
rocky.
Here is sufficient bottom land, rich and arable, to ad-
mit of extensive settlements. The timber is large and
valuable. The eastern side of the Sabine, from its head
:o the Gulf, is low, and more subject to inundation than
>n the west bank. Upon the Sabine the growth is pine,
)lack oak, red oak, white oak, black hickoiy, sweet gum,
)lack gum, ash, beech and dogwood. Cane abounds on
;he margin of the river, but is rather of stinted growth.
Towards Opelousas pine increases, and below 32° to the
)rairas of Mermentau and Calcasiu, excepting the mar-
fins of streams, it is one continuous pine forest.
Within about 30 miles, on a direct line, after Red river
•nters the State, it spreads into a number of channels and
akes, forming an inundated swamp six miles wide and
ifty long. The river is never after united in a compact
;olumn, till it mingles with the Mississippi.
Above Natchitoches, the soil and surface, east of Red
•iver, is far preferable to that of the west. The creek
>ottoms are wider and richer than those towards the Sa-
line. The hills higher, and more gradual in the ascent.
240 LOUISIANA.
At low water, the more prominent parts are presented
in the form of various islands ; at high, the appearance
of a spacious lake is exhibited. The expanse of over-
flowed waters on Red river is evidently of recent origin.
In Nachitoches, Spanish, Black, Bastinean and Bodau
lakes, ruins of the cypress tree remain. The wood of
tliis tree is almost imperishable : the stumps immerged
in these lakes, prove it had its growth there before the
lakes were formed, where the water in the dryest seasons
is now from 10 to 15 feet deep. The valley through
which Red river flows, must have been filled up by
the alluvion deposited above the bottom of the creeks
entering that river; by which means the lakes have
been formed on those tributaries, near the main river.
In the peninsula, formed by Red and Wasliita rivers,
several small streams take their rise, some of which
flow into the one, and some into the other of those rivers.
Of those which mingle with Red river, the Bodca«,
Dacheet, Black L^ke, the Sabine, and Hietan rivers are
the principal ; those flowing to the Washita, are Der-
bane,, and the united streams of Dogdomoni and Little
river. Upon all these streams the soil and timber growth
are nearly similar.
The resemblance of the' surface of the earth, through-
out the state of Louisiana, to the segment of a circle,
is proved by the extent of stagnant waters, oaeach of the
foregoing rivers, caused by the rise of the Mississippi j
at low water, severally flowing with considerable veloci-
ty ; at high, when the Mississippi and Red rivers are
swollen by floods, the other streams are stagnant almost
to their sources. The country, though hilly, appears
not to consist of a gradual rise from the ocean, but to
swell from a plain.
LOmSTANA. Mi
There are various indications of iron ore. The base
of the hills consist of sand stone and slate. Water worn
pebbles compose the upper strata in some parts. Salt
springs abound on all the tributaries, between Washita
and Red rivers, from two or three of which considerable
quantities of salt are made. At Postlethwait's, a quantity
adequate to any demand, which the country might re-
quire, could be made. The inhabitants are now sup-
plied with excellent salt at the praira, at from one to two
dollars per barrel. Upon the Washita and Dogdomoni,
are excellent springs.
The best lands, bordering on the south side of Red
river, within the state, have been disposed of ; on the
north, the most valuable still remain unappropriated.—
Of the latter tract, is an extensive body of a superior
quality, on the creeks, which flow into Dacheet river
and lake Bistineau ; also upon the waters of the Der-
bane. Black lake. Little and Sabine rivers, west ; and
upon the Tensaw, Macon, Bceuf, and some smaller
streams, east of Washita.
The east of lake Bistineau, upon the creeks which en-
ter that lake, and upon the margin of the lake are of dif-
ferent characters. The bottoms are occasionally spa-
cious, and of a good soil. This is the only situation
within the state, where the bottom lands, properly so
:alled, are arable. The banks of the Mississppi, and of
most of the streams entering it from the west, and some
m the east, generally incline from the stream, exhibit-
ing an aspect different from those on the Ohio, and on
the Atlantic rivers : the banks of the latter inclining
towards the streams by which they are intersected* The
side of the hills east of lake Bistineau, consist of lands
Rfhich^ may be considered of a second rate soil ; the
w
S4^ LOUISIANA.
growth, pine, black oak, red oak, ash, black hickory and
dogwootl. It is supposed this soil would be congenial to
wheat and other small grains : as also to fruit trees and
grape vines. It abounds with fine springs of water. It
remains yet an entire wilderness.
Of a similar character to the lands east of lake Bisti-
neau, though of less extent, is that of the peninsula be-
tween the Red and Washita rivers.
This peninsula, below 33° north latitude, is intersect-
ed by a chain of high hills, which puts out in several
projections ; of which, one of the most prominent, enters
the state of Louisiana, and after proceeding about 15
miles, within the state, ramifies into three branches ; the
western, rather west of south, separates the waters that
flow into Dacheet river and lake Bistineau, from those
which enter Black lake river ; and finally merges in the
level lands of Red river. The middle branch bears
south, dividing the head branches of streams that flow to
Black lake river westward, and into Sabine river east-
ward ; and disappears in the low lands, near the junc-
tion of these two streams. The eastern ridge, diverging
southeast eight or ten miles, is parted into two : the south-
western of these separates the waters of the Washita
from those of Red river ; bearing southwest 20 miles j
then inclines to the south, continuing, and conforming
nearly to the general course of the Red river, tei minates
upon the left shore of that river, at the Ecore Chene,
about 15 miles southeast of the town of Alexandria. The
t>qrtheastern branch, bearing southeast, between the
waters of Derbane and those of Dogdomoni and Little
rivers, reaches within two miles of the Washita, at 32° 18'
north latitude ; then follows that river, preserving a
distance of two qx three miles from its margin, and finally
LOUISIANA. S48
sinks into the levVel alluvion, at the court house of Octa-
hoola, at 31° 42' north latitude.
The river Washita has a clear, beautiful, gentle cur-
rent, much resembling, but smaller than the Ohio. The
head sources of the Washita make their appearance in
about 34° north latitude and 18° SO' west longitude. —
The courses of the upper streams of the Washita, are
southeast 60 or 70 miles ; thence east 100 miles, where
three branches unite ; and continuing east £0 miles. Hot
Spring creek falls in from the northeast. Mr. Dunbar
and Dr. Hunter, having minutely explored this part of
the Washita country, ascertained the geological struc-
ture near the Hot Springs, to be composed of secondary
materials, schistous sand stone. The Masserne moun-
tains, which give rise to the Washita, are found to not
be of great elevation ; but having been imperfectly ex-
plored, their composition is not well ascertained.
The country drained by the head waters of the Wash-
ita, is sterile praira, or broken, rocky, mountainous land.
The country adjacent to the Hot Springs, which are on
the south side of the mountain, is barren. The country
around these springs, being elevated and possessing a
pure air, is considered very healthy. Persons afflicted
with pulmonary complaints, obtain great relief by resort-
ing to these springs. Whether the change of air, or the
medicinal quality of the water, most contributes to re-
store health, is not certain.
Below the mouth of Hot Spring, Washita flows south,
25 miles, and receives the tribute of Fourcheau Cado,
which flows from the west ; and about the same distance
further south, the Little Missouri. These two rivers
issue from the spurs of the Masserne, and flowing nearly
east, meander through considerable tracts of valuable
S44 LOUISIANA.
lands. Some praira of moderate extent, and of a poor,
thin soil, occur.
The Saline branch of the Washita rises 12 miles
southeast of the Hot Springs ; and flowing 150 miles,
joins the Washita a little north of Louisiana. Lands on
the Saline, have a thin, poor soil.
I'he Barthelemy finds its source 50 miles southeast
of the head waters of the Saline ; pursuing a course
nearly parallel to which it joins the Washita at 32* 40'
north latitude. The Barthelemy winds its course
through an excellent tract of land, particularly near
its mouth. Before reaching the Washita, the Barthele-
my is joined by an ancient outlet, the Bayou Siard, of
the former stream. This outlet, after flowing in its
course, about 25 miles, joins the Washita, three miles
above Fort Miro.
Grant made by the Spanish Government to Baron
Bastrop. — This tract lies northeast from Bayou Siard,
and derives importance from its great extent, consisting
of twelve leagues square. The soil is of various qualities.
Besides Washita and Bayou Siard, which forms the
western boundary, it is traversed by Barthelemy, Bon
Idee, and Macon rivers. There are three prairas from
three to four miles long, and two broad : Praira de
Bute, on the right bank of Barthelemy ; Jefferson and
Mer Rouge, between the Bfeuf and Barthelemy river.
Notwithstanding Bastrop's grant, taken in the aggregate,
cannot be esteemed a fertile body of land, yet the prairas,
and the margins of the streams, are generally covered
with an excellent soil. Considerable settlements have
been made. The seat of justice for the parish of Wash-
ita is established in Praira Mer Rouge. Many settle-
ments may be found, on the banks of the Barthelemy, as
LOUISIANA. S45
also in Praira Jefferson. Although farms are scattered
over most parts of the grant, large portions of good land
remain vacant. Pine forests generally, on the surface
flat, sometimes marshy, intervene between the streams.
Cotton and tobacco, mainly the former, with which
the soil and climate are congenial, are the staple pro-
ductions : maize, the small grains, and most garden
vegetables flourish. The fig and peach tree, which hei'e
produce fine flavored fruit, have been successfully cul-
tivated. Vine fruits, such as melons, pumpkins, cucum-
bers and squashes, are found to be productive in this
soil.
The following is a list of the most valuable forest trees
growing, not only on Bastrop's Grant, but in the adjacent
region, viz : hackberr}^ wild cherry, cypress, persim-
mon, beech, ash, honey locust, bitternut hickory, thick
shell bark hickory, black walnut, sassafras, large laurel
tupiloo, black gum, pitch pine, cotton wood, sycamore,
white oak, black oak, linden, locust, mucilaginous elm,
and red elm.
Tlie Grant to the Marquis Maison Rouge, commences
about five miles below Fort Miro, in latitude about 32°
SO', extending down the Washita, 40 miles on both sides
of the stream, nearly conforming to the course as it runs.
Most of the lands in this grant remain imoccupied.
The soil, in no portion of Louisiana, exceeds in quality
:his part of the banks of the Washita. The cotton plant
»rows here luxuriantly, which is the prevailing staple
jroduction. Both the surface and the soil are greatly
iiversified. The lands east of the Wasliita, bear a strong
■esemblance to the alluvial soils in Louisiana ; an arable
>order of nearly one half mile wide, generally skirting
he stream ', to this succeeds the ayerflowed surface,
w2
1846 LOtJiSlANA*
which spreads out towards the Bon Idee river. Th*
margin of the west side of Washita, is also alluvial, but
more limited. A range of hillsj connected with one be-
fore mentioned, parting the waters of Red from Washita
river, winds along the west side of the latter stream.
This ridge reaches Maison Rouge's grant, nearly ten
miles below its highest extremity, and conforming to the
general course of the river, extends by the Washita
through the grant. The front of the ridge, facing the
river, is bold and abrupt, gently descending westward.- *
The timber differs not essentially, from that on the
grant of Bastrop: on both, it is good and abundant,
Few situations can furnish more pleasant and conveni-
ent establishments, than could be formed in many places
on the Washita. The alluvial banks, and the elevated
spots in the rear, afford a great diversity for selection:
The Washita is navigable for large boats at all times oi
tlie year, except the season be very dry.
Sugar excepted, all the vegetable productions which
can be raised in any part of Louisiana, will flourish on
the Washita.
All our remarks on the lands of the Washita, will
equally apply to the regions watered by the Bceuf, Ma-
con and Ten saw.
Numerous saw mills are in operation, on Little river,
which prepare large quantities of lumber for New-Or-
leans market.
Topography. — The northwest section of the state oi
Louisiana contains the following parishes, viz. JVftfcAi-
ioches, Rapides, Ocatahoola, Concordia and Avoi^lles*
JVatchitoches occupies the northwest angle of the states
embracing land watered by Red, Sabine and Calcasiu
rivers i with Texas on the west, Sabine southwest, and
LOUISIANA. ^7
Opelousas south. The town is situated on the west bank
of Red river, SI" 46' north latitude, 407 miles from New-
Orleans by water. Here was established a militarj
post in 1717. The buildings first erected, were about a
mile from the present village. The remains of the old
fort and garden are still visible. This place derives an
importance from its position ; it being a most central
and convenient point for trade with the province of
Texas. Fort Claiborne, which is garrisoned with sol-
diers, is built on one of the pine hills, which approaches
within 200 yards of the river. The waters of Red river
are brackish ; but copious springs of good water are
found near Natchitoches. This is the most considerable
town in Louisiana, west of the Mississippi : the present
number of inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison, exceed-
ing 600.
The parish of Rapides lies principally in the valley of
Red river, and extends to the river Washita. In soil
and productions, it is much like the parish of Natchito-
ches.
Alexandria stands on the west bank of Red river, half
a mile below the rapids ; at low water, the head of barge
navigation. 31° 19' north latitude. 344 miles by water
from New-Orleans. It is a flourishing village. The set-
tlements around the town are wealthy, and considerably
extensive. By some it has been supposed, that Rapide
contained more valuable land, for the extent, than any
parish in the state.
The parishes of Octahoola and Washita lie upon the
river Washita j neither of which contains any consider-
able town.
Concordia stretches out extensively on the west bank
of ^he Mississippii ocfupyisg an inclined! plane : all Us
248 LOUISIANA.
soil is alluvial, and of an excellent quality ; but much of
it inundated : cotton, which grows luxuriantly, the only
staple. The town of Concordia, opposite Natchez, is the
seat of justice, but of little commercial importance.
