and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very
tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop,
this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the
contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loop
into two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which
is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to
draw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened
by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. For
the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position,
but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton
over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second
and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at
the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger
from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over
the fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the
left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one
stitch_.
_The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting._
When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the
loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last,
and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should be
held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.
_The Way to Make a Purl._
A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting,
as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion
No. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--The
stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl
is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. This
space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then
the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches,
and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is left
between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number.
Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be
all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purl
can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take the
tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the
left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of
stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin
before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once
close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the
stitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the
stitches are completed and joined together.
_Joining the Work._
Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the
hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through
it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to
the stitches.
A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work,
and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread we
should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute
any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use this
straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different
colours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel
instead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight
thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in
the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the
foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle.
* * * * *
TATTING.
1.--_Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting._
[Illustration: I.--Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.]
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 80, or
tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small shuttle.
This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1st
circle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1
double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1
double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8
times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double,
1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up.
5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double,
1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton.
6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1
double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1
purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2
double, draw up the cotton. This completes the star pattern in centre of
pine.
1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, draw
up the cotton.
2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double,
join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3
double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star.
3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1
purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centre
purl of 2nd circle in star.
4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1
purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it
to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star.
5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1
double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5th
circle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circle
in star.
8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl,1
double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centre
purl of 5th circle in star.
9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1
purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. Repeat the 9th circle 3
times.
13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12th
circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn the
work downwards, and work the
14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the
1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pine
circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1
double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton.
16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1
double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton.
17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1
double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1
double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat from
commencement until the collar is the required size. The upper part of
the pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in our
illustration.
* * * * *
2.--_Tatted Insertion._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30, or
Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large shuttle.
[Illustration: 2.--Tatted Insertion.]
This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl,
2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton,
turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as that
above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between each
circle.
* * * * *
3.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
edging, No. 18.
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
purl, 10 double; draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
[Illustration: 3.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up.
The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
next oval be close to the last.
Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double into
the purl in double thread. Repeat.
* * * * *
4.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
edging, No. 18.
[Illustration: 4.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
double thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
purl, 10 double stitches, draw up.
2nd oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; draw
up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread to
the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. Then do another
similar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1
purl, 12 double.
3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that to
which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up.
4th oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval,
10 double, draw up.
The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton,
working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1
double into the next purl. Repeat.
* * * * *
5.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or
crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle.
[Illustration: 5.--Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.]
Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and
1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4
double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for the
smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning the
first double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this oval
and the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between each
oval; join together the larger ovals by the purl.
For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:--
1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The 2nd and
3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above the
other, and divided by one chain. While working the short treble stitches
of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:--
* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let the
loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the under
stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double in
the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1
stitch, and repeat from *.
* * * * *
6.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20, or
tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size use Boar's
Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20.
[Illustration: 6.--Border in Tatting with Crochet.]
4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl,
4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a space
about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval and
the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl of
preceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl,
then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval
* * * * *
7.--_Tatted Insertion._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet cotton No.
18; tatting-pin No. 3.
This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists of
a row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged on
either side with chain stitches. Work first * 2 double, 4 purl divided
by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10
double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1
purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to this
a second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton
with which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but
henceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the
middle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl.
When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side
with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5
chain between.
[Illustration: 7.--Tatted Insertion.]
* * * * *
8.--_Rosette in Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3.
This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain,
5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards,
10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms one
loop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double,
fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formed
downwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining the
figures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted
together.
[Illustration: 8.--Rosette in Tatting.]
* * * * *
9.--_Star in Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 9.--Star in Tatting.]
Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and
1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purl
loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double,
join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse the
work. Join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straight
thread, commence the scallop:--
5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same as
first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed.
* * * * *
10.--_Insertion worked in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 10.--Insertion worked in Tatting.]
This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with the cotton
in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends of cotton are
fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First work one half of the
insertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1
plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double,
1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards;
then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6
double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of
the stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned
upwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in
right hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6
double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned
downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;
turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turn
work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turned
up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of sufficient length, work the
other half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means of
purl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated.
* * * * *
11.--_Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 11.--Tatted Insertion.]
This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lie
opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. A
coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join the
patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1
purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. When the 3rd branch
is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch.
Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the
2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st.* Fasten
the 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finished
pattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern;
in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working the
purl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of
the preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seen
in illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently
long.
* * * * *
12.--_Circle in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 12.--Circle in Tatting.]
Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided
one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals
are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is
tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working
is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is
then fastened off nearly underneath.
Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should
be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl
in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which
joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about
one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5
purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A very
little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double
stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the
centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as
before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by
2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_,
because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the
corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch,
and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied
tightly together.
* * * * *
13.--_Tatted Border with Beads_.
Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter
Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of
beads No. 4 to the yard of border.
[Illustration: 13.--Tatted Border with Beads.]
This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse
silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before
beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of
purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches.
When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil
leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These
trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together.
* * * * *
14.--_Insertion in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or
20.
[Illustration: 14.--Insertion in Tatting.]
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
purl, 10 double, draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to
the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.
Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.
For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion,
the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working--
1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and
second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Double
thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one
connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10
double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which
connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.
Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of
double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a
pretty wide edging.
* * * * *
15.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and
crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and
treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a
circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is
repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead
of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last
purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must
be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double
stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches
depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round
the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of
treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1
stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following
rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are
joinele of one figure on to the corresponding
circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked
when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places
between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the
side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of
the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the
stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their
natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the
wrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine
crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.
* * * * *
24.--_Insertion in Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
tatting-pin No. 3.
Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each
composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are
worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and
united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined
together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either
side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 24.--Insertion in Tatting.]
* * * * *
25.--_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or
crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.
This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size,
and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may
be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette.
The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle,
consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4
double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten
the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning
close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st
shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the
place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till
you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is
closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and
last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are
knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on
the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round,
take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only
work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The
2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the
preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same
manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette
quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the
cotton well after each round.
[Illustration: 25.--Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.]
* * * * *
26.--_Tatted Lace_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 26.--Tatted Lace.]
This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were
slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop
consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled
stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and
last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar
scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops
fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working
the 1st purl.
* * * * *
27.--_Tatted Lace_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 27.--Tatted Lace.]
This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace
Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1
purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the
cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same
row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double
divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next
purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. *
Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned
downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the
straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop
like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first
row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with
the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long
enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the
cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make
9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row
is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the
cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a
loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up
the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to
the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer
scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton
over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from
*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together
again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops
upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl
which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2
double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the
next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.
* * * * *
28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
cotton No. 60; square netting.
[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting]
The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a
mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented
round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of
netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards
and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row
has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with
the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and
decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently
long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form
the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each,
cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on
the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch
between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short
distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the
preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double
overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work
this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on
the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also
a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the
row of overcast stitches.
* * * * *
29.--_Mignardise and Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; fine
mignardise braid.
[Illustration: 29.--Mignardise and Tatting.]
Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and
look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the following
process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1
purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one
side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an
inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short
distance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion is
sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the
mignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, and
nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and
tatting.
* * * * *
30.--_Linen Bag for Cotton_.
Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
tatting cotton No. 40.
[Illustration: 30.--Linen Bag for Cotton.]
The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for
working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches
across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It is
drawn together at top.
* * * * *
31.--_Tatting Insertion_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similar
halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3
double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a
second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of
the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked
circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two
rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round the
pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10
double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle
alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding
as in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed,
work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the
purl.
[Illustration: 31.--Tatting Insertion.]
* * * * *
32.--_Tatting Insertion_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
[Illustration: 32.--Tatting Insertion.]
The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 is
obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9
double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *.
After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of
the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through
the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl
of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2
double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up.
After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle:
4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3
double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2
double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the pattern
for the length of insertion required. The threads which join the small
circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above,
only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of
a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion from
illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the
other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the
cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join
the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the
large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
opposite outer edge.
* * * * *
33.--_Tatted Square or Diamond_.
Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys,
tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting
cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.
The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3
rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each
pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch
consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one
pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends
together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second
pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the
first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern,
which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work
2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 33.--Tatted Square.]
*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of
the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double,
draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl
of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short
distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle,
10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an
interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten
the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice
more from *, and continue to repeat from *.
* * * * *
34.--_Tatted Rosette_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
crochet cotton No. 60.
[Illustration: 34.--Tatted Rosette.]
This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with
very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one
circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch.
Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small
circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on
to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round:
Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the
preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl,
join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance
on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and
repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.