Avoyelles lies in an irregular circuitous bend of Red
river, at the mouth. The settlements are mostly in the
praira, which is high, and by flood waters is occasionally
surrounded. All the arable lands are excellent, a large
portion of which remain public propei'ty. Cotton and
maize are the chief objects of culture. There is no towtf '
in the parish. The most convenient seasons of approach-
ing this part of the country are the months of September,
October and November.
TEXAS.
Our speculations on the western country were in^
ended to be confined to the regions west of the Allega-
ies, within the jurisdiction of the United States. But
lie proximity, and great extent of the province of Texas,
n the western borders of the American republic ; the
eculiar circumstances attending the discovery and set-
lement of that province ; the contested claims for juris-
iction, between the French and Spaniards ; and the in-
efinite limits of Louisiana, at the time of its cession to
\e United States, seem to render a general view of that
rovince not incompatible with the scope of our design.
Texas is bounded west and southwest by the Rio
irand del Norte ; southeast by the Gulf of Mexico ; east
y the state of Louisiana ; northeast and north (accord-
ig to the late Spanish treaty) by Red river to 100** west
angitude from London ; thence due north to the Arkan-
aw J thence up the Arkansaw to latitude 42° ; thence
ue west to a point intersected by a right line drawn
'om the source of the Rio Grand del Norte — ^presenting
lie form of an irregular triangle, whose acute angle is
smied by a line from the sources of the Rio Grand del
forte, protracted, in the course of that stream, to the pa-
allel of 42° north latitude, running west. The greatest
sngth of this province exceeds 800 miles, and its great-
250 TEXAS.
est breadth 500. It embraces a surface of 400,000 squan
miles ; an extent more spacious than the aggregate con
tents t)f the states of New- York, New-Jersey, Pennsylva
nia, Maryland, Virginia, Kentucky and Ohio.
After the French had taken possession of the regioi
bordering on the Mississippi, by right of discovery, L
Salle, a Frenchman from Canada, in 1683, landed at th
mouth of Guadaloupe, a small river which flows from th
interior of Texas into the Gulf of Mexico, and explore
the country on that stream. Not till 31 years after, i
1714, did the Spaniards cross the del Norte, from th
west into Texas. They made no settlement there unt
1717, when they occupied the Adayes. About the sam
time, the French made an establishment at Natchitochei
only nine miles distant. These two posts were held b
the respective governments — the French always claimin
all the country east of the Rio del Norte, as a part (
Louisiana, by right of the first discovery, until the rat
fication of the treaty of 1762, when France ceded Lou
siana to Spain.
The soil of Texas is generally, in fertility, much infi
rior to that wliich is spread over the region watered H
the streams of the Mississippi and Red river. A laro
portion of the former consists of open plains devoid <
woods ; opening a passage for the winds from the nortl
whereby the same parallels of latitude are rendere
cooler than further to the east. The climate is, howeve
generally temperate, and favorable to the health of tli
human constitution.
Considered in the whole, as one region, it cannot pr(
perly be said of Texas, that the soil is fertile. It coi
tains, notwithstanding, many extensive tracts of exec
lent land.
TEXAS. ^51
The borders of Red river, and the margins of several
jther considerable streams, will admit of good settle-
nents through the whole extent of their respective
courses. Much of the interior, though denuded of wood,
'ar from market, will furnish valuable ranges for the
•fiaring of cattle.
Between Red river and the Rio Grand del Norte, in-
cluding those rivers, there is a remarkable uniformity in
lie course of the streams : their direction towards the
)cean is southeast. After this manner flows the Nueces,
juadaloupe, Colorado, Brasses a Dios, Sabine and Cal-
;asiu. Some of the best harbors in the Gulf of Mexico,
ie between the Sabine and the Rio Grand del Norte.
If, by the laws of nations, as applicable to national
•igbts acquired by discovery or preoccupancy, the limits
)f the country called Louisiana, under all circumstances,
)ught to be so extended as to embrace the province of
Texas, at the time of it» cession by the French to the
Spaniards, in the treaty of 1762 ; it clearly follows, that
;he United States are now entitled to that province, by
;he treaty of 1803. But, even admitting the claim of
he United States to that country could not be urged, on
;he principles of national law, the dictates of sound poli-
;y would direct Spain to consent to the establishment
)f the Rio Grand del Norte, for a permanent boundary
)etween the territories of the two governments. This
'iver is but of small national importance. It is a long
stream, with but few tributaries, sparingly supplied with
ivater for its length, and bordered, most of its course, by
lands naturally barren — presenting a continuous dreary,
wide chasm, on either side, which affords no inducements
to occupancy or cultivation. Its banks, therefore, if at
ill inhabited, must be ocGupied by a very thin popular
252 TEXAS.
tion. Thus here has nature seemed to have prescribed
a space, almost as distinguishable for a national boundary,
as an extended range of impassable mountains, or abroad
expanse of fathomless waters. Yet such has been the
moderation and pacific policy of the American republic,
that in their late projet for a treaty with Spain, they
waived their claim to Texas : but the treaty not being
ratified on the part of Spain, the discussion is still open,
and the waiver may be considered as resumed.
J
ffe..
^
MICHIGAN TERRITORY.
This territory in length is 310 miles, in breadth 180;
and is situated between 41° 31' and 46° 39' north lati-
tude, and between 5° and 9° west longitude. It is bound-
ed south by the states of Indiana and Ohio ; east by lakes
Erie, St. Clair and Huron ; north by lake Superior ; and
west by lake Michigan ; and contains about 30,000 square
miles.
The southern boundary begins at the eastern shore,
about 15 miles from the southern bend of lake Michigan ;
thence due east to the line between Indiana and Ohio ;
thence, on that line, sojith, to about 41® 31'; thence due
east over the Maumee, tliree miles above Perrysburgh ar
Fort Meigs, on to lake Erie, seven or eight miles from
the mouth of Portage river, and about 16 miles from San-
dusky Bay.
The eastern boundary from the southern line, traverses
the head of lake Erie, passes by an undefined line through
the rivers Detroit and St. Clair into lake Huron, over
the middle waters of that lake, to the mouth of the strait
of St. Marys, into lake Superior, and over the middle
waters of that lake, till it cuts a line drawn perpendicu-
larly from the southern bend over the middle waters of
lake Micliigan across into lake Superior; which per-
pendicular line is the western boundary of the Michigan
territory.
X
S54 MICHIGAN TERRITORY.
The following columns exhibit the counties and chi'ef
towns in the territory :
Counties. Toivns. Counties. Towns.
Wayne, - Detroit. Munroe, - Munroe.
Macomb, - Mount Clement. Oakland, - Pontiae.
Mackinaw, Mackinaw.
According to the census of 1810, the whole population,
was 4,762 ; at present it is supposed to be 12,000.
Detroit is the metropolis. It stands on Detroit river,
in latitude 42° 25' and longitude west 5° 23'. The set-
tlement of this town was commenced in 1680. It wa^
occupied merely as a military post, and has been a great
resort for Indian traders, before and since it was placed
under the jurisdiction of the United States. The town
occupies an elevated, romantic situation, on the bank of
the river, containing about 300 buildings of all descrip-
tions. More than half of the inhabitants are French.
The public buildings are a jail, council house, and a Uni-
ted States' store : the latter a neat brick building, 80 feet
by 30, three stories high. In 1813 it was filled with the
trophies of war from the Thames. The town is in a flour-
ishing condition, carries on a brisk trade, and is much
resorted to by Indians.
Face of the country, soil, Sfc. — This country is desti-
tute of mountains. The interior may be considered ta-
ble land, sloping eastwardly and northwardly, diversified
with many small lakes, and divers places are interspersed
with extensive marshes, which feed the head branches of
rivers.
Large tracts of praira are spread over many parts of
this territory ; of which some are covered with an excel-
lent soil, others are sandy, wet and sterile : the timbered
tracts are, however, spacious j the growtli, oak, sugar »it»
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. S55
pie, beech, ash, poplar, white and yellow pine, buckeye,
lynn, hickory, cedar, plumb, crab apple, cherry, black and
honey locust. The bottoms and high prairas are gen-
erally of a superior quality.
Much of the Michigan lake is bordered by high swells,
composed of sand, thrown up by the winds and waves.
The wood lands, when cleared oft' and cultivated, are
productive of most kinds of grain, and are covered with
a strong and durable soil.
Lakes and Bays. — The territory of Michigan embraces
about one tenth of lake Erie ; a third of lake Huron ; a
small part of lake Superior ; and half of lake Michigan.
Northnorthw^st of Detroit, within the interior, is a cluster
of beautiful lakes, of various dimensions, from an area of
100 to 1000 acres each. They form reservoirs for the
head branches of various streams, which flow from near
the territory into the great lakes, which nearly surround
it
Of the bays, the principal which indent the coasts, are
the Maumee, Sagana and Thunder bay. The former is
at the mouth of the Maumee, expanding from a width,
near its mouth, of six miles, to double that width, and
then contracting gradually for twelve or fifteen miles to
the common space of the river.
Sagana bay projects from lake Huron on the northeast
shore of the territory, nearly south, a little inclining to
the west ; extending in length, forty miles, with a breadth
of from eight to twelve miles ; and extends, with a more
narrow space, many miles further back.
Thunder bay is further up, on the same coast, and was
said to be remarkable, when Carver traversed that region,
for almost continual thunder; an occurence which mod-
ern travellers have not noticed.
S56 MICHIGAN TERRltORY.
The rivers of Michigan are numerous ; manj of which
are navigable almost to their head branches, "fhe first
river of consequence, as you proceed northwardly on the
eastern coast, is the Baisin, memorable for the defeat of
General Winchester's detachment, in the late war. The-
common width near its mouth, is about 50 yards. It is'
navigable nearly seven miles, to Munro?, a new town,
near where Winchester surrendered. There a short ra-
pid breaks the current; above which it is boatable SO^ot
40 miles. It finds its source among the marshes, 60 miles
west of its mouth. These marshes spread out about 20^
miles from tilie southern boundary line. This river inter-
locks with the St. Josephs, and receives the tribute of th»
Macon, 15 miles from the mouth of the Raisin. To the
mouth of the Macon, from within two miles of the lake,
on the Raisin, settlements have been made, mostly by
Frenchmen ; who raise an abundance of wheat, corn, po-
tatoes, and fruits of various kinds. The soil on th& bot-
toms is rich and durable ; but much of the upland is\.
light and sandy. Several grist and sawmills have beea
erected on the river. The inhabitants, of whom some
have been residents for 30 years, have generally enjoyed"
fine health. From the Raisin to the mouth of the Mau-
mee is 18 milog. Within this space several small streams
are found ; on some of which are good mill seats.
The Huron of lake Erie, or lower Huron, flows into
lake Erie a short distance from the mouth of Detroit
river, and draws its head waters near the small lakes in
the interior. It is deep and gentle, from 20 to SO yards
wide for many miles up, and boatable for 50 or 60 miles.*
The river Rouge flows into Detroit river five miles be-
low Detroit, and draws its head streams from the small
prairas 20 or 30 miles north-northwest of that place. It
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. S57
is navigable for vessels of large burthen, many miles ;
on which is a dock yard five miles from its mouth, The
margins of this river are spread out into spacious rich bot-
toms ; on which many large sycamore and black walnut
trees are found. The Indian title to most of these lands
lias been extinguished.
The river Huron of St. Clair,^ or upper Huron, dis-
charges into lake St. Clair, about 20 miles above Detroit,
and takes its rise from among the small interior lakes.
This is a beautiful stream, flowing down 20 or SO miles
from Pontiac to the lake, with a rapid, clear and almost
unbroken current. The banks occupy some of the best
land in the territory. Twenty years have elapsed since
the French here made a considerable settlement. Nu-
mei'ous Canadian emigrants, from the river Thames, are
establishing new homes in this part of the country. The
bottoms of the Huron are spacious and fertile ; the growth
sycamore, locust, hickory, elm, poplar and maple : the
upland is covered with oak, ash, hickory, and some pine.
A number of mills have been erected for the accomoda-
tion of the settlers.
Beside therivers named, are a great number more of
intervening smaller streams, that water and variegate
those parts of the country, which, since 1818, have been
exposed for sale by the general government. Most of
these streams afford facilities for the transportation of
produce from the interior ; and all of them are means of
fertility and agricultural convenience.
Of those which intersect the country still retained and
partially occupied by the Indians, the river Sagana is the
most important. It draws its sources from numerous
tributary branches, and after flowing from the north of
the small lakes, and watering a pleasant country of great
fertility, discharges its waters into Sagana Bay.
^58 MICHIGAN TERRITORY.
On the western shore of the territory, in proceeding
southwardly, divers rivers present themselves, succes-
sively, in order, as hereafter named, viz. Pine, Sun-flint,
Carpe, Plate, Small Drake, Raspberry, Ministick, Aux
Sable or Sandy, St. Nicholas, Rocky, White, Mustiga,
Grand, Grape or Raisin, and Calamaza rivers.
The St. Joseph is a large, beautiful river, drawing its
head sources from near some of the tributary streams of
the Maumee, affording an easy communication between
Detroit, Fort Wayne and lake Michigan, and thereby
promoting the objects of trade with the Indians. Thig
stream has a rapid current, interspersed with islands,
affording navigable waters to the extent of 150 miles,
traversing the territory about 40 miles; it flows into
the southeast end of lake Michigan, through a moutli 200
yards wide. Here the Pottawattimies inhabit the shore,
where they catch prodigious quantities of fish.