* * * * *
35.--_Rosette in Tatting_.
[Illustration: 35.--Rosette in Tatting.]
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3.
Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times
alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle
and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on
this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain,
fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is
completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7
times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the
shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a
purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1
purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second
round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the
same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
neatly.
* * * * *
36.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 36.--Diamond in Tatting.]
This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked
with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as
follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the
stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one
consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4
double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle
consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second
shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle,
throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand,
and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the
right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the
cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the
3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton
on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double,
then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4
double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the
circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5
double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double
worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles
form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have
been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4
leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is
fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work
first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner
patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner
pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding
purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join
the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to
which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the
next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more
circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle,
at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl
of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side
of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed,
draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other
side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.
* * * * *
37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
tatting-pin No. 1.
[Illustration: 37.--Tatting for Cap Crown.]
This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size
of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The
pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of
eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette
is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other,
consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the
cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins
the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double.
It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
together by means of the purl stitches.
* * * * *
38 _and_ 39.--_Cap in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
tatting-pin No. 1.
[Illustration: 38.--Cap in Tatting.]
This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all
round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap
is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow
velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace,
as can be seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38.]
* * * * *
No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4
rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from
each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl
divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is
fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead
of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row
must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of
six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9
double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the
1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as
follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6
purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace
so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the
purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl
divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the
next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double;
fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1
double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the
end of the lace.
* * * * *
40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.
[Illustration: 40.--Lace in Tatting and Crochet.]
The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the
tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must
be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl
divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5
double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2
double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl
5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but
instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the
preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from
* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet.
Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to
join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last
purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient
number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2
circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two
pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the
top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row
consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble.
Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches
divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of
the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble,
3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only
so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is
completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble
divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are
cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3
chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which
you must join the last purl and the first one of then between the next two circles of the 3rd
row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of
single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl
divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain
tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come
opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next
circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5
stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double
fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl
divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain
stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the
3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the
corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the
border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by
working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st
row, with 5 chain stitches between.
2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every
treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or
oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is
seen in illustration.
* * * * *
45.--_Tatted Rosette._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for
large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.
This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps,
handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4
rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then
fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked
close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot
the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the
smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the
circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest
round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to
another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double,
1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls
of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the
rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and
work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double,
1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times
more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle,
fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the
cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds,
fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding
round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1
[Illustration: 45.--Tatted Rosette.]
purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on
which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all
the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the
last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5
double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of
the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but
in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to
the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is
sewn on.
* * * * *
46.--_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c._
Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 46.--Linen Bag for Tatting, &c.]
This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being
soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top.
Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original
pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the
top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and
small circles.
* * * * *
47.--_Tatted Border._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 47.--Tatted Border.]
Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following
manner:--
1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double;
draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very
short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working
the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding
one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than
that in the middle.
For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with
the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the
right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of
the left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle
consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the
cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round
the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then
take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle
purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the
purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through
this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of
the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on
the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *.
The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the
following manner:--
1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row
of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.
2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3
chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row
under it; repeat from *.
* * * * *
48.--_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting._
Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton
No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes,
crochet cotton No. 4.
This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming
for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for
the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the
rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de
minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole
stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with
crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting
of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the
button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work
1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles
fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1
round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet
circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1
round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch
between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these
stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies
upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting
of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat
from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble
stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one
another at the place of the 1st purl.
[Illustration: 48.--Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.]
* * * * *
49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 49.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commd another thread round the thread between the loops,
turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the
crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain
of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch
but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following
7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2
treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the
other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3
double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf
with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch
of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this
last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the
purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double
stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles
and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is
worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of
chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of
treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely
in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the
loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3
chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1
under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened
on the border, as seen in illustration.
* * * * *
53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.
[Illustration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.]
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1
purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.
2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1
purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.
3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to
next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw
up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl
of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the
back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.
The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework,
using fine sewing-cotton.
Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for
the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.
* * * * *
54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100,
tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.
This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very
effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for
each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third
leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of
the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over
which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of
stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one
of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the
centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one
from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the
same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut
the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each
composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form
one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from
the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened
to one purl of the row of
[Illustration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the
collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold
in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the
space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle
composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2
double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and
work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed
of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double
stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over
it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double
stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last)
of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to
the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see
illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double
stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3
double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches,
3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the
cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4
double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a
crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No.
49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see
illustration No. 54.
* * * * *
55.--_Tatted Collar_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
tatting-pin No. 1.
This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four
branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to
one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are
worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1
purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar
leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl,
fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this,
instead of
[Illustration: 55.--Tatted Collar.]
working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl
of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot
both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar
patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the
preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last
branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by
the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by
fastening these circles from illustration between four branched
patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the
corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double,
fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the
circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace
stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole
stitches.
* * * * *
56.--_Tatted Collar_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
tatting-pin No. 3.
This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the
following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton
into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double,
draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the
first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2
double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the
centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double,
1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3
double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each
circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times,
joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the
preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw
the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles
described in 2nd oval.
[Illustration: 56.--Tatted Collar.]
* * * * *
57.--_Circle in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 57.--Circle in Tatting.]
This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for
ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is
commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw
the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double,
* 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the
cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle.
Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3
double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle.
The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.
* * * * *
58.--_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for
cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats;
tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the
cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which
incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with
the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of
3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then
work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only
work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl,
fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the
other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next
circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4
double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9
double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the
preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead
of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer
between the larger circles. Then work a circle
[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.]
as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1
purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double
instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton,
15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following
circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15.
Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double,
17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more
like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the
middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round
closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton
together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round
this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of
graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to
the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double,
1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner,
only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the
circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the
number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following
circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the
round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the
centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated
size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns
work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times
alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be
close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is
then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of
the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6
double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and
the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked
in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but
the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In
the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl,
8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these
last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as
to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened
in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen
in the illustration.
* * * * *
59.--_Tatted Diamond_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80
if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.]
This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine
tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6
double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short
distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on
to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on
to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn
the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times
more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration.
Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole
stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in
illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the
diamond are knotted together.
* * * * *
60.--_Tatted Cravat End_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.
This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted
medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine
cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the
centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the
rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of
both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting
of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to
this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the
other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the
scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to
the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is
joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times
more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on
to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place
where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the
rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on
the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have
been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the
[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.]
preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without
the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as
follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as
follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle
only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long,
8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton
on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of
the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop
another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first
circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop
like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the
scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double
stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut
them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the
circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the
circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half
are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The
completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the
different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be
wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The
medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining
border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of
knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of
the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between
two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace
knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make
another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2
double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has
been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in
illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the
cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and
repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin.
* * * * *
61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No.
40 if desired in a larger size.
[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It is
worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a
tatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle,
consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one,
consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle,
5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from
* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which
the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last
(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the
1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the
same purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the
outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches.
* * * * *
62.--_Cravat End in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 62.--Cravat End in Tatting.]
The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middle
row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left
side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of
the middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small
purl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turned
downwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a
circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times
alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double.
*Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work
close to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of
the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that the
circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1
circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1
Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side
row. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circle
of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row.
Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle
of the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of
the side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of
the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row
of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time
with those of the middle row.
The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen in
illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened
like those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all round
with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those of
the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the
illustration.
* * * * *
63.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or 40
if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 63.--Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged
round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is
worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circle
consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole
stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turn
the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short
distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1
purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knot
consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last large
circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large
and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in
illustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre is
likewise done from the illustration.
64.--_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80.
[Illustration: 64.--Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting.]
The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting,
edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat.
But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look
very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting,
and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen
stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread.
The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch
round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and
the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton.
Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle
consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1
purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground
where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the
first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last
purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same
stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting
of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4
double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted
stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from
#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the
square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the
illustration.
* * * * *
65.--_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5.)
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 30, or
tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20;
tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.
The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of
the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with the
five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following
round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3
double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at
a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however,
instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the
last purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the
first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1
purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short
distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the
five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the
purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms
the centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to
each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallops
round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl
which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one
scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2
double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, work
eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from
illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join
them on to the middle rosette.
The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as
follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows
of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest
circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1
purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4
double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like
the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the
place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small
circle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circles
just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle;
then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller
circles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the
second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must
here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be
fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was
done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of
the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1
purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, join
them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this
circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. The
small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily
worked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in
the course of the work.