Grand river is the largest stream which pays tribute
to lake Michigan ; it draws its head waters from the in-
terior lakes, interlocking its branches with those of the
Raisin, Black river and Sagana. It is described as tra-^
versing a country interspersed alternately with woods
and open prairas, abounding with various species of wild
game. It is navigable with small craft to its source, an
extent of nearly 140 miles. It flows into lake Michigan,
about 80 miles north of the southern extremity. In high
water, boats pass from this river to the Huron, and thence
into lake Erie. It is said that by a canal, at a small ex-
pense, a communication might be opened from this river
to the Sagana, that flows to lake Huron.
Black river takes its rise near the Maumee, from small
lakes, interlocks with the two St. Josephs, Raisin and
Grand rivers, and enters the lake 14 mi!es north of the
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. S59
mouth of St. Joseph, with which it runs nearly parallel
for 70 miles. The soil on the banks of this stream, which
is convenient for navigation, is represented to be of an
excellent quality. Its head branches are occupied by
several Indian villages.
The Detroit, St. Clair and St. Mary's, which might be
classed among straits, though not exclusively appertain-
ing to the territory, as they constitute some of the most
important features of the country, are entitled to a de^-
scriptioo.
The Detroit is 28 miles long, and connects lake St.
Clair with lake Erie. It is 1100 yards wide at Detroit,
enlarging as it descends, and is navigable for vessels of
any burden.
The St. Clair, 50 miles in extent, connects lakes Hu-
ron and St. Clair. Its current and depth are nearly the
same as the Detroit. A sand bar at its mouth, and a rapid
at its head, form considerable impediments to the navi-
gation. Vessels heavy laden must be lighted before they
pass the bar. A fair wind enables a vessel to ascend the
rapids.
The Straits of Sf. Mary, exceeding the length of 80
miles, form a communication between lakes Huron and
Superior. This stream embraces many large islands, of
undetermined jurisdiction. The Falls, or the Saut of St.
Mary, tire near the head of the Strait, and in the distance
of 90 yards have a perpendicular descent of about 22 feet.
Boats are towed up these rapids without great labor, and
descend without peril. The latitude of these falls is 46°
S9'.
Islands. — The island of Mackinaw is situated north of
the peninsula of Michigan, in the straits of Mackinaw, in
•latitude 45° SS' north. This island is seven miles in
S60 MICHIGAN TERRITORY.-
circuit, the greater part of which is covered with an im-
penetrable thicket of underwood and small trees. The
ground, which is of an elliptical form, gradually rises to
the height of 150 feet above the lake, 100 yards from the,
shore. On this summit stands fort Holmes, which now
presents one of the most formidable positions in the
western country. It is composed of a strong stockade,
is neatly built, and exhibits a beautiful appearance from
the water. The village, near the fort, contains a Roman
Catholic church, and nearly 150 houses, most of which
are ordinary buildings, inhabited by Frenchmen. This
place is much resorted to by the northwestern traders,
who, in the months of June and July, often assemble here
to the number of 700 or 800.
Manitou island, near the^ northeastern coast of lake
Michigan, is six miles long and four miles wide.
The Beaver Islands consist of a cluster, extending
from Grand Traverse Bay nearly across the lake. They
are low and sandy, affording shelter to light boats, on
their way to Green Bay.
Grosse island consists of several thousand acres of
valuable alluvial ground, being in length five miles, and .
in breadth from one to two. It is two miles from Mai-
den, and divides the river Detroit into two channels.
The settlements, consisting of the white population, ^
have been chiefly made on the strait of Detroit, the i-ivers *
Maumee, Raisjn, Huron, and lake St. Clair ; they are,.;
however, extended from fort Meigs to lake Huron, in-
terrupted occasionally, from three to ten miles in extent,
by woods, or Indian reservations. Where the French
are settled, the lots are narrow, houses thick, always
fronting the creeks, rivers and lakes. From the river
Rouge to lake St. Clair, a distance of 12 miles, the set-
]itlCHIGAN TERRITORT. 261
tlements resemble the suburbs of a large town, the houses
beinw but 20 rods distant from each other, and much of
the way, not so far apart. Considerable settlements have
lately been formed on lakes Huron and Michigan.
The Indians within the territory have been estimated
it 3000 souls. The Ottawas ocoupy two villages near
Maumee bay, and another 6 miles above fort Meigs ; they
iKv^ also establishments on the river Huron and at
L'Arbre Cruche, where they have made greater progress
in the arts of civilized life, than the other aborigines.—
They profess the Roman Catholic religion, and hare a
chapel and a priest. Th^^ Miamies have four or five
towns on the head branches of Black river. The Potta-
wattimies have a settlement on the river Macon, above
the plantations of the French on the Raisin. They also
occupy two villages on the river Rouge, several on the
St. Joseph, and one on the river Huron, 15 miles from
Brownstown. The Wyandots live at Brownstown and
Magauga ; in each of the two latter places is a village,
containing, in the vrhole, 44 houses. The Chippewas,
on Sagana river, have villages. All the tribes cultivate
Tndian corn, some of them wheat, garden vegetables and
fruit — raise cattle, horses, hogs and poultry : but their
chief means of subsistence is drawn from the woods and
the waters.
Wild Animals, Fowls and Fish. — No section of the
United States is more abundantly supplied with wild
game, aquatic fowls, and fish, than the territory of Michi-
gan. Bears, wolves, elk, deer, foxes, beaver, otter, musk-
rats, martin, raccoon, wild cats, rabbits and squirrels,
are numerous in the forests.
Wild geese and ducks are found in such immense
flocks on the lakes, rivers and bays, that their vociferous
MICHIGAN TERRITORY.
squalling, and the thundering noise of their wings, seem
to remove all apprehension of the fear of man. Of this
tumultuous confusion, proceeding from numbers, the
sportsman takes advantage, to repeat his fires, without
giving alarm or disturbance to the game. Wild turkies,
quails, grouse, pigeons and hawks, are also plenty — the
latter in autumn appear in swarms, and prey upon corn
and new sown wheSt.
All the rivers between the Maumee and the St. Joseph
of lake Michigan, together with the lakes, bordered by
shores 600 milee in extent, contain inexhaustible supplies
of fish. The trout of Mackinaw, which weigh from Id.
to 70 pounds, possess an exquisite relish, and are caught
at all seasons of the year. White flsh are caught in pro«
digious numbers, with seines, in the strait of Detroit, and
in lake St. Clair. They also are taken with great dispatch
by hooks and spears. Great plenty of sturgeon are found
in these lakes.
Several Ancient Mounds, within SO miles of Detroit;
on the river Huron, are raised on a dry bluftj where 16
baskets full of human bones, of an extraordinary size*
were found in digging one cellar. On the west bank of
Huron, near the mouth, the labors of those ancient people
are distinguishable, in the form of a fortress, with walls
of earth thrown up, like the fortifications discoverable
in the states of Indiana and Ohio.
At Belle Fontaine, or Spring Wells, three miles below
Detroit, are three small mounds, in a straight line, about
10 rods apart ; one of which has been opened, where ma^-
ny bones, stone axes, arrow heads, &c. were found. One^
fourth of a mile distant, are the remains of an ancient for-
tification, enclosing several acres of ground.
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 863
Climate and Diseases.— The climate of the eastern
lart of this territory, is not unlike that of the western
ounties of New-York and Pennsylvania — milder next
he state of Indiana — on the coast of Huron and St. Clair
iiore severe ; where winter weather is generally felt two
k'eeks earlier than at Detroit. Lake St. Clair continues
rozen from December to February. The northwest
dnds blow with great violence across lakes Huron and
luperior.
The prevailing diseases of this climate are fevers, in-
ermittent and bilious, agues, jaundice, and dysentery ;
lie latter is often fatal to children. Consumptions are
are.
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY.
When the territory of Illinois Assumed the charactet"
of a state government, the residue of the Northwestern
Territory was placed under , the territorial jurisdiction of
Michigan. The immense tract of country, stretching
out northwardly on the borders of the British dominions,
exceeding more than three times the space of Michigan
territory, is bounded on the south by the state of Illinois ;
©n tlie east by lake Michigan, and the waters forming a
communication with that lake and lake Superior ; on tlie
north by the British boundary line, extending through the
latter lake, and thence to, and through the lake of the
Woods, on said British boundary line, to a point due
north of the head sources of the Mississippi ; and on the
west, by a line due s6uth from the northern boundary
to the head of the Mississippi, and thence on the Missis-
sippi to the northwest angle of the state of Illinois : be-
tween latitude 42° and 49° north, and longitude 9° and
18° west.
Face of the country, rivers, lakes, soil, productiom.
^'c. — Green Bay, in width from six to thirty milesi
stretches out north and south, parallel with lake Michi-
gan, to the extent of 120 miles ; communicating with the
northwestern part of the latter, by a broad outlet. Th(
peninsula between the two bays, is in width from 20 tc
40 miles,
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 265
Several rivers 'flow into Green bay, of which the Fox,
(hat meets the bay at the southwestern extremity, is the
principal. It flows through a mouth of 400 yards wide,
where the water is 20 feet in depth ; and is navigable 180
miles to the portage. Near the mouth is a French set-
tlement, consisting of 40 families. These settlers occu-
py both sides of the river for five miles, and have devoted
themselves to the cultivation of the soil. A century has
elapsed since the first establishment there by the French.
They raise corn, wheat, peas, potatoes, and various other
vegetables ; also large stocks of cattle and horses. The
soil on each side of the Fox river, near the mouth, is of
a good quality, and the wheat fields and gardens display
a charming appearance. The timber growth is walnut,
maple, sugar maple, poplar, elm, honey locust and pine.
The shores of the bay are variegated with prairas and
lands covered with large forest trees. For two or three
miles from the lake, the banks of the Fox are low, where
they gradually rise to the height of nearly 100 feet. This
elevation of surface continues to the Winnebago lake.
About 20 miles from the mouth of Fox river, is the
portage of Kakalin, one mile in length, the ground even
and rocky, the fall about 10 feet ; ripples obstruct the
navigation for nine miles, there being almost a continous
rapid to the fall of Grand Konimee, where is a fall of
five feet. Just above this fall, the river expands into a
sheet of water from two to five miles wide, and thirty
miles long, called Winnebago, or Puant lake. The bor-
ders of this lake display a pleasant surface and a fertile
soil, producing spontaneously, grapes, plumbs and other
fruits. Various Indian villages are scattered on the mar-
gins of the Winnebago, and above and below on the Fox
river. The Winnebagoes raise large quantities of corn,
Y
266 NORTHWESTERN TERRlTaRY.
beans, pumpkins, squashes, &c. The lake abounds in
excellent fisli and wild water fowls. Six miles east from
where the Winnebago narrows to the width of 100 yards,
up the river, is another lake, 10 miles long; three miles
above the latter, is the confluence of the De Loup with
Fox river. Here the lands, bordering on the river, are
agreeably diversified with prairas and woods. Extensive
tracts are overspread with wild grass, which grows lux-
uriantly, affording inexhaustible means of raising stocks
of cattle. From the river De Loup to the next lake,
called Puchway, is about 80 miles. The latter is nine
miles long. Further up, 12 miles, is Lac du Bceuf, which
extends 12 miles, and is covered with folles avoines, or
wild rice, and frequented, spring and fall, by prodigious
flocks of wild fowls.
Above Lac du 3ceuf, the river branches into two
streams, of nearly equal magnitude ; both of which are
so thickly covered with wild rice, as to be almost impas-
sable with water craft. Thirty miles above the forks of
these streams, is lake Vaseux, — exhibiting the appear-
ance of a complete meadow, thickly overspread with wild
rice.
A description of this plant, which presents so promi-
nent and distinguishable a feature in the wild vegetable
groupe of the country, though it may interrupt our sequel,
will not improperly suspend the attention of the reader.
This valuable aquatic plant (avena fatua) is scattered
over most of the lakes, rivers and bays of this territory.
This plant, called by the French fols avoines, and by the
Indians menomen, grows through water, from four to se-
ven feet deep J but does not take root in a hard, sandy
bottom. The surface of water when covered with it, re-
sembles inundated cane brakes— 4he blades shoot up from
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. S^T*
four to eight feet above the top of the water, and frequent-
ly grow so close to each other, as to prevent the progress
of canoes and boats. They are of the size of Tennessee
reed cane, studded with joints, and exhibiting the texture
and color of bulrushes— the branches, above the water,
have the appearance of oats. While in the milk, the
Indians, who gather large quantities for food, to protect
the crops from fowls, bind the heads together on the
standing blades, and when ripe, paddle a canoe by the
side of the branches, with outspread blankets, and beat
out the grain ; and so prolific is the plant, that a squaw
will soon fill a canoe. The wild rice is said to be as
nutricious and palatable as that which is made a commoa
article of commerce.
From lake Vaseux to the portage, between the ¥ox
and Ouisconsin rivers, is 15 miles. Within this space
the Fox river leads a very serpentine course, being so
incumbered with wild rice, as to render the use of oars
difiicult. Near the portage, the river does not exceed
the width of five yards, except where it spreads into
$mall lakes and rice ponds. In the course of five miles
the river is so crooked and circuitous, that the boatman
gains a distance towards the portage of only one quarter
of a mile. The ordinary length of the portage is two
miles ; but when the two streams are swelled by heavy
rains, loaded boats pass conveniently from one river to
the other. Half of the distance consists of a morass,
covered with tall wild grass ; the residue a plain, thinly
set with oak and pine. Half the way being a kind of
natural ravine, in a soft soil, and the remainder a level
space, so easy to be excavated, that a canal could be con-
veniently opened, at a small expense-.