* * * * *
TATTING COTTON
Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all sizes from
20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is sold
in all sizes from to 120.
The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either
tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100
yards:--
|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
| | Tatting. | Crochet. |
|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
| Petticoat Edgings and | | |
| Insertions | 20 | 0 and 12 |
| Night Dress Trimmings | 40 | 60 |
| Lingerie Trimming | 50 | 70 |
| Collars and Cravats | 50 | 70 |
| Pocket Handkerchiefs | 100 | 120 |
| Parasol Covers | 100 | 120 |
| Antimacassars | 20, 30 | 0 and 20 |
| Pincushions | 60 | 80 |
| Caps | 100 | 120 |
| Lace | 60, 80, 100 | 80, 100, 120 |
| Insertions | 20, 40, 80 | 40, 80, 100 |
|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to have
some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work.
The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is
found to be two yards to the square inch with a single The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the
regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of
needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as
bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or
wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never
move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work
must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes,
imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work
patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of
foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the
purl foundation chain.
The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.
[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with
which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for
knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The
crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of
the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the
cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton
from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and
draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast
off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the
cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has
acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made,
take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left
hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of
the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.
[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain
stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st
chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the
cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the
needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last
stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
chain is long enough.
[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch,
then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert
the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain
stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch,
wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the
cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding
the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle,
and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain
stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following
crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they
are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make
a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216),
and take it on the needle.
[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part
of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the
back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the
needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The
illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left
quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be
inserted for the next stitch.
[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the
preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a
stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two
loops on the needle.
[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the
preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the
following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of
the preceding row.
[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards
and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together,
which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part
of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is
not worked, however, in the following row.
[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is
worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the
needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in
the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as
a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.
[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223
on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two
upper sides of a stitch.
[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.]
Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round
the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton
out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off
together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round
the needle.
[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has
been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble
stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the
preceding row.
ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble
stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double
long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three
times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the
needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The
two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the
cotton round the needle.
[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this
stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of
the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble,
insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross
treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the
cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and
cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop
formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the
needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the
needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the
2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the
third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2
loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain
stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting,
work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of
foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown
by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
stitch.
[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots
are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of
the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being
placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double
stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as
follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of
the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only
completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble
stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed
as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there
remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see
illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot
the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at
intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.
[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double
crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of
5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5
stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle
between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5
treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1
stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely
without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth
treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the
cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
spot.
[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches
divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they
are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).
[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long
treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown
across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the
same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch
of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row
in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the
treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.
[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace
edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain
length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in
the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see
illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a
loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.
[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7
chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch
downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see
illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton
through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3,
missing 3 stitches under it.
[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches
form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain
stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper
chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through
the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle
and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl
stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.
* * * * *
CROCHET PATTERNS.
239.--_Small Crochet Basket_.
Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of
pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.
[Illustration: 239.--Small Crochet Basket.]
For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3
chain, and repeat three times more.
2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long
into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place,
make 3 chain, and repeat.
3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last
round.
4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by
working twice into it.
5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.
For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long
stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.
2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1
chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch
between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and
1 chain stitch alternately.
3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into
each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way,
then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in
length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over
wire.
* * * * *
240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and
steel crochet needle.
This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing
dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these
large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in
the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No.
240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.
For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a
circle.
1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain
stitches.
2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.
3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round:
[Illustration: 240.--Couvrette in Crochet.]
The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.
5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of
each loop.
6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing
in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of
the dahlia.
13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1
double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double
in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.
14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between.
18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next
loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain
between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large
circle is completed. Six of these are required.
[Illustration: 241.--Showing one of the small Circles full size of No.
240.]
For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a
round.
1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.
2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.
3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This
completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the
centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large
circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the
centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3
chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.
[Illustration: 242.--Showing one of the large Circles full size of No.
240.]
When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in
illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--
1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8
chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8
chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1
trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of
the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the
last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.
2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last
round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch.
Repeat from *.
3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.
5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and
3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.
6th round: The same as the 5th.
7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6
chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.
[Illustration: 243.--Border for Couvrette.]
* * * * *
244.--_Star in Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with
No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.
A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of
insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They
may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material
being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10,
they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.
[Illustration: 244.--Star in Crochet.]
The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and
join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long
treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain,
then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss
4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13
times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as
follows:--
1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7
chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat
from * 5 times more.
2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1
double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is
upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the
outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then
12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at
the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star
must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.
* * * * *
245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_.
Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse
twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and
strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left;
rings.
Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten
off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring
and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring,
and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work
over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the
rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in
the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in
the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab
with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate
colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to
the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join
the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the
second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring
to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one
opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the
other 5 in the same way.
[Illustration: 245.--Crochet Silk Bag.]
For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4
long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the
centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work
4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single
crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into
the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2
chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2
chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the
diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12
rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the
lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of
double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st
round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work
12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain
stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of
the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that
is remaining after working the crochet.
* * * * *
246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._
Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few
steel beads; and a steel clasp.
The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised
rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel
beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where
necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in
coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the
beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when
required.
[Illustration: 446.--Crochet Sovereign Purse.]
The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little
raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_
side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both
sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except
where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with
beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without
the least difficulty from the illustration.
* * * * *
247.--_Stars in Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.
This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according
to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.
Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st
stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch,
repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8
chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work
(without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the
centre.
1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a
purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2
stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18
chain.
2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between
over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double
over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2
double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the
last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the
leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the
second branch.
1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form
a circle.
[Illustration: 247.--Stars in Crochet.]
2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch
work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each
of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st
round.
3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in
double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between,
then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before
beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the
circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained;
cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the
branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--
1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl
under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to
the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a
slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1
slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times
more.
2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that
is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil
(thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1
double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4
chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from
*.
Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.
* * * * *
248.--_Crochet Purse over Rings._
Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize
coarse purse silk.
Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the
centre ring for the bottom of the purse.
[Illustration: 248.--Crochet Purse over Rings.]
Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring
and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round
the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished,
join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the
centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and
place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize
colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they
are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with
cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in
working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work
over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise.
For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a
stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the
8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds
of single open crochet.
6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately,
missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1
chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another
long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into
the next loop, repeat from *.
7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch
of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times
more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the
next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from
the beginning.
8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work
another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long
stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double
crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2
stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1
chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the
beginning.
9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double
crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the
beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at the
bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the
purse.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 249.--Crochet Brioche Cushion.]
249.--_Crochet Brioche Cushion_.
Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these
should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein
of white filoselle.
Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and
join it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool
5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it
through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the
next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same
way all round.
2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd
shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care
to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1
double, then 12 more, and so on.
3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.
4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.
5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.
6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.
7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double.
8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.
9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.
10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.
11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.
12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.
13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spots
being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in
double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up
the circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain part
of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot
in the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with
glazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom,
to make it stand firmer.
* * * * *
_250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette._
Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's
Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small
articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.
A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to
so many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats,
pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the
design.
[Illustration: 250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.]
Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last
row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle
in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain,
repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain
stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the
round.
2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in
each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet,
working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding
row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6
petals in all.
3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1
petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of
each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round.
4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5
chain between each petal.
5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.
6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, *
5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip
stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1
double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the
end of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.
For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration,
in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may be
required for the couvrette.
* * * * *
251.--_Crochet Lace_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40 or 60.
This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Make
a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in
double stitch.
2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under
it; repeat from *.
3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl
(each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long
treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double
in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in
the 4th stitch; repeat from *.
[Illustration: 251.--Crochet Lace.]
4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding
row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next
double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *.
5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3
double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next
3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and
5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough.
* * * * *
252.--_Crochet Border_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24,
or 40.
[Illustration: 252.--Crochet Border.]
This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to
the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a
trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can
be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficiently
long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3
chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.
2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble,
1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the
four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat
from *.
3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the
preceding row, 5 chain.
4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the
preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the
stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as
to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.
5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain
in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble,
all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a
clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a
slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure.
6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the
clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd
chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the
clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2
chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1
purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl,
2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the
middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 253.--Crochet Border.]
253--_Crochet Border_
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or
60, according to the article for which it is required.
On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in
each chain stitch.
2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches
of the preceding row.
3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the
middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.
4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each
treble, 3 chain between.
5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between.
6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain,
miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble
in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain,
miss 4; repeat from *.
8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in
the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain.
9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1
long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2
following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double
in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain
stitch; repeat from *.
10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1
purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1
double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2
chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding
row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *.
11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet
on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain,
and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the
chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double,
but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.
* * * * *
_254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet._
Material: Berlin wool in two colours.
[Illustration: 254.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet.]
The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round
couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They are
fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of
the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation
chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle,
and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double.
2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round,
inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11
times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain
of this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to
the end of the round.
3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
round; at the end of the round 4 chain.
4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round.
5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch,
inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th
round.
The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely
of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the
stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on
the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. The
middle part of the couvrette is then finished.
[Illustration: 255.--Pattern for Arm Chair Border.]
[Illustration: 256.--Border for Arm Chair (254).]
Illustration 257 shows it in full size.
7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under
them, 1 double.
8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
round.
9th round: 3 double in each scallop.
10th round, like the 5th;
11th round, like the 6th;
[Illustration: 257.--Couvrette for Arm Chair (254).]
12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th;
17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.
20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the
dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the
colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark
wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet
2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the
couvrette remains perfectly flat.
21st round: 1 double in every stitch.
The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th
rounds.
The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th
rounds.
The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Then
work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which are
worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 shows
a part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from it
with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding
round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off
the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with
the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this
round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double,
on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the
wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again
with the light wool.
Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3
rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette.
1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the
34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat
from *.
2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the
next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double
stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain.
3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. To
work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in
the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round.
4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round,
miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these
3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with
the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in
the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat
from *.
* * * * *
_258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or
60.
[Illustration: 258.--Crochet Insertion.]
These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend
upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in
illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficiently
long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch
in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the
next stitch but 3, repeat from *.
2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1
slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6
chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble
in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast
off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5
chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *.
4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the
1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of
the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.
6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in
the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.
7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd.
[Illustration: 259.--Crochet Insertion.]
The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun
in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked
too tight.
1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same
way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in
the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion which
imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting
with raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on a
sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross
treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under
them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.
2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1
double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.
3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch
scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustration
square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for
these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1
double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each
other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton.
[Illustration: 260.--Crochet Insertion.]
* * * * *
261.--_Crochet Lace_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
[Illustration: 261.--Crochet Lace.]
A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace.
Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3
chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long
loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in
the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and
continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been
drawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more
easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been
worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation
chain, and repeat from *.
1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1
slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *.
2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch
under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat
from *.
3rd row: Like the 1st.
4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain,
missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *.
5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1
double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5
chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *.
6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows.
10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble
(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain
stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops
on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. This
stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over
the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once
through them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped
patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch
in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern
is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the
middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain,
1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop
11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are
worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and
in the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch,
leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch),
1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the
following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on
the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain,
1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain
stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3
chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.
* * * * *
CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.
262--_D'Oyley No_. 1.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.
Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1
double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.
Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5
long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *.
Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat.
Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
Round 7: The same as 6th.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more.
Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double
crochet, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain,
repeat.
Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1
double crochet, repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat.
Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat.
Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat.
Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat.
Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat.
Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.
No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1
double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double
long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice
more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In working
the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves
in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without
joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of
double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and
join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7
chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make
no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this
d'oyley.
No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each
side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.
No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in this
d'oyley.
[Illustration: 262.--D'Oyley No. 1.]
No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle
1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7
long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the
corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same as
the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into
the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain,
and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the
1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.
Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round.
Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop,
repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop.
Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long
stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5
chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
Round I: 28 double long into the circle.
Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round.
Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain,
repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into
the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat
from * to the end of the row.
2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain
into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and
work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat
from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of
11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work
the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the space
between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This
pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each.
Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat.
Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain,
repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10
double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat.
Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This pattern
is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double
crochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work
into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2
long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double
crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double
crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2
chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into
the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4
double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the
stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for
the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle,
repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each
loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3
points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each
point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet
into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. This
pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 14.--Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat
from * 4 more times.
Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the
7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1
of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern is
not repeated.
No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into
successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1
double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2
long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain,
repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9
chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4
remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2
double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the
same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches,
unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long,
repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work
another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single
crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the
leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops,
4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not
repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the
engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work
an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into
the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into
the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long
into the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of
the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain
from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the
2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd
5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the
last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th
pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9
chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the
1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet
into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1
double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double
crochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7
chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the
next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of
the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double
crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the
centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single
crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1
double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double
crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long
into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the
last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3
chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16
pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from
the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the
10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12
chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in
12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same
pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same
leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th
pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last,
10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single,
13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the
row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the
other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3
chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to
correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation,
repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain.
* * * * *
_263.--D'Oyley No. 2._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2
double crochet into each loop.
Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop.
Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop.
Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.
Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of
the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double
crochet, and repeat.
Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11
chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last
round, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops,
beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet into
the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21
double crochet into the 17 chain in last round.
[Illustration: 263.--D'Oyley No. 2.]
No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1
double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more.
Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.
Round 3: 2 long into each loop.
Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat.
Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4
chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.
Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point,
finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more.
No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite
it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive
loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop,
and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7
of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double
crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next,
1 into each of the next 6.
2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5
treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet.
Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of
the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into
each of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next
loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9
chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd
leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain,
and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of
the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain,
turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of
the 5 and 9 chain stitch.
No. 6.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7
chain, repeat.
Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2
double crochet, and repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11
chain, repeat.
Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3
more double crochet, repeat.
No. 7.--1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2
chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of
the row.
2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double
crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet,
2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to
correspond.
3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7
chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7
chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet,
4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
No. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of
the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain
to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.
No. 9.--The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of
6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for
this d'oyley.
No. 10.--Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these
will be required for this d'oyley.
No. 11.--Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be
repeated in this d'oyley.
No. 12.--The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley.
No. 13.--The same as No. 5.
No. 14.--The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.
No. 15.--The same as No. 10.
No. 16.--The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.
No. 17.--The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
No. 18.--The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the
edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4
chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf,
10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long
into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain,
1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5
chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th
pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9
chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long
into the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1
long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16
chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8
chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9
chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet,
9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double
crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into
the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join
of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same
pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th
pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6
chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet
into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the
last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3
chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th
pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6
chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1
double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double
crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the
centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain
from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd
3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain,
1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long
into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row:
The same edging as to 1st d'oyley.
* * * * *
264.--_D'Oyley No. 3._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in same
d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5,
2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern
from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in
1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3
in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No.
10.
Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of
12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double
crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to
correspond.
Round 2: 2 long into each loop.
Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain,
repeat.
Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5
chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double
crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5
long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain
between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2
chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2
chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6
chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and
7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the former
d'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write,
that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It
will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long
or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number
of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle
perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on
it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the
paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper.
[Illustration: 264.--D'Oyley No. 3.]
* * * * *
265.--_D'Oyley No. 4._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 pattern
from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6,
and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley,
and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2nd
d'oyley, and the following pattern.
No. 1.--Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double
crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double
long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double
crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double
crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet
into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next,
repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into
successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Next
round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2
loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point,
miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number.
No. 3.--Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1
chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4
chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3
times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side
to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7
long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double
crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single
crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain,
miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last
row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain,
repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long,
1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet,
1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn,
miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1
double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1
double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in
double crochet.
[Illustration: 165.--D'Oyley No. 4.]
No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the
circle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after
each. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round
4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3
chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4
double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain
to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double
long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down
the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of
8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the
round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the
same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as
before, finish with a stem of 8.
No. 5.--Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double
crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12
chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2
double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2
double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain,
miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5
long, 2 double crochet, repeat.
No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double
crochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round
3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1
long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 double
crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more
of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1
long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4
double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet,
4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all
these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and
work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.
* * * * *
266.--_D'Oyley No. 5._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more.
Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops,
1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat.
Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops,
repeat.
Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more.
Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double
crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st
round, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat.
Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain,
repeat.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat.
Round 6: Same as 4th.
Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat.
Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.
Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will
be required for this d'oyley.
[Illustration: 266.--D'Oyley No. 5.]
No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.
Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next,
repeat.
Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single
crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat.
Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each.
Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet
into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same
place, 1 chain, repeat.
No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more.
Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of
the 5 double crochet, repeat.
Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop,
1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet
into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Work
the other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will be
required for this d'oyley.
No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat.
Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double
crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into
successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4
more double crochet.
Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4
points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into
each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as
before.
No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more.
Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5
double crochet are done, repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat.
Round 4: Same as 2nd.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat.
Round 6: Same as 2nd.