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY.
At the portage, which is 350 miles east of the falls of
St. Anthony, and 240 from Praira du Chein, are two or
three French families settled. There the Ouisconsin is
about 100 yards wide, flowing with a strong smooth cur-
rent, tiie water transparent and the bottom sandy — a
low stage of water presents to the navigator troublesome
sandbars. The banks of the Ouisconsin are fertile and
pleasant; the surface rises into high hills, at a distance
of 10 or 15 miles. On the margins of the river formerlj
stood several neat Indian villages belonging to the Sacs,
and Ottigaumies, who raised from their lands an abun-
dance of Indian corn and other vegetables. Near the
site of these deserted towns, the soil is of an excellent
quality. The valley of Ouisconsin is spread out from
two to ten miles wide, and covered in some parts with
forests of large valuable white pines. A considerable
portion, however, of tlie bordering lands, is hilly and
mountainous, of a thin soil, and stinted growth of oak,
and hickory. The stones are generally calcareous.
On the south of the Ousconsin, the mountains abound
in lead ore of the best quality. This metal is represent-
ed by Carver to have been so plenty among the Indians,
that, at the great Saukie town, about 40 miles below the
portage, he saw large quantities of it strewed about the
streets.
The Fox and Ouisconsin rivers have long been the
avenue of all the commerce that has been carried on be-
tween the Mississippi and Mackinaw.
The mouth of the Ouisconsin is in latitude 43° 28';
within three miles of which, on the east bank, is the vil-
lage of Praira du Chein, deriving its name from a family
of Indians, who formerly resided there, known by the
appellation of Dogs. It was occupied as a. French post
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. S69
about a century ago— the garrison and village being
located about one mile below the present town, which
was established under the British government, in 1783.
The old establishment under the patronage of the French,
consisted of nearly 1500 souls. The present number of
inhabitants do not much exceed 400, exclusive of the
United States' soldiers now stationed there. The peo-
ple, belonging to that place, may be considered the de-
scendants ot a progeny produced from French scions
engrafted on aboriginal stocks. The incomplete out-
lines of the French character may be distinctly traced
in the manners, language and looks of the inhabitants,
who have made considerable progress in agriculture, and
the indispensible mechanical arts. The bottom on which
the village stands is nearly one mile and a half wide^ in
a manner environed Avith high, bald hills. Such have been
the agricultural improvements by the settlers, that they
are now able to furnish (having an excellent gristmill)
300 barrels of flour annually, for the garrison.
The rivers of the Northwestern Territory have three
general distinct courses : flowing northwardly to lake
Superior, westwardly to the Mississippi, and eastwardly
to lake Michigan and Illinois river.
Rivers flowing to the east,het\veen the northern boun-
dary of Illinois and the outlet of Green Bay, flow, in the
order named, viz. Tanahan, Wakayah, Masquedon,
Cedarj Roaring, Milwakee, Saukie, Skabayagan, Maurice,
and Fourche. These streams all run parallel with each
other, at a distance of from ten to twenty miles, and
heading from thirty to sixty miles of the lake.
Roaring river, the flowing of which produces a noise
that resembles distant thunder, heard at intervals of two
or three days, in the warm seasons, is approached by the
Y 2
5870 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY.
Indians with religious awe, who suppose the place to be
the residence of the Great Spirit. The noise is believed
to proceed from the attraction of the electric fluid, by
the great quantities of copper in that place, which so
impregnate the waters of the stream with mineral parti-
cles as to render the fish unpalatable and poisonous, to a
degree that prevents the Indians from eating them.
Between the entrance of Green Bay and Mackinaw,
flow the rivers Manistique and Mino Cochcen ; the for-
mer flows to lake Michigan, 30 miles north of the outlet of
the bay. This is a considerable river, deriving its source
from a lake near lake Superior. It is margined with
high, sandy banks, and covered with pine timber.
The Jlino Cochcen is deep and wide, drawing its head
waters from near Take Superior, and discharges in lake
Michigan, about 35 miles southwest of Mackinaw. Be-
tween the latter and the strait of St. Mary, the Bouchi-
taouy and St. Ignance enter lake Huron.
The Strait of St. Mary, connecting lake Huron and
Superior, is 50 miles long, having several channels which
embrace many islands ; of which the principal is St.
Josephs, 75 miles in circuit. The rivers Minaston, Mis-
continsaki, and Great Bouchitaouy, all flow into this
strait, of which the last interlocks with the. branches of
the Manistique.
The southern border of lake Superior is watered by
more than SO rivers, of which the most considerable,
commencing at the eastward of the lake, are Grand
Marais, Corn, Dead, Carpe, Great and Little Garlic,
and Porcupine rivers ; all which join the lake, east of
the great peninsula of Shagomogon, which projects into
the lake more than 60 miles. Between this peninsula
(bearing S70 miles west of Saut de Marie) and the Fond
'>:*;*««!:«*'.
KORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. ^71
du Lac, are the rivers Ontonagon, Fair, Montreal, Bad,
Burntwood, Godards and Strawberry. The St. Louis
flows into West Bay, at Fond du Lac. This river
which is large, and navigable 150 miles, takes its rise.
Dear the eastern head branches of the Mississippi. At
the mouth and near the source of the St. Loui?, the North-
west Company have established several trading houses.
Between the Ouisconsin, which wehave before descri-
bed, and the head sources of the Mississippi, numerous
streams flow from the east into the latter. The Le
Croix and Deer rivers interweave their branches with
the St. Louis, and enter the Mississippi below the forks
of the St. Louis.
Meadow river discharges, three miles below the falls
of Parkagamon, in latitude 46° 30' and is traversed with
Indian canoes 100 miles, winding through prairas, witK
pine and spruce swamps in their rear.
Swan river, next below, joins the Mississippi ; it is
navigable for canoes 90 miles, to Swan lake.
Sandy-lake river flows in, 40 miles below Swan river.
This river, though of a considerable size, is short, con-
necting Sandy lake with the Mississippi, by a strait, six
miles long. The circuit of this lake is nearly 25 miles.
It is the depository for several small rivers, of which the
most considerable is the Savanna, — that by a portage of
four miles communicates with the St. Louis ; having
been adopted, in connection with the former river, by the
Northwest Company, as a channel of communication be-
tween the western part of lake Superior and the Missis-
sippi.
Muddy river, a small stream flows in, 20 miles beIow»
The rivers following are in course as named, between the
last described and the Fails of St. Anthony : Red Cedar,
S7S NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY,
De Corbeau, Shrub Oak, Lake, Clear, Elk, St. Francis
and Rum rivers, all emptying in, from the east.
The St. Croix falls into the Mississippi a few miles
below the falls of St. Anthony, through an outlet of 80
yards wide ; 500 yards up, it dilates into a long, narrow
lake, from 2 to 3 miles wide and 36 miles long. This
stream communicates with lake Superior by Burnt river,
by a portage of half a mile only, having a gentle current,
without any falls or rapid. No otlier communication,
so advantageous, presents itself between lake Superior
and the Mississippi.
The Falls of St. Anthony, in latitude 44° 15' present
a grand and beautiful appearance. The whole river,
which is here 750 feet broad, falls perpendicularly, over
a height 35 feet. About 70 miles below these falls, is.
an expansion of the Mississippi, from one and a half to
four miles in width", and 22 miles long, devoid of any
island, called lake Pepin. In this region, three-fourths
of the banks of the ^Mississippi consist of open prairas,
or rather bald hills.
The river Montaigne, enters the upper end of lake
Pepin ; into the lower end of which the Chippewa
pours its waters. It is a deep, wide, handsome stream,
that interweaves its head branches with those of the
Montreal, which flows into lake Superior, and also with
the Menominie, that discharges into Green Bay. The
branches of the Chippewa are numerous, of which the
Rufus, Vermillion, and Copper rivers are the principal.
About SO miles from the Mississippi, it divides into two
large branches.
The Buffalo, Black, and Praira le Croix, between lake
Pepin and the Ouisconsin, flow into the Mississippi from
the east.
NORTHWESTEKN TERRITORY. ^S
The interior of this territory is watered by vast num-
)ers of lakes and ponds, forming the sources of thejM'in-
npal rivers.
Having described the lakes and rivers, according to
the best information we could obtain, we will subjoin a
short account of the soil and surface of this extensive
egion, which as yet has been but very imperfectly ex-
)lored.
The alluvial bottom lands, on the various streams,
lave been supposed equal in fertility to those of Ohio or
Vlichigan. The corn crops of Green Bay, Praira de
^hein, and even as far north as the banks of the Onton-
igon, which flows into lake Superior, grow as luxuriantly
IS in any part of the western country. A considerable
)ortion of the uplands and prairas, south of the parallel
)f St. Anthony's Falls, is of an excellent quality ; inter-
ipersed, however, with large tracts of low, wet, flat land,
rocky prairas, shrub oak ridges, and extensive strips of
I light sandy soil ; the latter being suitable for the cul-
ture of small grains. High, bald hills are the prevailing
features on the surface in many places on the banks of
[locky river and Ouisconsin.
According to the representation of lieutenant Pike, from
;he Falls of St. Anthony, with some exceptions, the soil
)n the banks of the Mississippi to the head waters of that
•iver gradually deteriorates, and much of the growth is
line and hemlock. There are, however, tracts of con-
liderable extent, as far up as the river De Corbeau (in
atitude 45° 50') suitable for plantations, where may b©
found small bottoms ; the timber growth, oak, ash, maple
and lynn. Thence to Pine river, the margins of the
Mississippi display a dreary prospect of high, barren
snobs, covered with dead and fallen pine timber ; occa«
S74 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY.
sionally, but rarely, are groves of yellow land pitch pine
on the ridges, and small bottoms of elm, oak and ash.— -
The adjacent country is, more than two-thirds of it, over-
spread with small lakes. Above Pine river, a very small
part is fit for cultivation — game scarce, the surface over-
spread with pine and hemlock ridges — ^but occasionally
some praira and small bottoms, on which the growth is
elm, beech and lynn
From Leech lake, «p to the extreme source of the
Mississippi, the whole face of the country exhibits the
appearance of an impassable morass, or boundless sa-
vanna.
Between 46'' and 47* north, within the area of a fevr
milfcs diameter, are the head sources of three great rivers,
the Mississippi, St. Lawrence and the Red river of Hud-
son's Bay, all flowing down in diiFerent directions and
pouring their waters into distinct seas, at a vast distance
from each other. Thus it appears, that this height of
land, flat and wet as it is, must be one of the most ele-
vated situations in North America.
The dividing lands, which separate the head waters of
the Mississippi from those of lake Superior, are covered
with forests of pine, spruce and hemlock— -thence pro-
ceeding towards the southern margin of lake Superior,
a tract of good land, suitable for cultivation, is spread
out extensively, consisting of bottom and upland.
From the Fond du Lac to Point Shagomogon, the
banks of the lake are generally of strong clay, mixed
with stones, which cause the navigation of the lake to be
perilous. From this peninsula to the outlet of the lake,
the shore is almost a continous straight border of sandy
beach, interspersed with rocky precipices of limestone,
from 20 to 100 feet high, without a single bay ; and good
NOKTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 275
larbors are rare : timber, oak, sugar maple and pine ;
jplands of a sandy soil, the bottoms rich.
On the southern shore of the St. Mary, are extensive
tracts of good land, suitable for settlements. The south-
ern bank of the river Miscontinaski is covered with an
'xcellent soil. On the margins of this river are handsome
)rairds ; in the rear large groupes of sugar maple, where
lie ChippeWays have established numerous sugar camps,
from this river to the rapids of St. Mary is almost one
:ontinued meadow.
The purchase, made by Jonathan Carver, of the Nau-
lowessie tribe of Indians, is situated within this territory.
5y that tribe the land was granted to Carver as a con-
iideration for his pacific interposition, whereby he dis-
iuaded the Chippeways, with a numerous band of war-
iors, from attacking and destroying the Naudowessies.
The tract, claimed by Carver's heirs, contains 8,000,
100 acres, and is included within the following bounda-
ie«, viz. " From the Falls of St. Anthony, running on
he east bank of the Mississippi, nearly southeast, as far
ls the south end of lake Pepin, where the Chippewa
oins the Mississippi ; and from thence eastward five
lays travel, accounting 20 English miles per day; and
i'om thence north six days travel, accounting 20 English
niles per day ; and from thence again to the Falls of St.
Anthony, on a direct line." To obtain a confirmation of
his Indian grant from the crown. Carver sailed to Eng-
and, where he died. His heirs, in 1817, applied to Con-
;ress to confirm the grant made to their ancestor ; but
heir claim was rejected. The lands described in Car-
er's grant are watered by the Chippewa, Mountain and
St. Croix rivers, beside several smaller streams. Carver
i supposed to be the only white man who has explored .
le interior of that region.
276 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY.
The country contiguous to the Chippewa, up to its
falls, about 60 miles, is remarkably level, and almost
denuded of timber and trees ; on the margins of the river
are beautiful meadows, where, as Carver states, he saw
large flocks of buffalo and elks feeding. Above the falls,
he found the country much broken, and thickly wooded
with pine, beech, sugar maple and birch. He represents
the country adjacent to St. Anthony's Falls, "as extreme-
ly beautiful ; the surface gently waving, and covered
with handsome groves of forest trees. Near the head ol
the St. Croix, he noticed a plenty of wild rice, and an
abundance of copper. The northwest wind is repre-
sented by him as much less violent in the interior of this
territory, than in the Atlantic states ; and he remarks, as
a proof of the mildness of the climate, that the wild ric(
comes to maturity in this region ; whereas it scarcel_)
ripens in lake Erie, and does not grow east of that lake.
On the eastern bank of the Mississippi, below the falls
of St. Anthony about SO miles, there is a cave of grea
extent, which was visited by Carver. The Indians be
lieve it the dwelling place of the Great Spirit. The en
trance into it is ten feet wide, and the height five ; th(
arch within, nearly fifteen feet high, and about thirtj
broad ; the bottom is composed of fine clear sand.—
Within, twenty feet from the enti-ance, is a lake, whosi
waters are transparent, extending to an unknown dis
tance. A pebble thrown into the lake, causes a reverbe
ratory, astonishing noise. Indian hieroglyphics are en
graved on the walls.
Minerals. — Some parts of this territory abound ir
valuable lead and copper mines. The mines between th<
Ouisconsin and Rock river, extend within five or six milei
of the Mississippi, occupying a space of eighty miles long
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. S77
from three to nine wide — the ore is of a superior quality,
and supposed to be inexhaustible. Carver affirms, that,
on both sides of the St. Croix, he discovered several mines
of pure, virgin copper. Henry King, Esq. says, that on
the Ontonagon, and in its vicinity, he found an abundance
of virgin copper ; and that the Indians, who manufacture
this metal into spoons and bracelets, showed him one
lump of 20 pounds weight, — and that it required no
other refining than to be beaten into shape. He asserts,
that on ascending that river, ten miles from the mouth,
he discovered a mass of copper, according to his estima-
tion, of no less than five tons, from which he severed with
his axe, 100 pounds. He supposed this mass of ore, which
was at the foot of a steep hill, had parted from a larger
mass and rolled down.
Upon the island of Nonibojou, between Point Manance
and Michicopoten, on the north east coast of that island,
this adventurer found several pieces of virgin copper, of
which some resembled the leaves of vegetables, and
others the forms of animals j and were from an ounce to
three pounds ia weight
Near the mouth of Roaring river, lumps of copper,
of from seven to twenty-five pounds weight, have been
found; large quantities of the same metal have also
been found on Middle Island : near the western coast
of lake Michigan, considerable quantities of pure copper
have been found. Lead is represented as abounding
on the river Depage ; and iron ore, copperas and allum,
on the shores of lakes Huron and Superior.
^n ancient fortification, four feet high, and nearly
one mile in extent, just below lake Pepin, on the east
bank of the Mississippi, may very distinctly be traced.
Its form is a regular circle, the flanks extending to the
z
S78 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORT.
river : the angles are still definitely prominent, and ap<=
pear to be fashioned with great art. Mounds of con-
siderable elevation, have been found on Menonomie and
Gaspard rivers.
Of the Indians in this territory, the Menonomies and
Winnebagoes are the only tribes which appear here to
be exclusively located. The former occupy villages on
the Menonomie and Fox rivers, at the Kakalin and
Grand Kenomie portages, apd on the Winnebago lake.
Their forms are well proportioned, their deportment
majestic, their eyes handsome, and their utterance in
speech, animated ;— 'their language bears no resemblance
to the neighboring tribes, and is difficult to be acquired.
War and pestilence have so reduced their tribe, that
they can muster only 250 warriors. But their bravery has
rendered them so much respected, that they are indulged
by the Sioux and Chippeways with the privilege of hunt-
ing on their grounds.
The Winnebagoes occupy villages on the Ouisconsin, jj
Rocky and Fox rivers, on Green bay, on an island in
lake Michigan, and on Winnebago and Puckway lakes.
Their number of warriors are reckoned at about 300,
The same species of Fish which swim in the other
great western lakes, east of lake Superior, are very abun-
dant in the latter j as also in the numerous rivers whicli
flow into the lake, from which, and some of its tributary
streams, salmon trouts have been taken, that exceeded
50 pounds weight each.
ARKANSAW TERRITORY.
The boundary lines of this territory, which was carved
out of the territory of Missouri, and by act of Congress
of March, 1819, erected into a separate territorial gov-
ernment, are as follow, viz. beginning on Mississippi
river, at 36° north latitude, running thence west to the
river St. Francis, thence up the same to S6° SO' north
latitude ; and thence west, to the western territorial
boundary line ; thence south on the same line, to 33"
north latitude ; thence east, on the northern boundary
of the state of Louisiana, to the Mississippi ; thence up
that river to the place of beginning. This territory,
whose length and extreme breadth are equal, being near-
ly 240 miles each, contains about 50,000 square miles,
and is situated between 13° and 17" west longitude, and
between 33° and 36° SO' north latitude.
Face of the country, rivers, soil, timber growth, Sfc. —
Of the rivers which water the territory of Arkansaw,
the Mississippi, the Arkansaw, the Washita, the White
river, and the St. Francis are the principal. For a des-
cription of the two former, we refer our readers to the
preliminary remarks ; and for that of the Washita, to
o\ir geographical sketches of Louisiana.
White river rises in the Black mountains, which sepa-
rate it from the Arkansaw. The northern and eastern
■tranches of the former river, derive their sources from
^0 ARKANSAW TERRITORY.
near those of the Osage, the Gasconade, the Maramack,
and the western branches of the St. Francis. The ex-
treme western branches commence more than 200 miles
on a straight line west of the western boundary of the
territorj, and entering the northwestern part thereof,
the river traverses, in an eastern course, more than half
the width in a straight line, of the territory ; and receiv-
ing Black river from the north, a little below the junction,
turns short, and flows nearly in a southern direction,
and disembogues into the Mississippi, about 20 miles
above the mouth of the Arkansaw. Thirty miles above
the junction, a bayou puts in from the Mississippi, form-
ing a communication between the two rivers, the current
setting alternately from, or to the several streams, ac-
cording to the greater elevation or depression of the one
or the other. The navigation of the White river, as it
runs, is computed to extend, from its mouth, 1,200
miles ; on a straight line, not exceeding 500. It is ex-
empted from shoals and rapids ; and its current, which
is pure and limpid, is not low, even in the dryest sea-
sons.
Below Black river, several smaller streams flow in,
among which are Rapid, John, James, and Red rivers,
being each navigable from one to three hundred miles.
Black river, composed of many tributary streams of con-
siderable size, is navigable 400 miles. Up 50 miles from
the mouth, is Lawrence, the seat of justice for Lawrence
county. Spring river, which is a tributary of Black
river, remarkable for its formation by -the junction of a
number of springs issuing near each other, is so copious,
as to produce a stream 200 yards in width, narrowing to
a current of 50 or 60 yards, which is navigable for 50
miles, swarming with excellent fish, and affording a re-
ARKANSAW TERRITORY. S81
treat, through the winter seasons, for immense flocks of
swans, geese and ducks. At the mouth of this stream
a town is laid out.
In the region watered by White river, the prevailing
stones are lime and marble, by the decomposition of which
is produced that excellent soil, which is spread over the
surface. There are some prairas, but they are of mode-
rate extent. The surface, though generally waving, is
in some parts, broken, and interspersed occasionally
with knobs. The soil, with few exceptions, is strong
and fertile, well supplied with springs of pure water, and
shaded with handsome forest trees. The country, in
point of soil and timber growth, much resembles the best
parts of Kentucky, Indiana, and West Tennessee. The
tract to which this description applies, is more than 150
miles square. Beside cotton and tobacco, which grow
luxuriantly, corn, the small grains, and the various kinds
of fruit trees,,that flourish in the western country, suc-
ceed in tliis soil. The mountains on the northwest and
north, sheltering this region from the cold winds, confer
a mildness on the climate, as favorable to the security of
tender plants and fruits, as is common to latitudes in the
west, 2 or 3 degrees further south. After the state-
ment of these facts, it need not be added, that few situa-
tions, of so southern a latitude, afford sogi'eata security
to the health of the human constitution.
This whole tract has been surveyed, and is now ex-
posed for sale. Below the forks of White river, about
100 miles, salt works are established at a saline, which
is said to be copious, and strongly saturated with salt
The St. Francis is formed from two large branches,
which unite a few miles below the northern boundary of
the territory ; the eastern finds its sources in the hiiia
S8S ARKANSAW TEKRITGRY.
west and northwest of Cape Girardeau, from SO to 60
miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and runs nearly par-
allel with the Mississippi : the western branch heads
near the extremities of branches which flow to the Mara-
mack, in the lead mine region, and pursues, to the junc- '
tion, a southwardly course. Below the junction of the St.
Francis, the river, running nearly parallel with the Mis- .
sissippi, at a distance of from 40 to 60 miles from the
lattei", joins it about 75 miles above the mouth of White
river. It is navigable 300 miles, to within 60 miles west
of Cape Girardeau. The southern bank is considerably
overflowed by high waters, some of it irreclaimable
swamps, and the current obstructed by drift wood.—
Much of the northern bank is overspread with cane.
Two bayous put out from the Mississippi, and extend
to the St. Francis many miles above its mouth.
Chepousa river rises in a small lake, and running near- ,
ly 70 miles, falls into the Mississippi 90 miles below the
mouth of the Ohio.
Between the St. Francis and White river, below the
forks of the latter, are various small streams, of consi- .
derable length ; part flowing into the latter, and part in-
to the former, in a southern direction. The soil alluvial,
deep and strong ; but the surface generally low and flat,
a considerable portion of it marshy, and occasionally in-
undated. There are, however, large tracts in this region,
suitable for cotton plantations.
The Jirkansaiv enters that territory, near the centre,
on the western boundary, and flowing in an eastern
course more than 100 miles, as the river runs, thence
turns and meanders east, and after pursuing a very ser-
pentine route, pours its waters into the Mississippi, about
80 miles, on a straight line, from the southeast angle of
AEKANSAW TERRITORY. 283
the territory. Tlirough the greater part of this route,
the banks are inundated by high waters. Where not too
low, the soil, which is deep and strong, produces luxuri-
ant cotton crops. The timber growth resembles that on
the Mississippi margins.
The post or town of Arkansaw, is about 45 miles from
the junction of the river with the Mississippi. This is
one of the earliest settlements in Louisiana, having been
commenced more than a century past. Hunting and
trade with the Indians, have chiefly constituted the em-
ployment of the inhabitants ; who, till of late, were mostly
French, and descendants proceeding from an intercourse
between French and Indians. A large proportion of the
land surrounding the settlement, is so low and flat, as to
be subject to inundation. The buildings in the town,
erected by the French, are ordinary, and seem to be in a
state of decay ; but of late, emigrants and recent settlers
have diffused a commercial spirit among the people, and
the place begins to assume a new appearance.
Between Arkansaw and White rivers, towards the
Mississippi, is a handsome praira, extending northwarldly
90 miles, in width from 6 to 12 miles, and constituting
the sources of the small tributaries, which flow to oppo-
site points into the two rivers. This tract of praira ap-
pears to be within the survey of 200,000 acres, intended
for the bounty lands of soldiers.
The Hot Springs are too curious and important an
object to omit, though we attempt here only to present
the mere outlines of the natural features of the country.
Those Springs are situated about latitude 34° 20' north,
eight miles from the Washita, on a little bayou, where the
two branches of it unite. The place is environed witix
mountains^ except on the southwest, by which the bayoxi
§84 ARKANSAW TERRITORY.
finds its passage to the Washita. From the side of a high
bluff, southeast of the bayou, issue 30 springs. The largest '
of these springs are said to be nearly six inches in dia-
meter. To the warm springs, which emit a heat that
will boil an egg hard in 15 minutes, the invalids resort;
of whom, in 1812, was the number of 300. The medici-
nal properties of these waters have been esteemed effi-
cacious in removing rheumatic pains, confirmed ulcers,
and all kinds of cutaneous aftections : but to those labor-
ing under pulmonary diseases, the application of these
waters has proved injurious.
Two miles from the Hot Springs is a quarry, which
abounds with oil stone, apparently of the same qualities
of the Turkey oil stone. In such estimation is this valu-
able stone held, that it is becoming an article of conside-
rable traffic. The lands for several miles around the Hot
Springs, except the margins of streams, are of an indif-
ferent quality, broken surface, thin soil, and fitted only
for the rearing of stock.
On the Foiirche Cado, a considerable branch, which
(being south of the Hot Springs) flows east to the Wash-
ita, is ap extensive body of rich arable land, on which
nearly one hundred industrious cultivators have, within
four or five years, commenced settlements. Six miles
below the Cado, near the Washita, is a valuable saline,
where considerable quantities of salt are made.
The country watered by the Little Missouri, that flows,
from the west, into the Washita, lies in the southwest
angle of the territery. This tiact, which contains nearly
fifty square miles, is supposed not to be exceeded by any
compact body in the west, of equal extent, either io fer-
tility, or other valuable properties, which serve to render
it desirable and convenient for cultivation. A large por-
AEKANSAW TERRITORY. S80
tion consists of praira, rarely exceeding 200 acres each,
covered with a deep, black mould, overspread with a lux-
uriant grass ;•— 'the prairas all skirted with thick borders
of stately oaks, of v/hich the trunks of many are nearly
40 feet, clear of limbs. This extensive tract of good land
occupies the ground which parts the streams flowing to
the Washita and Red rivers : and though much of the
surface is broken, it is not so hilly as to render it incapa-
ble of cultivation. A singular circumstance, worthy of
note, is, that the highest grounds are praira, and the low
grounds wood, consisting of various species of forest tim-
ber. Those prairas are pretty generally covered with
oyster and other sea shells, the remains of which appear
to extend two or three feet deep. The first settlement
in this part of the country was made in 1812. There are
now more than 1£0 families on this tract. In the county
of Arkansaw is supposed to reside about 6000 inhabi-
tants. It would be difficult to estimate the number within
the territory.