Round 7: Same as 5th.
Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.
Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat.
Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four of
these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more.
Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet,
repeat.
Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work
2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4
chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of
double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with
3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
No. 8.--1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work
into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd
row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5
long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into
successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long
into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in
2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No
loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a
smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton.
No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss
1 loop, repeat.
Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat.
Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3
double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from
No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves
from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with
1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley.
When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving,
and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys.
* * * * *
267.--_D'Oyley No. 6_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat.
Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet.
Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet,
and repeat 5 times more.
Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11
chain, repeat.
Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop.
Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and
repeat.
Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat.
Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop.
Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double
crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work
1 double crochet, repeat.
Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1
double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4
times more, repeat from the beginning of the row.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle.
Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat.
Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain,
miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required for
this d'oyley.
[Illustration: 267.--D'Oyley No. 6.]
No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more.
Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single
crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double
crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row.
No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.
Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.
Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long
into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double
crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place,
repeat.
Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet
into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into
the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into
the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2
patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns
from No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st
d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns
from No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the
5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving,
and add the edging as before.
* * * * *
268.--_D'Oyley No. 7._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.
1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop.
2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop.
3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.
4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.
5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet
into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2
chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat.
7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13
chain, repeat.
8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a
chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.
2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then
work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice
into the end of each point.
3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4
chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a
long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and
end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of
double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into
successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the
last of the 3. This completes the pattern.
No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double
crochet into each loop.
2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next,
repeat.
3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into
the next, repeat.
4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2
loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *.
5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9
chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1
double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *.
7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the
15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into
the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *.
This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on the
plain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these
patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
[Illustration: 268.--D'Oyley No. 7.]
No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10
stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet,
3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the
16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single
crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side,
then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive
loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the
last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three
of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns
from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the same
d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley,
work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern
with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1
pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6
patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the
same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join these
pieces as before, and add the same edging.
* * * * *
269.--_D'Oyley No. 8_
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double
crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other
side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.
2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st
of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed at
the point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and
work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15
chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make
5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of
double crochet, repeat.
3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat.
Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley.
[Illustration: 269.--D'Oyley No. 8.]
No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochet
into each loop.
2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1
long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the
same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.
4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2
more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the
7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet
into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns
will be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
d'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3
leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern
from each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th
d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No.
6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from
No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley,
work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley,
then sew them together as before.
* * * * *
270.--_D'Oyley No. 9_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.
1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times
more.
2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop.
3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet
down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5
times more.
4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5
chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops,
work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3
loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.
5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long
stitches, and 1 double crochet.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double
crochet into the next, repeat.
2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet
into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double
crochet.
3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre
one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5
chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double
crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more.
4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the
last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain,
turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double
crochet, make 4 chain.
5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the
1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into
successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4
double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops,
make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then
work 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this
d'oyley.
[Illustration: 270.--D'Oyley No. 9.]
No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times
more.
2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work
another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work
1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat.
3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double
crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
next 1 chain, and repeat.
4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last
round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the
1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive
loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patterns
will be required for this d'oyley.
No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it,
make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25
stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet,
work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches of
double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single
crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work
3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop,
repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this
d'oyley.
No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the
other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into
the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end
loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into
the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15
into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1
single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round.
Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3
leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from
No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew
them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before.
* * * * *
271.--_D'Oyley No. 10_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10
double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain
stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work
a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3
chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3
chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain
stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then
work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make
1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work
1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3
chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work
1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1
long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1
double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long
stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16
chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double
crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st,
work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st,
work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st,
make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.
[Illustration: 271.--D'Oyley No. 10.]
No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of
double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five
times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2
stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5
chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the
5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5
times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5
stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of
single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down
the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in
the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from
No. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1
from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the
pieces together as before, and work the edging.
* * * * *
272 _and_ 273.--_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_.
Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small
glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.
This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for
many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk
over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon
form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must
be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and
when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the
beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the
bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this
first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches,
the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last
round over wire.
[Illustration: 273.--Bottom of Work Basket (272).]
It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work
flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket,
which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds.
It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without
increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds
increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a
little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to
the straws.
[Illustration: 272.--Work Basket in Straw and Crochet.]
The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle
with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle,
working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the
straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight
line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked
over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown
silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which
forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown
silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of
bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in
long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the
basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which
forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats,
ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.
* * * * *
274 _and_ 275.--_Two Crochet Borders_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80.
No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30
and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the
length required.
[Illustration: 274.--Crochet Border.]
1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain.
2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11
chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of
chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under
the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain.
Repeat from *.
4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1
treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1
chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border.
The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet.
5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1
double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each
stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5
chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1
double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points
repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last
point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in
2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.)
* * * * *
[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with
lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain
and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and
work the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch
between the 2 purl.
2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1
chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on.
The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the
chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make
12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double
in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points
over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble
in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from
* 6 times more.
In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop
to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed
fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread,
joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2
or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.
[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
* * * * *
276.--_Crochet Antimacassar_.
Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton
No. 10.
[Illustration: 276.--Crochet Antimacassar.]
This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and
is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4
stitches, and unite it.
1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work
another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat.
2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1
loop, and repeat.
3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7
chain, and repeat.
4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2
more double crochet, and repeat.
5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make
9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, *
make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5
chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1
chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1
long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and
repeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive
loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next
loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long
stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2
double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double
crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This
completes the circle. 120 le, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4
slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5
double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the
thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip
stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the
star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following
rows:--
1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3
chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of
the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4
placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1
treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.
2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3
stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *.
3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3
stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.
4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1
slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3
stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these
four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the
last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:--
1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next
purl. Repeat from *.
2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches.
4th row: Like the 2nd row.
5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4
chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *.
[Illustration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.]
* * * * *
284.--_Crochet Insertion_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a
double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches
as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting
of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next
stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of
scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the
foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5
chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl
stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers,
which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a
foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from
illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the
1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of
the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1
long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1
slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them,
1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists
of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row,
9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side
of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation,
inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times
more from *, and the flower is completed.
[Illustration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.]
* * * * *
285.--_Crochet Garter_.
Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white
elastic cord; a pearl button.
This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord;
the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.
[Illustration: 285.--Crochet Garter.]
Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the
elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over
it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed
in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the
beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you
come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain.
Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it
off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then
a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately
1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing
1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the
button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if
worked entirely in silk.
* * * * *
286.--_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle
to match.
This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old
guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves,
and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of
rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the
bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes
round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened
one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following
manner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round:
8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first
chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5
chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the
ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip
stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning,
which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned
as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd
round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2
double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette.
Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of
both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be
joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining
between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same
manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star
formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk.
For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the
centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl
that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7
times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of
these stars are required for each shoulder.
[Illustration: 286.--Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.]
For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and
sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of
the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain,
1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette,
4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette
(see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round
the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st
rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round
it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd
rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the
loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last
double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at
each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip
stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next
space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1
treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over
the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the
upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1
double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the
2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next
but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain,
1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of
the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of
crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that
the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.
* * * * *
KNITTING.
287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no
means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the
hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of
any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment.
Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and
Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this
industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of
Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present
ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following
instructions are offered.
To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton,
silk, or wool are required.
Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be
used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread,
cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the
needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see
No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker
and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and
foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German
needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest
English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with
two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three,
four, and five needles are employed.
[Illustration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.]
* * * * *
288.--_Casting On_.
This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting
stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by
"knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--
Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand,
throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass
the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass
it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch
(see No. 288).
[Illustration: 288.--Casting On.]
289.--_To Knit On_.
[Illustration: 289.--Knitting On.]
Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and
another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No.
289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger,
leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (The
wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate,
that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her
fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a
purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point
of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand
needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in
front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in
its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle.
290.--_Simple Knitting (plain)_.
[Illustration: 290.--Plain Knitting.]
Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle,
at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the
point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the
thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of
placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the
right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the
left-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken from
the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete.
291.--_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_.
Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_
instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch
as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be
brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the
thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291).
[Illustration: 291.--Purling.]
292.--_To Increase_.
Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round
the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.
[Illustration: 292.--Increasing.]
293.--_To Decrease_.
This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting
them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting
it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual
way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see
No. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed
thus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted
stitch over the two knitted together.
[Illustration: 293.--Decreasing.]
294.--_Round Knitting_.
To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that
stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. To knit with four
needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second
needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed
in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this
is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last;
this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round.
295.--_Casting Off_.
Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch
over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_.--The last
knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely.
296.--_To Pick up a Stitch_.
This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a
stitch with it.
* * * * *
The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety of
work:--
297.--_Peacock's Tail Pattern_.
Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton.
[Illustration: 297.--Peacock's Tail Pattern.]
Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine
stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which
is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row.
1_st Row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this
four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2
plain for border.
2_nd Row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat.
[Illustration: 298.--Spiral Stitch.]
3_rd Row_.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat.
4_th Row_.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat.
5_th Row_.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together.
Begin from the 1st row.
Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. These
stripes should be sewn together after all are finished.
* * * * *
298.--_Spiral Stitch_.
Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.
This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton.
It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes cast
on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the
first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly
knitted.
1_st Row_.--Purl 3 together to end of row.
2_nd Row_.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the
last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row.
* * * * *
[Illustration 299.--Knotted Stitch.]
299.--_Knotted Stitch_.
Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.
Cast on 11 stitches.
1_st Row_.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before
each stitch.
2_nd Row_.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of
wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off
the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves
but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is
obtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders.
* * * * *
300.--_Knitted Moss Borders_.
Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green.
Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, and
knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficient
length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip on a sieve over a
basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When it has absorbed the
steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. Then cut the strip down
the centre, and unravel the wool on each side. The threads of wool all
curling, resemble moss. They are held firmly by the selvedge of the
knitting.
* * * * *
301.--_German Brioche Stitch_
Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool.
Cast on an even number of stitches.
All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for purling,
make 1, take 2 together. In the following rows the made stitch must
always be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the
previous row knitted together.
[Illustration: 301.--German Brioche Stitch.]
Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of
stitches, and working the rows as follows:--
Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _Note_.--The made stitch and
the slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together,
and the decreased stitch of that row slipped.
* * * * *
NETTING.
302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest
accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effects
produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. One
great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and
independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it
does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work.
Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materials
required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302).
These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel.
The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for
silk, cotton, &c.
The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little
hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on
the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to
24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes of
the needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size of
the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large
hat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the
foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do
not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily
weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.
The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is
tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a
horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the
foundation fixed as before.
[Illustration 302.--Needle and Mesh.]
303.--_To Net_.
Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the
left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by
the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand,
pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass
the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the
thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch
or loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops on
the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to
release the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the
loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The
next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the
same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a
foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and
net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the
foundation is ready.
[Illustration: 303.--Netting.]
Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When a
piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the
little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out.
304.--_Square Netting_.
Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from
one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by
making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number of
stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two
stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains.
These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on.
305.--_Round Netting_
Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in the
way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305.
After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and
passed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effective
for purses.
[Illustration: 305.--Round Netting.]
306.--_Diamond Netting_
Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one
stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in
the same way, as described at page 303.
307.--_To Net Rounds_.
To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first
stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this
when required by the work.
308.--_"English" Netting_
Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by
netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by
one stitch and taking it up.
_3rd Row_.--Plain.
_4th Row_.--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row.
_5th Row_.--Plain.
[Illustration: 308.--"English" Netting.]
309.--_Lace Edging_.
Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as
many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. *
Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or
scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the
point, and begin from *.
310.--_Open Lace_.
This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and
extremely fine crochet cotton.
Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the
required length.
_4th Row_.--On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch.
_5th Row_.--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop;
repeat to end of row.
_6th Row_.--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end
of row.
[Illustration: 310.--Open Lace.]
_7th Row_.--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches,
pass over the 5th, repeat to end.
_8th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.
_9th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.
This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps,
children's hoods, &c.
311.--_Shell Border_.
This border is intended as an edging for square netting for
couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as
long as that employed for the square netting.
Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8,
make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used
for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take
a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of
one stitch in each stitch.
This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles
in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure
d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the
work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when
a little fulness is required.
[Illustration: 311.--Shell Border.]
* * * * *
KNITTING AND NETTING
PATTERNS
312.--_Knitted Sock for a Child._
Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow
pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.
This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins,
backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but
increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the
work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28
stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and
knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and
cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20
rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each
side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and
front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately,
then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as
follows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1
open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the
back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form
the toe.
[Illustration: 312.--Knitted Sock.]
* * * * *
313.--_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers,
Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel
knitting-needles of a corresponding size.
[Illustration: 313.--Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette
Covers, &c.]
According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square
makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If
worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the
first-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8
stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the
1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat
3 times more from *.
3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every
pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from
*.
4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1.
6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1.
8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1.
The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every
other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by
throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15
stitches are knitted between.
20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit
1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw
the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 1.
24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw
the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw
the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 1.
26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over
the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times
alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times
alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit
1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 1.
30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches
together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped
over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit
2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast
off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side.
* * * * *
314.--_Knitted Sleeping Sock._
Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light
blue fleecy.
[Illustration: 314.--Knitted Sleeping Sock.]
These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern,
and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast
on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles,
and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:--
1st round: Quite plain.
2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool.
3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool.
7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch
of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it
on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With blue
wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled
off together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds
twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the
preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2
stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond
pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by
leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards
and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the
decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by
knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd
needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and
draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same
manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings
exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are
always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the
beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain
rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches are
knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the
sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all
round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel.
The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in
blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.
* * * * *
_315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape._
Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and
meshes.
This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three
or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a
cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white,
the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, in
full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used.
For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches;
work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last
stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner
till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the
40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground is
completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-way
side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to
the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the
ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at
the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th,
14th, [Illustration: 315.--Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress.]
18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of
the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1
stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, on
the cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of the
edging or lace.
[Illustration: 316.--Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu.]
2nd round of the lace: In each stitch make 2 stitches--still on the
larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in
last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop.
Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds.
For the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop.
* * * * *
_317.--Lady's Knitted Purse._
Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto;
black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5
steel knitting-needles.
[Illustration: 317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.]
This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented
with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the black
silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7
stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner
that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st
stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On
that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain
of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a
separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the
1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches
of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be
hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is
completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another
needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st
part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge
stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the
beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row
from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all
the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the
next stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover,
excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after
casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by
inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk
which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so
that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row,
the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch.
When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on
the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in,
but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times
more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts
have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part
together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the
stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with
the selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be
worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th,
and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then
gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2
needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and
selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on
the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on
the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row
knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows
backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be
knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner,
casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the
remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration;
also the clasp and bead tassel.
* * * * *
318 to 320.--_Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover._
Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.
[Illustration: 318.--Square for Antimacassar.]
This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full
size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted
separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles.
In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The
edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For
each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows
backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one
side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the
first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five
selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side
where the end of wool hangs down, leaving itard, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.
8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13.
9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2
together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
forward in preceding row, purl 13.
13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.
16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice
alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.
20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row.
23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together,
knit 7.
24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently
long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted
somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief
is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn
through the knot.
* * * * *
_324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves._
Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk
elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.
This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so
that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other.
The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bone
buttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at
the bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast
on 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not
too loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going
to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch which
has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward,
slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the
25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before.
[Illustration: 324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).]
[Illustration: 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).]
Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as
the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted
and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. The
following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch,
only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work,
with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with
black wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in
the same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three
needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for
each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of
the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch;
the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown
forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gore
with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that a
purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Do
not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with
the one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and
then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes
behind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the
stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together
with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the
wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted
together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite
directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1
stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are
continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossing
takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped
first. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work in
common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins
before the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked in
purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between
two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch
which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the preceding
row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on the
other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other
front part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. The
crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the
knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the
gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so
that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches
only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the
neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the
front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck are
cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast off
loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the
front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black
wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong side
of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in
button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. The
following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles,
work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the
wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together,
draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on
the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons the
strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom,
and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle.
_326.--Baby's Boot._
Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool;
steel knitting-needles.
This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in
white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper
scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide
them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd
rounds: With red wool, purled.
3rd to 8th round: With white wool.
3rd round: Knitted.
4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool
forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.
5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are
knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3
stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing
of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be
decreased in this round.
6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.
8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted.
10th and 11th rounds: Purled.
12th to 30th round: With white wool.
12th round: Knitted.
13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the
needle in the back part of the stitch.
31st to 33rd round: With red wool.
31st round: Knitted.
32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in
the next round.
36th to 38th round: With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if
you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped
stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.
[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.]
Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches
untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th
row: With red wool.
48th row: Knitted.
49th row: Purled.
50th row: Knitted.
51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th
round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit
and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end
of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th
row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red
wool.
86th row: Knitted.