MISSOURI TERRITORY.
Having completed our Geographical Sketches of the
extensive region, commonly denominated the Western
Country, excepting that portion which is situated west
of the Mississippi, and north and west of the territory
of Arkansaw ; of this great tract, which remains to be
described, occupying a space but little inferior in magni-
tude, to all the residue of territory within the limits of
the United States, we shall proceed to give such sketches ,
and outlines, as have, after the most diligent enquiry^^^
come within our notice. As most of this immense re-
gion remains unexplored, and but little known, our de-
scription of it must necessarily be confined to general
lineaments, indefinite views, and such natural prominent
features on the surface, as are most distinguishable. The
Mississippi, and the western line of Arkansaw territory, >
form the eastern boundary ; the Pacific ocean the wes-
tern ; the territory of Arkansaw, and the Spanish Pro-
vinces the southern ; and the British Province of Upper
Canada, the northern. The territory of which we treat,
stretches out from 12° to 48° west longitude, and from
SS° to 49° north latitude. Its greatest length about 2,500
miles; its greatest breadth about 1,100; containing one
million square miles, or 640,000,000 acres.
MISSOURI TERRITORY. S87
Face of the country, rivers, lakes, soil, natural growth,
^•c. — Tributaries of the Mississippi, that flow to it on the
western bank, are, the Buffalo, about 150 yards wide at
its mouth ; Bear river, 20 yards wide ; Salt river, in
length 100 miles, and navigable 50 miles, enters the Mis-
lissippi 90 miles above the mouth of the Missouri. The
ands southwest of this river, bordering the Mississippi
50 miles, are of a good soil, prairaand wood conveniently
ntermixed. The country is healthy, and well supplied
with good springs of water. Considerable quantities of
alt are made on Salt river. In 1816, the first settlements
commenced ; which have increa.sed to more than 100
families. Jaustioni, SO yards wide, is the boundary be-
tween the United •'*<^ates and the Sacs. Wyaconda is
100 yards wide at the mouth. The Bes Moines, 150
yards wide at its mouth, flows southwestvvardly, 450
miles. It is 250 miles above the mouth of the Missouri,
and navigable, from its mouth, 300 miles. The country
watered by this river, is delightsome and fertile ; good,
timber and water are plenty. Iowa river, in width 150
yards at its mouth, is navigable for batteaux, nearly 300
miles, to where it branches into three forks, called the
Turkey's Foot ; which, a little above, expand into rice
lakes. From its mouth 36 miles, it forks into two bran-
ches, of which the west is called Red Cedar river, from
the prevailing growth of that species of wood on its banks.
Between the last described river and St. Peters, that en-
ters the Mississippi 40 miles below St. Anthony's Falls,
of a smooth gentle current, navigable to the source, 800
niiles, are twelve or thirteen small rivers, several of which
are navigable for many miles. The St. Peters is entered
by several tributaries, of which the principal is Sauteaux;
up which, 15 miles, are found the Sioux villages, in fine
288 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
pralra lands. Great and Little ^Sac rivers, the former
200 yards wide, flow into the Mississippi a little above
the Falls. Still further up, 45 miles, is Pine creek ; the
margins are covered with red and white pine— back of
these groves are prairas. Here Lieutenant Pike en-
camped and spent the winter, with his exploring party,
in 1805. Elk river has a communication by the Sau-,
teaox river, with the St. Peters. River de Corbeau flows
to the Mississippi about 575 miles above St. Anthony's
Falls. The Corbeau being equal in magnitude and ex-
tent to the eastern fork, which bears the name of the
Mississippi, Lieutenant Pike was of opinion, that the
junction of the two, being the extreme head branches,
ought to be considered the forks of that river. By a por-
tage of one mile from the Corbeau into Otter Tail lake,
one of the great sources of the Red river, a tributary of
Hudson's Bay, a communication by water is opened
from the Mississippi to that bay. Still further up are
several small streams, such as the Pine, Pike, Winipeg,j
and Leech lake rivers, the latter being fed by Leech lake, ^
one of theanain extreme head sources of the Misssissippi.
Near latitude 46° the Red river of the Hudson flows
by, to the west of the head sources of the Mississippi, and
after passing northwardly within the territorial limits of
the United States, more than 200 miles, enters the great
lake Winipeg near 52** north latitude. t.
The Mararaack, at its head, is a copioas spring, burst- '
ing suddenly from a large fountain, near the heads of the
St. Francis and White rivers. Its general course is east ;
after leading a serpentine navigable route 250 miles, it ?
enters the Mississippi, about 40 miles below the mouth
of the Missouri. A branch of this river, called the Negro
Fork, rises near the Mine a Burton, and flowing through
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 289
the lead mine region joins the main stream, about SO
miles from its mouth.
A description of the Missouri will be found in our
preliminary remarks. From the mouth of this river to
that of the river La Platte, in latitude 41°, a distance of
more than 600 miles, the land is generally of good quality,
and timber tolerably plenty ; in many places the soil rich,
and the face of the country pleasant. From the mouth
of the Missouri to the mouth of the Kansas, the former
does not vary more than a half a degree from an east
course, in the distance of 340 miles, as the river runs —
from the Kansas to the great northern bend at Shannon's
creek, latitude 43°, the course of the river is nearly
southeast, and the distance by water 720 miles. From
thence to the Mandan village, in latitude 47° 23' where
the Missouri makes nearly a right angle, turning short
from an eastern course, which it had pursued from its
western sources, it flows nearly south, through 4| de-
grees of latitude, a distance by water of 455 miles.—
From the confluence of the river La Platte with the
Missouri, for 1500 miles up, the soil becomes less pro-
ductive ; and except on the bottoms, the land of an or-
dinary second rate quality— the surface, the greater
part, void of timber, rather hilly, but not mountainous,
and with few rocks or stones. The particles constitut-
ing the soil being of a light texture, on the steep decli-
vities, are constantly washing by heavy rains to the bot-
toms of the hills. A surface and soil not unlike thiA
which lies on this portion of the margins of the Missouri,
is said to extend, eastwardly and westwardly, a great
distance from the river, on each side — the whole surface
¥athout forest trees, except on the margins of the streams
— ^the country, farther than the eye can reach, exhibiting
A a
290 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
an appearance of a grand praira, or rather barren, over-
spread with a short thick grass, interspersed with bios
9oms and flowers of every hue, that flourish and decay
in succession, according to the times of the maturity of
their respective species, from spring to autumn.
The summits of these hills, in the summer season, pre-
sent most enchanting prospects to the spectator, hill
and dale, widely extended plains, covered with a wav-
ing carpet of green, most fancifully decorated with aa
infinite variety of beautiful flowers— the great parent of
rivers in his majestic march, winding his course and
pouring his waters from a thousand tributary streams,
that bend their circuitous courses among the hills, de-
finitely bordered by narrow groves of stately cotton and
more humble willow trees,while thousands of elk, deer and
bulfe.lo are seen grazing, seemingly unconscious of dan-
ger, in these unfrequented walks of civilized man, all ap-
parently exhibiting to view the semblance of a surface of
a century's agricultural improvements, and of great flocks
of domestic animals, reared by the care of man, and scat-
tered widely over his plantations. The last described
region, though not generally eligible for the various pur-
poses of agriculture, is unquestionably well fitted for the
rearing of numerous flocks of horses, cattle and sheep.
The tract of country called the Cape Girardeau Dis-
trict, lies opposite the mouth of the Ohio, in width lOtt
miles, extending back, west from the Mississippi, 20a^
miles, is beautifully watered by the northern head
Ivanches of the St. Francis and White rivers.
A ridge of hills leaves the Mississippi, about 20 miles
above the mouth of the CMiio, being the first high land
on the west bank, from the mouth of the Mississippi, a
^stance of 1136 miles, connsting of a Kigli« rocky bluff.
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 291
that extends southwestwardlj, and divides the waters
flowing to the St. Francis and White rivers, from those
which flow to the Missouri and the Mississippi above the
bluff. Above this ridge of high land, to the north, a re-
gion is opened to the view, which assumes an appearance
totally dissimilar, and in many respects, preferable to
the alluvial plains to the south. To within three or
four miles of the Mississippi, above the bluffs, the lands
are much broken, and are ordinary second rate ; thence
westwardly, for a distance of 30 miles, the country is hil-
ly, the soil excellent, and the water and timber good
and abundant ; still further westwardly, excepting on
the bottoms of the numerous streams, barrens and flint
hills prevail. At a distance of nearly 70 miles south-
west of Cape Girardeau, some extensive, excellent bot-
toms are found, on the head branches of the St. Francis,
and a considerable tract of good land, well timbered^ is
spread out on the hills.
The great swamp, so called, commences about five
miles south of Cape Girardeau, in vndth, from three to five
miles, stretching nearly 60 miles long, terminating in
the low lands on the St. Francis. For a distance of 22
miles west of New-Madrid, a place of but little commer-
cial importance, towards Winchester, the seat of justice
for the county of New-Madrid, the land is sufficiently
elevated, and of a good quality, except what lies between
Winchester and the upper lakes, where the surface is
too low for cultivation. South of the former, the land
having been greatly injured by earthquakes, has been
abandoned. The Big Praira, eight miles long and four
broad, commences 14 miles north of New-Madrid. —
Clusters of trees here, resembling islands in the ocean,
are to be seen, environed by lands in a high state of im-
293 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
provement. The soil is abundantly productive of cot-s
ton, small grains, various kinds of fruit. North of the
praira, the surface exhibits a conjplete champaign, cover-
ed with stately oaks, walnut, mulberry and honey locust,
(a considerable space covered with shrubbery, without
high trees, being by itself,) the trees thinly set, and of a
regular distance as tiiough planted by art. Within the
same description may be included, as it respects growth
and surface, the range of country lying southwest, to-
wards White river. Cape Girardeau is one of the most
flourishing settlements on the western watei^s, extending
westward, a distance from the Mississippi exceeding 60
miles.
The county of St. Louis, which lies on the Mississip-
pi, between Cape Girardeau District and Missouri nver,
extending west beyond the mouth of the Osage, is partly
rolling and partly hilly, in the eastei-n section. For six
miles around the town of St. Louis are open prairas, of
which the surface is handsome but the soil is ordinary ;
on approaching the Florissant Valley, which occurs a-
bout twelve miles from St. Louis, the soil is excel-
lent. Here the prospect presented to the eye is delight-
ful, and the situation healthy. The middle of the county
is alternately rolling and hilly, consisting of excellent
second rate praira. The valleys are occupied with rich
bottoms, rarely flooded, affording several good mill seats.
The western part is open, rich praira, conveniently
skirted with valuable timber. The middle and western
parts are abundant in lead and iron ore ; and within 20
miles of St. Louis, it is said, that considerable quantities
©f tin have been discovered.
The streams which traverse this county, flow to the
Mississippi and Missouri, in order as named, proceeding
MISSOURI TEUftlTORY. S93
upwards, viz. The Maramack, which is bordered by the
lead mineral region, enters the former great river 18 miles
below St. Louis ; is navigable 300 miles, winding its
course eastwardly through a country of valuable lands.
The Big river. Bourbons^ and JVegro Fork, are branches^
of this river. The following enter the Missouri : th6
Bonne Homme, and the Gasconade. The latter is dis-
charged 100 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and
is navigable 100 miles. On its banks are numerous salt
petre caves, and the bordering lands abound in lead ore.
Lumber is transported down this river, a distance of 60
miles.
The Osage, which is navigable 600 miles, joins the
Missouri 133 miles from the Mississippi, through a
mouth 397 yards in width. The confluence of the Osage
with this river is in latitude 38° 30'. The head waters of
Osage flow from a ridge which feeds some of the branches
of the Arkausaw ; its course being generally eastwardly.
An eminence near the mouth affords an extensive and
delightful prospect of the adjacent country. The prin-
cipal branches of the Osage, are, Mary's, Big Bones,
Yangar, Potatoe, and Grand Fork rivers.
On the Yungar, about £0 miles from the Osage, is a
remarkable cascade, 90 feet in perpendicular descent.
To this river, from the mouth of the Osage, a distance
by water of more than 160 miles, the banks of the latter
are covered vnth a rich soil, possessing a growth of
handsome timber j the country adjacent to the margins
of the river on each side, being interspersed with rocky
hills. The stream of the Yungar is supposed to be near-
ly as large as the Osage, and to be navigable for canoeSj
except the mpids, 100 miles. The country, through
which it meanders, is remarkable for the number of bearii,
Afk2
S94 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
which range in its woods. After passing the Yungar, a
few miles up, is a pond of water half a mile in circumfer-
ence, about four rods from the bank, elevated 20 feeta-
bove the surface of the river, apparently on a sand bank.
The first appearance of praira on the Osage, is at the
Park, about 20 miles, by the course of the river (which
is remarkably crooked) from the mouth of the former.
Here the country displays a mixture of wood and praira
land. For a long distance is a bordering cliff, covered
with tall, beautiful cedars. From the Park to the Grand
Fork, which flows from the south, supposed by water
nearly 200 miles, the features of the country are nearly
the same as last above described. But from the Grand
Fork to the Great Osage Village, supposed about 60
miles, the praira land greatly predominates. About 9
tniles by land, northeast of the village, the east bank of the
river is an entire bed of stone coal. The country sur-
rounding the Great Osage village, in latitude 37° north,
is covered with an excellent soil, and displays a charm-
ing surface, consisting of open praira, finely diversified
by the winding courses of the three great head branches
of the Osage, meandering through the vallies, bordered
by a wide and apparently unlimited expanse of gently
rising swells and sloping lawns, covered with grass and
numerous flowers, where rapt into future visions, a
sanguine republican patriot might behold the whole face
of the country, farther than the eye could reach from the
hills, overspread with the effects of the productive labor
of the skilful cultivator — neat farm houses and fences,
orchards of various fruit trees, and numerous flocks of
every species of domestic animals, and groups of well
built villages resounding with the business noise of the
tradesman and mechanic.
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 295
A surface and soil similar to that around the Osage
village, extends quite to the sources of that river — ^a re-
gion of open praira, unlimited, except by the horizon, to
the view of a spectator ; diversified by gentle, broad un-
dulations of surface, possessing a rich soil, and an ample
supply of good water.
The following are the towns in the county of St.Louis:
Belle Fontaine, four miles above the mouth of the Mis-
souri, and fifteen miles north of St. Louis. Florissant,
16 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and northwest
from St. Louis. Herculaneum, 30 miles south of St. Louis.
Rogerstown, 40 miles southwest of St. Louis.
St. Louis, the chief town of Missouri Territory, on the
west bank of Mississippi, 15 miles by water below the
junction of the Missouri, and 14 above that of the Mara-
mack ; distant from Washington city 982 miles, in west
longitude 11° 14', latitude 38° 36' north; in 1810 con-
tained 1600 inhabitants, and in 1819, about 5,000. The
situation of the town is high and pleasant, being a gra-
dual ascent from tlie first to the second bank. Three
streets, parallel with the river, are intersected by a num-
ber of others, at right angles. The town extends upon
the river two miles. The highest bank, upon which the
town is chiefly built, is elevated nearly 40 feet above the
other, affording a fine view of the town and river. St.
Louis contains a Roman Catholic chapel, a theatre, two
banks, and two printing ofiices, from each of which issues
a weekly newspaper. The ancient houses are of wood
and stone, built af^er the manner of the French, with
large gardens appurtenant. Those lately erected, are
in the American style, cliiefly built with brick ; some of
which are elegant. This town was first settled in 1764.
295 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
Its site, in two respects, is very important: — 1. Being
near the outlet of three great rivers, flowing from differ-
ent points, each of which water a great extent of fertile
country. 2. Occupying a more central position, as it
respects territory, than any considerable town in the U.
States. St. Louis progresses fast in commerce and po-
pulation, and will probably be one of the largest towns
in tlie Union.
From the town of Herculaneum, on the west bank of
the Mississippi, 30 miles south of St. Louis, to St. Gene-
vieve, the land on the river is hilly, and of a thin soil ;
thence to the Saline, second rate, excepting a spacious
high bottom, contiguous to St. Genevieve, containing
nearly 10,000 acres, which is of an excellent quality. —
Beyond, the hills approach the river, bordering it for 8
miles ; thence, receding from one to three miles, leaves a
fine bottom, called Bois Brule, above the reach of high
waters, to Apple creek, being a distance of 20 miles.
The tract called the Barren Settlement, has a good
second rate soil ; is high, well watered, well timbered,
and productive of the small grains ; being occupied by a
number of industrious farmers. Southwest of Genevieve,
for 10 or 15 miles, though supplied with wood and wa-
ter, and producing moderate crops of grain, the lands
are ordinary. In this region lead and coal are abundant.
The lands watered by Big river, a branch of the Mara-
mack, possess a good soil, and are suitable for cultiva-
tion : thence to Potosi, the country is hilly ; further west,
the land is good, supplied with wood and water. Belle-
vue settlement, lying south of Potosi, contains a large
body of excellent land. There are valu.able mill seats
in this tract
MISSOURI TERRITORY.
397
In describing the rivers which enter the Mississippi
on the west side, we have remarked, that the lands, be-
tween the mouth of the Missouri, and a t'istance of more
than a hundred miles above, on the Mississipni, are good.
Within the above space, the ascent generally is gi-adual
to the summit of the hills, wliich are well supplied with
wood and beautiful springs of water. Between the river
and the hills, much of the space is occupied with rich
praira bottoms ; by connecting which with the higl\ lands,
pleasant sites for farms are afforded. Numerous small
streams of water flow through those lands. Northwest
from the town of St. Charles, the lands for a considerable
extent, are of an excellent quality, and conveniently in-
termixed with w^ood land and praira.
That tract of country which is included within the
limits of Howard county, is bounded east by the county
of St. Charles, (the tract last described) being, by a line
extended from the Missouri, a few miles above the Osage,
perpendicularly, to the northern Indian boundary ; on
the north and west by the Indian boundary lines ; and on
the south by the river Osage. The bottom lands within
these limits, on the Missouri, are from one to three miles
wide ; the upland is well elevated, covered with a rich
soil, and possesses a handsome growth of timber, inclu-
ding great numbers of sugar trees, and is intersected by
many small streams, which enter the Missouri. Of this
whole county, which contains 30,000 square miles, the
one half is first rate soil, presenting beautiful sites for
farms, on which settlements are making with almost un-
exampled rapidity. Some parts are so rolling, as to be
considerably washed by rains, and others are not suffi-
ciently supplied with good springs of wat^r. The por-
S98 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
tion best adapted to cultivation, extends back from the
Missouri from 15 to 30 miles ; 4>eyond, the surface con-
sists mostly of a broad expanse of open praira, much of
which possesses a thin soil. On the south side, large
spaces are broken into high broad hills, interspersed with
tracts of level, rich land. Here three-fifths of the coun-
try may be reckoned as praira. At the junction of Grand
river with the Missouri, an elevated plain affords a de-
lightful situation for a town. Between this river and
Snake creek, the surface is elevated and rich ; being co-
vered by a beautiful growth of timber.
Howard county embraces the settlements of Boon's ''
Lick, and also 500,000 acres for military bounties. These
bounty lands are situated about 215 miles from the mouth
of the Missouri, west of, and adjacent to. Boon's Lick
settlement They extend to the north bank, and border
on a bow of that river. This, taken as a body, is esteem-
ed an excellent tract of land. The surface generally is
rolling, and the soil rich ; near the streams (of which
there are several that traverse it) the land is well timber-
ed. On and near the rivers, the prairas are fiew and of a
moderate extent. Proceeding from the rivers, from 10
to 25 miles, ramifications of the great open praira are
found, where springs of water or trees are rarely to be
met with. Westwardly of the Bounty lands is situated
the 90 mile praira, narrow in width, extending up, nearly
parallel with the river, and separated from it by a consi- ^
derable space of good land, partly bottom, well supplied
with timber. On this praira is a handsome lake, strong-
ly impregnated with salt, in width from 150 to 300 rods,
And in length from three to four miles ; formed by springs,
and communicating, by a small outlet, with the Missduii
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 299
Streams flowing through the county of Howard, are,
branches of Wyaconda and of Salt river, and branches of
tlie Missouri ; such as Cedar creek, Roche Pere, Mari-
teau creek, having many licks and springs of salt water ;
Bonne Femme, navigable several leagues ; Hurricane, be-
tween which and the latter are Boon's saltworks ; First
Charitan, navigable 50 miles, from the northeast ; Se-
cond Charitan, from the same point, navigabl6 100 miles.
Grand river, navigable for 600 miles, empties from the
northeast ; Moreau from the southwest ; IMine liver. na-
vigable 40 miles, from the southwest. A branch of this
river, strongly saturated with salt, is navigable for boats
through the county. Lead ore is abundant on this river.
Several other smaller streams intersect the country, as
yet but imperfectly explored.
In 1818, Missouri territory, exclusive of Arkansas
and Lawrence, embraced seven counties, which, with
their respective chief towns, being seats of justice, are
exhibited in the following table :
Counties. Chief towns.
New-Madrid Winchester
Cape Girardeau Jackson
St. Genevieve St. Genevieve
Washington Potosi
St. Louis St. Louis
St. Charles St. Charles
Howard Franklin
The present population is estimated at about 50,000.
New-Madrid is 55 miles south of Cape Girardeau, and
148 south of St. Louis. Winchester is 22 miles north
of New-Madrid. Cape Girardeau is 93 miles south of
St. Louis, and 20 above the mouth of Oliio. Jackson, 12
miles northwest from Cape Girardeau, and 102 from St
300 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
Louis. Potosi, formerly called Mine-a-Berton, is 60
miles south-southwest from St. Louis, and about 45 west
of St. Genevieve. New-Bourbon, 53 miles south from
St. Louis. St. Michaels, 30 southwest of St. Genevieve.
Madinsborough, 15 miles south of Genevieve. St. Charles,
on the north side of the Missouri, 18 miles northwest of
St. Louis. Marthasville, 40 miles west of St. Charles.
Portage, oil the west bank of the Mississippi, 24 miles ^
north of St Louis. Charlotte, on the north bank of the
Missouri, 40 miles above St. Charles. Franklin, on the .
north bank of Missouri river. Chariton, on the nortli
bank of the Missouri, 20 miles west of Franklin.
The principal large rivers, which remain to be descri-
bed, are, the Kansas, La Platte, and the Yellow Stone.
The Kansas, which is one of the finest tributaries of
the Missouri, entering 650 miles above its mouth, finds
its head sources, which are numerous, between the Ar-
kansaw and La Platte. It is navigable for 1200 miles;
the adjacent country, which is but partially known, is
generally praira, and its course in many places is bor-
dered by high cliiFs of solid gypsum.
La Platte, 330 miles above the Kansas, being about
2000 miles in extent, is the longest and the largest stream
which pays tribute to the Missouri. But the current is
so choaked generally with extended beds of quicksands,
as to render it almost useless for navigation. Several
beautiful rivers, however, which enter it, have navigable
waters for a considerable extent. The country watered
by this river is but little known.
The Yellow Stone, next in size and extent to the La
Platte, enters the Missouri 1880 miles up. Its current
flows like a torrent, bearing down an immense body of
turbid waters.
MISSOURI TERRITORY.
301
The following table presents a compendious, though
incomplete view of the numerous tributaries to the
Missouri, above the Grand river :
Kansas, navigable 1200 miles, southwest side.
LUtle Platte, navigable 40 miles, northeast side.
J^Todawa, navigable 60 miles, northeast side.
La Platte, southwest side ; more than 2000 miles long j
but almost impassable with water craft.
Floyd's river.
Big Siouo'., navigable 200 miles.
White Stone.
River a Jaque, nav. 300 miles ; a rendezvous for traders.
Qwi Courre, s. w. a beautiful river, navigable not far up.
Poneas, southwest side.
White river, navigable 600 miles, s. w. A large beautiful
river, 300 yards wide at its mouth ; branches unknown.
Tyler^s river.
Chienne river, navigable 800 miles, s. w. not well known;
400 yards wide at its mouth.
Serwarsema, southwest side.
Winipenhu, southwest side.
Cannon Ball, southwest side ; 140 yards wide.
Knife river, southwest side ; near the Mandan villages.
Little Missouri, s. w. 134 yards wide; not navigable.
Goose river, 300 yards wide.
White Earth, northeast side.
Yellow Stone, s. w. 855 yards wide at its mouth ; a good
depth, but very rapid.
Porcupine, northeast side ; 112 yards wide.
Dry river, southwest side ; 100 do.
Big Dry river, do. 400 do.
Muscle-shell river,do. 100 do.
Big Home, do. 100 do.
B b
302 MISSOURI TERRITORY.
Manoles, southwest side ; 100 yards wide.
Fancy river, do. 180 do.
Dearborne.
Maria, northeast side.
Jefferson Fork, navigable 96 miles.
Madison, do. 80 do.
Gallatin, do. 60 do.
Principal tributaries of the Yellow Stone river, are —
Big Home, Tongue river, and Lewis's river. The Kansas
has Smoke-hill Fork, Grand Saline, Solomon's Fork, and
Republican Fork, for its tributaries. And La Platte has
Elkhorn, 400 yards in width ; Wolf river, 600, and the
Padoncas. Each of these large rivers receive tribute
from numerous smaller streams. To complete this im-
perfect sketch of the numerous streams that contribute
to form the majestic current of the Missouri, would re-
quire the scientific research and itinerant labors of years.
SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY,
WATERED BY
COLUMBIA mVER,
AND ITS TRIBUTARY STREAMS.
Of that portion of the territory claimed by the United
States, between the Rocky mountains and the Pacific
ocean, little is yet known, except what has been collect-
ed from the travels of Lewis and Clark. Their re^
searches were, however, necessarily very limited, being
principally confined to the banks of the Columbia and
its tributaries.
According to the boundary specified in the late project
for a treaty with Spain, this tract is bounded west by ^
the Pacific ocean ; north by the parallel of 49° latitude ;
east by the mountains which separate the head waters of
the Missouri from those of the Columbia. The extent
is in length about 800 miles, in breadth 500, containing
400,000 square miles. The sea coast, unlike that of the
Atlantic, opens no great bays, or mouths of large navi-
gable rivers, except the Columbia, to aid the transpor-
tation of agricultural productions, and to facilitate com-
merce. That great river, with its four great branches,
spreads out in different directions, to a vast extent,
drains this spacious region, besides extending some of
its ramifications far beyond, both to the north and south.
301 COLUMBIA RIVER.
The northern branch, which retains the name of Co-
lumbia, draws its head waters from near the frozen
ocean. Clark's river, interlocking with the head
streams of the Missouri, of which some of the extremi-
ties of each are separated by a space less than 300 rods,
flows in a broad circuitous route, in the form of a half
circle, a little flatted, and disembogues into the Colum-
bia about the latitude of 48°.