87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
2, knit 1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th,
decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of
stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing
them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in
rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round
purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in
the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other
round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9
stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the
decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form
slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part
is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red
stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4
rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside;
then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work
row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to
match.
* * * * *
327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton;
thick steel pins.
Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border,
which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
Then 5 more plain rows.
[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a
stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from
right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more
than from * to the end of the row.
2nd row: Purled.
3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
4th row: The same as the second.
The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The
increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated
in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions
increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other
hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain
this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows,
by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the
28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so
that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these
stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st
row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each
division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th
row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
* * * * *
328.--_Knitted Quilt._
Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.
This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in
that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may
be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one
row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that
is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide
strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern
was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is
knitted the short way.
[Illustration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.]
For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches.
2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4.
Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.
3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding
row, and purl all those that were made.
4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.
5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.
7th row: The same as the 5th.
8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.
9th row: The same as the 5th row.
10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.
11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.
13th row: The same as the 11th.
14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, purl 4, and repeat.
15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more;
knit 2 together, knit 2.
The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in
this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches
instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4
more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and
when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the
quilt all round with a knotted fringe.
* * * * *
329.--_Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps,
Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20, or
fine wool.
Cast on an uneven number of stitches.
1st row: Slip 1, *
make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *.
2nd row:
Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row.
[Illustration: 329.--Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &c.]
* * * * *
330 _and_ 331.--_Knitted Veil._
Material: Fine Shetland wool.
[Illustration: 330.--Knitted Veil.]
Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The original
was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with
a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work the
veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of
illustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting in
the course of the work, and try to keep them alike.
Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of
illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of the
veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1st
row: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat
from *.
2nd row: Purled.
3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the
wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *.
4th row: Purled.
5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The pattern
figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end
of each row.
The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1st
row: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2
together.
2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in
the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over
paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following
lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st.
2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.
3rd row: Knitted.
4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
knit 2 together twice, knit 4.
5th row: Knitted.
6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.
7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: Knitted.
[Illustration: 331. Pattern of Veil.]
[Illustration: 332.--Knitted Pattern with Embroidery.]
* * * * *
332.--_Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 20.
This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick
or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. The
star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in
_point de poste_. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches
are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11
stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this
row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with
the cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plain
square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. The
number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consists
alternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the
13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered with
double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square;
draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.
* * * * *
333 _and_ 334.--_Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578.)_
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick
steel knitting-needles.
[Illustration: 333.--Table-Cover Border.]
This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the
pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable for
antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the
1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
2nd round: Entirely knitted.
3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from
*. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21st
round, we shall not mention this any more.
5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the
7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase
by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between
those formed by throwing the cotton forward.
13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2
together *.
15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.
17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.
19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, *.
21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 *.
22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3
*.
23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 3 *.
24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.
25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
the cotton forward, knit 4.
26th round: Entirely knitted *.
27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1 *.
28th round: Entirely knitted.
29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 *.
30th round: Entirely knitted.
31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
forward, knit 3 *.
32nd round: Entirely knitted.
33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
forward, knit 4 *.
34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5
*.
35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
forward, knit 5 *.
36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6
*.
37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the
cotton forward, knit 1 *.
38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8
*.
39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 *.
40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.
41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the
cotton forward, knit 3 *.
42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4
*.
43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the
cotton forward, knit 4 *.
44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5
*.
When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following
border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row,
slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row.
3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2.
15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit a
sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the
outer edge.
[Illustration: 335.--Looped Knitting.]
* * * * *
335.--_Looped Knitting._
Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat
wooden mesh.
Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain.
2_nd Row_.--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch,
and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch;
place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool
which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so
that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Then
only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert
the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained.
Knit the last stitch without a loop.
3_rd Row_.--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one
plain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain
the same number of stitches as in the 1st row.
4_th Row_.--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required.
This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 336.--Pattern for Comforters.]
336.--_Knitted Pattern for Comforters._
Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.
Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.
1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit
3 stitches together, repeat from *.
2nd row: Plain knitting.
3rd row: Purled.
4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3
stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1
stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on
the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together.
* * * * *
337.--_Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579.)_
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36; glazed
embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.
This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle part
as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on
to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked in
afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, cast
on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds.
3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
4th and 5th rounds: Plain.
6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention these
plain rounds any more.
8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw
the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together.
12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together.
14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together.
16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together. The
18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only
the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in
every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th
round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by
throwing the cotton forward.
26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
together.
28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6,
throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.
34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.
36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
1, throw the cotton forward.
38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward.
40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit
1, throw the cotton forward.
42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the
cotton forward.
44th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
throw the cotton forward.
45th and 46th rounds: Plain, then cast off loosely.
For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards and
forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: Slip 1,
knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2 together.
2nd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 11.
3rd row: Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
forward, knit 1.
4th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 9.
5th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit
2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward,
knit 1.
6th row: Knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitch
formed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2,
knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10.
7th row: Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed by
throwing the cotton forward and the next stitch).
8th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12.
9th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2 together.
10th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
14.
11th row: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again on the 2nd row, and
work on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre,
slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work in the spots with glazed or
coarse embroidery cotton.
* * * * *
_338.--Knitted Braces_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 12.
These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the
braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted
plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain
of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then divide
the stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows on
each of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches
again on one needle and work 17 rows on them. Then work a second
button-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at
the end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the
lappet is 20.
Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--Knit
first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern
row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches
always as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5
times more from *; the last stitch is knitted.
2nd row of the pattern: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch which
has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is
slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knit
the last stitch.
3rd row: Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the
following rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it,
which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton
forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the last
stitch.
4th row: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has been
formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knit
the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough.
The pattern is 19 inches long. Then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at
the end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the
stitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72
rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for the
preceding one. Work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The
lappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole.
[Illustration: 338.--Knitted Braces.]
* * * * *
339.--_Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &c._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8.
This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according to
the thickness of the cotton used. The number of stitches must be
divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards and forwards.
[Illustration: 339.--Pattern for Knitted Curtains.]
1st row: All plain.
2nd row: * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. Repeat from *.
3rd row: Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, *
make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. Repeat
from *. (By _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle,
which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in next
row.)
4th row: Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. Repeat from *.
5th row: Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. Repeat
from*.
6th row: Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2,
knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (the
knitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. Repeat from *.
Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row;
the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (compare
the two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change the
places of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. This will be
easily understood in the course of the work.
* * * * *
_340.--Knitted Insertion._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 or 30.
Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, as
follows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit
2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18 times more; the stitch
formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
20th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitches
upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1,
knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3
stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with the
next stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20
rows till strip is long enough.
[Illustration: 340.--Knitted Insertion.]
* * * * *
341 _and_ 342.--_Knitted Cover for Sofa Cushion._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 12; eight
ply fleecy wool.
[Illustration: 341.--Stitch for Sofa Cover.]
This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; it
is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton.
The knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards and
forwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and which
must suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row:
Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch formed by throwing
the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
3rd row: Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. Repeat
from *; after the last decreasing knit 1.
4th row: Like the 2nd row.
These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. Draw
a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row of
the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. When the cushion has
been covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a border
knitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14
rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cotton
and red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the
bottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by
which the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The
cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for garden
chairs.
[Illustration: 342.--Sofa Cushion.]
* * * * *
343.--Netted Nightcap.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12.
This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring
three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centre
of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27
rows with the same number of stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this
square, and fasten the cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front
border, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge
of the cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in
95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each
string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in every
row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; the
remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed with
crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311.
[Illustration: 343.--Netted Nightcap.]
* * * * *
344.--_Netted Nightcap_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton, 3-thread, No.
30.
[Illustration: 344.--Netted Nightcap.]
This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two similar
three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle;
the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, and
fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap is edged with a lace; a
similar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. The pattern
is worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an
inch round. Begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work
backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row,
till the number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and
trim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)
with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--the
treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double,
always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treble
in the preceding row, or with netted edging No. 311.
* * * * *
345.--_Knitted Pattern_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 for
couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts.
This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable for
many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18,
for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
the cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *.
2nd row: The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as the
stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches are
knitted. This row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall not
mention it again.
3rd row: * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2.
5th row: Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6.
7th row: Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
9th row: Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
11th row: * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
13th row: Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6,
knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together.
15th row: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. The knitting can now
be easily continued from illustration.
[Illustration: 345.--Knitted Pattern.]
* * * * *
346 _to_ 348.--Knitted Shawl.
Materials: Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.
[Illustration: 346.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
[Illustration: 347.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Both
illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be
clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a
sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not
be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic.
Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346,
which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: Slip the first
stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of
the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward;
repeat from *.
2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit
1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together.
When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then
work the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked
in the following way:--1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw
the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next,
and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one.
2nd row, entirely purled.
When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of
the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6
stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripe
is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at
a distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6
rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then
begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the
narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide
inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground
(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide
and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in
the ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet
wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep.
[Illustration: 348.--Knitted Shawl.]
* * * * *
TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS & Co.'s
KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS.
|------------------|-----------------------------|
| | No. |
|------------------|-----------------------------|
|Borders | 20, 80 |
|Couvrettes | 8 |
|D'Oyleys | 80, 100 |
|Edgings | 16, 30 |
|Insertions | 30, 50 |
|Nightcaps | 20 |
|Quilts | 4, 8, 12 |
|Socks | 20 |
|Table Covers | 16 |
|------------------------------------------------|
MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.
ALPHABETS.
* * * * *
349.--_Alphabet_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch,
and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars ornament this very
effective alphabet.
[Illustration: 349.--Alphabet (Capitals).]
350.--_Alphabet (Small Letters)_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as
pocket-handkerchiepeat this 3 times, following the order of
the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be
seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for
the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in
darning stitch (point de reprise).
[Illustration: 517.--Star.]
[Illustration: 518.--Star.]
No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen
thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of the
straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and
lastly, the other part of the straight cross.
[Illustration: 519.--Detail of Star.]
[Illustration: 520.--Star.]
In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of
stitches. (See illustration 520).
OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems
of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two
coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles in
the centre of the middle squares.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 521.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
521.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No.
8 or 10; needle No. 7.
For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner
with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1
stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches,
alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the
end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing
net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long,
complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at
the beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration,
it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de feston
and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is
finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches.
* * * * *
522.--_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10.
This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging
for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for
trimming couvrettes, &c., in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holes
wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the
edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the
scallops.
[Illustration: 522.--Lace Border in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
523.--_Square for D'Oyley_
Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8
and 10; needle No. 6.
[Illustration: 523.--Pattern of Square for D'Oyley.]
This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or
pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly
like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in
full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and
point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one
hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times
across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked
in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is
worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the
netting.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 524.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for
couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings.
These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes;
the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch,
point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole
stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked.
[Illustration: 525.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag
lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de
toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the
zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs
description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de
feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn
rather tightly so as to form a good square.
[Illustration: 526.--Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
527.--_Small Square_.
Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern.
[Illustration: 527.--Small Square.]
Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each
square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It
is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The
outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are
worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth.
The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the
pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament.
* * * * *
528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or
16 for very fine work.
This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of
lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to
be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch
and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are
worked round with button-hole stitches.
[Illustration: 528.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._
[Illustration: 529.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6.
This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger
wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast.
* * * * *
530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle
No. 7.
[Illustration: 530.--Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art.]
This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure
d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in
linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are
worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the
points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see
No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one
quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4
branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked
stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched
centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle.
* * * * *
531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the
netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8.
[Illustration: 531.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point
d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of
small wheels or rosettes.
For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square
stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots,
so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the
cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the
cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is
reached, and begin another wheel.
[Illustration: 532.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the
pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a
little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration
clearly shows the difference.
No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star
(see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the
square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of
long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de
toile, worked one way only, complete this square.
* * * * *
533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16,
according to the size of the work.
These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares,
or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.
[Illustration: 533.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill
each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great
regularity.
[Illustration: 534.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.
No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and
resembles lace stitches.
[Illustration: 535.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point
d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.
[Illustration: 536.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16;
strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame.
This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast,
the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and
the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away
from the overcast edge.
[Illustration: 537.--Lace Border for Veils, &c.]
* * * * *
538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and
Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness
required.
[Illustration: 538.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs.
They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner,
beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the
guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de
feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538,
and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_.
[Illustration: 538_a_.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
[Illustration: 539.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to
16; strip of netting length, required.
This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point
de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.
* * * * *
540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_
Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.
[Illustration: 540.--Square in Point de Venise.]
[Illustration: 541.--Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged).]
This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with
other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is
worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make
of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross
threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is
worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and
cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads
have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the
framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close
button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch
over the long and cross threads of the ground.
From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger
than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the
latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in
button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3
rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes
and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row
the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be
seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the
last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when
completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the
first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from
No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of
the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with
an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541.
* * * * *
542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The
netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and
work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of
every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning
stitch, as can be seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 542 and 543--Corner Borders.]
* * * * *
544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
Mecklenburg thread No. 10.
[Illustration: 544.--Flower in Guipure d'Art.]
This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in
guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white
thread or black silk in point de reprise.
* * * * *
545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_.
Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs.
Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.
[Illustration: 545.--Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art.]
This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on
cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo
is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half
inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides
with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches
used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit.
* * * * *
546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or
20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required.
[Illustration: 546.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie,
cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre,
they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.;
they are worked in darning and linen stitch.
[Illustration: 547.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length;
Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12.
This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each
side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being
worked between the rows.
[Illustration: 549.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
* * * * *
550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_.
Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's
Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
[Illustration: 550.--Square for Antimacassar.]
No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point
d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de
toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares.
No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de
feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star
pattern No. 518.
[Illustration: 551.--Square for Antimacassar.]
* * * * *
552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16.
These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with
fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders
is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553
darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit,
and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and
point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to
be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away
along the outside.
[Illustration: 552.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
[Illustration: 553.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20;
netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.
[Illustration: 554.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets
for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The
centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised
stitches.
[Illustration: 555.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the
border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the
centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.
[Illustration: 556.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans
and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square
wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.
[Illustration: 557.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in
Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
thread Nos. 16 and 20.
These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for
ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558
and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel
knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the
manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds
wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned
patterns can be worked from illustration.
[Illustration: 558.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
[Illustration: 559.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
[Illustration: 560.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine
knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round
work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches
in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other
stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double
the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the
preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as
follows:--
[Illustration: 561.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work
1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then
1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2
stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all
the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with
fine glazed cotton.
For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on
6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st
round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches
in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last
(10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from
illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point
d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole
stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two
rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.
[Illustration: 562.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
[Illustration: 563.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight
netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked
round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is
darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch,
and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).
* * * * *
[Illustration: 564.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for
handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.
These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or
as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with
more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for.
They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and
finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every
button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the
needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the
loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off
with the next double stitch.
[Illustration: 565.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
* * * * *
566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_.
Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk
cord; guipure netting.
This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin,
and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and
ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide,
pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is
stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure
d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners
with bows of satin ribbon.
[Illustration: 566.--Jewel Case, with Pincushion.]
* * * * *
567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_.
Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point
de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.
[Illustration: 567.--Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566).]
* * * * *
568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and
cotton No. 80.
For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration
two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for
the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required
for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size
of the knitting-needle or mesh which k a large pattern begin in the centre,
and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the
stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very
essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.
Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours
that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is
finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly,
otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse
for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far
as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch,
cross back in the usual way.
The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch;
illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.
We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing
and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in
Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too
simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become
Berlin workers.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 577.--Common Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards
and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the
canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the
2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration
577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 578.--Long Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the
preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 579.--Long Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the
preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and
in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding
row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each
stitch is completed before beginning the next.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 580.--Slanting Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No.
578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is
straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are
marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 581.--Damask Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left
to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one
row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in
illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 582.--Rep Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The
first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in
width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left
over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed
at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first
half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be
inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed
on illustration.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 583.--Leviathan Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1
straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each
stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch
completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half
of the straight cross stitch.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 584.--Leviathan Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the
preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the
different rows, as may be seen from illustration.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 585.--Double Leviathan Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the
preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width.
Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross
stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585
shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 586.--Tent Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in
height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 587.--Slanting Gobelin Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided
canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width,
divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.
* * * * *
[Illustration: 588.--Straight Gobelin Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads
in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more
raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.
* * * * *
ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small
round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes
and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make
first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross
stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place
where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to
form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to
work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a
slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular
cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch
completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the
mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool
upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked
upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not
be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open
if preferred.
[Illustration: 589.--Raised or Velvet Stitch.]
* * * * *
[Illustration: 590.--Plaited Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone
stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width.
Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the
place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked
by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads
below the stitches of the preceding row.
* * * * *
ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to
work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas
over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting
direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down
about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch
to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes.
Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is
completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from
illustration.
[Illustration: 591.--Plush Stitch.]
* * * * *
ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming
baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked
in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with
a back stitch.
[Illustration: 592.--Berlin Work Border.]
The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed oo
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