Lewis's river rises near the source of the Yellow
Stone, and winding its long route in a course more an-
gular, meets the main river, about 180 miles below the
former junction, in latitude 46°. The eastern branch,
by the name of Mtdtnomack, drains its head waters
from the same mountain, which gives rise to two other
great rivers — the La Platte, and the Colorado of Cala-
fornia, that flow to different oceans, 3000 miles apart.
The Multnoraack unites with the Columbia, through a
mouth 500 yards broad, in latitude 45° 20' ; from
whence the latter, which is here more than a mile wide,
after flowing about 100 miles, still widening in its pro-
gress, to a space of five miles, pours its multitude of
waters into the Pacific ocean, in the latitude of 46° 15'.
This river is navigable 200 miles from the ocean, with-
out any obstruction ; beyond that distance, are several
precipitous rapids : here it is one mile in width. Both
this river, and all its tributaries, are most abundantly
supplied with salmon, and various other kinds of fish.
About 100 miles from the sea coast, a ridge of moun-
tains extends parallel therewith, on each side of the
Columbia, north and south, for several hundred miles ;
and between this ridge and the Rocky mountains, the
country is extremely broken and hilly, but occasionally
interspersed with beautiful rich valleys j a large portion
COLUMBIA RIVER. 305
of the whole surface being almost destitute of wood.
Here are many fine streams of water, and much of the
country is well adapted to the raising of cattle and
sheep. Of the latter a species running wild in the Moods
are sometimes found with fleeces of beautiful fine wool.
In many places clover, timothy, flax, currants and straw-
berries grow spontaneously.
Columbia valley, west of the lowest rapids, is said to
be many miles wide, and 70 miles in length. It is leprc-
sented as very beautiful, possessing a rich soil, and
much of it shaded by fine groves of timber. Th6 cli-
mate on the sea coast is stated to be incommoded with
excess of moisture in the atmosphere, and drenching
rains, throagh the winter season. Fartlier to the east,
the climate is pleasant, being much milder than the same
parallel of latitude on the shores of the Atlantic.
The Indians are extremely numerous on the waters of
the Columbia, being supposed to amount to nearly
100,000.
BbS
CO^XLUSION.
In a geographical description of that immense region,
which engrossed our attention, so vast and multifarious
were the objects of our pursuit, that although we have
extended our excursions and enquiries widely and va-
riously, often with particularity, we have been compelled
to borrow light from guides, who traversed the country
before us. Where our materials for completing the work
seemed deficient, we have had recourse for information,
to the travels of Lewis and Clark, Brackenridge's View
of Louisiana, Pike's Journal, Drake's Pieture of Cincin-
nati, Kilbourn's Ohio Gazetteer, Darby's Emigrant's
Guide, and Worcester's United States' Gazetteer, —
beside some other publications of less notoriety.
Our aim has been, diligence in I'esearch, and fidelity
in description. But we have not attempted what was
not possible to accomplish, — preicise geographical de-
tails of the unfrequented parts of the country ; which
notwithstanding the labours of many ingenious men, re-
main, as yet, but imperfectly known.
CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS.
Page 5, line 13, for easleivi, read ■western.
6, — 7, for ivestiL'ard, read eastward.
20, — 9 from bottom, omit as.
i 60, bottom line, after each, add, sovereign state forms a kind of
bai'rier to the powerful influence of a popular, in-
triguing demagogue, which seldopa extends beyond
the limits of his own state.
3, for compendious, read comJrrehensivS.
4 from bottom, for -west, i-ead east.
14 between theij and are, add not.
12 — — between or a.iid salutary, insert to lie.
64, line
-137,
-lb.
■ 214, bottom line, after bordering- on, add tlie Gulf coast.
PUBLIC ROADS.
From Eastport, in the District of Maine, to Astoria, at
the mouth of Columbia river, on the Pacific ocean, by
Portland, Hartford, JSTew-Haven, JSTew-York, Philadel-
phia, Baltimore, Washington, Frankfort, K. Louisville,
Vincennes, Ind. St. Louis, by the river Missouri.
Eastport ferry.
Me. 4
North Yarmouth
/
Dennysville
IS
Portland 12
total 272
East falls of Machias 23
Saco
15
Machias 6
total 46
K^ennebunk
10
Jonesboro
9
York
18
Columbia
9
Portsmouth, N. li. 9 tot. 324
Steuben £0
total 84
Greenland
5
Goldsboro
9
Hampton
7
Sullivan
7
Meriraack bridge
9 tot. 345
Trenton
6
Newburyport, IVl
s. 3
Ellsworth 6
total 112
Rowley 8
total 356
Surry
6
Ipswich
4
Blue hill
8
Hamilton
4
Buckstown 17
total 143
Windham
2
Prospect landing 12
Beverly
4
Belfast 6
total 161
Salem 2
total 372
Northport
6
luynn
5
Canaan
5
Charleston
8
Camden
6
Boston 1
total 386
Thomaston
10
Roxbiiry
2
Warren 5
total 194
Newton
6
Waldoboro
Framingham
11
Newcastle
12
Westborough
11
Alna
6
Worcester 9
total 425
Wiscasset 5
total 224
Charlton, Ct.
13
Woolwich
8
Sturbridge
6
Batli 3
total 237
Staffbrdpool
15
Brunswiek
7
Tolland
7
Freeport
9
East Hartford 14 total 480
309
West Hartford
3
Berlin
10
Meriden
7
Hevv-Haven
17
Milford
10
Stratford 4
total 531
Bridgeport
4
Fairfield
4
Saugatuck
6
Norwalk
3
Stanford 9
total 557
Greenwich
5
Rye, N. Y.
5
New-Rochelle
8
West Farms
7
Harlem
4
New- York 8
total 594
Newark, N. J.
10
Elizabethtown
6
Bridgetown
5
Woodbridge
4
N. Brunswick 10 total 629
Princeton
18
Trenton
10
Bristol
10
Holmsburg, Pa.
10
Frankford
6
Philadelphia 4
total 687
Darby
7^
Chester
7
Naman's creek
5
Wilmington,D. ',
^§tot.714i
Newport, Md.
4
Christina
5
Elkton
11
Havre de Grace
17
Hartford
11
Joppa cross roads 6
Baltimore 14
total 782
Bridge overPetapsco river 4
Vansville
21
Bladensburgh
8
Washington, Ca. 6 total 821
Georgetown
2
Montgomery c.h
. Md. 12
Clarksburg'
13
Frederickstown
15
Middletown
9
Boonsborough
6
Hagerstown, Pa. 12 tot. 890
Messersburg
16
M'Connelsburg
10
Crossing of Juniatta 14
Bloody Run
6
Bedford 8
total 944
Byon's, foot of Allegany 23
Somerset
16
Green sburg
35
Pittsburg
35
Cannon sburg
18
Washington
8
Wheeling, V. 32 total 1106
St. Clairsville, 0. 11
Morristown
10
Washington 24
total 1151
Cambridge
Zanesville
10
25
New-Lancaster
36
Tarlton
18
Chillicothe 16
total 1256
Bainbridge
19
West Union
38
Ohio river
16
Maysville, K, 1
total 1330
Washington
4
Blue Licks
20
Paris
21
Lexington 22
total 1397
Frankfort
24
Shelbyville
19
Middleton
20
Louisville,0.fallsl2 to.l472
JefFersonville, Ind. 2
Knobs 5
total 1479
310
Beech creek 7
Indian creek 6
Blue river ^, 12
Sullivan's S^ngs 17
Little Blue river S
Big Lick 8
Petokal creek 9
Mud-holes 10
Muddy creek 10
White oak Springs 8
White river 6
Vincennes 16 total 1590
Embarras river, II. 10|
Higgin's 10^
Delong's 12
^'Sfu^^u'%P*^®? 1636
Wabash, 13 5
Ruddyford's 20
Brimberry'8 17
Piles's 20
Carlisle 26
Cahokia 50
St.Louis,Mo.T.3| tot.l772|
St. Charles
Charette
Gasconade
Lead Mine Hill
Saline riv^r
Good-woman river
Mine river
Charlton river
20
46
32
20
20
8
7
24
Old fort Oileans, 15 to.l964
Grand river ^ 4
Coal bank ' 85
Blue water river 9
Kansas river 8
Little Plate river 9
Nodavva river 100
Wolf river 14
Big Nemaka river 15
Little Nemaka river 33
BigPlate river 87 total 2328
Maha village (Indians) 235
Big Sioux river 17
Jaques or James river 97
Calumet Bluff 10
Ancient fortification 17
total 2704
Penca river and village 22
White river 122
Teton river 133
Chayenne river 46
Weta Boo river 111
! Cannon ball river 76
I FortMandan, 101 total 3315
I Little Missouri 91
Yellow Stone river 189
total 3595
Mathers r^yer 61
Porcupine river 50
, Little Dry river 53
1 Milk river 44
Big river 25
Brallons river 97
Muscle-hill river 56
Judith river 171
Slaughter river 25
St.Mary'sriver68,total 4245
Snow river 17
Shield river 28
Portage river 7
Great falls 6
Head of falls 12, total 4315
Chippewan mouniains 31
Head sources of Missouri64
total 4410
It is ^ot more than a
mile from the head
spring of Missouri
to the head of one of
the branches of the
Columbia.
South branch of Columbia76
total 4486
\
311
-Foot of the great range > , ^
mountains, east side 5
Foot of the Rocky > \.„q
mountains, west side 3
Flat-head Indian village 3
total 4631
Kookooske river 18
Canoe camp, Forks of ? g
Columbia 3
Kimoo-enem 60
North branch of the "J
freat Columbia or J* 140
<ewis's river J
total 4855
Month of Snake river 162
Great falls of C olumbia 6
Qjital 5023
Short Narrows 3
Long do. 4
Mouth of Cataract river 23
Grand Schute,last rapids 42
Sti'awberry Islands 6
Mouth Quicksand river 26
Shallow bay(salt water) 136
total 5265
Here the tide rises from
two to three feet.
Blustry Point 13
Columbia Bay 3
Clinkook river 12
Astoria, on Pacific ocean 13
total 5304
Columbia river enters the
Pacific ocean in Iat.46° 19'
N. and long. 47° 57' W.
according to observations
taken on the spot by Lewis
and Clarke. Eastport, in
the District of Maine, is in
lat. 44° 54' N. long. 10° 40'
East.
From Quebec, Lower Canada, to J^ew-Orleans, by
Montreal, through Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron and
Michigan ; thence up the Chicago, and over the Portage
to, and down the river Plein, a head branch of the Illi-
nois, and down the latter to the Mississippi.
Montreal, L. C.
Kingston, U. C.
Across lake Ontario >
to Fort Niagara 3
Falls of Niagara
Lake Erie
Head of the Lake
Detroit river
Lake St. Clair
Lake Huron
Across lake Huron }
to Fort Mackinaw 3
175
180
190
• 8
22
280
27
39
40
166
Mackinaw straits 37
total 1164
Across lake Michi->
fan to FortDearborn 3
Fp Chicago river,Ind.
Over the Portage &'^
up the Plein to the t
junction with the [
Theakiki, the main C
head branches of
the Illinois
total 1460
270
lOi
15f
313
6
12
1928
24
40
18
11
N. E. corner of Bounty "]
Lands, town. 15 N. 1 60
range 10 E. J
Lake Peoria|Fo.rt Clarke 70
total 1590
Spoon river 65
Mouth of Crooked creek 55
Macopen creek 85
Mouth of Illinois GO
total 1825
St. Louis 45 tatal 1870
Mouth of Maramack 20
Harrison
Herculaneum
Fort Chartres
St. Genevieve 12 tot
Ka*kaskia river, II.
Apple creek
Cape Girardeau
Great Rocky Bluff
Mouth of OMo 28 tot. 2049
Iron Banks 28
N. boundary of Tenn. SO
New-Madrid 12 total 2119
First Bluff 70
Second Bluff 12
Third Bluff 23
Fort Pickering SO
Council island S2
St. Francis river 28
Horseshoe bend SO
Three islands 12
White river S6
Arkansaw 14 total 2405
N. boundary Louisiana 101
Starks island
Entrance of lake Pro
vidence
Yazoo mouth
Walnut Hills
Warren
Palmyra bend 8 '
Lov/er end of do. 20
Big Black 13 total 2657
Bayou Pierre 12
Petite Gulf 9
Coles creek 13
Fairchild's island 7
Efllux Bayou 3
Mouth of Shillings 1
Natchez 5 total 2727
White Cliffs 11
Mouth of Homochitta 40
Mouth of Buffalo river 9
Fort Adams 2 "**
Mouth of Red river 18
total 2807
Atchafajl^ 3
Three sisfer islands 9
Bayou Tomica 28
Ponit Coupee church 31
Mouth of Homer's creek 7
Patoris and Lilly's island 8
Gen. Wicoff's 10
Baton Rouge 8
Efflux of Iberville 13
Efflux of Plaquemine • 8
Church of St. Gabriel 10
total 2942
Donaldsonville 26
Gen. Hampton's 6
Bringre's 4
Contrelles two Churches 8
Fontine's 12
Bonnel quarry Church 14
Bonnel quarry poiut 5
Red church, German >
coast 5
total 3031
Kenner's 6
M'Carty's 8
-New-Orleans 6 total 3051
14
FINIS.
\
.^•(sCS^
«
7
. -.-j-^inra'"
(}J^!^
^ f
Jl-
\
\
'e
f
\y •
^jl!Lll^:^<
y
TVNews
OpenLibrary